Bonnie Hotz on thu 23 feb 12
I couldn't figure out how to add to the thread I already started. First, =
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I'll try to=3D20
give you more info. (Bill, I answered your questions in a direct email.) =
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Kiln=3D20
wasn't moved far and was moved in one piece, except I took all the soft b=
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rick=3D20
off the roof to get it through 2 doors and back outside! I later replaced=
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all the=3D20
bricks I removed and added a little fiber where there were cracks.
I suspect it does have something to do with the gas line. The biggest cha=
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nge is=3D20
the propane connection: I used to use just one regulator at the tank, the=
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=3D20
propane company wouldn't allow that when they came to re-hook. Now, it is=
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a=3D20
hi press. at tank and low pressure reg at kiln. The distance from tank is=
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about=3D20
the same, and the size of tank is about the same. I also have a new water=
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=3D20
columns inch gauge (with nice big numbers)! So, if I leave the door open =
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when=3D20
it's empty (24cf) and watch the flames come up through the 6 venturi burn=
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ers=3D20
in the floor (3 on the right, 3 on the left) and start at 0 and run it up=
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to 8wci -=3D20
what I see is that the biggest climb in the height of the flame is betwee=
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n 0-3,=3D20
but I can hear the gas pressure increase even though the flame doesn't gr=
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ow a=3D20
lot in height (it does grow).=3D20
The kiln was hand built by a ceramics professor out of Ben Lomond, CA - h=
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is=3D20
name is Bud Mckee. I don't know how to contact him or I would! Bud, if yo=
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ur=3D20
out there...help! It looks as if it's design is based on a 24 cf Geil dow=
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ndraft.
I fired the kiln again -I did in fact remove the bag wall (I figured with=
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a 3 cone=3D20
difference I didn't have much to lose and I googled the geil kiln which h=
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as a=3D20
similar setup and saw that they didn't use a bagwall) and cleaned the ori=
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fices=3D20
(again) - the first time was cone 10 oxidation, this time was cone 10 ca=
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rbon=3D20
trap reduction firing. The bottom of the kiln was beautiful...the top of =
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the kiln=3D20
was colder than before - cone 7 hadn't even started to bend. The kiln was=
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=3D20
even when my cones went down to tell me when to start my reduction. So,=3D=
20=3D
when I close the damper down to reduce I'm losing temperature at the top.=
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=3D20
The pots closest to the flue had the most carbon trapping. The pots close=
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st to=3D20
where the bagwalls used to be, got ultra hot - ooops. I fired for 9 hour=
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s. So, I=3D20
can play with the airflow at the burners, the chimney is in fact about 6"=
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taller=3D20
than it used to be and I'll cut it back down to the size it used to be. I=
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can play=3D20
with the size of the bagwall, whether to use it or not, etc. Regarding t=
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he gas=3D20
pressure - I assume the water columns per inch is a constant measurement=3D=
20=3D
regardless of the type of pressure? I will continue to fiddle as I know m=
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any of=3D20
you have had to do to. If something stands out: as a 'have you tried this=
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'? I'd=3D20
love to hear your comments/suggestions. Thank you. PS - do you put your=3D2=
0=3D
pyrometers in the peep hole when your reducing?
Neil Estrick on tue 28 feb 12
A lot of kilns designed with venturis in the floor don't use bag walls, b=
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ut it looks=3D20
like you need them. That's not a bad thing. I'm sticking with raising the=
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bag wall=3D20
higher than before.
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