Israel Amirav on tue 3 mar 98
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>What is CMC? TIA
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
CMC is carboxy methyl cellulose.
It contains large proportions of hydroxyl groups which enhance water solubility.
It is commonly used for thickening and stabilization in beverages and other
liquid preparations.
it is mainly used as a substitute for other hydrocollids (such as
guar,xansnthan,pectin,
etc...) because of it's low price and uniform quality.
CMC is produced from natural sources i.e ;from wood pulp.It is non toxic
and user friendly.
Hope this helps........
Naama in Israel
paul wilmoth on wed 8 apr 98
Hello,
This is a small but irritating problem. I switched from using gum arabic
to CMC in my majolica glaze. It keeps the glaze in great suspension and
hardens it very well. BUT the glaze won't stay put. I believe this is
called streaming. I know that gum can defloculate but epsom salts won't
reverse this one. Any help?? I used 2% dry weight of gum in this glaze.
I have added more dry glaze material so it is probably down to 11/2%.
Thanks - Paul
Lawn is mowed ,the garden is tilled and seedlings are popping up all over
our house!
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Hjh4blh on fri 10 apr 98
Paul Contact the CMC manufacturer they make several viscosity grades and may
have a suggestion for you. Jim Horvitz Rancho Mirage CA
Tony Hansen on fri 10 apr 98
> switched from using gum arabic
> to CMC in my majolica glaze. It keeps the glaze in great suspension and
> hardens it very well. BUT the glaze won't stay put. I believe this is
> called streaming. I know that gum can defloculate but epsom salts won't
> reverse this one. Any help?? I used 2% dry weight of gum in this glaze.
> I have added more dry glaze material so it is probably down to 11/2%.
I thought gum was strictly for making the glaze dry harder. Commercial
bottled painting glazes are loaded with gum and they settle out.
Anyway, gum makes the glaze dry slower and flow more so it is difficult
to get an even layer. Wouldn't it be better to use a low alumina frit
in your glaze so there is room for lots of kaolin? Try a plastic kaolin
like tile 6 and you won't need any gum. If the glaze doesn't gel add
a few drops of vinegar or some epsom salts to gel and it will go on
like silk.
--
T o n y H a n s e n thansen@digitalfire.com
Don't fight the glaze dragon alone
INSIGHT, Magic of Fire at http://digitalfire.com
RonniB1@AOL.COM on thu 17 aug 00
I've just bought Chappell's book on clay and glazes, I've looked all over it
to find out what CMC is, and can't find it. What happens if I mix a glaze
and leave it out. I'm in Belize and I can't get any supplies here. Just
wondering. If it is necessary I'll get it the next time I'm in Houston.
Thanks and regards,
Ronnie
Dale A. Neese on thu 17 aug 00
Carboxymethylcellulose, CMC is easier to say. A vegetable gum used to
thicken a glaze. Also use to give glazes a better fit on the bisque ware. I
suppose the glaze that calls for it may be subject to application problems
either in dipping or spraying. The glaze could also become easily brushed
off or damaged by handling when dry. Will not affect the look of the fired
ware without it.
Sold in powdered form, mix with warm water before adding to glaze batch.
Dale Tex
Marvpots@AOL.COM on thu 17 aug 00
Hi:
CMC is Carboxy Methyl Cellulose, is basically used as a thickener or binder
in a variety of industrial uses, and is manufactured in a number of countries
such as USA, Mexico, France, Germany and probably Japan. If you cannot find
it at a ceramic supply house, try a drug store, or a supplier of raw
materials for the paper industry. I do not remember if there is a paper mill
in Belize, but if there is, you might be able to get a small quantity from
them to try. In your local Yellow Pages under Chemical Wholesalers, or
Papaer Mills Supplies you might find it as well.
In any event, good hunting!
Marvin Flowerman
marvpots@aol.com
Sharon31 on thu 17 aug 00
I believe, wall paper glue, that comes in paper box, in little flakes, is
kind of .cm.c.
