Craig Martell on thu 16 jul 98
Hi:
As some of you know, I'm laid up with a broken wrist. I may get the cast
off in about a week, but maybe not until Aug 25th. Anyway, I work alone and
I've always been a wheel person and a bit of a handbuilder and when I'm not
able to make pots, I don't have an income. Luckily, I did really well at a
show in May and have some cash in the cooler.
I think I need to look at alternative methods of making, in case this
happens again, or my ability to throw has been changed by my injury. So I'm
wondering if any of you could tell me about jiggering units that you've used
and liked. I do a lot of bowls, dinnerware, large platters, and some other
stuff that I could jigger. I could actually run a jigger unit now even with
the cast on but I can't possibly throw anything. Bummer!!
Direct e-mails are fine if any of you care to respond.
Thanx, Craig Martell-Oregon
Ben Morrison on thu 23 feb 12
Hi all,
I've been interested in a jiggering machine for a while now for making plat=
es and platters and large bowls. Does anyone have experience in jiggering f=
irst hand, who can recommend how to go about buying or building a quality j=
iggering machine with out breaking the bank?
Thanks,
Ben
Lis Allison on thu 23 feb 12
On February 23, 2012, Ben Morrison wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I've been interested in a jiggering machine for a while now for making
> plates and platters and large bowls.
I don't have experience with making such a machine but I have some
experience in using one. BTW, the process of making plates, which is
usually done on the outsides of plaster molds, is called Jolleying, I
believe.
The biggest problem is getting the molds. Making them ain't easy and while
you can get them made, they are expensive. So you are stuck with one shape
for each different item. Poor molds do not work, your clay slab will
buckle every time.
For a small studio, bowls are more easily thrown. Unless you need them all
exactly the same, of course.
My biggest worry about the process, besides getting a little tired of
defending myself for using it, is that my machine is very old and the
electric motor is in bad shape. I live in fear of it dying! Logically, any
other electric motor of the same size should work, but I dread the
business of finding out! Hope it goes another year....
Lis
ps. Why do I have to defend it? Because some potters feel that jolleyed
plates are not 'hand made'. I think they are just as hand made as dishes
built over/in plaster molds, and my customers like the even, stackable
plates which they can afford.
--
Elisabeth Allison
Pine Ridge Studio
website: www.pine-ridge.ca
Pottery blog: www.studio-on-the-ridge.blogspot.com
Garden blog: www.garden-on-the-ridge.blogspot.com
Wyndham Dennison on fri 24 feb 12
I have one of the jigger systems based on a jigger arm attached to a
wheel. I use a slab of clay draped and trimmed over "SlumpHump" plaster
plate mold.
My problem is in the clay not releasing from the plaster plate hump
mold. After struggling with the hump mold I may have to choose to make a
slump mold unless someone knows a release agent that I can apply to the
plaster to relieve the clay catching where the rim meets the bottom.
I can see that any restriction to the clay as it dries is an issue that
can drive one crazy.
I offer this both as an example of a steep learning curve in jiggering
and a request for the return of my sanity :)
Wyndham
Clyde Tullis on fri 24 feb 12
Ben,
I built a jiggler/jolley with steel parts from the scrap yard ($10) and a=
=3D
n old CXC=3D20
Brent wheel using the diagrams in =3D93The Potter=3D92s Alternative=3D94 by=
Har=3D
ry Davis. The=3D20
mold making system was fashioned after the Radcliff system only using pla=
=3D
ster=3D20
(desite) instead of the spun aluminum for the case mold. We used this ma=
=3D
chine=3D20
to make 1000=3D92s of terra cotta bird feeders for Mudlark Pottery.
I had to go this route for financial reasons after a particularly intense=
=3D
production=3D20
period resulted in carpal tunnel symptoms.
Clyde Tullis
http://www.clydetullis.com
Craig Rhodes on fri 24 feb 12
Wyndham,
I'm using the same system as you including the SlumpHump molds. I had th=
=3D
e=3D20
same problem that you describe regarding clay not releasing from the mold=
=3D
,=3D20
specifically where the rim of a plate meets the mold. What works for me =
=3D
is=3D20
when the clay has become soft leatherhard, I take a Mudtools stainless ri=
=3D
b,=3D20
which are very thin and flexible, and run/slide it underneath the rim whe=
=3D
re the=3D20
clay meets the plaster in order to break the seal. When the seal is brok=
=3D
en,=3D20
the rest of the plate will eventually release on its own. A proviso...it=
=3D
has to=3D20
be done carefully in order to avoid any bending or distortion of the rim=3D=
20=3D
otherwise the plate will reflect the distortion after firing.
