SAVanVleck on wed 18 mar 98
In a message dated 98-03-17 08:51:24 EST, you write:
<< ctually I'm firing to cone 8 currently but want to move it down little.
Cone 6 is more standard.I use a glaze with wood ash. I don't wash the ash,
but I do screen it. The woodash has to be soft, white, fluffy. Not from a wood
kiln! That kind is sintered and won't get the best results.>You can tell it
will feel crispy at >first.
>
>LEACH YELLOW SETO - CONE 6 OXIDATION
>woodash 50
>ochre 25
>custer 25
>
>Seems to be better on porcelain. Some- times bright yellow, sometimes
browner
>depends on mineral content of the ash >which varies from wood to wood.
Darker
>and more opaque where thin goes to >almost black. Yellow where thicker.
>Keep glaze thin or you will be scraping >shelves. Becomes transparent
yellowish
>brown and very fluid when thickly applied. >The mid way thin/thick of
application is
>mottled like a salt fired piece and is satin matte. But I got great reds,
yellows, browns, blacks on pieces where >it's thinner. To make tiny rivers of
ash >I make the same glaze substituting Red Art for the Ochre and trail it on
with a slip trail bulb. aution: use rubber gloves with unwashed ash glazes or
face the possibility of contact dermatitis.It will mildly burn the skin. I
keep Cornhuskers lotion and Hydrocortisone
>cream around the house anyway. I layer it with a glossy, glassy glaze
that>by itself has its own problems like>keeping me up at night to the
sound>of loudly cooling and crazing *pings*:>
>BARIUM/BORON/ASH
>Wood ash 19.5
>Barnard Slip Clay 16.5
>Custer 23
>Gerstley Borate 11
>Barium Carbonate 8
>Zinc 3
>plus Copper Carbonate 1.5
>
>Needs to be corrected for fit and pinholes >but every clay body is a
different can of
>worms. The barium/boron eutectic makes it >hard to say what cone this fires
to - the >longer it is in kiln or the greater the>thermal mass of the kiln the
more it will
>flux. Formulated originally without the >ash or slip clay it was semi-satin,
semi-
>gloss somewhere around cone 2. Boron >subdues the copper coloration.
>
>CHOCOLATE SUPER-HIWAY
>Custer 35
>Gerstley 17
>Barium Carb 12
>Zinc Ox 5
>plus as much local dark red clay as I >can get into it. Then I layer over
it >with the same glaze without the clay. >This gets a highly pitted chocolate
>cake look with a cratered & pinholed >glossy surface. >
>I don't like any of the above glazes >inside a bowl. I kinda like more of a
>feldspathic glaze for eating/drinking >surface. So here are some regular
>types:
>
>CORNBALL WHITE - cone 6 ox
>Cornwall Stone 45.61
>OM4 21.27
>Talc 6.73
>Whiting 7.15
>Barium 11.88
>
>KONA WHITE - cone 6 ox
>Kona F-4 41.03
>Cornwall Stone 41.03
>Wollastonite 1.10
>Barium Carb 3.33
>Zinc Ox 2.19
>
>PERMANENT TAN - cone 6 ox
>Wollastonite 30.33
>Talc 8.88
>Spodumene 49.77
>EPK 11.02
>
>As I remember they were all quite nice. >But these and about half a dozen
other
>tests went into a bucket of "mystery >glaze" liner to which I added even
more >Custer, Kona F-4, EPK, then came in >later with scoops of Gerstley and
>zircopax for a really nice satin with >no problems. I need to find a Mac up
at >KU that has the HyperglazeIIx on it with >my files to reconstruct. But it
may not>be worth it. That concept is simple if >ya know how to use the program
and >maximize the feldspars, lithium, KNaO >and get plenty of other fluxes in
each >glaze.
