Robin Wolf on tue 7 aug 12
Has anyone tried oxide stains for bisque ware in Murphy's Wood Soap? I
bought 6 ounces of real glycerin and it was $7 at the local pharmacy. A
quart of Murphy's Wood Soap is $4. Not that I'm cheap or anything, but tha=
t
is a HUGE difference in cost.
Will test both of these out, but if you have any advice or formulas, please
let me know. Using Bmix, cone 04 bisque, cone 6 oxidation. Plan on testing
with 2/3 coloring oxide to 1/3 Gerstley Borate as per Val Cushing so the
stains will have a bit of a gloss to them, and adding glycerin to one batch=
,
and Murphy's to the others.
Robin Wolf
Robin Wolf Pottery
Kingfisher, OK
www.robinwolfpottery.com
In dried out, drought stricken Oklahoma, lightening struck one of the cattl=
e
pastures about 2 hours ago, fire was headed North at a rapid pace, luckily
the cows and calves managed to stay to the south side of the flames. Fire
departments from 20 miles around headed out to help. Rain showers finally
started about 20 minutes ago, there seems to be enough to cut this disaster
short!
James Freeman on wed 8 aug 12
On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 8:51 PM, Robin Wolf wrote:
Has anyone tried oxide stains for bisque ware in Murphy's Wood Soap? I
bought 6 ounces of real glycerin and it was $7 at the local pharmacy. A
quart of Murphy's Wood Soap is $4
Robin...
I assume that you are considering heavier bodied media in order to mitigate
settling problems with your oxide mixes. I ran a series of experiments
with such about a year ago (the information should be in the archives). I
needed to spray some oxide through an airbrush, but the rapid settling was
causing clogging issues.
I tried a number of media, pretty much every heavy bodied liquid I had at
hand. Glycerine worked, but as you mention, it is very expensive.
Ethylene Glycol (anti-freeze) worked OK, but was not quite heavy enough.
Corn syrup was a gooey mess. I did not try soap, as I did not want to deal
with foaming issues. The medium I finally settled on was mineral oil (baby
oil, but without that "new baby" stench). It held the particles in
suspension extremely well, and brushed and sprayed perfectly. In fact,
there is a little cup of mineral oil oxide on my shelf that I mixed up
probably 6 months ago, and it is still in suspension. Though I applied the
oxide atop the glaze for my actual work, I did run some tests with glaze
applied over the oil-based oxide, and experienced no problems (which would
tend to throw doubt on the oft repeated idea that oil on bisque, especially
from fingerprints, causes glaze adhesion issues).
If you spray mineral oil, do so with very ample ventilation and with a good
mask (good advice no matter what you are spraying). Inspirated aerosolized
mineral oil is very bad for your lungs. An airbrush probably can't create
enough mist to cause a major problem (unless you go out of your way to do
so), but a larger glaze sprayer should probably be avoided, or at least
used with extreme caution.
The only negative I can see with a mineral oil base is that one cannot use
the oxide mix as a wash in the traditional paint-it-on-then-wipe-it-off
method, as I have not been able to find any solvent that works with the oil=
.
Good luck with your project.
...James
James Freeman
"Talk sense to a fool, and he calls you foolish."
-Euripides
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
Marci on wed 8 aug 12
> James Freeman wrote:
>The only negative I can see with a mineral oil base is that one cannot use
>the oxide mix as a wash in the traditional paint-it-on-then-wipe-it-off
>method, as I have not been able to find any solvent that works with the oi=
l.
James,
Many of us chinapainters use mineral oil to mix our paints and yes,
most colors will stay mixed for ages. ( a few exceptions are some of
the blues and the gold based colors that make up the
pink-magenta-purple spectrum ... Those tend to get gummy or hard)
And we work in very thin watercolor-like washes .
We generally use mediums to thin the mineral oil mixed paints to
that watercolor consistency . There are recipes for some common
painting mediums on our main website on the library page
www.PPIO.com .. Direct link here : http://www.ppio.com/mediums.htm
Most of them are variations of balsam of copaiba ( which adds
viscosity ) and lavender oil ( which promotes drying ) and clove oil
( which retards drying ) ... All of the mediums listed are open ,
meaning that they wont dry .
You can also use turpentine to thin the mineral oil mixed oxides .
That will make them dry very quickly and hard. Clove oil will help
soften the brushes after turp use...
Clove oil can also be used either on its own to mix the oxides or
as a medium for mineral oil mixed paint. This will allow you to thin
the mixture to the viscosity of ink so you can actually use it with
a calligraphy pen and it will not spread.
