Kristin Conrad on thu 28 may 98
I have been making tiles for a while now and have read all the technical
literature that I can find (not much). I am stuck with a couple of =
questions. I
need a light colored clay body (I am assuming with some grog content)=3B but=
am
currently using a sculpture clay where the grog size is much too large. I =
have
local access to Mile Hi Ceramics of Denver and Laguna Clay. Any suggestions=
for
a clay body that would pick up more detail and still not warp terribly?
Secondly, I currently make plaster molds to reproduce my designs. I have =
heard
about something called Hydrocal (not sure of spelling). Is this a good
alternative to plaster? How much longer do the molds last?
Finally, I have Frank Giorgini's tile book and it is wonderful=3B but are =
there
any other good tile references. How did you all LEARN the art of =
tilemaking???
I am equally interested in your stories as I am in any technical information=
you
could share=21
Thanks so much=21 Hope there are some tilemakers out there on the list=21
=40 =2A =40 =2A =40 =2A=2A =40 =2A=2A=2A =40 =2A=2A=2A=2A =40 =
=2A=2A=2A=2A=2A =40
Kristin Barnhardt Conrad
Fire Child Pottery =26 Tile
http://www.firechild.com
firechild=40firechild.com
303-258-7783
Janet or Michael Francoeur on fri 29 may 98
I've been making tiles for 2 years and I use Sandy Bottoms from Highwater
Clay in Asheville, NC it is light with a little speckle has grog but not
too much.
Where did you learn about moldmaking? That's my challange at the moment. Do
you have a good mold making book?
I too have wondered about hydrocal
How I learned is with Franks book too. I do 12" tiles that makes a table
top too. Firing them is a challenge but with the help of the folks on this
list I managed to figure that out too, (until the last 2 that both broke in
the glaze firing on the cooling end even though I did all the right things.
janet francoeur
new bern, nc
----------
From: Kristin Conrad
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: Tile Makers, quesitons and your stories
Date: Thursday, May 28, 1998 9:32 AM
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have been making tiles for a while now and have read all the technical
literature that I can find (not much). I am stuck with a couple of
questions. I
need a light colored clay body (I am assuming with some grog content); but
am
currently using a sculpture clay where the grog size is much too large. I
have
local access to Mile Hi Ceramics of Denver and Laguna Clay. Any
suggestions for
a clay body that would pick up more detail and still not warp terribly?
Secondly, I currently make plaster molds to reproduce my designs. I have
heard
about something called Hydrocal (not sure of spelling). Is this a good
alternative to plaster? How much longer do the molds last?
Finally, I have Frank Giorgini's tile book and it is wonderful; but are
there
any other good tile references. How did you all LEARN the art of
tilemaking???
I am equally interested in your stories as I am in any technical
information you
could share!
Thanks so much! Hope there are some tilemakers out there on the list!
@ * @ * @ ** @ *** @ **** @ ***** @
Kristin Barnhardt Conrad
Fire Child Pottery & Tile
http://www.firechild.com
firechild@firechild.com
303-258-7783
----------
Beth and Matt Stichter on fri 29 may 98
Kristen--
I am a big fan of HydroCal and HydroStone, and use it for all my tile
press molds. It doesn't have as quick of a release as pottery plaster and
the molds take a lot longer to dry, but it is *much* more durable. I don't
have the usual problem with delicate pieces of the mold chipping off. I
worked for two sculptors, making plaster molds, pouring waxes, and casting
bronzes for about 5 years, and it seems to be the material of choice for
that kind of high stress use. I would highly recommend it.
As far as claybodies are concerned, I am still searching myself. I have
tried porcelain, raku, soldate, a brown stoneware #112, and a white
stoneware body that I modified from a recipe. So far, the soldate warps
the least, but has _way_ too much grog (tends to fire with harsh pebbly
surface) and takes more than a day to drop out of the mold. A fine Raku
body works very well, but I get a fair amount of warping ( unless I dry the
tiles a-g-o-n-i-z-i-n-g-l-y slow). Porcelain and my white stoneware body
pick up lots and lots of detail, but dry so quickly in contact with the
plaster, that I get double image press marks (very frustrating). The brown
stoneware is nice, but it stains the mold and any white claybody you press
in after it....and like you, I am looking for a light claybody.
So. There it is...I would also be interested in any suggestions on
claybodies out there that would fit the bill for high relief press molds
for tiles.
Beth Cavener Stichter
Lorca Beebe on fri 29 may 98
Hydrocal I dont believe will do much good, plaster is probably cheaper any
way. I dont believe there is the ultimate tile clay body it all depends on the
"aesthetic" your after, and the place in where the tiles will be, i.e.
outdoors, indoors...I prefer terracotta and stoneware and I use allatta
grog...
My recipe book is in the glaze lab I'll be happy to forward the clay bodies
later in the week if you are interested in them.
Lorca
Cameron Harman on fri 29 may 98
To Kristin Conrad,
I was taken by one of your comments regarding the type of clay you
use. Whenever I hear of someone wanting to change clay because the
one they are using is warping, I want to help.
The problem is with the method of drying,. You shouldn't have to
change your raw material to solve a drying problem. The warping is
usually due to drying faster on one side than another. It is
difficult to give advice without knowing more details of the
situation, but in general the drying system must dry both sides of
a tile at the same time, and probably has to be more slow (higher
relative humidity) in the beginning.
Changing clay doesn't stop the problem, it only makes it less
visible. If you would email me with some details of the way you
dry I can make some simple suggestions for you to try. If that
stops your problem, then you won't have to change clays.
--
********************************************************
Cameron G. Harman, Jr. President Ceramic Services, Inc.
215-245-4040 fax 215-638-1812 visit us http://www.@kilnman.com
1060 Park Ave. Bensalem, PA 19020
THE place to go for answers to all YOUR kiln and dryer questions
********************************************************
Clyde Tullis on sun 31 may 98
I've also had warping in the glaze firing (cuping) when the tiles were
rolled too thin. Cone 10.
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