>
>
>BULLFROG GREEN - cone 5 ox
>Custer 47
>Whiting 7.5
>Barium Carbonate 10.5
>Zinc Oxide 6
>OM4 5
>EPK 5
>Flint 19
>Copper Carbonate 4
>I like a lot of green. But this ain't >no Kermit green. Very stony matte
with >very hard surface. I suspect it was a >tile glaze. Joe Zeller supplied
the base, >I went ape with the copper.
>I'm not taking responsibility for anyone >using these glazes, etc. Something
is
>probably toxic. They are examples of my >research and they work out in
formulation. >Which is what they are examples of. >So go formulate your own
non-toxic glazes, >if that is possible. It's probably bad >for the environment
too. Email me with >questions as to household performance, as >that may be
indicative of other problems. >The badly crazed surfaces are not considered
>to be a continous-non porous sanitary >surfaces.
>Eric Hansen, Lawrence, Kansas
carol young on fri 11 sep 98
I need help finding a cone 6 oxidation glaze. We are looking for a Matt
finish in a cream to off white with iron red to black spots. Any earthy
looking glazes would be welcome.
Thank you
Carol Young and her Pottery students
Leslie St.Clair on sat 12 sep 98
Hi Carol, Here's a glaze I got from Clayart that is a
buttery matt cream/white. It doesn't have specks but does have a nice bit of
texture, and looks earthy. Leather c6
ox dolomite 21
gerstley borate 10 spodumene
9 wollastonite 5 custer spar
27 neph sy 12 kaolin
16 Good luck with
this. Leslie St. Clair
Rick Brady on sat 12 sep 98
Carol,
If you don't mind "pre-mixed", I suggest that you try Laguna's Moroccan
Sand Stoneware Glaze - MS-19 Cream. I have found this glaze to be very
consistent at cone 5/6 in oxidation. It is also available in dry form
in larger amounts. Most major distributors carry the glaze or I'm sure
you can order directly from Laguna (800-4-Laguna). I purchase it at
Leslie Ceramic Supply in Berkley, CA. but I know it is also available
through Bennett Pottery in FL. I'm currently using it on a set of
dinner ware I'm making for my daughter and I REALLY LIKE IT!!
Rick Brady
Pleasanton, CA
Trying to get enough bisqued pots together for a Pit Fire/Raku Class at
the Mendocino Art Center in two weeks. Sometimes my day job just gets
in the way of my hobbies - sigh...
> ----------
> From: carol young[SMTP:lthfcjy@northstar.k12.ak.us]
> Reply To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Sent: Friday, September 11, 1998 5:16 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: cone 6 glaze
>
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> I need help finding a cone 6 oxidation glaze. We are looking for a
> Matt
> finish in a cream to off white with iron red to black spots. Any
> earthy
> looking glazes would be welcome.
> Thank you
> Carol Young and her Pottery students
>
Carol Brody on sun 13 sep 98
what is sy?
lpskeen on mon 14 sep 98
Carol Brody wrote:
> what is sy?
Probably Nepheline Syenite.
--
Lisa Skeen ICQ# 15554910
Living Tree Pottery & Soaps
http://www.uncg.edu/~lpskeen
"We will have to repent in this generation not merely for the hateful
words and actions of the bad people, but for the appalling silence of
the good people." -- Dr. M. L. King, Jr. 4/16/63
Leslie St.Clair on tue 15 sep 98
Somehow the glaze recipe I sent was garbled, so here it is
again. Leather Cone 6 oxidation, satin-matt cream/white 21
dolomite 10 gerstley borate 9
spodumene 5 wollastonite 27 custer
feldspar 12 nepheline syenite 16
kaolin Hope it works this time.... Leslie
St. Clair
Ron Roy on fri 18 sep 98
Hi Carol,
I usually abreviate Nepheline Syanite as Neph Sy - has this to do with a
recipe I posted?
RR
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>what is sy?
