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garage/studio heating

updated fri 10 apr 98

 

clay&maxwell on sun 29 mar 98

Has anyone had any experience with insulating and heating a garage/studio?
I desperately need more space at home and want to convert the garage to a
studio but still park the cars in there at night! (It's a big double
garage and there is lots of room for the kiln, a work table and shelves) I
plan to insulate and have a furnace installed but I am concerned by the
potential loss of heat around the double garage door in winter. Is there
some kind of insulating material I can "drop down" to cover the garage door
when I am using the space as a studio? Have any of you experienced this
kind of "studio"? Any heating and insulating tips would be appreciated.
thanks
deb in Calgary where it is getting warmer but the nights are still frozen
cdmax@cadvision.com

Barbara Lewis on mon 30 mar 98

Deb, I too have moved into our two-car garage, but couldn't dream of fitting
the cars back in. It's too late for that. But I am also considering ways
of keeping the garage warmer in the winter. My two garage doors need to be
replaced and I will be getting an estimate soon for metal insulated garage
doors. Also, I have one exterior wall (in addition to the wall with the
garage doors) that is not insulated. The wall is cinder block (interior)
with a brick veneer (exterior). I feel that if we framed out the wall and
installed insulation it would probably help keep the garage warmer. The
floor is cement. I have a forced air, electric heater suspended from the
ceiling. I know it is probably the most expensive type of heat, but I
didn't want to take up floor space with a kerosene heater. I thought it
might present a fire hazard because as it is I seem to be knocking into
things as I move about the studio. The room above the garage is a heated
family room. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Barbara

At 01:43 PM 3/29/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Has anyone had any experience with insulating and heating a garage/studio?
>I desperately need more space at home and want to convert the garage to a
>studio but still park the cars in there at night! (It's a big double
>garage and there is lots of room for the kiln, a work table and shelves) I
>plan to insulate and have a furnace installed but I am concerned by the
>potential loss of heat around the double garage door in winter. Is there
>some kind of insulating material I can "drop down" to cover the garage door
>when I am using the space as a studio? Have any of you experienced this
>kind of "studio"? Any heating and insulating tips would be appreciated.
>thanks
>deb in Calgary where it is getting warmer but the nights are still frozen
>cdmax@cadvision.com
>

WellSpring ClayWorks
5412 Well Spring Road
La Plata, MD 20646
(301) 932-3915

TERRAOPERA on mon 30 mar 98

I have large windows in my studio that are glorious most of the time but in
the coldest times I cover them with sheets of foamboard .I purchased the
foamboard at the hardware store, it's cheap, sturdy, and light weight. I have
been using the same sheets for 8 yrs.and they really keep out the drafts. I
thought you could use them to cover your garage doors because they would be
easy to move when it's time to bring the car in.

Dwiggins, Sandra on tue 31 mar 98

I'm interested in this because I, too, have large windows on my porch and they
aren't double insulated. I was thinking of using heavy plastic during the
winter months, on rollers, so I can roll them up out of sight in the summer.
Do you mean that you completely close all the natural light out of your studio
with the foamboard over the windows, or do you have some other tricks to get
natural light during the cold months?

Sandy

MJBURK on tue 31 mar 98

In a message dated 98-03-30 09:15:00 EST, you write:

<< Deb, I too have moved into our two-car garage, but couldn't dream of
fitting the cars back in. It's too late for that. But I am also considering
ways of keeping the garage warmer in the winter. >>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
HI Deb, Someone suggested to us (that is if you have a automatic
garagedoor opener) we do, and they both open up at the same time. Since we
only use one side for my jeep, someone said to make it where only one side
opens. Hence less cold air gets in, not much, but every little bit will help.
Just a thought. Mj
Hi Mishy, Welcome back :-D

Kenneth D. Westfall on tue 31 mar 98

Deb
I would look into some insulated garage doors. You can get them with
two to three inches of foam insulation and the new steel doors will close
better than the old wood style doors.
Kenneth D. Westfall
Pine Hill Pottery
RD#2 Box 6AA
Harrisville, WV 26362
pinehill@ruralnet.org

DON'T GET STUCK IN THE MUDPIES--K & T

KLeSueur on wed 1 apr 98


In a message dated 3/30/98 9:14:49 AM, you wrote:

<the cars back in. It's too late for that. But I am also considering ways
of keeping the garage warmer in the winter. My two garage doors need to be
replaced and I will be getting an estimate soon for metal insulated garage
doors. Also, I have one exterior wall (in addition to the wall with the
garage doors) that is not insulated. The wall is cinder block (interior)
with a brick veneer (exterior). I feel that if we framed out the wall and
installed insulation it would probably help keep the garage warmer. The
floor is cement. I have a forced air, electric heater suspended from the
ceiling. >>

A less expensive way to deal with the heat loss out the garage doors without
replacing them is to make panels with 1/2" plywood backed up by 1" blue
construction styrofoam. Attach the foam to the panels with construction
adhesive. Tack a 1 x 3 all round the door frame and screw the panels to it.
Trim off the edges with weatherstripping designed for doors and you're all
set.

