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waxing

updated wed 27 jan 10

 

Ruth Blake on mon 25 may 98

I just purchased the book "Handbuilt Ceramics" by Kathy Triplett and
one of the pieces in the book is listed as wax/oil finish (P 139 David
A. Stabley). What kind of wax are we talking about? I love the
look of this piece and wonder if the wax would compliment the sgraffito
designs on my pots.
I have tried a few glazes and am not satisfied with any of them.
Ruth Blake

Carole Fox on mon 17 dec 01


Thanks to all who posted about waxing. Some mentioned that instead of =
rinsing their ware, they clean off the dust with a damp sponge. Are you =
saying you actually hand wipe each and every pot with a sponge- inside =
and out?? This seems like it would take an awfully long time to do. )Or =
is that one of those tasks that just takes ME a long time to do!)

Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Elkton, MD
cfox@dca.net

Dale Neese on mon 17 dec 01


Carole, if you have sanded a foot or somewhere else on a bone dry piece =
before firing, had a bisque pot sitting on a shelf for a long time =
before glazing then take a damp rag and wipe off possible dust. The =
glaze has a better chance of adhering. Also it is good to check each =
piece for that stray little pimple or rough spot that can turn into a =
sharp little dagger when it is glazed. I kinda feel each piece all over =
with my hands. Wash hands after handling greasy pizza before fondling =
the bisqueware.......
Dale Tex

potterybydai on mon 17 dec 01


Carole - very occasionally do I wipe with a damp sponge, for the reason you
state---takes way too much time. Normally, I take my whole bisque load to
the sink and quickly rinse each piece, inside and out, under warm water,
then stack them upside down and leaning on each other (just like if you were
washing dishes) on a towel-covered table and leave them to dry till the next
day, when I wax them with cold wax resist. Never have I had the wax refuse
to bind with the bisque. We do a lot of slab work, and some of it gets
sanded (flat bottoms, etc.) while green; it seems no matter how well you
damp-sponge the greenware after sanding, there's still residual dust. I'm
convinced this dust travels throughout the kiln during firing, because I've
found other, non-sanded, pieces to be quite dusty after bisquing. I never
used to rinse my bisque, but I started having a lot of trouble with
crawling, etc. If I'm desperate to glaze a piece the same day it comes out
of the bisque, I'll damp-sponge it instead of rinsing.
Dai in Kelowna, BC
"Life is what happens while we're continuously planning what
our futures will be..... and before we know it, it's over."

Kate Johnson on mon 17 dec 01


Normally, I take my whole bisque load to
> the sink and quickly rinse each piece, inside and out, under warm water,
> then stack them upside down and leaning on each other (just like if you
were
> washing dishes) on a towel-covered table and leave them to dry till the
next
> day,



If I'm desperate to glaze a piece the same day it comes out
> of the bisque, I'll damp-sponge it instead of rinsing.

Um...I think we've just isolated another problem I've had with my glazes,
siiiigh. I always rinse bisque right before glazing, because the pottery
room is a high school pottery and sculpture classroom and VERY dusty. I dry
it with a paper towel if I'm in a hurry...usually only have an hour or so to
do a LOT of glazing...

So if it's still damp when I glaze, could that cause some of the problems
I've had with little bubbles and uneven glazes? (I usually brush or sponge,
not spray...)

Thanks, yet AGAIN--

Best--
Kate

SAM YANCY on mon 17 dec 01


I do. It gives me a opportunity to also inspect for minor defects. When I see them, because it is bisk ware, it is easy to touch up with some carbide sandpaper or a diamond coated file (using a mask of course). Bettter then before glazing or after firing. Sam in Daly City Ca. p.s Since I'm not so good a potter - i find a LOT of minor defects.

Carole Fox wrote:

> Thanks to all who posted about waxing. Some mentioned that instead of rinsing their ware, they clean off the dust with a damp sponge. Are you saying you actually hand wipe each and every pot with a sponge- inside and out?? This seems like it would take an awfully long time to do. )Or is that one of those tasks that just takes ME a long time to do!)
>
> Carole Fox
> Silver Fox Pottery
> Elkton, MD
> cfox@dca.net
>
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Marianne Lombardo on mon 17 dec 01


Kate;

I don't think so, myself. I brush my glazes on damp bisqueware because I
can get a more even coat that way.

Marianne
>
> So if it's still damp when I glaze, could that cause some of the problems
> I've had with little bubbles and uneven glazes? (I usually brush or
sponge,
> not spray...)

artimator on wed 2 jul 03


Wes wrote and ran away:
Looming under or above or behind or in front of it all - maybe actually
entwined in it - is a yearning for quality


and Phil wrote:
Maybe I wanna be an 'Artist'...

To do so, I want to see straight.

Then I may act it...Art is 'deeds'...one may do only as well
as one may see TO do.

Pretty good waxing going on there.....
The other day, I bought Garth Clark's book, "The Potters Art"....If =
you ever wanna know whether Leach wore jockeys or boxers, this book is =
the place to go.....He has got the details of English =
potters.........There was one disparaging remark about Adelade Robineau =
that pops up in my head though....I guess deep down he's an idiot, =
huh?...
PAX,
Rush
"I only indulge when I've seen a snake, so I keep a supply of =
indulgences and snakes handy"
http://artimator.com
rush@artimator.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/texasceramics/
Artimator Galleries
2420 Briarwood Ln.
Carrollton, TX 75006
972-841-1857

Kathy Chase-Jones on tue 26 jan 10


Hi- Since 1983 I have used floor wax for waxing the bottom
of pots. I was so tired of waiting for regular wax resist to
dry...And hot wax was not an option for me at school or in a
production factory. We tried high carnauba floor wax &
worked great. Many of my pieces are still single fired and
the floor wax works great on both bisque and greenware! I
keep the wax in a deli plastic container with a hole in the
lid for a flat brush (or sponge brush depends on the mood)
and just add a little water when the wax gets too thick.
Burns off clean, smells good going on, dries fast, glaze
scrubs right off, and the burn off fumes are not bad. If it
works it is not cheating, so try everything at least once!
:) Kathy Chase-Jones www.earthnfirepottery.com