Jeff Brown on mon 30 jan 12
I have been reading the clayart archives and recent discussion about laser
printer decals but I am having some issues. I am hoping someone can help
solve this issue for me.
Background info:
I am using the laser copier decal paper. It is older paper not sure if
this could be a reason. I am using an HP printer. I am applying decal to
glazed ceramic ware some at cone 04, 6, and 10. I have tried different
firing temps in order to fix/melt the decal into the glaze.
The issue that I am getting is the image peels up and almost crinkles
and shrivels up on the surface like paper when it burns. What is left of
the image is sometimes not much but if I were to touch it it would be
powdery. The image turns to the typical red iron oxide color but the image
just does not want to stay. Any thoughts? Firing to hot? Not the right
laser printer?
thank you for your help
Jeff
--
Jeff Brown
Associate Professor of Art
Nicholls State University
Thibodaux, LA
Fredrick Paget on tue 31 jan 12
Jeff,
I think you have a problem with the old paper. They put a very thin
plastic sheet on top of the water slip glue that is what allows you
to print and hold the image together in the water soak. That is the
image is sitting on top of a plastic sheet, which is causing your
problem. That old paper was not designed for fired decals . It was
for craft hobbyests that make little signs and logos on their train
layouts.
You can still use it if you put the image on face down so the image
comes out with the plastic on top. To do that you need to prep the
surface and wet it and rub some glue on to it from a used decal .
That is - save the sheet that the used decal was on and rub it while
wet face down on the glaze to transfer some of the glue to the glaze
and then slide on the decal so it goes on face down. This will of
coarse reverse the image but you can allow for that in printing by
reversing it first in printing . Then it should work.
Or get some new paper that has a plastic layer suitable for firing
that doesnt do the dirty deed.
Fred Paget
--
Twin Dragon Studio
Mill Valley, CA, USA
Terrie on wed 1 feb 12
I think Fred is right...the paper that you are using may be the issue and=
=3D
I=3D20
agree that flipping it and putting it toner side down may be the only way=
=3D
to=3D20
salvage it. You could also try spraying it with a few coats of clear laqu=
=3D
er to=3D20
make up for the failing film coating. If you are left with any image at =
=3D
all after=3D20
firing then you are probably using a correct printer... (make sure you ar=
=3D
e using=3D20
a genuine HP cartridge) .. Firing temp will vary depending on the clay a=
=3D
nd=3D20
original firing temp of the glaze. Cone 10 glazed ware usually takes abo=
=3D
ut a=3D20
cone 03-01 decal firing.=3D20
There is a foolproof face-up paper that has been manufactured specificall=
=3D
y for=3D20
firing laser decals. It is called Fired-On Images Transfer Paper.=3D20
www.fired-on.com It comes with really detailed firing instructions that=
=3D
are=3D20
type of glaze/ clay specific. (also included instructions for use on ANY=
=3D
fired=3D20
surface including store bought ware and glass) It is a bit more expensive=
=3D
than=3D20
cheapo generic decal paper... but when you think of the time and energy=3D2=
0=3D
spent on your clay creations... it is worth getting a great result every =
=3D
time.=3D20
Terrie
| |
|
