Beth Wheeler on tue 2 jun 98
I am posting this question for a couple of tile making friends who don't
have access to a computer - and also because I couldn't answer their
question. They want to create lines between different glazes on a tile,
but need to build sort of a retaining wall with the wax resist so they
don't get a blending of the glazes.
I recently found a great masking device - architect's tape. It comes in
many width's, some as small as a human hair, but it's not tall enough for
their needs. So far the suggestions that have not worked are as follows:
letting the wax resist harden; adding sucrose to the resist; and adding
Elmer's glue. If anyone has any thoughts, I know two Pensacola Potters who
would be most greatful.
Berry Silverman on wed 3 jun 98
There is a product called Glazeline that will probably do the trick.
It's made specifically for separating areas of glaze -- works great on
tile. It can be found through most of the ceramic suppliers. Check
their catalogs.
Beth Wheeler wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
> I am posting this question for a couple of tile making friends who
don't
> have access to a computer - and also because I couldn't answer their
> question. They want to create lines between different glazes on a
tile,
> but need to build sort of a retaining wall with the wax resist so they
> don't get a blending of the glazes.
>
> I recently found a great masking device - architect's tape. It
comes in
> many width's, some as small as a human hair, but it's not tall
enough for
> their needs. So far the suggestions that have not worked are as
follows:
> letting the wax resist harden; adding sucrose to the resist; and
adding
> Elmer's glue. If anyone has any thoughts, I know two Pensacola
Potters who
> would be most greatful.
>
==
Berry Silverman
Berryware - Tucson, Arizona
berrysilverman@yahoo.com
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Carolyn Hollingsworth on wed 3 jun 98
At 09:26 AM 6/2/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
They want to create lines between different glazes on a tile,
>but need to build sort of a retaining wall with the wax resist so they
>don't get a blending of the glazes.
There is an instrument used in batik for applying fine lines of wax to
textiles- perhaps someone else on the list can think of the name for it?
The thing is somewhat like a fountain pen in that it has a reservoir for wax
that feeds in to a small tube that forms the penpoint. The ones that
require the wax reservoir to be repeatedly held over a candle flame to keep
the wax molten are inexpensive. There are also electric models but they are
considerably harder to find.
Carolyn Hollingsworth
Atlanta, Georgia
Craig Martell on wed 3 jun 98
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I am posting this question for a couple of tile making friends who don't
>have access to a computer - and also because I couldn't answer their
>question. They want to create lines between different glazes on a tile,
>but need to build sort of a retaining wall with the wax resist so they
>don't get a blending of the glazes.
maybe they could try trailing liqiud latex resist.
craig martell-oregon
Kris Baum on wed 3 jun 98
Axner sells Glazeline, which is supposed to separate glazes with a
black (and I think it comes in other colors, too) line. I'm ashamed
to admit I got some to try and never got around to it... but they may
want to get some and try it.
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am posting this question for a couple of tile making friends who don't
> have access to a computer - and also because I couldn't answer their
> question. They want to create lines between different glazes on a tile,
> but need to build sort of a retaining wall with the wax resist so they
> don't get a blending of the glazes.
>
> I recently found a great masking device - architect's tape. It comes in
> many width's, some as small as a human hair, but it's not tall enough for
> their needs. So far the suggestions that have not worked are as follows:
> letting the wax resist harden; adding sucrose to the resist; and adding
> Elmer's glue. If anyone has any thoughts, I know two Pensacola Potters who
> would be most greatful.
>
>
Kris Baum
Shubunkin Pottery
Gaithersburg, MD
USA
mailto:shubunki@erols.com
pottery@ald.net on wed 3 jun 98
In article <3.0.1.16.19980417041001.2c87b516@pop.mindspring.com>,
Beth Wheeler wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am posting this question for a couple of tile making friends who don't
> have access to a computer - and also because I couldn't answer their
> question. They want to create lines between different glazes on a tile,
> but need to build sort of a retaining wall with the wax resist so they
> don't get a blending of the glazes.
>
> I recently found a great masking device - architect's tape. It comes in
> many width's, some as small as a human hair, but it's not tall enough for
> their needs. So far the suggestions that have not worked are as follows:
> letting the wax resist harden; adding sucrose to the resist; and adding
> Elmer's glue. If anyone has any thoughts, I know two Pensacola Potters who
> would be most greatful.