Ababi
sharon@shoval.org.il
http://www.israelceramics.org/main.asp?what=gallery
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2000 08:46
Subject: CMC
> I've just bought Chappell's book on clay and glazes, I've looked all over
it
> to find out what CMC is, and can't find it. What happens if I mix a glaze
> and leave it out. I'm in Belize and I can't get any supplies here. Just
> wondering. If it is necessary I'll get it the next time I'm in Houston.
> Thanks and regards,
> Ronnie
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Bill Raymond on thu 17 aug 00
Ronnie, CMC is an organic cellulose gum which functions as a thickener, a
binder and suspending agent in glazes. Can boughten from most pottery suppy
companies. I've used in glaze formulas that called for and when I ran out I
mixed the same without. I didn't see any difference. You'll need to test
your glaze with and without and see what happens, decide if you need it or
not. JOSIE
-----Original Message-----
From: RonniB1@AOL.COM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Thursday, August 17, 2000 2:21 PM
Subject: CMC
>I've just bought Chappell's book on clay and glazes, I've looked all over
it
>to find out what CMC is, and can't find it. What happens if I mix a glaze
>and leave it out. I'm in Belize and I can't get any supplies here. Just
>wondering. If it is necessary I'll get it the next time I'm in Houston.
>Thanks and regards,
>Ronnie
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
RonniB1@AOL.COM on thu 17 aug 00
Thank you, Josie. I will try small batches of a few and see how it goes.
I've just started experimenting with mixing my own glazes, and I wanted to be
sure it wasn't something that was necessary for color or effect.
Hopefully, we will only be here in Belize for a few more months, and I won't
have to haul everything back from Houston. The list of what is available
down here is much shorter than what is. :-)
Best regards,
Ronnie
> Ronnie, CMC is an organic cellulose gum which functions as a thickener, a
> binder and suspending agent in glazes. Can boughten from most pottery suppy
> companies. I've used in glaze formulas that called for and when I ran out I
> mixed the same without. I didn't see any difference. You'll need to test
> your glaze with and without and see what happens, decide if you need it or
> not. JOSIE
Ana Garic on thu 17 aug 00
Hello!
I just wanted to mention that during my studies we used to mix honey =
instead of CMC, because it serves as a binder, too.
I remember that glazes containing CMC or honey could have been =
touched freely when already sprayed on the object before the fireing , =
while on others the fingerprints were visible.
=20
Ana Garic,Belgrade
Cobus Potgieter on sun 11 mar 01
I am not used to use CMC. Yesterday I mixed 15 grams of CMC with 500ml =
hot water (according to a recipe). The CMC dissolved. I let it stand =
overnight as the recipe said. This morning the mixture was a jelly-like =
paste. Is this how CMC is supposed to look? Is the amount of CMC too =
high? The recipe does say that a part of the CMC "solution" must be =
mixed with the glaze ingredients and water. But I don't have a =
"solution", I have jelly! Can some-one give me some directions please?
Cobus Potgieter
NAMIBIA CERAMICS Tel: +264-61-264526
PO Box 6742 Fax: +264-61-261590
Ausspannplatz
Windhoek
NAMIBIA
http://www.orusovo.com/namceram
namceram@orusovo.com
Lili Krakowski on mon 12 mar 01
As far as I know the reason to predissolve this stuff--as well as
bentonite-- before adding it to the glaze mix-- or "Slop" as Brits
charmingly and accurately call it--is taht then it disperses more easily
in the mix. I have reached the "a handful of this, a handful of that"
level of relaxation in the studio, so I mix up a gallon jug of this
jelly, then take out what I think I will want and dilute it into a
sauce/cream soup consistency and mix it into the warm water I use
to mix the glaze up in.
Lili Krakowski
africaunusual@MWEB.CO.ZA on mon 12 mar 01
No it must not be a jelly could be the directions you followed were
for "sugar art" (cake icing).
I suggest you warm what you have up again and add more hot
water or add more hot water and beat it till well mixed and liquid.
