Michael Mahan on thu 16 aug 12
So, I've got some little bits of corrosion it seems causing havoc with =3D
my clay since I used my machine with some cone 6 P5 porcelain from =3D
Highwater Clays. I can get by not using the machine for porcelain, but =3D
what do I need to do to get rid of the bits of corrosion? I thought =3D
about filling the machine with some dry scrap and turning it on to =3D
scrape it clean. Any ideas? I've sent this note to Peter Pugger, so I'll =
=3D
see what they're saying. I know this problem has come up before.
Michael Mahan
=3D46rom the Ground Up
172 Crestwood Road
Robbins, NC 27325
910-464-6228
www.fromthegrounduppots.blogspot.com
Patty Kaliher on thu 16 aug 12
There might be an easier way but the way we cleaned out ALL the corrosion
was to take the drum apart and clean it. Undo the nuts and bolts etc. We
replaced ours with a stainless model because I work only in Porcelain and
Peter Pugger helped us sell our original model. They were very helpful.
Patty Kaliher
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Michael Mahan
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2012 6:15 AM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Peter Pugger corrosion solution
So, I've got some little bits of corrosion it seems causing havoc with my
clay since I used my machine with some cone 6 P5 porcelain from Highwater
Clays. I can get by not using the machine for porcelain, but what do I need
to do to get rid of the bits of corrosion? I thought about filling the
machine with some dry scrap and turning it on to scrape it clean. Any ideas=
?
I've sent this note to Peter Pugger, so I'll see what they're saying. I kno=
w
this problem has come up before.
Michael Mahan
From the Ground Up
172 Crestwood Road
Robbins, NC 27325
910-464-6228
www.fromthegrounduppots.blogspot.com
-----
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Carl Ross on fri 17 aug 12
I purchased mine used, and had the nozzle portions sandblasted at a body=3D=
20=3D
shop... only took a few minutes and $20.... but was easier than trying to=
=3D
force=3D20
my hands into the narrow barrel... I also was replacing all the o-rings,=
=3D
it had=3D20
not been used for quite a while when I first bought it, and all of the se=
=3D
als were=3D20
cracked up.=3D20
I removed the auger and sprayed that down with a pressure washer... and I=
=3D
=3D20
scrubbed the hopper and lid lightly with fine steel wool and a little bor=
=3D
ax. I=3D20
sanded the spots of heavy corrosion, with some emery paper... I did the=3D2=
0=3D
vacuum chamber too, but wasn't as thorough, just anything major... not al=
=3D
l=3D20
that important in there.=3D20
then I carefully pressure washed the inside just to rinse off any of the =
=3D
residue=3D20
and rinsed off everything else...
I put in new o rings and bolted it all back together...
I've had to wash it out again since then, but it all cleaned up a lot eas=
=3D
ier
way back when I first came to AZ I had to reclaim clay that was all sorts=
=3D
of=3D20
dried out.... should have left it back in Wisconsin, I had earthenware an=
=3D
d=3D20
stoneware, and they intermingled giving me some major bloating and bliste=
=3D
ring=3D20
in there... David Woof let me use his widowmaker to reclaim it all... I =
=3D
added=3D20
some nice splinters of mesquite in there too... used a chunk of that to h=
=3D
elp=3D20
things along in there and got stuck in the auger with no E-stop... it's b=
=3D
etter=3D20
than ground human I guess...=3D20
so I completely dumped out all of my reclaims and scraps, thoroughly wash=
=3D
ed=3D20
all of my tools and wheels.... and started anew with fresh b-mix... I'm =
=3D
trying=3D20
Dry now, adding new into the reclaim and keeping things the right consist=
=3D
ency=3D20
I recognize I've swayed a bit from the original thread, so I'll sign off =
=3D
for now...
-Carl in the Verde Valley
Home of Sedona, where the redrocks remind me of mars and the woowoo's do=
=3D
=3D20
little to convince me otherwise...