>
Here's a thought (don't know if I am grasping the project clearly):
How about using a line of thick trailed slip as a "wall", which could be
removed after the glaze and slip have dried?
By the way, a good was resist can be made from one part Vaseline to one part
Mineral Spirits. Not appropriate for your friends' project however.
-Debra Ocepek
Ocepek Pottery
pottery@ald.net
-Groucho Sent Me.
-----== Posted via Deja News, The Leader in Internet Discussion ==-----
http://www.dejanews.com/ Now offering spam-free web-based newsreading
Michele Delehanty on wed 3 jun 98
Here is just a thought - not proven by any means but a thought.
Try using an underglaze bottle with a fine tip or an empty bottle from one of
those fabric paints like "Tulip" brand with a fine tip. Make it finer by
using transparent tape wrapped around the tip forming a finer cone point. Now
fill the bottle with one of the following:
Rubber Cement
Thick White glue like Alene's Tacky Glue
Thick Latex paint
Thick Acrylic paint
I suggest all these as they can later be removed before firing if they are
layed down in a thin line. They are thick enough to form the barrier your
friends want and they will not bleed into the glaze areas once dry.
Michele Delehanty ( a student and a grandma)
Billy Winer on wed 3 jun 98
Please, let me know where did you find the architects tape? I have been unable
to locate a vendor. Thanks, Billy
Beth Wheeler wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am posting this question for a couple of tile making friends who don't
> have access to a computer - and also because I couldn't answer their
> question. They want to create lines between different glazes on a tile,
> but need to build sort of a retaining wall with the wax resist so they
> don't get a blending of the glazes.
>
> I recently found a great masking device - architect's tape. It comes in
> many width's, some as small as a human hair, but it's not tall enough for
> their needs. So far the suggestions that have not worked are as follows:
> letting the wax resist harden; adding sucrose to the resist; and adding
> Elmer's glue. If anyone has any thoughts, I know two Pensacola Potters who
> would be most greatful.
D. McDysan on wed 3 jun 98
Beth,
Tell your friends to try rubber latex in a squeeze bottle. Amaco makes
such a product that is thick enough to "stand up". The larger the hole
on the tip of the squeeze bottle the higher the line. When the lines are
dry just apply the glazes between them. When the glazes are dry remove
the latex ( pull it off ). Then fire as usual.
Hope this helps!
Debbie McDysan
dmcdysan@onramp.net
Katy Sheridan on wed 3 jun 98
The name of the instrument is a pronounced like "chanting" though that is
not the
correct spelling. I think it begins with another letter which is silent
when pronounced.
Katy Sheridan
>There is an instrument used in batik for applying fine lines of wax to
>textiles- perhaps someone else on the list can think of the name for it?
>The thing is somewhat like a fountain pen in that it has a reservoir for wax
>that feeds in to a small tube that forms the penpoint. The ones that
>require the wax reservoir to be repeatedly held over a candle flame to keep
>the wax molten are inexpensive. There are also electric models but they are
>considerably harder to find.
>
>Carolyn Hollingsworth
>Atlanta, Georgia
>
>
the Gallagher's on thu 4 jun 98
>They want to create lines between different >glazes on a tile,
>but need to build sort of a retaining wall >with the wax resist so they
>don't get a blending of the glazes.
Hi,
There is a product called GlazeLine, that is made for this purpose. It leaves
behind a dry black line and keeps the glazes from running into each other.
Try asking your local supplier if they can order it.
This technique is called cuerda seca, "dry line". Originally this mixture
was made with a mineral oil and manganeze oxide. Very toxic! Another way to
do it is to design the tile with a wall of clay providing the outline. This
is called cuenca, and can be done by creating a mold of bisque or plaster.
First you do the design in reverse, cutting out the line, like scraffito, then
using the bisque fired tile as a press mold, you create a tile with raised
lines. To make a plaster mold, you need to make either a plaster blank and
carve out the plaster (not the best method) or make a plaster casting of the
tile you have gotten after pressing with the bisque tile. The plaster mold
will last longer than the bisque, as you can make it much thicker.
Hope this info helps.
Michelle
In Oregon, where summer might be here this week, then again.......maybe not !