Can't give you measurements for adding to your glaze as I tend to
slosh it in by the seat of pants method like I cook!. I have not had
any problems adding it by my methodless method
One thing that is IMPORTANT though. After adding CMC you must
sieve your glase again or it can cause really nasty crawling.
Toni in Durban where it has cooled down! Shhhhhhhh don't tell
anyone in case the weather gods hear!
On 11 Mar 2001, at 19:43, Cobus Potgieter wrote:
> I am not used to use CMC. Yesterday I mixed 15 grams of CMC with
> 500ml hot water (according to a recipe). The CMC dissolved. I let it
> stand overnight as the recipe said. This morning the mixture was a
> jelly-like paste. Is this how CMC is supposed to look? Is the amount
> of CMC too high? The recipe does say that a part of the CMC
> "solution" must be mixed with the glaze ingredients and water. But I
> don't have a "solution", I have jelly! Can some-one give me some
> directions please?
>
> Cobus Potgieter
>
> NAMIBIA CERAMICS Tel: +264-61-264526
> PO Box 6742 Fax: +264-61-261590
> Ausspannplatz
> Windhoek
> NAMIBIA
>
> http://www.orusovo.com/namceram
> namceram@orusovo.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________ Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Steve Mills on tue 13 mar 01
Dear Lili,
In Stoke-on-Trent a Potters working apron is (also) usually known as a
Potters' Slop.
We live to confuse!
Wonderful language isn't it
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Lili Krakowski writes
>As far as I know the reason to predissolve this stuff--as well as
>bentonite-- before adding it to the glaze mix-- or "Slop" as Brits
>charmingly and accurately call it--is taht then it disperses more easily
>in the mix. I have reached the "a handful of this, a handful of that"
>level of relaxation in the studio, so I mix up a gallon jug of this
>jelly, then take out what I think I will want and dilute it into a
>sauce/cream soup consistency and mix it into the warm water I use
>to mix the glaze up in.
>
>Lili Krakowski
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Ababi on thu 15 mar 01
This is how I do it. My supplier has C.M.C. called "Peptapon". They said it
was made especially for ceramics.
I boil 2000CC (2 litters of water for my 100 gram package) I pour it to a
bucket.
Prepare my mixer Jiffy, Hanson, ETC,
Make a very small hole in the package and mix it slowly the way mayonnaise
is done.
I pour it to a plastic box. and cover.
When the recipe calls for 2%, I multiply it with 20, as I added 20 cc water
to each gram of Cmc.
You can add the jelly before sieving or after, using a strong mixer, I
prepare the Hanson.
A friend told me that for a recipe that calls for bentonite, up to2% you can
use the CMC instead, I do not remember how much, probably 1%. I do it only
when I don't have enough clay in the recipe.
Now a tip for teachers:
You can prepare it with more water 30/1 add concnteted food color and let
children paint with it as well as prepare collages It paints and it' glue's!
Ababi Sharon
ababisha@shoval.ardom.co.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cobus Potgieter"
To:
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 7:43 PM
Subject: CMC
I am not used to use CMC. Yesterday I mixed 15 grams of CMC with 500ml hot
water (according to a recipe). The CMC dissolved. I let it stand overnight
as the recipe said. This morning the mixture was a jelly-like paste. Is
this how CMC is supposed to look? Is the amount of CMC too high? The
recipe does say that a part of the CMC "solution" must be mixed with the
glaze ingredients and water. But I don't have a "solution", I have jelly!
Can some-one give me some directions please?
Cobus Potgieter
NAMIBIA CERAMICS Tel: +264-61-264526
PO Box 6742 Fax: +264-61-261590
Ausspannplatz
Windhoek
NAMIBIA
http://www.orusovo.com/namceram
namceram@orusovo.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Randy Peckham on tue 16 oct 01
I have heard people talk about CMC fermenting, or spoiling. I read in the
John Kenny book, that CMC is a synthetic binder that was made so that it
didn't spoil. Does CMC spoil?