PS... patiently awaiting the changes of clayart... perhaps a bit more mod=
=3D
ern??
Jeff Lawrence on sat 18 aug 12
Hi,
I got a Peter Pugger for my birthday and learned from the manufacturer that
corrosion is inevitable in the aluminum barreled Peter Puggers if you leave
porcelain in the machine. They recommend following any porcelain pugging
session with a non-porcelain before letting it sit.
Carl Ross described a thorough-sounding routine for cleaning one that's
already corroded, but I'd advise against steel wool on aluminum. From
restoring motorcycles, I learned that steel wool embeds in aluminum
castings and rusts out over time (usually on a very visible part of the
engine). For longer-lasting enjoyment, it also has a half-life like
radiation - you never get it all out! Green scrub-pads might be a better
bet, since any residual pumice they leave behind will just give your clay
body a little more tooth.
Best,
Jeff
Steve Mills on sun 19 aug 12
=3D46rom the often reoccurring theme of Porcelain and corroding Aluminium P=
ugm=3D
ill Barrels, I have felt for a long time that the Aluminium castings you ge=
t=3D
in the USA and we get in the UK are very different in composition. That so=
r=3D
t of problem is very rare over here in my experience as an equipment suppli=
e=3D
r, however material composition's not why I'm writing.=3D20
A good friend of mine built his own Mill out of steel, and dealt with the p=
o=3D
tental corrosion problem inherent with that by coating the inside with two-=
p=3D
art epoxy. For this he warmed the barrel, hopper, etc,, warmed the epoxy mi=
x=3D
to make it fluid and painted it on.=3D20
I don't think he's had to re-coat it, and this was done several years back.=
=3D20=3D
Seems that might be a good fix Perhaps??
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my iPod
On 18 Aug 2012, at 16:57, Jeff Lawrence wrote:
> Hi,
>=3D20
> I got a Peter Pugger for my birthday and learned from the manufacturer th=
a=3D
t
> corrosion is inevitable in the aluminum barreled Peter Puggers if you lea=
v=3D
e
> porcelain in the machine. They recommend following any porcelain pugging
> session with a non-porcelain before letting it sit.
>=3D20
> Carl Ross described a thorough-sounding routine for cleaning one that's
> already corroded, but I'd advise against steel wool on aluminum. From
> restoring motorcycles, I learned that steel wool embeds in aluminum
> castings and rusts out over time (usually on a very visible part of the
> engine). For longer-lasting enjoyment, it also has a half-life like
> radiation - you never get it all out! Green scrub-pads might be a better
> bet, since any residual pumice they leave behind will just give your clay
> body a little more tooth.
>=3D20
> Best,
> Jeff
Dinah Snipes Steveni on sun 19 aug 12
Hi All
Not a solution as such, but a "hold steady, nobody's died" comment. In UK I=
=3D
had a couple of truly ancient pug mills, one for red earthenware bodies, t=
=3D
he other for white which included St. Thomas's Body and David Leach Porcela=
=3D
in ^8/9. May also be the factor involved here which Steve Mills has mention=
=3D
ed that the basic aluminum casting could be different. Well, my pugs resemb=
=3D
led something off Nelson's flagship armament ports. Single barreled no de-a=
=3D
iring. Naked Archimedes screws. =3DC2=3DA0Yes, they used to shed bits from =
thei=3D
r barrels occasionally, but as potter's are ever vigilant, the old potter's=
=3D
pin would pluck out the offending speck. Or, darn it, it got embedded in a=
=3D
fired piece. So? The extruder used to shed bits occasionally too.=3D20
Right, present situ USA, north of Seattle, I bought a reconditioned Peter P=
=3D
ugger from the factory over the New Year not the SS barrel. I can't imagine=
=3D
ever being without it. I throw with porcelaineous bodies and IMHO frankly =
=3D
at ^6 there are no true porcelains. Others, more authoritative voices, will=
=3D
bear me out on this. I also use a couple of other bodies besides CKK6, Lag=
=3D
una B Mix: (Goldstone, Vashon Red, Vashon White) for differing effects whic=
=3D
h my customers seem to like. Read as purchase. I combine all scraps togethe=
=3D
r for mixing and pugging. So far so good. I am careful with the mix as now =
=3D
it's got manganese bits, and RIO, in other words very claggy, and needs a c=
=3D
areful bisque, and a subsequent gloss firing so as not to bloat -- which is=
=3D
lower than the putative ^6 bodies.
