Anjali Gulati on mon 15 jun 98
Dear friends
In the latest issue of the American Crafts magazine there is an
article on Sang Robertson. In that article the recipe for the
terrasigilatta calls for clay, water and "SODA ASH". What exactly
does this chemical do and what temperature does it mature to ? What
percentage of it should be added to the clay ? Considering it is a
recipe for terrasigilatta it must be maturing cone ^08. I would
like to know more about soda ash and i also remember reading a
simple recipe for soda ash wash (soda ash and water). Does anybody
have exact proportions. Please help.
.............Anjali
Abro on wed 17 jun 98
Hi! The proportions for mixing soda ash are 6 to 1, water to soda ash. It
is important to mix it in either boiling water or very hot water or the soda
ash will not dissolve. I use it alot on red clay fired to cone 6-very nice
surface. Enjoy.
Karin A.
-----Original Message-----
From: Anjali Gulati
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Date: Monday, June 15, 1998 10:56 AM
Subject: Soda Ash
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Dear friends
In the latest issue of the American Crafts magazine there is an
article on Sang Robertson. In that article the recipe for the
terrasigilatta calls for clay, water and "SODA ASH". What exactly
does this chemical do and what temperature does it mature to ? What
percentage of it should be added to the clay ? Considering it is a
recipe for terrasigilatta it must be maturing cone ^08. I would
like to know more about soda ash and i also remember reading a
simple recipe for soda ash wash (soda ash and water). Does anybody
have exact proportions. Please help.
.............Anjali
Peter Atwood on tue 12 jan 99
Hi All,
Got yet another question for you. I recently tried for a
soda effect on a small bisqued test pot by brushing a
mixture of soda ash and water onto the pot. I used white
stoneware so that I could really see the final effect
and applied the mixture liberally. Then I fired to ^10R.
The result was this: Shiny dark orange flashing on some
areas, pale shiny finish on others, and crusty yellowish
barnaclelike blisters on the rest. The inside seemed to
have burned away completely and left nothing but bare clay.
I'd like to achieve a controlled orange flashing effect. Is
there something else I could try to get this to happen? Even
if the flashing is sporadic, is there a concoction that will
at least be devoid of blisters?
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
--Peter Atwood
fountainman@hotmail.com
______________________________________________________
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Sharon Pollock-De Luzio on fri 15 jan 99
In a message dated 1/12/99 10:23:45 AM, you wrote:
<there something else I could try to get this to happen? Even
if the flashing is sporadic, is there a concoction that will
at least be devoid of blisters?
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
--Peter Atwood
fountainman@hotmail.com
>>
Peter-
Try disolving the soda ash very well with hot water and spray it on the pots.
I have used a regurlar water bottle sprayer. With trial and error you can
learn to control this quite well. WORD OF CAUTION: soda ash is very caustic.
Wear respirator, gloves, eye protection, long sleeves.
Good luck.
Sharon
spollockdl@aol.com
Wade Blocker on wed 12 jan 00
Just a thank you to all of you who have answered my questions relating to
soda ash and PBX clay. I should have some glaze results in a month or so ,
and if successful will post the recipe. Mia in warm and springlike ABQ
Wade Blocker on fri 23 jun 00
Alisa,
Soda ash is Na2C03, this compound is a very active flux for low temperature
glazes.Since it is soluble it is generally used in frit form to prevent
recrystallization in the glaze solution.Can also be used as a deflocculant
in slip casting.
Hope this helps, Mia in hot ABQ
Wade Blocker on sat 24 jun 00
----------
>
Because soda ash is water soluable, does that mean that leftovers of a soda
ash wash can not be kept because
the salt disappears? I had some in a bottle and it seems that the salt is
gone as the pot I tried it does not glisten
with salt like when I originally used the solution.
Thanks again. Your posts are very helpful.
Best regards,
Alisa
Alisa, I do not have an answer for your problem.I am not a glaze guru, Tom
Buck would probably have the correct answer. My question would be
was the bottle corked? I have heard of the same problem using borax.
I can understand the water evaporating, but not some glaze material just
disappearing. My glaze containers have a lid, but sometimes the liquid or
water evaporates. I just add more water and have
never found that the remaining glaze differed in any way. Mia in hot ABQ
John Baymore on mon 26 jun 00
Because soda ash is water soluable, does that mean that leftovers of a so=
da
ash wash can not be kept because
the salt disappears? I had some in a bottle and it seems that the salt i=
s
gone as the pot I tried it does not glisten
with salt like when I originally used the solution.
Hi.
Soda ash IS soluble in water. However, when the water evaporates, the so=
da
compounds cannot go with it into the air....so they remain in the jar. I=
f
the solution was already saturated........ holding all the soda ash in
solution that it could at the temperature it was prepared............,
sometimes the soda compounds will crystalize out as the temperature of th=
e
original solution drops.... or the water evaporates and makes the
concentration MORE than the liquid can hold (at that temperature). =
Once there are some "seed crystals" in the liquid, it can sometimes cause=
more of the soda compounds to percipitate out than would tend to if they
weren't there due to just concentration/temperature issues. Sort of make=
s
it "easy" for them to become crystaline again . They build on the
available crystaline structure edges and "grow".
Making rock candy with sugar and water is similar.
It is possible that some of the soda compounds percipitated out of the
liquid and are lining the inside of the container so that the soda
concentration in the liquid is not as heavy as it was when you last used
it. But to do that I would expect that it would be visible. Is the
container opaque, or opaque/translucent white? In that case, there might=
be more crystaline soda compounds on the inside surface than you realize.=
Hope this helps.
