centa uhalde on mon 29 jun 98
Paul,
thanks for answering what I realize was probably a dumb question from
someone who doesn't quite know what she's up to with clay, yet! But while
I'm at it, you do tile, no? You probably know something about glazes that
break well over carving, yes? Well, could you suggest possibly a good basic
recipe that is not shiny/glossy that would break over carving, either low
or midfire range? Or where I might look for such recipes? I do have your
rasberry matt, is that one? It's funny because I keep saying I don't really
want to get into glazes at this point, would rather work with form, but I
seem also to be interested in surface texture, digging into the clay upon a
form.
Thanks,
Centa
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Paul,
> Would you say this is a good basic setup for low fire as well?
Basically, but you would need more fluxes and less of the refractory
stuff like silica and kaolin. Also, some of the fluxes, like feldspar
and talc and barium carbonate wouldn't do you much good. You'd
probably be better off getting more frits.
Paul Lewing
Ray Carlton on tue 30 jun 98
get used to it centa...glaze [surface treatment] is a part of the process
and once you begin discussions on how do I get this effect or what type of
glaze should I use to get another effect your are already into glazes..We
could send off a heap of recipes to you but none would be of much use as
they fire differently in different kilns and temperatures...
frinstance here is a fovourite of mine
barium oxide 50
feldspar 50
kaolin 50
very dry surface and responds well to additions of
iron 1- 5
copper1-5
manganese1-5
glaze stains5-15 etc etc etc
dont use it on anyhting designed for food
At 09:25 29/06/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Paul,
>thanks for answering what I realize was probably a dumb question from
>someone who doesn't quite know what she's up to with clay, yet! But while
>I'm at it, you do tile, no? You probably know something about glazes that
>break well over carving, yes? Well, could you suggest possibly a good basic
>recipe that is not shiny/glossy that would break over carving, either low
>or midfire range? Or where I might look for such recipes? I do have your
>rasberry matt, is that one? It's funny because I keep saying I don't really
>want to get into glazes at this point, would rather work with form, but I
>seem also to be interested in surface texture, digging into the clay upon a
>form.
>
>Thanks,
>Centa
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> Paul,
>> Would you say this is a good basic setup for low fire as well?
>
>Basically, but you would need more fluxes and less of the refractory
>stuff like silica and kaolin. Also, some of the fluxes, like feldspar
>and talc and barium carbonate wouldn't do you much good. You'd
>probably be better off getting more frits.
>Paul Lewing
>
>
cheers :) Ray Carlton
McMahons Creek Victoria Australia
Paul Lewing on tue 30 jun 98
centa uhalde wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Paul,
> thanks for answering what I realize was probably a dumb question from
> someone who doesn't quite know what she's up to with clay, yet! But while
> I'm at it, you do tile, no? You probably know something about glazes that
> break well over carving, yes? Well, could you suggest possibly a good basic
> recipe that is not shiny/glossy that would break over carving, either low
> or midfire range? Or where I might look for such recipes? I do have your
> rasberry matt, is that one?
I doubt it. I don't do any carving on my tile, so I don't pay much
attention to how much glazes break. It's going to be really hard to
find a glaze that breaks that isn't shiny. If it's fluid enough to
run a little, it pretty much has to be glossy. You could try
adjusting whatever glaze you have that comes closest to working, by
adding more flux, or by taking out some clay.
Here are two cone 5 oxidation glazes I know will break. The colorants
are only suggestions- try making them any color you want.
69 Green
Neph Sy 50
Whiting 20
Frit 3134 20
Ball Clay 10
Rutile 5
Copper Carb. 2
Wild Rose Temmoku (sometimes it's temmoku)
Lithium Carb. 10.5
Bone Ash 10.5
Neph Sy 61.5
EPK 17.5
Iron Ox. 10.5
By the way, where do you live? I do a lot of workshops, and I might
be coming close to you (Vancouver, BC, South Carolina, or Philadelphia
this fall). I always talk quite a bit about glazes in my workshops.
Have fun testing.
Paul
Dwiggins, Sandra (NCI) on wed 1 jul 98
Ray--
Is this a cone 6 oxidation glaze? I love the surface that barium gives...
Sandy
-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Carlton [SMTP:rcarlton@valylink.net.au]
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 1998 10:38 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: Re: glazes that break well
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
get used to it centa...glaze [surface treatment] is a part of the process
and once you begin discussions on how do I get this effect or what type of
glaze should I use to get another effect your are already into glazes..We
could send off a heap of recipes to you but none would be of much use as
they fire differently in different kilns and temperatures...
frinstance here is a fovourite of mine
barium oxide 50
feldspar 50
kaolin 50
very dry surface and responds well to additions of
iron 1- 5
copper1-5
manganese1-5
glaze stains5-15 etc etc etc
dont use it on anyhting designed for food
At 09:25 29/06/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Paul,
>thanks for answering what I realize was probably a dumb question from
>someone who doesn't quite know what she's up to with clay, yet! But while
>I'm at it, you do tile, no? You probably know something about glazes that
>break well over carving, yes? Well, could you suggest possibly a good basic
>recipe that is not shiny/glossy that would break over carving, either low
>or midfire range? Or where I might look for such recipes? I do have your
>rasberry matt, is that one? It's funny because I keep saying I don't really
>want to get into glazes at this point, would rather work with form, but I
>seem also to be interested in surface texture, digging into the clay upon a
>form.
