David Hendley on sat 14 feb 98
You can make your own collar.
I'm assuming you have a common 8 or 10 or 12 or
whatever - sided kiln that has at least 2 sections that
can be unplugged and taken apart.
My suggestion would be to use 3" thick bricks, so your
wall thickness will be 3 inches.
Cut the correct angle on each end of each brick.
Use the bricks already in your kiln as a guide, and get
the angle by trial and error,
or figure out the angle mathematically.
NOW you know why you had to take geometery in high school.
The best tool to cut the bricks is a table saw.
Install a worn-out blade. If you don't have a worn- out blade
you will shortly. Install the blade ==backwards==.
Set your blade angle and rip fence,
don air filter mask and goggles and cut the first cut
on all bricks. Reset the fence, if necessary, and cut the
second cut on each brick.
Use a hand saw if thats all you have. (It will ruin the blade).
The easiest and best way to hold it all together:
Use a 'dab' of air-set refractory mortar between each brick,
then circle it with steel strap - the metal banding that
is used to hold things together for shipping.
Use three bands, top, center, and bottom.
If you don't know someone who will lend you their
tools to tension and crimp the strapping, see if you can
bring your work to them, and use it at their place.
Your materials supplier will have the tools, as well as
your friendly neighborhood lumber yard.
This will give you 4 1/2" more height.
If there's a choice of two places to place a collar,
you could make 2, and gain 9" of height.
Remember that this will slow down the kiln, since
you're adding volume to be heated without adding
more power.
If the kiln takes a long time and barely makes temperature
now, adding a ring will not work.
One inch of clearance between the sculpture and the lid is plenty.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
See David Hendley's Pottery Page at
http://www.sosis.com/hendley/david/
At 09:19 AM 2/13/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi Everyone:
>It's me again. I need your help. My hard slab sculptures have grown 28 1/2"
>tall however the kiln I have access to is a standard 26". I was told that I
>could purchase a collar to extend the height of the kiln. Which section
>should the collar be placed between? Is there another alternative? If the
>collar extends another 6" or so than I can attempt the build the slab up to
>31" which would leave 1" clearence. Would that be enough clearence? I have a
>sense that the sculpture will continue to grow until such time the slabs
>give up, but one thing is for sure, I will not. Thanks in advance. Mel the
>rattle is on it's way.
>
>Have a great pottery day.
>L. Louise Lashambe
>Thought for the day: "Life is not a problem to be solved, but a mystery to
>be lived" Thomas Merton
>
>
Richard Gralnik on wed 25 feb 98
At 11:39 AM 2/14/98 EST, you wrote:
>The easiest and best way to hold it all together:
>Use a 'dab' of air-set refractory mortar between each brick,
>then circle it with steel strap - the metal banding that
>is used to hold things together for shipping.
>Use three bands, top, center, and bottom.
>If you don't know someone who will lend you their
>tools to tension and crimp the strapping, see if you can
>bring your work to them, and use it at their place.
>Your materials supplier will have the tools, as well as
>your friendly neighborhood lumber yard.
>
David,
What about using 2 or 3 really long hose clamps to hold it together?
You can buy the slotted band and the turn-screw separately if you
need to.
Richard
David Hendley on thu 26 feb 98
Yes! Richard,
Really long hose clamps would work great.
The lid of my old Paragon kiln uses a piece of steel
with the two parts of a hose clamp welded on each end and then
screwed together.
The adavntage of steel strap is that it is free, or close to it.
Long hose clamps are also great for making your own
glaze sieves.
Use the hose clamp to hold the screen on a bucket without
a bottom or a 'bowl without a bottom' shape you made from clay.
If you throw your own, make it have a nice lip and galley for the
hose clamp to fit into.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
See David Hendley's Pottery Page at
http://www.sosis.com/hendley/david/
At 08:50 AM 2/25/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>At 11:39 AM 2/14/98 EST, you wrote:
>>The easiest and best way to hold it all together:
>>Use a 'dab' of air-set refractory mortar between each brick,
>>then circle it with steel strap - the metal banding that
>>is used to hold things together for shipping.
>>Use three bands, top, center, and bottom.
>>If you don't know someone who will lend you their
>>tools to tension and crimp the strapping, see if you can
>>bring your work to them, and use it at their place.
>>Your materials supplier will have the tools, as well as
>>your friendly neighborhood lumber yard.
>>
>
>David,
>
>What about using 2 or 3 really long hose clamps to hold it together?
>You can buy the slotted band and the turn-screw separately if you
>need to.
>
>Richard
>
>
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