Yesterday at Mount Vernon Farmer's Market a lovely Old Dear walking slowly =
=3D
on a stick stepped into my area and had a good close look around. So, she s=
=3D
aid eventually, you're firing ^10. No, I replied, ^6 electric. Never! And f=
=3D
rom there we had a good chat. Very flattered by her amazement at the ^6 gla=
=3D
zes. Thank you ^6 glaze gurus. I've learned so much from reading and testin=
=3D
g, and applying. =3DC2=3DA0Jackie, 90, is in a residential home now, hand-b=
uild=3D
ing, and goes along to a studio with a chum once or twice a week. She looke=
=3D
d me in the eye and said before she left: I would go absolutely mad if I di=
=3D
dn't have clay. Some of them shut their doors after lunch and do nothing un=
=3D
til dinner. Not me. I've got clay.=3D20
Carpe Diem.
Dinah
Mount Vernon, WA.=3D20
www.dinahsnipessteveni.com
www.dinahsnipessteveni.wordpress.com
www.etsy.com/shop/DinahSnipesSteveni
dinahsnipessteveni.tumblr.com
Des & Jan Howard on mon 20 aug 12
Steve
I coated an aluminium pugmill barrel with the two part
epoxy brew, carefully applied. OK for a while, then
grit scoring & wear allowed moisture, plus whatever,
under the layer. Chunks of epoxy peeled off
periodically until I laboriously ground it all off.
Des
On 19/08/2012 10:17 PM, Steve Mills wrote:
> A good friend of mine built his own Mill out of
steel, and dealt with the
> potental corrosion problem inherent with that by coating the inside with =
two-part epoxy.
> For this he warmed the barrel, hopper, etc,, warmed the epoxy mix to make=
it fluid and painted it on.
> I don't think he's had to re-coat it, and this was done several years bac=
k.
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
Lue NSW
Australia
2850
02 6373 6419
www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
-32.656072 149.840624
Steve Mills on mon 20 aug 12
Bad luck Des, I suspect Paul would have "keyed" the surface first. I certai=
n=3D
ly would with an Alloy job.=3D20
Used to run a side-valve engined car with an Alloy Head, used to have to po=
l=3D
ish the gasket face before re-assembly else it welded itself to the Block.=
=3D20=3D
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my iPod
On 19 Aug 2012, at 23:57, Des & Jan Howard wrote:
> Steve
> I coated an aluminium pugmill barrel with the two part
> epoxy brew, carefully applied. OK for a while, then
> grit scoring & wear allowed moisture, plus whatever,
> under the layer. Chunks of epoxy peeled off
> periodically until I laboriously ground it all off.
> Des
>=3D20
> On 19/08/2012 10:17 PM, Steve Mills wrote:
>> A good friend of mine built his own Mill out of
> steel, and dealt with the
>> potental corrosion problem inherent with that by coating the inside with=
t=3D
wo-part epoxy.
>> For this he warmed the barrel, hopper, etc,, warmed the epoxy mix to mak=
e=3D
it fluid and painted it on.
>> I don't think he's had to re-coat it, and this was done several years ba=
c=3D
k.
>=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
> --
> Des & Jan Howard
> Lue Pottery
> Lue NSW
> Australia
> 2850
>=3D20
> 02 6373 6419
> www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
> -32.656072 149.840624
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