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Marek & Pauline Drzazga-Donaldson on fri 10 mar 00
------------------
with reference to the following :
I have done a number of tests recently in search of a clear cone 6
glaze. I assumed that transparent and translucent meant clear, but the
glazes have all turned out semi-opaque. Is my understanding of these
designations faulty or am I somehow mixing them wrong? I'm searching
for a food safe, dependable cone 6 glaze that pools nicely. My surface
has areas with impressions and bas relief and i'd like to find a glaze
that can be made to look mostly clear over smooth areas with
concentrations of color in the areas where it pools. I'm planning on
using copper carb to get my color in an oxidation atmosphere. I would
of course, like to steer clear of anything with gerstley in it and I'd
prefer to keep the recipe fairly simple. Any enlightenment provided
would be most appreciated=21
I have developed a once fire cone 6 glaze from the basic Leach cone 10 - 11
glaze.
Cone 6 Based on Leach Clear/Transparent Oxidised
Potash Feldspar 40
Flint (Quartz) 25
Whiting (CaCo3) 20
China Clay 12.5
This gives a really good shiny surface and can be quite thick and does not =
run.
You could add 2.5 of Bentonite to make it up to unity.
Cone 6 Raw or Once Fired Glaze. This glaze can be painted on very easily=21
Potash Feldspar 38
Flint (Quartz) 20
Whiting (Chalk) 32
Ball Clay 10
Bentonite 2
This glaze acts in similar manner to the first. Can be applied thick, takes
oxides well, very stable over a wide range, does not run. If this one works =
for
you let me know. It really is a stallwart for me.If you give it a really =
good
cone 6 -7 then it will pool nicely.
Happy potting Marek http://www.moley.uk.com
Marek & Pauline Drzazga-Donaldson on fri 5 may 00
------------------
Dear Alisa =26 Claus,
sorry not to have got back to you, but I have been using (sucessfully) the =
raw
=3C6 glaze, glazing a Bhuddist Temple Roof, about 3000 tiles in all, and a =
variety
of shapes (12 different styles), I have had some pinholing, but the firing =
range
has been great from =3C6 to about =3C8 at the hottest parts in my kiln, and =
the blue
is very good through the range.
I hope RR will be able to sort you out, and I look forward to Ron's input. =
Maybe
it is your firing cycle. My kiln is gas (propane) and about 1.5cu.m. in =
volume,
I stack (3 levels) about 130 curved pantiles (4 kilos in dry weight) face to
face and fire over a 27 hour cycle, the temperature on my pyro usually reads
1250 on a tightly packed kiln, or 1230 on a more loosely packed one with the
cone in each case bending in half to touch its nose to the floor. I do not =
fire
reduction.
I hope this is of use to you. If you have more questions I will try and =
answer
more quickly next time.
Happy potting Marek http://www.moley.uk.com
Elinor Eberhardt on wed 3 apr 02
I have a couple of nice matte white glazes, cone 6 oxidation. What can
I add to give them a little tan speckling without changing their white
color?
Elinor
Kathy Maves on wed 3 apr 02
Hi Elinor,
You could try granular illmenite (not powdered.) The
effect depends on the specific type, so if you get a
glaze you love, buy extra. It's cheap anyway.
Good luck!
Kathy
Barronett, WI
kathymaves@yahoo.com
www.greendragonstudios.com
--- Elinor Eberhardt wrote:
> I have a couple of nice matte white glazes, cone 6
> oxidation. What can
> I add to give them a little tan speckling without
> changing their white
> color?
>
> Elinor
__________________________________________________
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Ababi on thu 4 apr 02
Granular rutile 1-2%, granular manganese 0.2% rust-2% granular
perlite 5%.
---------- Original Message ----------
>Hi Elinor,
> You could try granular ilmenite
Hedy Demontigny on wed 24 may 06
Hi
Here goes. This is my first time on listserv, I hope I'm doing this =
right.
I have a blue glaze that I've used for years. It a nice cone 6 glaze but =
when over fired slightly it is much nicer. It needs to be in the hottest =
part of my kiln to make it shiny. The last firing was probably cone 7 or =
more (trouble with my kiln sitter) The clay was a bit bubbled but the =
glaze was beautiful.
