Jim Kassebaum on thu 2 jul 98
Marley, in response to your 6/28 posting:
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have been looking at various tile setters... Does anyone have a
recommendation?
--
In 1996 a longtime local tile maker in conjunction with one of the major
tile manufactures in Southern California developed an "open air" tile rack
which has really caught on. It has several benefits over traditional tile
setters.
It is adjustable, thereby making it practical for virtually any size or
thickness tile. And secondly, it is "low mass" which means your kiln
expends less time and energy heating up the rack than it would with an old
fashion tile setter. The open air rack utilizes solid refractory end pieces
along with high temperature pins for the setting surface. Of course the low
mass design also makes the rack lighter, therefore easier and more
convenient to pick up and move around. It is pictured and described on page
128 of the Laguna catalog. A separate flyer is also available.
Jim Kassebaum /Laguna Clay Co
800.452.4862/626.330.0631/Fax: 333.7694
jim@lagunaclay.com www.lagunaclay.com
Marion Barnes-Schwartz. on wed 27 jan 99
I have been making a wide variety of tiles and was looking for more flexible
tile setters than I already have to use in the kiln for glaze firing. I have
catalogues for Bailey's and Ceramic Supply of New Jersey. I would appreciate
learning about good sources for such firing equipment. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Marion
Denver, NY
BARNSCHWA@aol.com
Nancy Guido on fri 19 jan 01
Hi,
I don't know about tile setters that go to cone 10, I only fire to cone 6. I
guess my concern for your project would be the height and weight of your
stack of tiles during the drying process. With experience I have found that
sometimes when you have too many sheets of drywall with clay stacked on top
of one another it gets quite heavy and damp and a couple of things can
happen, one the drywall gets really wet and falls apart as you try to walk
off with your tiles. Two, the dried tiles on the bottom can crack because of
the weight of the stuff on top.
My other thought for your project is that you don't need to go to cone 10 for
frost proof tiles. I have a terracotta that is frost-proof at cone 2 and
fires to cone 6. I have several examples in my back yard here in Michigan
where the weather is more winter than not and lately rarely above 32 degrees.
You would have to check the absorption of your clay body and I think
instructions for that can be found in the archives as well as what the
percentage needs to be to be frost proof.
Good luck!
Nancy G.
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