>
>Thanks,
>Centa
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> Paul,
>> Would you say this is a good basic setup for low fire as well?
>
>Basically, but you would need more fluxes and less of the refractory
>stuff like silica and kaolin. Also, some of the fluxes, like feldspar
>and talc and barium carbonate wouldn't do you much good. You'd
>probably be better off getting more frits.
>Paul Lewing
>
>
cheers :) Ray Carlton
McMahons Creek Victoria Australia
Cheryl L Litman on wed 1 jul 98
Ray,
I guess this is for cone 6 ox? Is it matt?
Cheryl Litman
Somerset, NJ
email: cheryllitman@juno.com
On Tue, 30 Jun 1998 10:38:29 EDT Ray Carlton
writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>get used to it centa...glaze [surface treatment] is a part of the
>process
>and once you begin discussions on how do I get this effect or what
>type of
>glaze should I use to get another effect your are already into
>glazes..We
>could send off a heap of recipes to you but none would be of much use
>as
>they fire differently in different kilns and temperatures...
>frinstance here is a fovourite of mine
>
>barium oxide 50
>feldspar 50
>kaolin 50
>
>very dry surface and responds well to additions of
>iron 1- 5
>copper1-5
>manganese1-5
>glaze stains5-15 etc etc etc
>
>dont use it on anyhting designed for food
>
>
>
>
>At 09:25 29/06/98 EDT, you wrote:
>>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>>Paul,
>>thanks for answering what I realize was probably a dumb question from
>>someone who doesn't quite know what she's up to with clay, yet! But
>while
>>I'm at it, you do tile, no? You probably know something about glazes
>that
>>break well over carving, yes? Well, could you suggest possibly a good
>basic
>>recipe that is not shiny/glossy that would break over carving, either
>low
>>or midfire range? Or where I might look for such recipes? I do have
>your
>>rasberry matt, is that one? It's funny because I keep saying I don't
>really
>>want to get into glazes at this point, would rather work with form,
>but I
>>seem also to be interested in surface texture, digging into the clay
>upon a
>>form.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Centa
>> ----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>>> Paul,
>>> Would you say this is a good basic setup for low fire as well?
>>
>>Basically, but you would need more fluxes and less of the refractory
>>stuff like silica and kaolin. Also, some of the fluxes, like
>feldspar
>>and talc and barium carbonate wouldn't do you much good. You'd
>>probably be better off getting more frits.
>>Paul Lewing
>>
>>
>cheers :) Ray Carlton
>
>McMahons Creek Victoria Australia
>
>
>
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Ray Carlton on thu 2 jul 98
I fire it to cone 13... you will have to try it.... I know it is ok around
cone 9...I think this is one of derek smiths' glazes...I cant recall...it
has been in my glaze book for many years
At 08:33 01/07/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Ray--
>Is this a cone 6 oxidation glaze? I love the surface that barium gives...
>Sandy
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ray Carlton [SMTP:rcarlton@valylink.net.au]
>Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 1998 10:38 AM
>To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
>Subject: Re: glazes that break well
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>get used to it centa...glaze [surface treatment] is a part of the process
>and once you begin discussions on how do I get this effect or what type of
>glaze should I use to get another effect your are already into glazes..We
>could send off a heap of recipes to you but none would be of much use as
>they fire differently in different kilns and temperatures...
>frinstance here is a fovourite of mine
>
>barium oxide 50
>feldspar 50
>kaolin 50
>
>very dry surface and responds well to additions of
>iron 1- 5
>copper1-5
>manganese1-5
>glaze stains5-15 etc etc etc
>
>dont use it on anyhting designed for food
>
>
>
>
>At 09:25 29/06/98 EDT, you wrote:
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>Paul,
>>thanks for answering what I realize was probably a dumb question from
>>someone who doesn't quite know what she's up to with clay, yet! But while
>>I'm at it, you do tile, no? You probably know something about glazes that
>>break well over carving, yes? Well, could you suggest possibly a good basic
>>recipe that is not shiny/glossy that would break over carving, either low
>>or midfire range? Or where I might look for such recipes? I do have your
>>rasberry matt, is that one? It's funny because I keep saying I don't really
>>want to get into glazes at this point, would rather work with form, but I
>>seem also to be interested in surface texture, digging into the clay upon a
>>form.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Centa
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>> Paul,
>>> Would you say this is a good basic setup for low fire as well?
>>
>>Basically, but you would need more fluxes and less of the refractory
>>stuff like silica and kaolin. Also, some of the fluxes, like feldspar
>>and talc and barium carbonate wouldn't do you much good. You'd
>>probably be better off getting more frits.
>>Paul Lewing
>>
>>
>cheers :) Ray Carlton
>
>McMahons Creek Victoria Australia
>
>
>
>
cheers :) Ray Carlton
McMahons Creek Victoria Australia
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