Bettsie Gibbs on sat 21 mar 98
I am just starting to think about making my own glazes- I currently work
with commercial low-fire gloss glaze and find that I'm frustrated with the
results- I'm wanting more interesting surface effects and color variation.
Does anybody have any suggestions as to good recipes for cone 06 range? I'd
appreciate any advice on the matter as well. Thanks- Abby
Cwolo on fri 1 may 98
What does everyone do with those left over test glazes that, for what ever
reason you don't want to keep?
Is it unrealistic for me to expect to find a bright yellow glaze formula at ^6
ox? I know Spectrum makes bright yellow and red, but they are very expensive.
Has anyone formulated one. I have tested many but they are all pale or more
gold.
TIA
Diane Florida Bird Lady
David Hendley on sat 2 may 98
Left over glazes:
If you mix your own claybody, just add the left over glaze tests
to the mix. A couple of cups of glaze will have no effect on a
hundred pound batch of clay.
Bright yellow:
Buy some Ceradac (sp?) inclusion stain, and add 5 to 10% to a
good ^6 base glaze. I promise you will have bright yellow.
The stain is about $40 a pound, as is the bright red, but half a pound
will color a gallon or more of glaze. The manufacturer claims that
the stains are food safe, but since cadmium is involved, I do not
and suggest you do not, use such glazes as liner glazes. I buy the
stain from Trinity Ceramic Supply in Dallas.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
At 08:50 AM 5/1/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>What does everyone do with those left over test glazes that, for what ever
>reason you don't want to keep?
>
>Is it unrealistic for me to expect to find a bright yellow glaze formula
at ^6
>ox? I know Spectrum makes bright yellow and red, but they are very
expensive.
>Has anyone formulated one. I have tested many but they are all pale or more
>gold.
>TIA
>
>Diane Florida Bird Lady
>
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
hendley@sosweb.net
Cheryl L Litman on sat 2 may 98
Take all unwanted glaze tests and scrap glazes and add them to a big
bucket. When the bucket is full, mix it up and fire a few test tiles.
My "slop" glazes so far have been beautiful and I guess I've been lucky
because I've never yet had to adjust one. With all the ingredients I
added, they've all melted just fine. Last bucket was a nice glossy
medium textural blue and yet most of the stuff that went in the bucket
was from tests which were too dry!
Cheryl Litman
Somerset, NJ
email: cheryllitman@juno.com
On Fri, 1 May 1998 08:50:49 EDT Cwolo writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>What does everyone do with those left over test glazes that, for what
>ever
>reason you don't want to keep?
>
>Is it unrealistic for me to expect to find a bright yellow glaze
>formula at ^6
>ox? I know Spectrum makes bright yellow and red, but they are very
>expensive.
>Has anyone formulated one. I have tested many but they are all pale
>or more
>gold.
>TIA
>
>Diane Florida Bird Lady
>
_____________________________________________________________________
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Janet H Walker on sun 3 may 98
...What does everyone do with those left over test glazes...
Mix 'em all together. Sieve. Test. Try some opacifier. Label it
"my mystery". Use. So long as they were all for the same firing
range (and even if they weren't) you will probably get a fine usable
glaze, probably blue-green in color (or in your case, maybe gold!!)
with interesting texture. Hide it inside vases if you don't like
it; on the outsides of bowls if you are afraid of its leachability.
...is it unrealistic...bright yellow glaze formula at ^6...
I believe that the short answer is "yes" if you mean mixing one for
yourself. Bright yellow means toxic ingredients like cadmium for
example. There just isn't any other way to do it. And you don't
mix those for yourself if you're wise. You buy the stains or glazes
if you are willing to use those colorants at all.
A thought -- if you have many "gold" ^6 glaze formulas, I bet there
are people on this list who will want to talk with you!!
Cheers,
Jan Walker
Cambridge MA USA
Cwolo on tue 5 may 98
Hi Jan,
Thanks for the info. Have tried two "gold" glazes. One was Klineville Gold,
that came from CLAYART, the other a brown and gold. Didn't much like the
Klineville Gold but the other was nice. Not food safe though.
Varigated Gold to Brown
Talc 23
Lithium 9
Neph sye 15
Whiting 3
Barium 50
Red Iron Oxide 10
Diane Florida Bird Lady
Mudnjoy on wed 6 may 98
In a message dated 98-05-05 08:04:36 EDT, you write:
>
> Varigated Gold to Brown
>
> Talc 23
> Lithium 9
> Neph sye 15
> Whiting 3
> Barium 50
>
> Red Iron Oxide 10
>
>
> Diane Florida Bird Lady
>
CONE WHAT??