As for heating that studio, if you aren't going to use your garage for parking
your cars and have gas available, you might look into a vent-through-the-wall
gas heater. I bought a small one from Sears in 1988 and have never had trouble
with it. It takes very little wall space and I installed it myself. Mine is
not force air, but it is available. I didn't want dust blowing around in the
studio and heat drafts.

Kathi LeSueur

Laurel Carey on wed 1 apr 98

Barbara Lewis wrote:

(snip)

> floor is cement. I have a forced air, electric heater suspended from the
> ceiling. I know it is probably the most expensive type of heat, but I
> didn't want to take up floor space with a kerosene heater. I thought it
> might present a fire hazard because as it is I seem to be knocking into
> things as I move about the studio.

(more snip)

I am also going through a "winterizing the garage for studio" thing. I
was considering a Monitor kerosene heater. I had one in a house I
rented before, and I really liked it. It was about the size of a large
(but not gigantic) suitcase, and sat next to the wall, about 4" away.
It blows the hot air out the front. It is vented directly outside,
through the wall. The only holes in the wall are this (2-3"? approx)
vent, and the fuel line. You install an outdoor tank. The one I had
was equipped with a computer controller, so you could have it turn
itself on before you went out there, hold a different temp during the
night, etc.

No connection to the company, I just used one before and liked it.
Liked the size of the thing especially.

Laurel Carey
lacarey@ioa.com
Asheville, NC
USA

Werner Schink on wed 1 apr 98

Sandy, Here in Sacramento the weather is pretty temperate but I have
jalosie (sp?) windows which don't provide much protection. Regular
storm windows are more expensive than I wanted to pay so what I did was
get sheets of plexiglass which fit behind the screens. I use longer
screws than the original screen holders and it works quite well. I
store inside and protected during warmer weather and they still look
good after quite a few years.

Listening to Sade in Sacramento, Werner


Dwiggins, Sandra wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I'm interested in this because I, too, have large windows on my porch and
> they
> aren't double insulated. I was thinking of using heavy plastic during the
> winter months, on rollers, so I can roll them up out of sight in the
summer.
> Do you mean that you completely close all the natural light out of your
> studio
> with the foamboard over the windows, or do you have some other tricks to
get
> natural light during the cold months?
>
> Sandy

wehrman on thu 2 apr 98

Has anyone had any experience with infra -red heating? What are the costs,
problems, benefits?

MJBURK on thu 2 apr 98

In a message dated 98-04-01 08:27:41 EST, you write:

<< A less expensive way to deal with the heat loss out the garage doors
without replacing them is to make panels with 1/2" plywood backed up by 1"
blue construction styrofoam. Attach the foam to the panels with construction
adhesive. Tack a 1 x 3 all round the door frame and screw the panels to it.
Trim off the edges with weatherstripping designed for doors and you're all
set. >>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~``
If your or anyone is thinking about using the styro-foam idea.
I have a idea which would save some money.
My husband works for a hot springs spa place ( hot tubs) They sometimes
throw away the lids. Some of them are quite big 7' x 7', some even bigger I
believe.
Some are covered in vynil (?) plastic and then sometimes they've ripped that
part off. It kills me to see it thrown away.
My husband also used some for his hand crossbow as a back drop target.
My neighbor used ALOT of it for the addition he was building onto his house.
I'm going to use some as a floor for my kids outside playhouse.
I would think it could be used for tumbling too, if your kids are into that.
He said it sometimes get water-logged, but if you take the plastic off, it
will evenually dry out. (It's he-a-v-y when wet)
You might want to call and ask or from what I hear... once it's in the trash
it's fair game. It's not a everyday process, but I would just cruise all
the spa store's and pile it up. Just a recycling tip, plus you can save
money and time I would think since it's one big piece. Some fold in half too.
Mj

hasebeh on thu 2 apr 98

Hi, I am considering to use my two car garage as a studio.
I tried a propane forced air heater attached with a thamostat, and find myself
very uncomfortabe. It smells bad and dangerous, cabon momoxide and a timing of
heat kick-on. I wound up opening a garage door a bit. It works for a short run,
though.