Here is the recipe
Zinc oxide 5.1
Feldspar 36.1
Whiting 8.1
Grestley borate 13.0
Talc 6.4
Kaolin 5.0
Flint 26.3
Bentonite 2.5
Is there something I can do to lower the firing temp to get the effect I =
am looking for at cone 6.=20
I have tried some of the blue glazes from Mastering Cone 6 glazes. Not =
quite what I am looking for.
Thank you Hedy
Steve Slatin on wed 24 may 06
Hedy --
I don't know exactly what your materials are
(like what kind of feldspar you're using) but I
put it in GlazeMaster with Custer Feldspar and
EPK kaolin just to see what you might have -- I
see (in molar %) 4.39 alkali, 4.29 zinc oxide,
10.22 CaO and 3.28 B2O3 melters.
For a cone 6 you probably have insufficient
melters overall, but only by a little bit. Your
alumina is a bit low, and Si/Al ratio high, so if
you're not getting a smooth surface probably
you're not quite getting a good melt.
As a glaze tinkerer I'm going to guess what you
like about the glaze is that it is rich in
calcium and zinc. Calcium is not an especially
strong flux, at least at ^6 -- so the easy
approach of dropping a little whiting and adding
something that's a slightly stronger flux will
improve the melt but possibly leave you with a
runny glaze (since your Alumina is a bit low)
that doesn't look like what you're after. You've
got a good bit of zinc in there, and I find that
the results with higher zinc concentrations are
sometimes less than aesthetically pleasing, so I
wouldn't want to mess with that.
So how can we easily get from where you are to
what you want? One possibility is to drop the
feldspar by a bit -- say to 32.1% and raise the
Gerstley by a similar amount. This puts your
melters more in the range of typical ^6 glazes,
the Si/Al ratio goes down only a little and the
CaO (that I'm guessing is what you like about
your glaze) gets a bit higher.
A good idea to test this would be with a straight
line blend to give yourself incremental changes
in the feldspar/gerstley proportions.
Then do a good solid test turning off the kiln
when the #6 cone is down, and see where you get
the result you need. And if you do this, please
post your results.
Best wishes -- Steve S
--- Hedy Demontigny wrote:
> Hi
> Here goes. This is my first time on listserv, I
> hope I'm doing this right.
>
> I have a blue glaze that I've used for years.
> It a nice cone 6 glaze but when over fired
> slightly it is much nicer. It needs to be in
> the hottest part of my kiln to make it shiny.
> The last firing was probably cone 7 or more
> (trouble with my kiln sitter) The clay was a
> bit bubbled but the glaze was beautiful.
>
> Here is the recipe
>
> Zinc oxide 5.1
> Feldspar 36.1
> Whiting 8.1
> Grestley borate 13.0
> Talc 6.4
> Kaolin 5.0
> Flint 26.3
> Bentonite 2.5
>
> Is there something I can do to lower the firing
> temp to get the effect I am looking for at cone
> 6.
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John Post on wed 24 may 06
Hi Hedy,
I used to try to tweak glazes this way and that using glaze calculation
software and testing.
My favorite approach now is to use Ian Currie's grid method for testing
a glaze.
Basically you make 4 small glaze batches.
One is all flux, the other 3 have varying amounts of clay and flint.
You blend all of these using a syringe and end up with 35 different
glazes that you apply to a grid tile.
It sounds like a lot of work and it requires a little bit of learning,
but it's kind of like running a marathon, only you get to start right at
the finish line. Instead of a lot of random testing, you make this one
grid tile that takes about 3 hours to complete and then you have 35
different but organized variations of your glaze.
Ian Currie describes it as fishing with a net instead of hook.
Whenever I decide to test a new glaze, I run a grid on it.
Often I find better glazes somewhere else on the grid that are better
than the original. The important thing is that on almost every grid
there is at least one or more really good glazes. In your case, you
might find the right combination of ingredients to produce exactly the
glaze you are looking for in one shot.