I hope this helps.
Craig Rhodes
www.craigrhodes.us
On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 10:34:27 -0500, Wyndham Dennison=3D20
wrote:
>I have one of the jigger systems based on a jigger arm attached to a
>wheel. I use a slab of clay draped and trimmed over "SlumpHump" plaster
>plate mold.
> My problem is in the clay not releasing from the plaster plate hump
>mold. After struggling with the hump mold I may have to choose to make a=
=3D
>slump mold unless someone knows a release agent that I can apply to the
>plaster to relieve the clay catching where the rim meets the bottom.
>I can see that any restriction to the clay as it dries is an issue that
>can drive one crazy.
>I offer this both as an example of a steep learning curve in jiggering
>and a request for the return of my sanity :)
>Wyndham
Ben Morrison on fri 24 feb 12
Yes there are many release agents to use on plaster, but the =3D
Wyndham,=3D0A=3D0AYes there are many release agents to use on plaster, but =
the =3D
key is probably water. If your clay is wet on the surface as you apply it t=
=3D
o the plaster it will stick and not release well later. You will have crack=
=3D
ing as the clay tries to shrink but is bound to the mold. Your mold must no=
=3D
t have undercuts in it either. If there is a place for the clay to shrink a=
=3D
round it will cling on and not release. If you don't have an undercut and a=
=3D
re using a dry slab you can try another trick which is coating the bottom o=
=3D
f your slab with fine grog to further dry the surface. This might not be a =
=3D
desirable thing to do for your work, but it keeps slabs from sticking to th=
=3D
ings. I use grog in the fashion when doing slump molds out of slabs. It can=
=3D
cause the clay to move around in a mold as the fine grog can act like ball=
=3D
bearings. I usually apply the grog and give it a couple slaps on the clean=
=3D
part of my bench to adhere any grog to the clay and knock off any loose gr=
=3D
og that
will continue to act like ball bearings. It helps placement in a slump mol=
=3D
d as well as adjustment and will stop adhesion.=3D0A=3D0ABest of luck,=3D0A=
Ben Mo=3D
rrison=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A________________________________=3D0A From: Wyndham De=
nnison <=3D
wynpotter@EMBARQMAIL.COM>=3D0ATo: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG =3D0ASent: Frida=
y, F=3D
ebruary 24, 2012 7:34 AM=3D0ASubject: Jiggering=3D0A =3D0AI have one of the=
jigge=3D
r systems based on a=3DA0 jigger arm attached to a=3D0Awheel. I use a slab =
of c=3D
lay draped and trimmed over "SlumpHump" plaster=3D0Aplate mold.=3D0AMy prob=
lem =3D
is in the clay not releasing from the plaster plate hump=3D0Amold. After st=
ru=3D
ggling with the hump mold I may have to choose to make a=3D0Aslump mold unl=
es=3D
s someone knows a release agent that I can apply to the=3D0Aplaster to reli=
ev=3D
e the clay catching where the rim meets the bottom.=3D0AI can see that any =
re=3D
striction to the clay as it dries is an issue that=3D0Acan drive one crazy.=
=3D
=3D0AI offer this both as an example of a steep learning curve in jiggering=
=3D
=3D0Aand a request for the return of my sanity :)=3D0AWyndham
Wally Clement on fri 24 feb 12
I worked with Bill Creitz who is a studio potter now working in Oakland, CA
on a "How To" video on Jiggering and Jolleying stoneware and porcelain. Th=
e
DVD shows a setup he built in his studio, and covers a lot of ground with
the Jiggering process. The video is available on eBay now. Search "Bill
Creitz Jiggering" and the item page will come up.
Wally Clement
ClementProductions.com
Ralph Loewenthal on sat 25 feb 12
Hi could putting a piece of newspaper over the hump mould before
putting the clay not help?
--
Kind regards from
Fay, and Ralph Loewenthal
972 (Fay) (0) 546989294
972 (Ralph) (0) 547320546
972 (home) (0) 747024530
It is not when you get old, you stop playing. It is when you stop
playing you get old.
Do not forget that you're never too old to have a happy childhood.
| |
|