I am interested in the wall through gas heater you mentioned. for the next
winter. Kathi, do you know a capacity of your heater in terms of BTU? (I assum
you have two car garage).

Thanks

Hodaka Hasebe
hasebeh@eznet.net



KLeSueur wrote:

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> In a message dated 3/30/98 9:14:49 AM, you wrote:
>
> <> the cars back in. It's too late for that. But I am also considering ways
> of keeping the garage warmer in the winter. My two garage doors need to be
> replaced and I will be getting an estimate soon for metal insulated garage
> doors. Also, I have one exterior wall (in addition to the wall with the
> garage doors) that is not insulated. The wall is cinder block (interior)
> with a brick veneer (exterior). I feel that if we framed out the wall and
> installed insulation it would probably help keep the garage warmer. The
> floor is cement. I have a forced air, electric heater suspended from the
> ceiling. >>
>
> A less expensive way to deal with the heat loss out the garage doors without
> replacing them is to make panels with 1/2" plywood backed up by 1" blue
> construction styrofoam. Attach the foam to the panels with construction
> adhesive. Tack a 1 x 3 all round the door frame and screw the panels to it.
> Trim off the edges with weatherstripping designed for doors and you're all
> set.
>
> As for heating that studio, if you aren't going to use your garage for parking
> your cars and have gas available, you might look into a vent-through-the-wall
> gas heater. I bought a small one from Sears in 1988 and have never had trouble
> with it. It takes very little wall space and I installed it myself. Mine is
> not force air, but it is available. I didn't want dust blowing around in the
> studio and heat drafts.
>
> Kathi LeSueur

Don Jones on thu 2 apr 98

I insulated my garage with styryfoam panels and used my kiln to heat it up
on throwing and trimming days. On firing days I open one of the doors to
let in fresh air and the firing heats up the garage nicely for throwing
without dying from the fumes.

Don Jones
claysky@highfiber.com
:-) implied in all messages and replies
http://highfiber.com/~claysky

JLHclay on fri 3 apr 98

Great Idea on re cycling hot tub lids for insulation. My dad a serious bike
guy collected the large hunks of Styrofoam used to ship bikes & lined the
ceiling & walls of his workshop. The deep shapes cut down the noise of
equipment as well as insulated the walls & ceiling. JOY in soggy Tucson. I
was thinking of a trip to northern California but it looks like the weather
came here for me instead.

Stephen Mills on fri 3 apr 98

As a generally aimed 2 pennyworth:
the type of gas heater which is safest to use in a workshop is known as
a "Balanced Flue" heater. These take their air supply from outside the
building and vent the exhaust gas outside as well, they do this through
a "single hole in the wall" unit, designed so that the two functions
don't get mixed. This ensures that in a tightly closed room in midwinter
there is no oxygen depletion in the room and no carbon monoxide addition
either.

Steve
Bath
UK



In message , hasebeh writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi, I am considering to use my two car garage as a studio.
>I tried a propane forced air heater attached with a thamostat, and find myself
>very uncomfortabe. It smells bad and dangerous, cabon momoxide and a timing of
>heat kick-on. I wound up opening a garage door a bit. It works for a short run
>though.
>
>I am interested in the wall through gas heater you mentioned. for the next
>winter. Kathi, do you know a capacity of your heater in terms of BTU? (I assu
>you have two car garage).
>
>Thanks
>
>Hodaka Hasebe
>hasebeh@eznet.net
>
>
>
>KLeSueur wrote:
>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>
>> In a message dated 3/30/98 9:14:49 AM, you wrote:
>>
>> <>> the cars back in. It's too late for that. But I am also considering ways
>> of keeping the garage warmer in the winter. My two garage doors need to be
>> replaced and I will be getting an estimate soon for metal insulated garage
>> doors. Also, I have one exterior wall (in addition to the wall with the
>> garage doors) that is not insulated. The wall is cinder block (interior)
>> with a brick veneer (exterior). I feel that if we framed out the wall and
>> installed insulation it would probably help keep the garage warmer. The
>> floor is cement. I have a forced air, electric heater suspended from the
>> ceiling. >>
>>
>> A less expensive way to deal with the heat loss out the garage doors without
>> replacing them is to make panels with 1/2" plywood backed up by 1" blue
>> construction styrofoam. Attach the foam to the panels with construction
>> adhesive. Tack a 1 x 3 all round the door frame and screw the panels to it.
>> Trim off the edges with weatherstripping designed for doors and you're all
>> set.
>>
>> As for heating that studio, if you aren't going to use your garage for parkin
>> your cars and have gas available, you might look into a vent-through-the-wall
>> gas heater. I bought a small one from Sears in 1988 and have never had troubl
>> with it. It takes very little wall space and I installed it myself. Mine is
>> not force air, but it is available. I didn't want dust blowing around in the
>> studio and heat drafts.
>>
>> Kathi LeSueur
>

