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acrylics and raku bisque

updated sat 28 mar 98

 

Roger Korn on fri 27 mar 98

Thought I'd reply to both at once:

Another fun thing for all you pyromaniacs: try spraying metallic paint
on the hot pot. I remove the pot from the kiln and place it on bricks on
a decorating wheel, give it a spin and start spraying. Hold the can well
in front of you because the burning solvent may flash back to the spray
can. Just drop it if it does. Very dramatic operation and very
interesting results. Spray for about 10 seconds and get the pot into the
reduction can fast! The flashing of the metallic over whatever the base
glaze was can be really interesting.
This is a hazardous procedure, so dress appropriately, have someone
manning an extinguisher, etc.
Be careful out there!

About bisque in a low mass fiber kiln: for a while, my raku kiln was my
only kiln. To control cooling rate, I'd throttle back the burner to slow
cooling all the way down to below the chrystobalite inversion point
(~900 F) before shutting the burner off and plugging everything up. A
bit of a hassle, but it works.

Steven, thanks for writing a great book (Raku: A Practical Approach).
Your advice has saved me from myself on numerous occasions.

Roger

You wrote:
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 10:43:46 EST
From: SBRANFPOTS
Subject: Firing with acrylic paint

----------------------------Original message----------------------------

I have experimented with this before. The organic material in the paint
will
burn away leaving the oxides. An interesting way to utilize acrylic
paint is
as a resist. Paint the acrylics, then glaze the pot over the acrylics as
you
would over wax resist. The results can be very interesting! Give it a
try!

Steven Branfman

-----------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 10:44:03 EST
From: SBRANFPOTS
Subject: Raku bisque

----------------------------Original message----------------------------

In response to the question posed about bisque firing in a raku kiln.
What is
a raku kiln anyway? It is simply a kiln designed for convenient
unloading of
ware while the kiln is hot. If the kiln is one built with a single layer
of
refractory fiber attached to a wire frame then the cooling will be too
fast to
safely bisque. There will likely be cracking and pot loss! If it is a
brick
kiln then you should be able to bisque fire just as you would in any
kiln. I
suggest that you seal up all peep holes, flue, burner port, and any
other
holes during the cooling cycle to slow it down as much as possible.

Steven Branfman

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