DIANA PANCIOLI, ASSOC. PROF. on thu 4 jun 98
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Axner sells Glazeline, which is supposed to separate glazes with a
> black (and I think it comes in other colors, too) line. I'm ashamed
> to admit I got some to try and never got around to it... but they may
> want to get some and try it.
>
You can make this yourself: Mix a teaspoon of black glaze with a teaspoon
of wax resist. Mix it fresh every time (which is the reason for the small
quantity)
Similar to cuerda seca.
Diana
EMU
the Gallagher's on thu 4 jun 98
Djanting Tool is what you mean.
=)
----------
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List on behalf of Katy Sheridan
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 1998 5:46 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: Re: Wax Resist Question
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
The name of the instrument is a pronounced like "chanting" though that is
not the
correct spelling. I think it begins with another letter which is silent
when pronounced.
Katy Sheridan
>There is an instrument used in batik for applying fine lines of wax to
>textiles- perhaps someone else on the list can think of the name for it?
>The thing is somewhat like a fountain pen in that it has a reservoir for wax
>that feeds in to a small tube that forms the penpoint. The ones that
>require the wax reservoir to be repeatedly held over a candle flame to keep
>the wax molten are inexpensive. There are also electric models but they are
>considerably harder to find.
>
>Carolyn Hollingsworth
>Atlanta, Georgia
>
>
Grace Epstein on thu 4 jun 98
tjanting is the batik tool used to "draw" lines with wax in batik or Ukranian
egg designing. A company which specifically deals with batik supplies is (if
they're still around ):
Dharma Trading Co
1604 Fourth Street
PO Box 916
San Rafael, CA 94902
Grace/Sunny, blustery, beautiful CT
Judith Enright on thu 4 jun 98
Some of the Duncan covercoat underglazes work well, too, if you're looking for
color in the separating lines. I've used the Straw yellow and black, drawn on
with squeeze bottle and fine tip; they fire up glossy both at ^04 bisque and ^10
glaze. BTW, I've found that using the squeeze bottles to apply glaze between
the lines works really well, too.
Have fun!
Judith Enright @ Black Leopard Clayware
----------
From: "Berry Silverman"
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 1998 8:17 AM
To: "Multiple recipients of list CLAYART"
Subject: Re: Wax Resist Question
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
There is a product called Glazeline that will probably do the trick.
It's made specifically for separating areas of glaze -- works great on
tile. It can be found through most of the ceramic suppliers. Check
their catalogs.
Beth Wheeler wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original
message----------------------------
> I am posting this question for a couple of tile making friends who
don't
> have access to a computer - and also because I couldn't answer their
> question. They want to create lines between different glazes on a
tile,
> but need to build sort of a retaining wall with the wax resist so they
> don't get a blending of the glazes.
>
> I recently found a great masking device - architect's tape. It
comes in
> many width's, some as small as a human hair, but it's not tall
enough for
> their needs. So far the suggestions that have not worked are as
follows:
> letting the wax resist harden; adding sucrose to the resist; and
adding
> Elmer's glue. If anyone has any thoughts, I know two Pensacola
Potters who
> would be most greatful.
>
==
Berry Silverman
Berryware - Tucson, Arizona
berrysilverman@yahoo.com
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Beth Wheeler on thu 4 jun 98
Billy, the architect's tape can be found at Dick Blick Art Supply - I
think they are a national chain.
At 08:37 AM 6/3/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Please, let me know where did you find the architects tape? I have been
unable
>to locate a vendor. Thanks, Billy
>
>Beth Wheeler wrote:
>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> I am posting this question for a couple of tile making friends who don't
>> have access to a computer - and also because I couldn't answer their
>> question. They want to create lines between different glazes on a tile,
>> but need to build sort of a retaining wall with the wax resist so they
>> don't get a blending of the glazes.
>>
>> I recently found a great masking device - architect's tape. It comes in
>> many width's, some as small as a human hair, but it's not tall enough for
>> their needs. So far the suggestions that have not worked are as follows:
>> letting the wax resist harden; adding sucrose to the resist; and adding
>> Elmer's glue. If anyone has any thoughts, I know two Pensacola Potters who
>> would be most greatful.
>
Bill Aycock on thu 4 jun 98
The word is usually spelled "Tjanting", and is a companion to the word
"Tjap" (pronounced "chop") that is for stamping wax when doing Batik.
