taracady@mindspring.com on mon 6 jul 98
I have a friend new to clay, who enrolled in a class. She made an
oversized tile (19" x 12") that she carved a design into. She intended to
cut it apart into smaller sections, but it reached the brittle
leather-hard stage before she cut it. She asked me what to do, and I gave
her my opinion. Her teacher gave another opinion. For the sake of
curiosity, I will hold off on our various opinions and ask y'all to tell
us what you think she should do to best complete the piece, especially in
drying and bisquing.
Marcia Selsor on tue 7 jul 98
Either put it on a little grog on a 12 x 24 shelf or stand it on it's side and
fire it. A few years back it was suggested on clayart to fire upright slabs on
a bit of fiberfax.(use cautiously with mask, gloves) I have tried this
suggestion and it helps. My slabs go up to 26 x 23 inches maximum size I can
fit into my current raku kiln.
I have begun bisque firing slabs leaning against tile setters.
Marcia in Montana
taracady@mindspring.com wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have a friend new to clay, who enrolled in a class. She made an
> oversized tile (19" x 12") that she carved a design into. She intended to
> cut it apart into smaller sections, but it reached the brittle
> leather-hard stage before she cut it. She asked me what to do, and I gave
> her my opinion. Her teacher gave another opinion. For the sake of
> curiosity, I will hold off on our various opinions and ask y'all to tell
> us what you think she should do to best complete the piece, especially in
> drying and bisquing.
Andrew Lubow on tue 7 jul 98
Why not use a coping or jewelers saw to cut the sections?
-----Original Message-----
From: taracady@mindspring.com
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Date: Monday, July 06, 1998 8:09 AM
Subject: Big Tile Question
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have a friend new to clay, who enrolled in a class. She made an
oversized tile (19" x 12") that she carved a design into. She intended to
cut it apart into smaller sections, but it reached the brittle
leather-hard stage before she cut it. She asked me what to do, and I gave
her my opinion. Her teacher gave another opinion. For the sake of
curiosity, I will hold off on our various opinions and ask y'all to tell
us what you think she should do to best complete the piece, especially in
drying and bisquing.
Sandra K. Tesar on tue 7 jul 98
I make tiles that are at a maximum of 15 by 30 inches. I etch designs
into them. Sometimes the slabs are more dry, and occasionally bone dry
before I get to them. I cut them apart when I am done. Be they leather,
brittle or bone. I seldom lose anything, and as for carvings that may
chip - a small piece of clay and water/vinegar will reattach and not
cause damage to the over all piece should this occur.
To cut - use one of those snap off utility knives that sell for a dollar
a piece. You can extend the blade as far as you need through the clay -
it makes a fine clean cut . Lana Wilson taught me this one and I am
forever grateful.
Sandra on Keel Mountain
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
Earl Brunner on tue 7 jul 98
If the piece still contains dampness, and the cuts are straight lines use an
old crosscut wood saw, that you don't mind gumming up a bit, alternatively,
you can spray with a mister and slowly rehydrate the clay and cut it, I
wouldn't though. Earl Brunner
Joy Holdread on tue 7 jul 98
In a message dated 98-07-06 09:09:45 EDT, you write:
> have a friend new to clay, who enrolled in a class. She made an
> oversized tile (19" x 12") that she carved a design into. She intended to
> cut it apart into smaller sections, but it reached the brittle
> leather-hard stage before she cut it. She asked me what to do, and I gave
> her my opinion. Her teacher gave another opinion. For the sake of
> curiosity, I will hold off on our various opinions and ask y'all to tell
> us what you think she should do to best complete the piece, especially in
> drying and bisquing.
>
# 1 do you have a kiln shelf large enough to fire it flat? If so score the
back gently & bisque fire it on a thin slab of the same clay, glaze fire it on
the same. I'd not call it brittle & leather hard at the same time, I'm
betting it was dryer than leather.
# 2 you don't have a kiln shelf large enough. Gently, slowly score it where
the cuts were planned, repeat & repeat until it breaks along those lines.
# 3 the carving time is just way to much of an investment to risk. Build a
wet clay box around it & cast a plaster of Paris mold of the original tile &
reproduce it as a press mold to your heats content.
OK OK what are the other suggestions?
JOY in really wet Tucson
Lorca Beebe on tue 7 jul 98
Fire It Away!!!!The largest tile I did was 18 x 24. Provided She treated the
slab correctly. Slabs have memory and will retain things done to them. But if
she really wants it in pieces, you can cut it with a ruler and snap it like
sheet rock or a cookie.
Lorca
Judith Musicant on wed 8 jul 98
I don't do tiles, but when a piece of mine has dried out more than I like
for trimming or putting on a handle, I wrap it in damp (not wringing wet)
paper towels and then wrap it in plastic. Usually only a few minutes is
necessary. The piece is then returned to leather hard, or even softer if
wrapped too wet or for too long. Don't know if this technique would cause
a problem for tiles. Good luck.
Judy
| |
|
