Jan Wax on wed 22 apr 98
I have always dipped or poured glazes, and am considering buying spray
equipment. What do people recommend?
Jan
Talbott on thu 23 apr 98
If you want the "Best" then I recommend a Pasche' sprayer and a two stage
Emglo air compressor. Do some research and get a compressor model that
puts out enough volume. Axner's is one source for the sprayers and Tool
Crib of the North is a source for the compressor.. Scott Creek makes a good
spray booth. (I think that name is correct).. ....Marshall
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have always dipped or poured glazes, and am considering buying spray
>equipment. What do people recommend?
>Jan
http://www.PotteryInfo.com
101 CLAYART MUGS (Summer 1998)
2ND ANNUAL CLAYARTERS' GALLERY - NAPLES, MAINE (Summer 1998)
E-MAIL ME FOR APPLICATIONS
Celia & Marshall Talbott, Pottery By Celia, Route 114, P O Box 4116,
Naples, Maine 04055-4116,(207)693-6100 voice and fax,(call first)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Jan Wax on thu 23 apr 98
Scrolling down PAST the registration page in the archives,BELOW the most
recent postings, I found access to past discussions about spray equipment
and was happy to find answers to most of my questions.(I'll get the hang of
this yet!) I'm going to look for a "Critter" sprayer, if I can't find one
of Vince's favorite Campbell-Hausfield's cheapos. Or maybe I'll try to
spring for an HVLP. I don't think I'll try the vacuum cleaner route. My old
Kirby might explode.
What I didn't find much about was compressors. Are they rated for output?
Vince mentioned 20 or 30 psi that some spray guns require. I would imagine
that compressors come in different sizes? Are used ones usually reliable?
What about buying one through a catalog? (I live in a rural area - 425
people in my town. No shopping malls). I'm not going to worry about a spray
booth yet with summer on the way. I can spray outside. However, I was
intrigued with Richard Aerni's detailed instructions on building one
cheaply. Later.
Jan
jjcat on fri 24 apr 98
If you want the best, use what the professional auto spray shops use....
BINKS!!!
At 07:37 AM 4/23/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>If you want the "Best" then I recommend a Pasche' sprayer and a two stage
>Emglo air compressor. Do some research and get a compressor model that
>puts out enough volume. Axner's is one source for the sprayers and Tool
>Crib of the North is a source for the compressor.. Scott Creek makes a good
>spray booth. (I think that name is correct).. ....Marshall
>
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>I have always dipped or poured glazes, and am considering buying spray
>>equipment. What do people recommend?
>>Jan
>
> http://www.PotteryInfo.com
>
> 101 CLAYART MUGS (Summer 1998)
> 2ND ANNUAL CLAYARTERS' GALLERY - NAPLES, MAINE (Summer 1998)
> E-MAIL ME FOR APPLICATIONS
>
> Celia & Marshall Talbott, Pottery By Celia, Route 114, P O Box 4116,
> Naples, Maine 04055-4116,(207)693-6100 voice and fax,(call first)
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Vince Pitelka on fri 24 apr 98
>What I didn't find much about was compressors. Are they rated for output?
>Vince mentioned 20 or 30 psi that some spray guns require. I would imagine
>that compressors come in different sizes? Are used ones usually reliable?
>What about buying one through a catalog? (I live in a rural area - 425
>people in my town. No shopping malls).
Jan -
The 20 to 30 PSI refers to the pressure you set on a standard pressure
regulator, which will be an included attachment on any good-quality
compressor. Otherwise you will need to get an accessory pressure regulator.
There are several things to look for if you want a compressor which will do
multiple duty. No reason to buy one which will work for only one purpose.
Get one with at least a 2 HP motor and an output of at least 6 CFM (cubic
feet per minute) at 100 lbs pressure. Get one with a good-sized tank - at
least ten gallon. And make sure it has an automatic pressure switch, so
that whenever you have the thing plugged in, the motor starts automatically
when the pressure drops below a preset level, usually around 75 PSI. It
then shuts off when the pressure reaches 90 to 100 PSI. You can locate the
compressor in a peripheral room or closet, and run an air hose to where you
are working, so you do not have to listen to it.
If you want this to be a lifetime compressor, get one with cast iron
cylinders. The crankcase and/or cylilnder head can be aluminum, but the
cylinder itself, where all the piston friction is, should be cast iron. At
Lowe's (big home improvement center in this part of the country) the other
day, I was appalled to see that NONE of the compressors they carried, even
the most expensive ones, had cast iron cylinders. That has always been one
of the fundamental things to look for in good compressors. All the heavy
industrial compressors have cast iron cylinders. Campbell Hausfield makes
good-quality, reasonably priced small compressors, including a "cast iron"
line which all have cast iron cylinders.
Personally, I do not like direct drive "oil-less" compressors, where the
compressor is mounted directly on the output shaft of the motor. I think
you have far more options when there is a belt drive between motor and
compressor. Some people avoid this setup, thinking that a direct drive will
be lower maintenance, but the opposite is true. The direct drive ones turn
the compressor much more quickly, which causes far more wear and tear, and
with all the added heat and friction the compressor barrels must be
aluminum, to dissipate the heat more quickly. The cast iron compressors
usually have larger displacement, turn more slowly, and last almost
indefinitely in studio use. I bought my Campbell Hausfield at
Montgomery-Ward in Eureka, CA around 1975, and I have never done ANYTHING to
it except bleed off the condensation in the tank, clean the air filter, and
occasionally change the compressor oil. It has inflated a zillion tires and
balls, painted quite a few cars, cleaned out lots of carbeuretors and other
devices, operated a wide variety of air tools, and sprayed a great deal of
glaze.
I would not buy a used compressor unless it was a known brand, and had cast
iron compressor cylinder.
Good tools are a joy, especially when they perform perfectly for decades
under heavy use.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Vince Pitelka on sat 25 apr 98
>If you want the best, use what the professional auto spray shops use....
>
>BINKS!!!
I must disagree with the above. In most cases, I believe in getting the
very highest quality tool available for the job. But the Binks spraygun is
made for spraying gritless non-abrasive liquids. It will work on glazes, by
why subject it to that, when there are FAR LESS EXPENSIVE sprayguns which
will do as good a job. See my post from a month ago recommending the
inexpensive guns made in Taiwan/China/Korea sprayguns. They work great for
glazes, as does the "critter," which is available from many ceramic
suppliers. And as I also mentioned in my earlier post about sprayguns, if
you are worried about quality control, call around and see who carries
Campbell Hausfield compressors and attachments. They purchase inexpensive
but good quality East Asian sprayguns and repackage them under their name
and sell them for a very reasonable price. They have all the same controls
as a Binks gun costing four times as much.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
| |
|