Also I use the wash everything in a barrel method to protect my sink. I
just dig out the sludge from the bucket, put it in a plaster bin until it
is dry, then wedge it(by hand). I have two 35 gallon buckets one for high
fire, one for low fire. I wash all of the glaze stuff off in the low fire
bin.
My sink is a utility sink, and I am constantly cleaning food dishes in it.
I have though about using the bucket trap idea, looks pretty cool, but just
didn't like the idea of emptying something somewhere that was half clay,
half rotten food.
I really need to find a pugmill. I think I have come up with a design for
a de-airing pugmill that should cost less than $300 to make. The last
piece of the puzzle is the motor. I need to build a prototype to see what
my torque requirements will be.
Edouard Bastarache on tue 16 oct 01
Hello all,
according to Smart.Conseil, CMC spoils and is an excellent culture
medium for micro-organisms. H2S is released with its characteristic
odor. A very small amount of formaldehyde or biocids should cure
the problem.
Actually, some biocids are formaldehyde donors.
Later,
Edouard Bastarache
Irreductible Quebecois
Indomitable Quebeker
Sorel-Tracy
Quebec
edouardb@sorel-tracy.qc.ca
http://sorel-tracy.qc.ca/~edouardb/
http://www.absolutearts.com/portfolios/e/edouardb/
.
Bill Edwards on fri 21 nov 03
CMC or carboxymethylcellulose can get stinky under the
right conditions. Heat, water and chemistry of glaze
effect it if and when it decides to grow enough
bacteria or breakdown in order to smell. Un-treated
water and pH help this along. As Ed stated a biocide
is good to use to retard this condition. Small amounts
may be used, usually 0.2% or so based on which one you
chose on a commercial basis. Thats on weight.
So some who use well water verses city water might see
a slower stink getting raised and good hygenic
practices may even slow it down futher.
CMC is a great product and in my experience can work
very well for many uses in glaze practices. In the
past I have used commercially several tons of it and
had little problems. I did use two biocides at the
time but currently for studio work I use none at all.
Yes, I agree Ron that manufacturers and suppliers
could certainly offer the analyis on their products so
we can keep current. I spoke in depth about this not
too long ago. Its very important to know what is going
on in calculations and the only way to know that is
having proper analysis of the materials on hand or
your basically just getting a close guess as to what
is happening in a batch. So people - do what >>Ron
says and ask them for the analysis. Sooner or latter
they will be willing to offer their analysis even on
the cheap stuff since competition is the leading
factor in profit/loss. Those marketing the chemicals
we use will eventually tag along with the leaders
willing to participate once this gets moving. Theres
several good suppliers already willing to do this and
I praise their efforts.
Bill Edwards
=====
http://www.tallapoosariverpottery.com/
Bill Edwards
PO Box 267
Lafayette, AL, 36862
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bill edwards on mon 4 apr 05
I had a couple mails asking why cold water? No real
reason potters can't use whatever water hot or cold so
long as it works for them. I was detailing my
explanation on how I done this. I was used to large
batch mixing with cold water where I mixed from 55
gallons at a time to 10 tons+ using high speed shear
mixing and homoginizers. (Those smaller hand held
mixers I mentioned work well for this as well as for
mixing coloring oxides for brushing up to 500ml) and
they work with hot or cold. I have used both as a
potter but never when working with industrial chemical
companies and my own business. As a potter, I still
prefer for my own use, cold water and often straight
from the jug, distilled water with a small amount of
propylenen glycol if I am spraying. PG also will help
those in cold climates where freeze/thaw may be an
issue? I have been known to add a drop of surfactant
as well but there's no reason to go into these details
and throw the person who asked the original question
into a tail-spin at this point.
Jonathan Kaplan gave a great representation on this
and while I would have been more in-depth, I have
decided it best to try and stay away from too much
techie talk. I have laid low as possible on that. Too
much over-kill from me would be the same as too much
over-kill I put in already. Lol
Here's a short mention of another method that is used
by a chemical lab explaining a way to reduce bacterial
problems. Less heat, cleaner water, longer use.
