Michelle H. Lowe on sun 5 apr 98
Hi friends,
I am thinking I will sand down and re-varnish the wooden table attached to
my Soldner wheel. I vaguely recall reading in the book that came with it,
something about which varnish works best, but I'm between now and when I
read it, I've moved my entire house and studio 1300 miles and back (we
moved from Az to Nebraska for two years), and I am not sure where that
little booklet might be.
So I thought I would ask my "collective-cyber-brain" and see what you guys
might suggest as to the best varnish or coating to put on natural wood (I
think it's maple or pine) to render it relatively waterproof and durable
for a few more years.
Thanks :-)
Mishy, who also needs to put on her electrician's hat and take a look at
her e-kiln wiring *sigh*
Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
mishlowe@indirect.com -O- | |
mishlowe@aztec.asu.edu /|\ | | |
|_|_|
http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe ____ |
-\ /-----|-----
( )
<__>
Wendy Moore on mon 6 apr 98
Mishy:
I was told to varnish the wooden surrounding my fixtures in the bathroom with
marine varnish...the kind they use on boats. Should work on around your
wheel. The varnish is a little tricky to use as a "do-it-yourselfer" but not
impossible. Hope this helps!
Wendy Moore, the Apron Lady
in Sunny, but Frosty Michigan.....go figure!
Michelle H. Lowe wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi friends,
> I am thinking I will sand down and re-varnish the wooden table attached to
> my Soldner wheel. I vaguely recall reading in the book that came with it,
> something about which varnish works best, but I'm between now and when I
> read it, I've moved my entire house and studio 1300 miles and back (we
> moved from Az to Nebraska for two years), and I am not sure where that
> little booklet might be.
>
> So I thought I would ask my "collective-cyber-brain" and see what you guys
> might suggest as to the best varnish or coating to put on natural wood (I
> think it's maple or pine) to render it relatively waterproof and durable
> for a few more years.
>
> Thanks :-)
>
> Mishy, who also needs to put on her electrician's hat and take a look at
> her e-kiln wiring *sigh*
>
> Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
> mishlowe@indirect.com -O- | |
> mishlowe@aztec.asu.edu /|\ | | |
> |_|_|
> http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe ____ |
> -\ /-----|-----
> ( )
> <__>
Bill Aycock on mon 6 apr 98
Mishy- I dont know what Paul said to use, but I do know that a GOOD grade
of Marine Spar Varnish will take lots of abuse. I have used it on boats
(where it is walked on) on dining room tables (where the kids painted with
both acrylic and oil paints, and, lately after it was retired to the
studio- Iris has used it to do fabricc painting.
It is still in useable shape, after over thirty years of use.
Clean it well, first, sand it lightly to give it "tooth" and use several
coats. Be generous- which is what "flowing" it on means.
Plain old Spar is not good enough- use a MARINE grade (it even helps to
hold up to the sun)
Bill- working on a framing and matting room, on Persimmon Hill.
At 11:30 AM 4/5/98 EDT, you wrote: *** IN PART ***
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi friends,
>I am thinking I will sand down and re-varnish the wooden table attached to
>my Soldner wheel. I vaguely recall reading in the book that came with it,
>something about which varnish works best,
>
>Mishy, who also needs to put on her electrician's hat and take a look at
>her e-kiln wiring *sigh*
>
Bill Aycock --- Persimmon Hill
Woodville, Alabama, US 35776
(in the N.E. corner of the State)
W4BSG -- Grid EM64vr
baycock@HiWAAY.net
jetharrs@pacific.telebyte.net on mon 6 apr 98
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
----snippity do dah-----
>So I thought I would ask my "collective-cyber-brain" and see what you guys
>might suggest as to the best varnish or coating to put on natural wood (I
>think it's maple or pine) to render it relatively waterproof and durable
>for a few more years.
>Mishy, who also needs to put on her electrician's hat and take a look at
>her e-kiln wiring *sigh*
I swear by Varathane.
First you have to assure that the wood surface is clean and free of any
kind of oil or grease (a given, usually, in a clay studio--the grease/oil,
part that is) The trick with this stuff is to layer it on in thin coats,
allowing each coat to dry. I understand that the newer version can be
thinned with water, but best read the labels first. Anyway, the more thin
coats you can lay down, the tougher the stuff is.
We once refinished a dining room table using the non-water based Varathane.
We cut the solution about 1/4 with camping stove alcohol fuel and lightly
sanded between layers to create a tooth for the next layer. We must have
put about 5 layers down.
My son inherited the table when he got married. My daughter-in-law told me
a bike fell over sideways onto the table while they were in the process of
loading up a moving truck--the table had no pad on it--and didn't phase the
table one bit!
We've refinished wood floors too and they can be wet mopped after that.
Stephen Mills on mon 6 apr 98
Yacht Varnish, I have used it for several areas that are generally wet.
It should also stand the abrasion pretty well.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Michelle H. Lowe writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi friends,
>I am thinking I will sand down and re-varnish the wooden table attached to
>my Soldner wheel. I vaguely recall reading in the book that came with it,
>something about which varnish works best, but I'm between now and when I
>read it, I've moved my entire house and studio 1300 miles and back (we
>moved from Az to Nebraska for two years), and I am not sure where that
>little booklet might be.
>
>So I thought I would ask my "collective-cyber-brain" and see what you guys
>might suggest as to the best varnish or coating to put on natural wood (I
>think it's maple or pine) to render it relatively waterproof and durable
>for a few more years.
