J Motzkin on sun 29 jan 12
Butchers wax or paste wax are readily available as wood finish. I use
dorlands wax medium but lately prefer the unpolished surface.
Some people use floor wax liquid.
Some spray with acrylic.
Snail Scott on sun 29 jan 12
On Jan 29, 2012, at 8:17 AM, J Motzkin wrote:
> ...I use dorlands wax medium...
I used this over engobes on a few sculptural pieces, and it looked
great. Then I sold one of the bigger pieces (4 feet wide, 3 feet high)
to a collector who drove it home to Arizona wrapped in a blanket in
the back of his minivan. (He packed it, not me.) He called me when
he arrived home, after discovering that the wax had softened and
trapped about a zillion little blanket fibers in the surface. I've not
used any wax surfaces subsequently. While most of my work does
not go to Arizona wrapped in a blanket, I'm now very leery of any
surface treatment that can't survive shipping reliably.
Bonnie Staffel on mon 30 jan 12
I have used WeldBond thinned to a watery mix similar to skimmed milk. =3D
material when brushed on the surface is a sealer as well as a barely =3D
matt finish. This keeps the oxides from reoxidizing as well as making =3D
vessel waterproof. I have used this product for a number of years after =3D
found my pit and smoke fired vessels faded over time. I used to use an
acrylic floor wax liquid but didn't like the false shine it gave to the =3D
I have also used clear shoe polish but it seemed to stain the unglazed =3D
WeldBond is also very inexpensive and a $10 bottle goes a long way. It =3D
also be used as a glue in the thick original mode.
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