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk

Marley Wolhud on sun 5 apr 98

I am also concerned about this issue. I have framed out half of the two
car garage and installed a propane heater. I find this works fine, but
we haven't really had a cold winter (thank you El Nino) in the
Northeast. Next year, assuming all returns to normal, I am concerned
about the affect the weather may have on the clay and glazes if I don't
work for a few days. The room will be closed off completely, but I
really don't want to keep the heater going constantly if I am not in
there. $$$.

Marley Wolhud on sun 5 apr 98

I am also concerned about this issue. I have framed out half of the two
car garage and installed a propane heater. I find this works fine, but
we haven't really had a cold winter (thank you El Nino) in the
Northeast. Next year, assuming all returns to normal, I am concerned
about the affect the weather may have on the clay and glazes if I don't
work for a few days. The room will be closed off completely, but I
really don't want to keep the heater going constantly if I am not in
there. $$$.

CaraMox on mon 6 apr 98

At the urging of the landlord, the artists in my warehouse studio all use
propane tanks with a burner for heating. I have been told it isn't safe, fire
and carbon monoxide possibilities, but it keeps the studio warmer cheaper than
electric heaters. And gassing ourselves isn't a problem since wonderful New
Orleans builders don't believe in sealing anything, or insulating anything.
(and toasted marshmallows on cold and clammy nights are a plus) Surprisingly,
it does get chilly down here, but it only lasts three or four months.

If you're building a studio, I would suggest something facing south, so you
get the sun in winter and not in summer. A little natural heating. And my
favorite heaters of all time have been the radiators in England. And you can
use them to dry your pots.

Cara
hot on Friday and cold today.

Dai Scott on mon 6 apr 98

Hi, Marley - I also had a garage-studio at one time, and after having
insufficient heat in there one winter night, decided I'd rather pay the heat
bill than slam and wedge boxes and boxes of clay that had been frozen! The
pots I had thrown the day before were also an interesting contribution to
the recycle pail. My advice is: have a thermostatically-controlled heater
in your studio - it doesn't have to pump out all sorts of heat when you're
not there, but it should keep things from freezing up. Good luck!
Dai Scott - Pottery by Dai in Kelowna, B.C., Canada, where it is just zbout
golf weather! If I had time to golf, that it.

At 11:28 AM 4/5/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I am also concerned about this issue. I have framed out half of the two
>car garage and installed a propane heater. I find this works fine, but
>we haven't really had a cold winter (thank you El Nino) in the
>Northeast. Next year, assuming all returns to normal, I am concerned
>about the affect the weather may have on the clay and glazes if I don't
>work for a few days. The room will be closed off completely, but I
>really don't want to keep the heater going constantly if I am not in
>there. $$$.
>
>

Randy O'Brien on tue 7 apr 98

Concerning heating a studio. There are two brand names of efficent oil
burning stoves out there. They are called Monitor and Toyo Stoves. The
intial cost is high ,around a $1000, and a oil reservoir is needed.
Once there are up and running they burn at most a gallon of fuel a day ,
on a moderately chilly day. They can be programed to come on at a
desinated time and temp, its a beautiful thing to walk into a warm
studio. They are very compact, 1'x1'x3'. Then if you are leaving for
a extended period of time they can be set at a low temp. to keep things
from freezing. Also they do require electricity and if the power does go
out they have a low temp setting to program themselves when the power
returns. The best place to look for them would probably be through a
home heating business . Good luck.

bokar on thu 9 apr 98

wehrman wrote:

> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> Has anyone had any experience with infra -red heating? What are the
> costs,
> problems, benefits?

My studio has a zone heating system with infra-red bulbs and a heat
exchanger,which recycles heated air. It uses 120 volt current, using
1500 watts and
produces approximately 5000 BTUs. It works rather well and no danger
of asphyxiation. It heats about 400-500 sq. ft.

Bo in Missouri