>
>Thanks :-)
>
>Mishy, who also needs to put on her electrician's hat and take a look at
>her e-kiln wiring *sigh*
>
>
>Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
>mishlowe@indirect.com -O- | |
>mishlowe@aztec.asu.edu /|\ | | |
> |_|_|
>http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe ____ |
> -\ /-----|-----
> ( )
> <__>
>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk
Chris Giorgetti on tue 7 apr 98
Michelle ... I've got several chainsaw sculptures that are finished with
marine varnish. (These started out as logs, but a genius with a chainsaw
turned them into wonderfu bears!) The outdoor sculptures made it through the
nasty California winter rains with no problem. Anything that survived that
has GOT to be good!!
Chris in the Bay Area where it's raining again today :(
Michelle H. Lowe wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi friends,
> I am thinking I will sand down and re-varnish the wooden table attached to
> my Soldner wheel. I vaguely recall reading in the book that came with it,
> something about which varnish works best, but I'm between now and when I
> read it, I've moved my entire house and studio 1300 miles and back (we
> moved from Az to Nebraska for two years), and I am not sure where that
> little booklet might be.
>
> So I thought I would ask my "collective-cyber-brain" and see what you guys
> might suggest as to the best varnish or coating to put on natural wood (I
> think it's maple or pine) to render it relatively waterproof and durable
> for a few more years.
>
> Thanks :-)
>
> Mishy, who also needs to put on her electrician's hat and take a look at
> her e-kiln wiring *sigh*
>
> Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
> mishlowe@indirect.com -O- | |
> mishlowe@aztec.asu.edu /|\ | | |
> |_|_|
> http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe ____ |
> -\ /-----|-----
> ( )
> <__>
GoodrichDn on tue 7 apr 98
Mishy,
Any of three options should work pretty well: marine varnish, tung oil, or
epoxy wood restorer. Marine varnish (spar varnish) will provide a durable,
shiny surface that ought to protect the wood adequately. Tung oil has to be
rubbed into the wood, but once it's there renders it relatively waterproof. If
there's already some varnish on the wood, the oil might not penetrate well.
Two-part epoxy resins are available that will soak into the wood, harden there
and render it impervious to most anything. They're expensive, but a little
goes a long way. Abatron, of Pleasant Prairie WI is a manufacturer of one such
product.
Hope this helps,
Don Goodrich in sunny (for once) Zion, Illinois
goodrichdn@aol.com
>So I thought I would ask my "collective-cyber-brain" and see what you guys
>might suggest as to the best varnish or coating to put on natural wood (I
>think it's maple or pine) to render it relatively waterproof and durable
>for a few more years.
Vince Pitelka on tue 7 apr 98
I have been so busy since I returned from NCECA that I have not followed
this thread at all, so I do not even know what the original request was.
I have tried every imaginable wood finish to find something which will
really stand up to repeated wetting and soaking in the ceramics studio.
This has been primarily in the context of wooden bats, but that is perhaps
the most severe duty a sealed wooden object could encounter in the studio.
For wooden bats, the medex waterproof particle board obviously works best.
But for all other applications, or to make bats without using medex, the
ONLY thing I have ever found which works long term is properly applied
MARINE SPAR VARNISH, as was suggested already by someone else. Whatever you
are making, do all your assembly, drilling, cutting, notching, beveling,
fitting, shaping, carving, etc. first. Remove all dust and dirt from the
surface. Thin the first coat of varnish 50% with proper mineral spirits.
Give the wood a good soaking coat, and let it dry completely, and sand
lightly, because the first few coats will raise the grain a little. Apply
the second coat full strength, and when completely dry, sand lightly.
Repeat two to four more times, depending on the anticipated abuse of the
surface or object. Give the surface a final light sanding with very fine
sandpaper or steel wool. You will end up with a beautiful and functional
satin surface which will last decades even in severe studio duty. Afterall,
the stuff is tried and true in marine service, and what could be more
demanding than that?
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
JLHclay on tue 7 apr 98
"Marine" varnishes are formulated to withstand fresh & salt water & sunlight.
Jlhclay@aol.com leaving to visit family & wondering how I'll get along
without clayart.
Carol Durnford on mon 13 apr 98
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------In
In regards to the marine spar varnish.
I know that regular spar varnish will not cure properly unless exposed to
ultra-violet light. That which is normally obtained through exposure to
sunshine, hence the its use on the exterior surfaces of doors etc.
Is this the same for Marine Spar Varnish????
>
Bill Aycock on tue 14 apr 98
Carol- This is the first time I have heard of a spar varnish that requires
UV to cure. Most are very susceptible to damage by UV, except the Marine
grades.
If you can find a can that says that, I would really like to get the info
on the brand and version. I have several places where I could use it.
Skeptical- on Persimmon Hill
At 09:52 AM 4/13/98 EDT, you wrote:
>
>In regards to the marine spar varnish.
>
>I know that regular spar varnish will not cure properly unless exposed to
>ultra-violet light. That which is normally obtained through exposure to
>sunshine, hence the its use on the exterior surfaces of doors etc.
>
>Is this the same for Marine Spar Varnish????
>>
>
>
Bill Aycock --- Persimmon Hill
Woodville, Alabama, US 35776
(in the N.E. corner of the State)
W4BSG -- Grid EM64vr
baycock@HiWAAY.net
| |
|