You can get both his books at Steve Branfman's Potter's Shop or at Axner
pottery. You can also get a feel for the method on line at ...
http://ian.currie.to/original/
I know this isn't the fast easy answer you're looking for, but it is one
of the best things I ever taught myself to do regarding glaze making.
John Post
Sterling Heights, Michigan
>I have a blue glaze that I've used for years. It a nice cone 6 glaze but when over fired slightly it is much nicer. It needs to be in the hottest part of my kiln to make it shiny. The last firing was probably cone 7 or more (trouble with my kiln sitter) The clay was a bit bubbled but the glaze was beautiful.
>
>Here is the recipe
>
>Zinc oxide 5.1
>Feldspar 36.1
>Whiting 8.1
>Grestley borate 13.0
>Talc 6.4
>Kaolin 5.0
>Flint 26.3
>Bentonite 2.5
>
>Is there something I can do to lower the firing temp to get the effect I am looking for at cone 6.
>I have tried some of the blue glazes from Mastering Cone 6 glazes. Not quite what I am looking for.
>
>
David Hewitt on thu 25 may 06
Hedy,
Running this through CeramDat and looking at the Al2O3 / SiO2 plot, it
would suggest to me that an increase in the Kaolin (EPK) would be an
easy and good thing to try. I would do a progression blend by
increasing the kaolin from 5 to 10 to 15 and 20. On paper the 15 figure
looked the best.
David
In message , Hedy Demontigny writes
>Hi
>Here goes. This is my first time on listserv, I hope I'm doing this right.
>
>I have a blue glaze that I've used for years. It a nice cone 6 glaze
>but when over fired slightly it is much nicer. It needs to be in the
>hottest part of my kiln to make it shiny. The last firing was probably
>cone 7 or more (trouble with my kiln sitter) The clay was a bit bubbled
>but the glaze was beautiful.
>
>Here is the recipe
>
>Zinc oxide 5.1
>Feldspar 36.1
>Whiting 8.1
>Grestley borate 13.0
>Talc 6.4
>Kaolin 5.0
>Flint 26.3
>Bentonite 2.5
>
>Is there something I can do to lower the firing temp to get the effect
>I am looking for at cone 6.
>I have tried some of the blue glazes from Mastering Cone 6 glazes. Not
>quite what I am looking for.
>Thank you Hedy
--
David Hewitt
Web:- http://www.dhpot.demon.co.uk
Ron Roy on thu 25 may 06
Hi Hedy,
This could be as simple as the current GB being more refractory than the old -
If you want to make a glaze melt more without increasing the temperature
you either take out some silica and alumina (keeping the Si/Al ratio the
same) or add more flux - or both.
You did not say which spar so I used G200 - try this and let us know what
happens. Remember - making a glaze melt more can result in running so be
careful especially with heavier applications.
Spar - 33.0
GB - 15.0
Whitg - 9.0
Talc - 7.5
Zinc Ox - 5.0
EPK - 5.5
Silica - 25.0
Bentonite - 2.0
Total 102.0
Not as stable as the original - RR
>Here goes. This is my first time on listserv, I hope I'm doing this right.
>
>I have a blue glaze that I've used for years. It a nice cone 6 glaze but
>when over fired slightly it is much nicer. It needs to be in the hottest
>part of my kiln to make it shiny. The last firing was probably cone 7 or
>more (trouble with my kiln sitter) The clay was a bit bubbled but the
>glaze was beautiful.
>
>Here is the recipe
>
>Zinc oxide 5.1
>Feldspar 36.1
>Whiting 8.1
>Grestley borate 13.0
>Talc 6.4
>Kaolin 5.0
>Flint 26.3
>Bentonite 2.5
>
>Is there something I can do to lower the firing temp to get the effect I
>am looking for at cone 6.
>I have tried some of the blue glazes from Mastering Cone 6 glazes. Not
>quite what I am looking for.
>Thank you Hedy
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
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