You can also thin the paint with alcohol enough for use with an
airbrush http://www.ppio.com/airbrush.htm
Another solvent that will work is an orange based solvent.
marci the chinapainter
Lee on fri 10 aug 12
On Wed, Aug 8, 2012 at 11:25 PM, Marci wrote:
>
>> Many of us chinapainters use mineral oil to mix our paints and yes,
This won't work on underglaze bisque (the original question was about
oxides on bisque), unless you are trying to resist the stains.
Glycerin is used on underglaze stains precisely because it does not
resist.
It is also why glycerin based hand treatments like Corn Huskers is
good when you are glazing. It will not resist on bisque like many hand
lotions will.
Because Cornhuskers is no longer available around here, I make my own
with rosewater and glycerin.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D97tha=
t is, "T=3D
he land
of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent within
itself." -- John O'Donohue
ivor and olive lewis on sat 11 aug 12
For the benefit of those who live outside the boundaries of the USA, what
are the constituents of Murphy's Soap ? Is it used as a printing medium a
wetting agent or as a binder ?
Regards,
Ivor Lewis,
REDHILL,
South Australia
Marci on sat 11 aug 12
> Lee said:
>On Wed, Aug 8, 2012 at 11:25 PM, Marci wrote:
> >> Many of us chinapainters use mineral oil to mix our paints and yes,
>
>This won't work on underglaze bisque (the original question was about
>oxides on bisque), unless you are trying to resist the stains.
> Glycerin is used on underglaze stains precisely because it does no=
t
>resist.
I believe that James' original email said that he had tried it
and it worked but the only issue was that he was unable to find a
solvent that would thin it to a watercolor consistency . ... so I
responded with several methods of thinning china paint mixed with
mineral oil since that is a fairly common medium that we use . I did
initially think that he would have to burn the oil off first before
trying to glaze it but , as I recall, the email said that the
technique worked for him .. I could be remembering it wrong ..
Marci the chinapainter
Snail Scott on sat 11 aug 12
On Aug 11, 2012, at 12:14 AM, ivor lewis wrote:
> For the benefit of those who live outside the boundaries of the USA, =3D
what
> are the constituents of Murphy's Soap ? Is it used as a printing =3D
medium a
> wetting agent or as a binder ?
Murphy's Oil Soap (a brand name) is an old-fashioned household product =3D
that is popular for cleaning wood. It is widely used by mold-makers as =3D
an inexpensive alternative to the high-priced specialty mold soaps, and =3D
is used mainly as a mold release and parting agent in that context. It =3D
has a viscous/gloppy liquid consistency.
-Snail
Snail Scott on sat 11 aug 12
On Aug 11, 2012, at 12:14 AM, ivor and olive lewis wrote:
> For the benefit of those who live outside the boundaries of the USA, what
> are the constituents of Murphy's Soap ?
Forgot to mention: Murphy's Oil Soap is a true soap, not a
detergent like most liquid so-called 'soaps' - an important
distinction for plaster work, though irrelevant for most other
uses.
-Snail
ivor and olive lewis on sun 12 aug 12
Dear Mike,
Thanks for that prompt.
Wikipedia gives a little more information relating to the constituents and
tells us that it is derived from Potassium soaps made from vegetable oil,
which might mean palmate and propylene glycol. An unattributed source claim=
s
it is ideal as a lubricant when throwing clay on the potter's wheel.
Regards,
Ivor
Steve Mills on sun 12 aug 12
Sounds like what Decorators/ call Soft Soap and we call Mouldmaker's Size o=
n=3D
this side of the pond.=3D20
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my iPod
On 11 Aug 2012, at 20:29, Snail Scott wrote:
> On Aug 11, 2012, at 12:14 AM, ivor and olive lewis wrote:
>> For the benefit of those who live outside the boundaries of the USA, wha=
t=3D
>> are the constituents of Murphy's Soap ?
>=3D20
> Forgot to mention: Murphy's Oil Soap is a true soap, not a
> detergent like most liquid so-called 'soaps' - an important
> distinction for plaster work, though irrelevant for most other
> uses.
>=3D20
> -Snail
Kathy Forer on sun 12 aug 12
Green Soap aka medically-safe Tincture of Green Soap is also a soft soap th=
a=3D
t works well with molds. No added surfactants or fragrance. Lathering and r=
i=3D
nsing off makes for impervious molds with sharp detail.=3D20
Though strong, Murphy's Oil Soap has a great smell. The student cleaners in=
m=3D
y old art school used it to clean the floors and walls--a well-considered e=
x=3D
travagance.=3D20
Kathy
On Aug 12, 2012, at 8:20 AM, Steve Mills wr=
o=3D
te:
> Sounds like what Decorators/ call Soft Soap and we call Mouldmaker's Size=
o=3D
n this side of the pond.
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