'The easiest way to make up any of the MCs or sod.
CMCs is to measure out the desired quantity of the
powder, fill a blender with the right amount of
deionized or distilled water, turn on the blender to
the lowest speed, and pour the powder in a steady
stream into the vortex. As soon as all of the powder
is in the water, turn off the blender. Over-blending
can result in a loss of viscosity. No preservative is
necessary as long as purified water is used and the
storage container is airtight. After blending, it is
best to leave the solution at least one hour before
using.'
Bill Edwards
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Edouard Bastarache Inc. on sun 9 oct 05
On prolonged dry-storage of medium-to-high viscosity types of CMC some =
viscosity loss may occur.
Although CMC solutions are more resistant to microbiological attack than =
most other water-soluble gums, they are not immune. If solutions have to =
be stored for any prolonged period, it is important to destroy or =
immobilize any cellulases (hydrolytic, viscosity destroying enzymes) =
which may have been introduced by microbial action. It is advisable, =
therefore, to employ a suitable preservative from the time the solution =
is effected. Many preservatives are effective and the short list below =
is by no means exhaustive. Preservative manufacturers should be =
consulted regarding suitable type and quantities to use.
Tradename Manufacturer
Proxel CRL Imperial Chemical Industries Limited
Dowicil 75 Dow Chemical Company
Busan Buckman Laboratories Inc
Preventol Bayer
Formaldehyde =20
Sometimes they are already chemically-treated by the maker to prevent =
bacterial growth.
Later,
"Ils sont fous ces quebecois"
"They are insane these quebekers"
"Est=E1n locos estos quebequeses"
Edouard Bastarache
Irreductible Quebecois
Indomitable Quebeker
Sorel-Tracy
Quebec
edouardb@sorel-tracy.qc.ca
www.sorel-tracy.qc.ca/~edouardb/Welcome.html
http://www.flickr.com/photos/potier/
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/smart2000/index.htm
http://www.digitalfire.com/education/toxicity/
bill edwards on mon 10 oct 05
When I used it in manufacturing artist colorants, we/I
added a biocide. I noticed that Dr. Ed mentioned one
that was used by me. In the ceramics end of things, I
have not had any CMC to go rancid on me in situ with
glaze yet. I suspect I may have a treated powder since
biocides come in powder or liquid.
Russel has a good point on mixing CMC, a very good
one. Unless your in a BIG rush you can easily use a
hand blender or stick blender to disperse CMC into
water, hot or tepid and let it sit over-night. If you
are in a big rush you might find that the CMC seems to
swell (thickens) more by the quick addition to your
glaze unless its allowed to hydrate for a period of
time. I use almost the same mixture as below, hand
blend with blender and allow to sit 24 hours and
remix. I store this in gallon containers and keep the
lid on tight. For brushwork it's an almost must have.
To slow drying time down for specific work and very
fine line work I add PG or another humectant such as
glycerin.
Mr. Fouts - I certainly enjoyed your web site. Great
works you have there!
From: Russel Fouts
Subject: Re: CMC gum
The basic receipe is 15g gum to 500g hot water. Blast
it in a blender
(or better with a blender stick) just enough to get
the gum dispersed
and let it sit. It will become like Jello. From there
you can water
it down to add to glaze, color or to spray over glazes
to make a shell.
I'm a converted believer! See the "Ex Voto" I made in
thanks for the
intersession.
http://users.skynet.be/russel.fouts/clayart.htm
Ru
Bill Edwards
Edmar Studio and Gallery
302 South Main St (Shipping)
POB 367 (Mailing)
Camp Hill, Al. 36850
http://apottersmark.blogspot.com/
"Those that matter don't mind, and those that mind don't matter"
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Ron Roy on mon 10 oct 05
And - be aware of the toxicity issues in using such chemicals - and pay
special attention to amounts recommended and storage of such dangerous
materials.
