J Motzkin on sun 29 jan 12
Butchers wax or paste wax are readily available as wood finish. I use
dorlands wax medium but lately prefer the unpolished surface.
Some people use floor wax liquid.
Some spray with acrylic.
...judy
jmotzkin
@motzkin.com
Snail Scott on sun 29 jan 12
On Jan 29, 2012, at 8:17 AM, J Motzkin wrote:
> ...I use dorlands wax medium...
I used this over engobes on a few sculptural pieces, and it looked
great. Then I sold one of the bigger pieces (4 feet wide, 3 feet high)
to a collector who drove it home to Arizona wrapped in a blanket in
the back of his minivan. (He packed it, not me.) He called me when
he arrived home, after discovering that the wax had softened and
trapped about a zillion little blanket fibers in the surface. I've not
used any wax surfaces subsequently. While most of my work does
not go to Arizona wrapped in a blanket, I'm now very leery of any
surface treatment that can't survive shipping reliably.
-Snail
Bonnie Staffel on mon 30 jan 12
I have used WeldBond thinned to a watery mix similar to skimmed milk. =3D
This
material when brushed on the surface is a sealer as well as a barely =3D
satin
matt finish. This keeps the oxides from reoxidizing as well as making =3D
the
vessel waterproof. I have used this product for a number of years after =3D
I
found my pit and smoke fired vessels faded over time. I used to use an
acrylic floor wax liquid but didn't like the false shine it gave to the =3D
pot.
I have also used clear shoe polish but it seemed to stain the unglazed =3D
pot.
WeldBond is also very inexpensive and a $10 bottle goes a long way. It =3D
can
also be used as a glue in the thick original mode.
Regards,
Bonnie
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
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