I have seen several other spellings, but this one is used in most craft
tool catalogues.
Bill
At 08:46 AM 6/3/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>The name of the instrument is a pronounced like "chanting" though that is
>not the
>correct spelling. I think it begins with another letter which is silent
>when pronounced.
>Katy Sheridan
>
>>There is an instrument used in batik for applying fine lines of wax to
>>textiles- perhaps someone else on the list can think of the name for it?
>>The thing is somewhat like a fountain pen in that it has a reservoir for wax
>>that feeds in to a small tube that forms the penpoint. The ones that
>>require the wax reservoir to be repeatedly held over a candle flame to keep
>>the wax molten are inexpensive. There are also electric models but they are
>>considerably harder to find.
>>
>>Carolyn Hollingsworth
>>Atlanta, Georgia
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Bill Aycock --- Persimmon Hill
Woodville, Alabama, US 35776
(in the N.E. corner of the State)
W4BSG -- Grid EM64vr
baycock@HiWAAY.net
Toni Smith on wed 26 jan 05
A quick question for the wax resist experts. I am working on some pots with a vine design (incised) and using liquid wax. Since its on white stoneware I am going to color the wax with food color as some have suggested. However, some of the lines are very fine and I wondered if there is something that works better than a fine brush to apply the wax? A straw from a broom?....I know, I have to try it for myself. Just wondered if anyone found some alternative that worked better for them for fine incised lines. Thanks for any help. Toni in Ohio, just happy to be back in the studio!
Ann Brink on wed 26 jan 05
Toni, there is a little tool that tie dyers use: it has a small metal bowl
on the end of a handle and the bowl has a tiny pipe coming out of it. Sorry
to be inexact but it's called something like "jaunting", chunting,
djanting???? Craft stores have them. Haven't used one myself, but it
sounds perfect for what you want to do.
Ann Brink in Lompoc CA
> A quick question for the wax resist experts. I am working on some pots
with a vine design (incised) and using liquid wax. Since its on white
stoneware I am going to color the wax with food color as some have
suggested. However, some of the lines are very fine and I wondered if there
is something that works better than a fine brush to apply the wax? A straw
from a broom?....I know, I have to try it for myself. Just wondered if
anyone found some alternative that worked better for them for fine incised
lines. Thanks for any help. Toni in Ohio, just happy to be back in the
studio!
>
>.
Carl D Cravens on wed 26 jan 05
On Wed, 26 Jan 2005, Ann Brink wrote:
> Toni, there is a little tool that tie dyers use: it has a small metal bowl
> on the end of a handle and the bowl has a tiny pipe coming out of it. Sorry
> to be inexact but it's called something like "jaunting", chunting,
> djanting???? Craft stores have them. Haven't used one myself, but it
> sounds perfect for what you want to do.
Tjanting. They're used in batik to draw designs on fabric to resist the
dye. Draw, dye, melt the wax out. Do it again if you want multiple
colors.
A tjanting takes some practice to get the hang of, but I think it will
probably work for what you're doing. Do note that it takes a _lot_ of
practice to be really precise with a traditional (non-self-heating)
tjanting, because the way the wax flows fluxuates with temperature... a
freshly loaded tjanting is hot and the wax practically drips out of it.
It cools rapidly and solidifies. Somewhere in between is a very short
window where it's flowing at the exact rate you want for the control you
need. (I'm sure a brush has similar issues.)
If I were going to do a lot of this, I'd go with an electric tjanting,
which will keep a reservoir of wax at a constant temp.
A sample of the tools can be seen here...
http://www.dharmatrading.com/batik_tools.html
--
Carl D Cravens (raven@phoenyx.net)
Don't anthropomorphize computers. They hate that.
Bob Masta on thu 27 jan 05
Toni, besides the batik/tie-dye tools you might also look
into the tools for making Ukranian Easier eggs ("pysanky").
The tool is called a "kristka" (various English spellings)
and is available with a built-in heater or with just a little
wax pot you heat over a candle. Makes extremely fine
lines, as you may know if you've ever seen one of these
eggs. I've never tried this myself, but keep meaning to.
(I've even made a 2-piece plaster mold and turned out
some decent jumbo-sized ceramic eggs... just need
to get the kristka next!) I found several Websites that
sell these tools a while back. They were pretty inexpensive,
but being a tinkerer at heart I may be compelled to make
my own...