Best,
.......................john
John Baymore
River Bend Pottery
22 Riverbend Way
Wilton, NH 03086 USA
603-654-2752 (s)
800-900-1110 (s)
JBaymore@compuserve.com
John.Baymore@GSD-CO.com
"Earth, Water, and Fire Noborigama Woodfiring Workshop August 18-27,
2000"
Tom Buck on tue 12 dec 00
Nancy A:
Yeah, I've been puzzled by the two terms (light, dense) and
wondered what they meant, so I looked it up in my copy of "Industrial
Chemicals". There are a few sources of soda ash, the Solvay process from
100 years ago (still works) makes soda ash (sodium carbonate) from common
salt (sodium chloride); from lake brines; from "trona" mined in Wyoming;
and by electrolyzing salt and bubbling Carbon dixoide through the cell
liquor. So each of these processes produces a slightly different
crystalline sodium carbonate by precipitation from solution and filtering
out the soda ash.
Several grades of soda ash are sold but the two of interest to
potters are: commercial grade containing 82% sodium carbonate (48% sodium
oxide, Na2O); and a grade (probably for glass-makers) that contains 99%
sodium carbonate (58% Na2O). Now, if you are still with me, here is where
the distinction between light and dense occurs. Both light and dense come
in the grades, 48% & 58%, and the difference is how well the crystalline
solid packs in the bag, ie, the apparent "bulk" density; dense means
packed more tightly than light, but otherwise chemically the two are
identical. However, some chemical processors required a compact form of
soda ash for their operations; hence the development of the dense form
sometime ago.
So Nancy use either dense or light interchangeably but always ask
whether the soda is 99% pure or 82% pure, and adjust your recipe
accordingly.
GOOD POTS. BFN. Peace. Tom B.
Tom Buck ) tel: 905-389-2339
(westend Lake Ontario, province of Ontario, Canada).
mailing address: 373 East 43rd Street,
Hamilton ON L8T 3E1 Canada
Dupre Mr Marcy M on mon 23 sep 02
Clayarters, Mudbuds, and Claymates,
While reading up on some Shino glazes, trying to find something I can use in
an electric fire at ^6, I came across this recipe, submitted by Lee Love,
attributed to Crain Edwards:
Shino-type Glaze ^6
--------------------
Gerstley borate 5.0
Soda Ash 4.0
Spodumene 22.0
Nepheline syenite 54.0
Kentucky OM#4 15.0
--------------------------
100.0
The notes recommend a salt or wood firing, and applying over an iron wash.
OK, so far. Now, as a glaze tyro, I know that soda ash is caustic, akin to
lye. Looking up in my references, I find that the reason for using soda ash
is to supply sodium to the glaze as a flux.
My question to the Committee on Glaze Purity: Why not substitute sodium
bicarbonate--a non-caustic compound--to supply the necessary sodium flux for
the glaze? If the intent is to flux and not to deflocculate, why not use a
safer material?
Just asking. Please educate me.
Thanks in advance,
Tig Dupre
in Springfield, VA where the weather continues to tease with too little
rain...
Hank Murrow on mon 23 sep 02
Dear Tig;
This type of Shino uses Soda Ash to provide a source of
Soluble Sodium, which promotes carbon trapping and early melting on
the surface of the glaze (from the deposit of sodium during drying).
Perhaps the sodium bicarb will have the same affect on your glaze.
Why don't you try it and see, reporting back to Clayart? BTW, some
use up to (and perhaps beyond) 18% in their Shinos.
Cheers, Hank in Eugene (who is far from pure)
>Clayarters, Mudbuds, and Claymates,
>
>While reading up on some Shino glazes, trying to find something I can use in
>an electric fire at ^6, I came across this recipe, submitted by Lee Love,
>attributed to Crain Edwards:
>
>Shino-type Glaze ^6
>--------------------
>Gerstley borate 5.0
>Soda Ash 4.0
>Spodumene 22.0
>Nepheline syenite 54.0
>Kentucky OM#4 15.0
>--------------------------
> 100.0
>
>The notes recommend a salt or wood firing, and applying over an iron wash.
>
>OK, so far. Now, as a glaze tyro, I know that soda ash is caustic, akin to
>lye. Looking up in my references, I find that the reason for using soda ash
>is to supply sodium to the glaze as a flux.
>
>My question to the Committee on Glaze Purity: Why not substitute sodium
>bicarbonate--a non-caustic compound--to supply the necessary sodium flux for
>the glaze? If the intent is to flux and not to deflocculate, why not use a
>safer material?
>
>Just asking. Please educate me.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Tig Dupre
Gail Fullerton on mon 28 apr 08
Is the soda ash (sodium carbonate) sitting in a box beside my washing =
machine close enough to the soda ash I would order from my raw materials =
distributor to use in a not too fussy glaze? Living in alaska is th=
e best, except for when I get a notion to try something new and it will t=
ake at least a week to get the material I need shipped up from outside.
Gail Fullerton on Moose Mountain north of Fairbanks, where w=
e have had a least 3 Springs so far this year. Warm and sunny one d=
ay - out come the shorts and sandles, cold and snowing the next - ba=
ck into my boots and down parka.
=
Celia Hirsh on wed 14 dec 11
Hi,
Does anyone know whether the Soda Ash we use in glazes is the same
Soda Ash(NA2CO3) that is used in dyeing fabric?
Thanks,
Celia Hirsh
hirshpottery.com
Steve Mills on thu 15 dec 11
Celia,
Sodium Carbonate aka Soda Ash are one and the same i e : NA2CO3
Steve M
Sent from my iPod
On 14 Dec 2011, at 23:51, Celia Hirsh wrote:
> Hi,
> Does anyone know whether the Soda Ash we use in glazes is the same
> Soda Ash(NA2CO3) that is used in dyeing fabric?
> Thanks,
> Celia Hirsh
> hirshpottery.com
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