Jonathan Kaplan on mon 13 apr 98
There are many commercial preparations available for parting compounds.
While it is possible to make your own, I sure don't have the time or
desire, especially when there are very economical products out there.
I've used most available parting compounds, and I remember making my own
from Fels Naptha soap. But for my money, the best stuff I have used to part
plaster to plaster, rubber from plaster, etc is "Polyurethane Parting
Compound" or PUP, available from Permaflex in Columbus Ohio.
Try it, you'll like it!
Jonathan
Jonathan Kaplan http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign/
http://www.ceramicsoftware.com/education/clay/kaplan1.htm
jonathan@csn.net
Ceramic Design Group Ltd./Production Services Voice:
970-879-9139 POB 775112
FAXmodem: same
Steamboat Springs, Colorado 80477, USA CALL before faxing
Plant Location: 1280 13th Street unit#13 Steamboat Springs Co 80487
(please use this address for all UPS, courier, and common carrier
shipments)
Ross Hartman on thu 16 apr 98
to: Jonathan and all;
pmfji, but
I would like to ask if anyone knows where to get the mold soap that we used to b
years ago in 5 gallon pails, then mix with water for use. There may be some
synthetics that work but for many reasons related to old fashioned methodologies
would like to find out if anyone is still manufacturing this stuff.
I am a mold maker and I have not been active for many years but I am trying to
find suppliers for all the stuff I need, mold soap being one of the hardest to
find, Ithink.
I know that it is a stearic acid compound probably an early (in the process)
by-product of the rendering process, this compound probably being a pre-cursor t
other kinds of more refined commercial soaps.
I have very specific reasons for using this compound and I have never found
anything that replaces it.
Thanks to anyone who can help.
L8R/Ross
Jonathan Kaplan wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> There are many commercial preparations available for parting compounds.
> While it is possible to make your own, I sure don't have the time or
> desire, especially when there are very economical products out there.
>
> I've used most available parting compounds, and I remember making my own
> from Fels Naptha soap. But for my money, the best stuff I have used to part
> plaster to plaster, rubber from plaster, etc is "Polyurethane Parting
> Compound" or PUP, available from Permaflex in Columbus Ohio.
>
> Try it, you'll like it!
>
> Jonathan
>
> Jonathan Kaplan http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign/
>
> http://www.ceramicsoftware.com/education/clay/kaplan1.htm
>
> jonathan@csn.net
> Ceramic Design Group Ltd./Production Services Voice:
> 970-879-9139 POB 775112
> FAXmodem: same
> Steamboat Springs, Colorado 80477, USA CALL before faxin
>
> Plant Location: 1280 13th Street unit#13 Steamboat Springs Co 80487
> (please use this address for all UPS, courier, and common carrier
> shipments)
Marni Turkel on sun 19 apr 98
Ross,
I have been buying Soap Parting Compound from Perma-Flex (the same company
that sells PUP/Polyurethane Parting Compound) for about 8 years and find it
superior to any other mold soap I have tried. I like it enough to pay the
shipping from Ohio to California and consider myself lucky to have
discovered it. I was orginally referred to them by a technical advisor at
U.S. Gypsum when I was having trouble with plaster sticking to plaster with
the mold soap I was buying from my ceramic supplier. Their soap is
available in 1 gallon or 5 gallon containers. I use it as it comes from the
container, not diluted. For some things I also use the PUP, which is a form
of soap. The people at Perma-Flex have been wonderful to deal with and
willing to take any amount of time necessary to explain their products as I
learned mold making by trial and error. They have an 800 number for
ordering, but if you have technical questions call them at 614-252-8034.
Marni Turkel
Ross Hartman wrote:
>I would like to ask if anyone knows where to get the mold soap that we
>used to b
>years ago in 5 gallon pails, then mix with water for use. There may be some
>synthetics that work but for many reasons related to old fashioned
>methodologies
>would like to find out if anyone is still manufacturing this stuff.
>
>I am a mold maker and I have not been active for many years but I am trying to
>find suppliers for all the stuff I need, mold soap being one of the hardest to
>find, Ithink.
>
>I know that it is a stearic acid compound probably an early (in the process)
>by-product of the rendering process, this compound probably being a
>pre-cursor t
>other kinds of more refined commercial soaps.
>
>I have very specific reasons for using this compound and I have never found
>anything that replaces it.
>
>Thanks to anyone who can help.
>
>L8R/Ross
>
>Jonathan Kaplan wrote:
>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> There are many commercial preparations available for parting compounds.
>> While it is possible to make your own, I sure don't have the time or
>> desire, especially when there are very economical products out there.
>>
>> I've used most available parting compounds, and I remember making my own
>> from Fels Naptha soap. But for my money, the best stuff I have used to part
>> plaster to plaster, rubber from plaster, etc is "Polyurethane Parting
>> Compound" or PUP, available from Permaflex in Columbus Ohio.
>>
>> Try it, you'll like it!
>>
>> Jonathan
>>
>> Jonathan Kaplan http://www.sni.net/ceramicdesign/
Marni Turkel
Stony Point Ceramic Design
Sonoma County, California
C. A. Sanger on thu 28 jan 99
Get a copy of the "Clay Lover's Guide to Making Molds" by Peirce
Clayton. It's concise, easy to read, and not real technical. Per this
text, bisque requires FIVE thin coats of soapy release. (You can make
your own release of 50% water and 50% commercial oil soap found in the
housecleaning aisle of your supermarket.) DO NOT use vaseline or other
greasy agents. It will clog the plaster's pores, making casting
impossible. As for pouring the second half, that occurs after the first
half cools and has been cleaned and dressed. You also make the mold
registration impressions then. Then apply two coats of soapy release to
the plaster of the first half. (Be sure you let coats of soap dry
before putting on the next.) After the second sets up, carefully
separate the pieces, clean the second half, remove the model.
Reassemble the two halves tightly with a mold band and set aside to dry
for a couple days. (If dried separately, they may warp and not fit
together.) Don't forget to talc (commercial talc, or ordinary talcum
powder) the mold with a small bristle brush, gently, before casting.
Ditmar on sat 8 dec 01
There's a reaction with the calcium in plaster when you use mold soaps. =
Depending on the soap used, calcium stearate, napthenate, palmitate, =
etc.(calcium "soap") is formed. Basically the same stuff as hard water =
shower scum or a bathtub ring. Unlike the sodium or potassium soaps, =
calcium soaps are insoluble and form a film or thin layer that acts like =
a release. Chemically a distant cousin to bearing grease.=20
Lye has no real bearing on why soaps do what they do. If you're using a =
good soap, there shouldn't be any lye left in it.
Ditmar
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