RR
>Tradename Manufacturer
>
>Proxel CRL Imperial Chemical Industries Limited
>Dowicil 75 Dow Chemical Company
>Busan Buckman Laboratories Inc
>Preventol Bayer
>Formaldehyde
>
>Sometimes they are already chemically-treated by the maker to prevent
>bacterial growth.
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
Bonnie Staffel on tue 11 oct 05
The method that I have used for years is to take an old working blender,
filling it 2/3rd full of boiling water. As it is whirring I take a
spoonful of dry CMC and shake the grains into the whirlpool. It starts
to gel up as enough is added. I stop when it becomes syrupy. Seems
like the total amount used is about two tablespoons. I can then use it
with my Mason Stains to make them smear proof. I store this mixture in
a clean covered jar. Now that the conversation in Clayart introduced
the fact that perhaps a biocide had been added to the original dry CMC
powder, I have never had any mold form in my glazes that I make in very
large batches so that it is usable over a long period of time.
Warm regards,
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
Gene Arnold on fri 8 may 09
I have a glaze that is used just as an accent glaze on the outside of =3D
pots and it is very easy to brush off. The slightest little touch will =3D
brush the glaze off and leave a spot or finger print.
I have some CMC but I don't know how much should be used in a glaze to =3D
make it durable to the point the pots can be handled.=3D20
So could some one tell me what percent to use in the glaze?? Does the =3D
CMC need to be mixed in warm water before adding to the glaze?? Will the =
=3D
CMC change the glaze??
The recipe is:
Steve's fake ash
40 Whiting
60 Nep. Sy.
4 Rutile
Thanks for any help!!
Gene=3D20
mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
www.mudduckpottery.net
David Woof on sat 9 may 09
________________________________________________________________________
Hi Gene=3D2C =3D20
Step one: for sprayed glaze that tends to smude and fingerprint as you des=
=3D
cribe=3D2C I use 15 grams of CMC=3D2C mixed hot=3D2C added to a total of on=
e gall=3D
on of water=3D2C with a shot of chlorine bleach=3D2C and used 100% as the l=
iqui=3D
d agent in my glaze. I use this solution to mix all of the glazes I use fo=
=3D
r what ever application method I chose. Also I add 2% to 5% bentonite=3D2=
C =3D
depending on the amount and saturation of the iron and heavy dense frits=3D=
2C=3D
to the glaze recipe as well. =3D20
=3D20
CMC and bentonite both act as suspension agents in the wet glaze=3D2C and p=
ro=3D
mote a tough "skin" to the unfired glaze surface as well.
=3D20
The second step: for the sprayed glazes as you describe=3D2C I mix a stron=
ge=3D
r=3D2C 30 grams to the gallon of CMC and overspray the sprayed glaze to loc=
k =3D
down that sensitive matrix of sprayed droplets and give an additional "skin=
=3D
" to protect from the handling smudging. Spray carefully to give a wet sur=
=3D
face glisten but do not saturate until the sprayed CMC runs and disturbs th=
=3D
e glaze underneth. Wet thouroughly=3D2C let dry=3D2C handle gently. I h=
ave =3D
used this method for years with success. I have never had CMC or Bentonite=
=3D
=3D2C in these porpotions=3D2C change or adversly effect any glaze I have u=
sed.
Addition of Ball clay acts in a similar fashion=3D2C but requires glaze rec=
al=3D
culation to balance for glaze stability and may change the fired glaze char=
=3D
acter. IF I went this route I would still add my trusty CMC and Bentonite.=
=3D
See Ron or John to name two of our trusted resident glaze sensie for assi=
=3D
stance if you wish to explore and learn in this direction.
=3D20
On Fri=3D2C May 8=3D2C 2009 at 10:19 PM=3D2C Gene Arnold ttery.=3D
net>wrote:
> I have a glaze that is used just as an accent glaze on the outside of pot=
=3D
s
> and it is very easy to brush off. The slightest little touch will brush t=
=3D
he
> glaze off and leave a spot or finger print.