Myrrhia Rae Resneck-Sannes on wed 6 may 98
I have a cone ten glossy yellow glaze. It is simply a clear glossy,
feldspathetic glaze to which I've added 6-8% Vanandium stain. This
should work for you if you make a few tests first. Vanandium isn't that
expensive and it is offered in many shades. Working with rutile is a
little trickier. Try Antimony Oxide too, although if you are afraid of
Barium, you might want to research Antimony first before using it. I
suspect it is slightly volitile.
Cwolo on thu 7 may 98
Sorry everybody ^6 ox on the Varigated Gold to Brown.
On the inserts for drawer pulls, would everyone reply to the list. Many of
us would like to know.
Diane Florida Bird Lady
Paul Lewing on thu 7 may 98
Myrrhia Rae Resneck-Sannes wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have a cone ten glossy yellow glaze. It is simply a clear glossy,
> feldspathetic glaze to which I've added 6-8% Vanandium stain. This
> should work for you if you make a few tests first. Vanandium isn't that
> expensive and it is offered in many shades. Working with rutile is a
> little trickier. Try Antimony Oxide too, although if you are afraid of
> Barium, you might want to research Antimony first before using it. I
> suspect it is slightly volitile.
If you're working at cone 10, don't even bother testing the Antimony.
It completely disappears about cone 01. Besides that, if you think
vanadium is toxic, you ain't seen nothin' till you compare it to
antimony!
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Ron Roy on sun 10 may 98
Some of the recorded problems with Vanadium are: can cause anemia, kidey
disfunction, gastronintestinal disorders, nervous system damage and cough.
Some of the problems with Antimony - kidney and liver degeneration, adverse
reproductive effects, and often contaminated with cignificant amounts of
arsenic.
6 to 8 % is a lot and the glaze would have to be very durable to hold it -
in fact it may be that no glaze could keep that much in solution.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have a cone ten glossy yellow glaze. It is simply a clear glossy,
>feldspathetic glaze to which I've added 6-8% Vanandium stain. This
>should work for you if you make a few tests first. Vanandium isn't that
>expensive and it is offered in many shades. Working with rutile is a
>little trickier. Try Antimony Oxide too, although if you are afraid of
>Barium, you might want to research Antimony first before using it. I
>suspect it is slightly volitile.
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus trail
Scarborough Otario
Canada M1G 3N8
Phone: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: Home page http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Patrick Logue on tue 9 oct 01
I'm especially hoping somebody knows the answer to
part 2
1 When I stack my glazed tiles, the raw clay/grog on
the back of one can leave scratch marks on the glaze
of the one under it. Is my glaze "soft" or will the
raw clay do that to any glaze.
2 I've used an iron oxide wash to paint on clay for
years. I fire to ^5. I like the washy watercolor
effect, and I'm wondering if i can achieve other
colors, with stains/oxides. I think I tried a few
things yrs ago, but if I remember properly, they didnt
want to adhere to the clay surface.
Does anybody have any experience with this, or
suggestions?
Pat Logue
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Cindy Strnad on tue 9 oct 01
Dear Pat,
1.) Yes, your glaze is soft. Unless the
"scratches" are not scratches but just marks like
chalk from dirty tile backs. If these are indoor
decorative wall tiles, I don't expect it matters
much. If they are meant for feet, you'll want a
very durable and somewhat matte (non-slippery)
glaze.
2.) There are many ways to do this. Here's one:
Mix your oxides/mason stains/whatever with a frit
such as ferro 3134--maybe half and
half--experiment--and something to make them
easier to brush, such as glycerin. This will work
on white clay but not very well on dark, in my
experience. Some of the colors (especially the
greens) will tend to be very refractory, so you'll
need to mix them with more frit and/or use a
thinner coat.
You'll probably want to cover this with a clear
glaze. Otherwise, some of your colors may not be
permanent. If the clear glaze pulls away from some
of your colors, you need to mix those colors with
more frit and/or apply them more thinly. Clear
glazes can sometimes affect the colors used under
them. If you're working with Mason stains, you can
get a list of ingredients which each stain either
requires or cannot tolerate. I recommend Tony
Hanson's Ultra-Clear. You can find it in his glaze
articles in the educational section of
http://www.digitalfire.com . I believe that's the
right address. If not, just do a search for
Insight Glaze Software. Tony warns that this glaze
is a bit soft, but I expect you're not planning to
install hand-panted tiles on the floor, so it
should work all right.