Best regards,
Bob Masta
potsATdaqartaDOTcom
David Beumee on thu 27 jan 05
One technique you might consider is covering the areas to be decorated or the whole piece with a thin layer of wax. After the wax dries you can sgraffito through and get very fine lines to inlay with stain, slip, or glaze.
David Beumee
davidbeumee.com
Lafayette, CO
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Toni Smith
> A quick question for the wax resist experts. I am working on some pots with a
> vine design (incised) and using liquid wax. Since its on white stoneware I am
> going to color the wax with food color as some have suggested. However, some of
> the lines are very fine and I wondered if there is something that works better
> than a fine brush to apply the wax? A straw from a broom?....I know, I have to
> try it for myself. Just wondered if anyone found some alternative that worked
> better for them for fine incised lines. Thanks for any help. Toni in Ohio, just
> happy to be back in the studio!
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Des & Jan Howard on fri 28 jan 05
Toni
We use hair dye bottles that an IV cannula will fit onto.
Clairol is no longer using this shape so I gotta treasure my stash.
Des
Toni Smith wrote:
>A quick question for the wax resist experts. I am working on some pots with a vine design (incised) and using liquid wax. Since its on white stoneware I am going to color the wax with food color as some have suggested. However, some of the lines are very fine and I wondered if there is something that works better than a fine brush to apply the wax? A straw from a broom?....I know, I have to try it for myself. Just wondered if anyone found some alternative that worked better for them for fine incised lines.
>
>
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
LUE NSW 2850
Australia
Ph/Fax 02 6373 6419
http://www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
Lou Roess on sat 5 feb 05
On Jan 26, 2005, at 8:26 AM, Toni Smith wrote:
> something that works better than a fine brush to apply the wax?
Toni, Rereading your post, it occurred to me that you might try dipping
thread or fine string into the liquid wax and laying it on the piece
where you want the lines. I haven't tried this but it sounds like it
would work. Of course the lines wouldn't be incised, but perhaps you
could incise the lines into the clay and then lay the string in those
lines. Just thinking out loud.
Regards,
Lou inColorado
Kathy McDonald on sun 6 feb 05
On Jan 26, 2005, at 8:26 AM, Toni Smith asked:
> ..........is there something that works better than a fine brush to apply
the wax?
Toni I use an epoxy bottle with a very fine metal tip to apply wax in
patterns on pots.
If you contact me offlist I will give you the particulars and a place that
may still supply them.
I am reluctant to post the company name to the list because I do not know
whether they are still
in business.
I bought my bottles from a jeweller when he was going out of businessa
number of years ago
and have a number still in daily use.
The syringe that is shown on the Tucker's Pottery Supply website looks as
though it might work well too.
The site is http://www.tuckerspottery.com and you need to do a search for
slip trailer.
They retail for 39.95 .
Good luck,
Kathy McDonald
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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Eleanora Eden on wed 9 feb 05
Hi Toni and all,
The Ukrainian tool name is a kiska, made to do pysanki, the decorated
eggs. (I used to give an annual pysanki workshop.) The Thai tool is
the same. These are hard to get the hang of, lots of problems with
temp of wax, clogging, lots of mess. I have both regular and
electric kiska and have used them for pottery...very fine line when
it works right but WAAAAAY too much hassle.
Awhile back we did some group buys over clayart for 2oz squeeze
bottles. They don't have metal points but do a passable job. These
came from the Chlotilde, a catalog of sewing notions. Most recently
I have bought metal tips from Axner. They come with or without the
little bottles, 3 choices for tip size. I was finding that the
plastic tips were leaving a residue which resisted the glaze and
caused a crawl, so I screw the metal tip on top and presto no more
crawls.
Best choice for your use I would think would be one of these
metal-tipped squeeze bottles.
Eleanora
>A quick question for the wax resist experts. I am working on some
>pots with a vine design (incised) and using liquid wax. Since its on
>white stoneware I am going to color the wax with food color as some
>have suggested. However, some of the lines are very fine and I
>wondered if there is something that works better than a fine brush
>to apply the wax? A straw from a broom?....I know, I have to try it
>for myself. Just wondered if anyone found some alternative that
>worked better for them for fine incised lines. Thanks for any help.
>Toni in Ohio, just happy to be back in the studio!
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
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