Sue Hintz on thu 7 may 98
I'm just starting to learn about underglazes. The goal is to get a watercolor
look. I want to put it on greenware. I've been doing some reading on it and
have learned that underglazes are waterbased. The price of commercial seems
high compared to the possibility of making my own.
One book says to make a CMC/ water mixture and add stains or oxides to it. But
goes on to say make only enough for use at one sitting--not ideal. I haven't
heard any conversation on this topic on the list so I'd like to hear what some
of you do and a formala for underglazes. I haven't used CMC gum so I don't
know what it is used for--sounds like it hardens things. Where can glyceron
play a roll in all of this? Gosh, any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm
all excited about the possibilities. Thanks!
Joseph A. Troncale, M.D. on fri 8 may 98
Dear Sue,
I do not claim to be the underglaze expert, but I have tried a number of =
things
with varying results. A lot depends on what type of clay you are using. Do =
you
use low fire or stoneware? Anyway, I use mostly stoneware, and I have used
several things for underglaze.
1. I have used overglaze which I have diluted slightly. Just be careful as =
when
you bisque anything with glaze it must be kept apart from the other ware in =
the
kiln.
2. I have used thin slip with colorants added. It adds texture if you like =
that
sort of thing.
3. I have used commercial low-fire glazes.
4. I think there is a lot more flexibility with doing combinations of the =
above
which I have never tried.
Hope this is helpful.
Joe Troncale, M.D.
New Holland, PA
-----Original Message-----
From: Sue Hintz =5BSMTP:SHINTZ=40unca.edu=5D
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 1998 8:35 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: how to create my own underglazes
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I'm just starting to learn about underglazes. The goal is to get a =
watercolor
look. I want to put it on greenware. I've been doing some reading on it =
and
have learned that underglazes are waterbased. The price of commercial seems
high compared to the possibility of making my own.
One book says to make a CMC/ water mixture and add stains or oxides to it. =
But
goes on to say make only enough for use at one sitting--not ideal. I =
haven't
heard any conversation on this topic on the list so I'd like to hear what =
some
of you do and a formala for underglazes. I haven't used CMC gum so I don't
know what it is used for--sounds like it hardens things. Where can glyceron
play a roll in all of this? Gosh, any help would be greatly appreciated. =
I'm
all excited about the possibilities. Thanks=21
John Kimpton Dellow on fri 8 may 98
Sue Hintz wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I'm just starting to learn about underglazes. The goal is to get a watercolor
> look. I want to put it on greenware. I've been doing some reading on it and
> have learned that underglazes are waterbased. The price of commercial seems
> high compared to the possibility of making my own.
>
> One book says to make a CMC/ water mixture and add stains or oxides to it. Bu
> goes on to say make only enough for use at one sitting--not ideal. I haven't
> heard any conversation on this topic on the list so I'd like to hear what some
> of you do and a formala for underglazes. I haven't used CMC gum so I don't
> know what it is used for--sounds like it hardens things. Where can glyceron
> play a roll in all of this? Gosh, any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm
> all excited about the possibilities. Thanks!
Try to get a copy of "Ceramic Colours & Pottery Decoration "
by Kenneth Shaw,published by MaClaren & Sons Ltd.London.
This was first published in 1962, mine is a 1968 reprint.
Stephen Mills on fri 8 may 98
CMC is an organic polymer, it has the ability to slow down drying,hence
its use in brush-on glazes. Because it's organic it goes "off" fairly
quickly. The cure (which we use with our own BPS brush-ons) is to lace
the mix with a small amount of formalin based antiseptic. They last
longer after that, guaranteed shelf life 6 months.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Sue Hintz writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I'm just starting to learn about underglazes. The goal is to get a watercolor
>look. I want to put it on greenware. I've been doing some reading on it and
>have learned that underglazes are waterbased. The price of commercial seems
>high compared to the possibility of making my own.
>
>One book says to make a CMC/ water mixture and add stains or oxides to it. But
>goes on to say make only enough for use at one sitting--not ideal. I haven't
>heard any conversation on this topic on the list so I'd like to hear what some
>of you do and a formala for underglazes. I haven't used CMC gum so I don't
>know what it is used for--sounds like it hardens things. Where can glyceron
>play a roll in all of this? Gosh, any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm
>all excited about the possibilities. Thanks!
>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk
Fay & Ralph Loewenthal on fri 8 may 98
Dear Sue, my wife instructs me as follows: You take the
stain or oxide, she uses stains mostly, and mix it into the
following mixture, then water it down till you get your water
colour effect. This mixture is from some kind person on
Clayart who said that this is what Mason Stains have been
using for years. Fay found that if I left out the powdered
ingredients it worked better.
STAIN BASE
Soda Feldspar 20
Kaolin 10
Ball Clay 5
Frit 3124 10
Stain 40
Liquid 75 = Propylene Glycol 1000cc
Distilled Water 1000cc
CMC Liquid 500cc
CMC Liquid is made by disolving 35 grams of CMC powder
in 1 litre of distilled water. Let it stand for 2 days to break
down completely into the water. I mixed in 450 grams of the
powder base + 400 grams of the stain + 750 cc of the stain
liquid + I added 100 to 140 cc of distilled water to get to the
correct viscosity that Fay wanted. We did away with the
powder base and rather just used the stain liquid and stain.
Fay puts in about 10 grams of stain in a small container,
then 20 cc of stain liquid, and adds water to that mixture to
get it to the viscosity she requires for the type of decorating
she is doing.
I am not the decorator around here, I am just being told
what is needed and what to do. Hope this helps Ralph in PE
SA
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