Best Wishes,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
cindy@earthen-vessels-pottery.com
http://www.earthen-vessels-pottery.com
Ron Roy on fri 12 oct 01
Hi Dawn,
Try raising the silica by 5 and 10 (silica 25 and silica 30) that will stop
the crazing and make the glaze more likley durable.
Test 500 grams first.
By the way - this glaze without the rutile and Zircopax has a low expansion
- anyone testing it should be aware this could be a problem.
RR
>I am teaching myself glazing and have tried Xavier Warm Jade Green. It is
>nice but when I look at the surface sideways in a light I can see teeny
>"pores"...not a slick surface like some glazes. I know this is not supposed
>to be a gloss glaze. Is this how a semi-mat is supposed to look? It is
>fired on a white clay (181). Also "Maple Syrup" Glaze looks the same (pores)
>and it is supposed to be glossier. Do I need to fire higher than cone 6?
>Now one other question...I tried "Butterscotch" on the inside of a cup and
>5x20 with Zir on the outside of a cup (181) and it is crazing and pinged for
>days! Also would this be a consideration for testinf for a food safe glaze
>if I could work out the crazing?
>BUTTERSCOTCH ^6 OX
>Frit 3134 20
>Dolomite 20
>Spodumene 20
>Ball Clay 20
>Flint 20
>+Titanium Dioxide 10
>Rutile 6
>
>Thanks for your help!
>Dawn in Tenn
Ron Roy
RR# 4
15084 Little Lake Rd..
Brighton,
Ontario, Canada
KOK 1H0
Residence 613-475-9544
Studio 613-475-3715
Fax 613-475-3513
Daraburn@AOL.COM on fri 12 oct 01
I am teaching myself glazing and have tried Xavier Warm Jade Green. It is
nice but when I look at the surface sideways in a light I can see teeny
"pores"...not a slick surface like some glazes. I know this is not supposed
to be a gloss glaze. Is this how a semi-mat is supposed to look? It is
fired on a white clay (181). Also "Maple Syrup" Glaze looks the same (pores)
and it is supposed to be glossier. Do I need to fire higher than cone 6?
Now one other question...I tried "Butterscotch" on the inside of a cup and
5x20 with Zir on the outside of a cup (181) and it is crazing and pinged for
days! Also would this be a consideration for testinf for a food safe glaze
if I could work out the crazing?
BUTTERSCOTCH ^6 OX
Frit 3134 20
Dolomite 20
Spodumene 20
Ball Clay 20
Flint 20
+Titanium Dioxide 10
Rutile 6
Thanks for your help!
Dawn in Tenn
Judith Marvin on thu 1 mar 07
Have searched the archives and don't find a difinitive answer. Is blackbird
a straight across substitute for barnard clay? Second, a recipe for an
aligator glaze I found in CM calls for the addition of 87% zircopax. Can
that be correct?
Thanks for your input!
Judith in snowy, beautiful Idaho
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Lois Ruben Aronow on thu 1 mar 07
Zircopax is an opacifier. That sounds weird, but heck, give it a go in a
small batch.
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Judith Marvin
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 6:12 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: glaze questions
Have searched the archives and don't find a difinitive answer. Is blackbird
a straight across substitute for barnard clay? Second, a recipe for an
aligator glaze I found in CM calls for the addition of 87% zircopax. Can
that be correct?
Thanks for your input!
Judith in snowy, beautiful Idaho
_________________________________________________________________
Win a ZuneT-make MSNR your homepage for your chance to win!
http://homepage.msn.com/zune?icid=hmetagline
____________________________________________________________________________
__
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Ron Roy on fri 2 mar 07
Hi Judith,
Blackbird and Barnard are different names for the same material.
It is a variable materials so it might apprear to be different if from
different lots.
RR
>Have searched the archives and don't find a difinitive answer. Is blackbir=
d
>a straight across substitute for barnard clay? Second, a recipe for an
>aligator glaze I found in CM calls for the addition of 87% zircopax. Can
>that be correct?
>
>Thanks for your input!
>
>Judith in snowy, beautiful Idaho
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Win a Zune=F4=F3make MSN=C6 your homepage for your chance to win!
>http://homepage.msn.com/zune?icid=3Dhmetagline
>
>___________________________________________________________________________=
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.=
com.
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
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