>
> I have some CMC but I don't know how much should be used in a glaze to ma=
=3D
ke
> it durable to the point the pots can be handled.
>
> So could some one tell me what percent to use in the glaze?? Does the CMC
> need to be mixed in warm water before adding to the glaze?? Will the CMC
> change the glaze??
David Woof =3D20
=3D20
Clarkdale=3D2C Arizona Davidwoofstudio.com
_________________________________________________________________
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Ron Roy on sat 9 may 09
2% bentonite would be worth a try - I think I can work a revision using fri=
t
3110 so that some ball clay can be added - let me know if you want to try
that - RR
RR
On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 10:19 PM, Gene Arnold wr=
ote:
> I have a glaze that is used just as an accent glaze on the outside of pot=
s
> and it is very easy to brush off. The slightest little touch will brush t=
he
> glaze off and leave a spot or finger print.
>
> I have some CMC but I don't know how much should be used in a glaze to ma=
ke
> it durable to the point the pots can be handled.
>
> So could some one tell me what percent to use in the glaze?? Does the CMC
> need to be mixed in warm water before adding to the glaze?? Will the CMC
> change the glaze??
>
>
> The recipe is:
>
> Steve's fake ash
> 40 Whiting
> 60 Nep. Sy.
>
> 4 Rutile
>
> Thanks for any help!!
> Gene
> mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
> www.mudduckpottery.net
>
--
Ron Roy
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario, Canada
K0K 1H0
Dana & Chris Trabka on sun 10 may 09
Gene,
I add about 1 teaspoon of CMC to about 5 gallons of glaze. I pre-mix the CM=
C
on the stove (boiling water) until there are no lumps. Note that CMC is a
defloculant. I mix the glaze a bit thick then add the liquid/syrup CMC. If
the resulting glaze slop is too thin or settles quickly add some calcium
chloride (ice melt) that has been mixed in water - when adding the calcium
chloride add a teaspoon at a time to a 5 gallon bucket of glaze slop.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Arnold"
To:
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 10:19 PM
Subject: CMC
I have a glaze that is used just as an accent glaze on the outside of pots
and it is very easy to brush off. The slightest little touch will brush the
glaze off and leave a spot or finger print.
I have some CMC but I don't know how much should be used in a glaze to make
it durable to the point the pots can be handled.
So could some one tell me what percent to use in the glaze?? Does the CMC
need to be mixed in warm water before adding to the glaze?? Will the CMC
change the glaze??
The recipe is:
Steve's fake ash
40 Whiting
60 Nep. Sy.
4 Rutile
Thanks for any help!!
Gene
mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
www.mudduckpottery.net
Snail Scott on sun 10 may 09
On May 8, 2009, at 9:19 PM, Gene Arnold wrote:
> So could some one tell me what percent to use in the glaze?? Does the
> CMC need to be mixed in warm water before adding to the glaze?? Will
> the CMC change the glaze??
Start with 1% and see how it handles. You can always
add more. If you premix it in water, you can use the glaze
right away. If you mix it in dry, it canl make tapioca-like
beads that will need to slake, then be mixed in properly
the next morning. CMC is organic, so it burns out in firing
with no visible effect on the glaze.
-Snail
Des & Jan Howard on sun 10 may 09
Gene
Several of our glazes are extremely dusty & friable.
We add 30 ml of CMC mix to 1000 ml of glaze.
This makes the glaze better for handling. Add more if a
tougher glaze coat is desired. The glaze is not altered
in any way apart from being less dusty to handle.
CMC mix - 90 gm CMC gum, 1200 ml hot water, disperse
gum. Add 4800 ml cold water, mix with column stirrer.
Oh! Add one cap of Dettol antiseptic.*
Makes 3 x 2L juice bottles of watery jelly.
Des
* For the unfortunate overseas people without access to
this miraculous Oz product, you'll have to find your
own poor substitute. When added to water it turns
milky. Swabbed over injuries I have with my own eyes,
albeit very young & teary, seen arterial blood flow
cease, torn limbs drawn together, & yea, the dead to walk.
This periodic application & regular intake of Vegemite
sammidges enabled the Children of Oz to stride the
world like Colossi.
Gene Arnold wrote:
> I have a glaze that is used just as an accent glaze
>on the outside of pots and it is very easy to brush off.
>The slightest little touch will brush the glaze off
>and leave a spot or finger print.
>I have some CMC but I don't know how much should be
>used in a glaze to make it durable to the point
>the pots can be handled.
> So could some one tell me what percent to use
>in the glaze?? Does the CMC need to be mixed in
>warm water before adding to the glaze??
>Will the CMC change the glaze??
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
Lue NSW
Australia
2850
02 6373 6419
www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
-32.656072 149.840624
martin on sun 10 may 09
On May 10, 2009, at 4:16 AM, Dana & Chris Trabka wrote:
> I add about 1 teaspoon of CMC to about 5 gallons of glaze. I pre-mix
> the CMC
> on the stove (boiling water) until there are no lumps.
It's soluble in alcohol (rubbing alcohol worked fine) - and won't lump
- can then be added to glaze.
David Woof on thu 14 may 09
Hi Gene=3D2C =3D20
Step one: for sprayed glaze that tends to smude and fingerprint as you des=
=3D
cribe=3D2C I use 15 grams of CMC=3D2C mixed hot=3D2C added to a total of on=
e gall=3D
on of water=3D2C with a shot of chlorine bleach=3D2C and used 100% as the l=
iqui=3D
d agent in my glaze. I use this solution to mix all of the glazes I use fo=
=3D
r what ever application method I chose. Also I add 2% to 5% bentonite=3D2=
C =3D
depending on the amount and saturation of the iron and heavy dense frits=3D=
2C=3D
to the glaze recipe as well. =3D20
=3D20
CMC and bentonite both act as suspension agents in the wet glaze=3D2C and p=
ro=3D
mote a tough "skin" to the unfired glaze surface as well.
=3D20
The second step: for the sprayed glazes as you describe=3D2C I mix a stron=
ge=3D
r=3D2C 30 grams to the gallon of CMC and overspray the sprayed glaze to loc=
k =3D
down that sensitive matrix of sprayed droplets and give an additional "skin=
=3D
" to protect from the handling smudging. Spray carefully to give a wet sur=
=3D
face glisten but do not saturate until the sprayed CMC runs and disturbs th=
=3D
e glaze underneth. Wet thouroughly=3D2C let dry=3D2C handle gently. I h=
ave =3D
used this method for years with success. I have never had CMC or Bentonite=
=3D
=3D2C in these porpotions=3D2C change or adversly effect any glaze I have u=
sed.
Addition of Ball clay acts in a similar fashion=3D2C but requires glaze rec=
al=3D
culation to balance for glaze stability and may change the fired glaze char=
=3D
acter. IF I went this route I would still add my trusty CMC and Bentonite.=
=3D
See Ron or John to name two of our trusted resident glaze sensie for assi=
=3D
stance if you wish to explore and learn in this direction.
=3D20
On Fri=3D2C May 8=3D2C 2009 at 10:19 PM=3D2C Gene Arnold ttery.=3D
net>wrote:
> I have a glaze that is used just as an accent glaze on the outside of pot=
=3D
s
> and it is very easy to brush off. The slightest little touch will brush t=
=3D
he
> glaze off and leave a spot or finger print.
>
> I have some CMC but I don't know how much should be used in a glaze to ma=
=3D
ke
> it durable to the point the pots can be handled.
>
> So could some one tell me what percent to use in the glaze?? Does the CMC
> need to be mixed in warm water before adding to the glaze?? Will the CMC
> change the glaze??
David Woof =3D20
=3D20
Clarkdale=3D2C Arizona Davidwoofstudio.com
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