Little Blue House Pottery on fri 31 jul 98
Following is the information that everyone has been requesting of me. I
have not yet bought any of these pumps but these will be the one's I do
purchase when I get some money!!! ( My husband is an advid fish tank man
and says after looking at all the pumps available this will be the best and
smallest and operates in a minumal amount of water. )
Now for a return favor I have a question. When you make your fountains,
have you found a good way to treat the electric cord? Right now I'm
hanging mine off the back for lack of a better method and would love to
find a way to hide it.
http://www.petwhse.com
Contacting Customer Service:
Personalized customer service is available from 9 AM to 7 PM EST, Mon. -
Sat. at (800) 443-1160 or (937) 428-6500. Or you can E-mail questions,
comments or suggestions to custserv@petwhse.com.
Pet Warehouse Search Results
Item No:
517618
Description:
New MICRO-JET 320
Price:
13.29
Qty for Discount:
Discount Price:
Actual Freight:
No
Manufacturer:
Aquarium Systems, Inc.
Warranty:
12 month.
Product Information:
This is a very small waterpump
designed to work in as little as 1/2in of
standing water. Perfect for use
in terrarium waterfalls, or small
fountains.The only moving part
is the impeller and it has a grated cover
over the water intake to
protect the impeller from larger pieces of dirt.
Uses four suction cups to
attach it firmly to the bottom of the tank. Uses a
stainless steel shaft and comes
with two additional adapters to adjust the
flow rate from 32 or 48 or 73
GPH. It has a maximum head height of
15in. Dimensions: 1 3/4in x 1
1/4in x 1 3/4in for the body of the pump.
The outlet extends 1/2in above
the pump. It will fit 1/2in ID flexible
tubing. The power cord is a
3-prong grounded, heavy duty cord, 72in
long. Motor: Rated at 6 Watts.
UL approved. Accessories: Comes with
two flow restrictors to adjust
the flow rate to either 32 or 48 GPH
Accessories Needed: You can use
1/2in ID flexible tubing on the outlet
Christi Grame
Little Blue House Pottery
Specializing in fountains, windchimes and functional pottery
rcgrame@midusa.net
Mike Gordon on sat 1 aug 98
Hi,
I have been cutting a hole about the size of a quarter in the green
ware, big enough to put the plug through after firing, and run the cord
through and seal with rubber based silicone which can surrive under
water. Take some sand paper and rough the cord up a little so the
silicone grabs better. You can cut the hole smaller if you want to put
another plug on after cutting it off. Mike
Peter Atwood on mon 3 aug 98
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> Now for a return favor I have a question. When you make your fountains,
> have you found a good way to treat the electric cord? Right now I'm
> hanging mine off the back for lack of a better method and would love to
> find a way to hide it.
>
>
> Christi Grame
> Little Blue House Pottery
> Specializing in fountains, windchimes and functional pottery
> rcgrame@midusa.net
>
> Hi Clayarters!
Thought I'd share a cord hiding method. This is the best that I've come up with
Cut a hole in the side of your base (or the bottom if you have a deep footring)
Find a drilled rubber stopper that will fit the hole tightly. These stoppers are
Slice the cord vertically so that you can slide your cord inside. Then position
Good luck with your fountainmaking!
--Peter Atwood
-----
Original Message: http://www.findmail.com/list/clayart/?start=29592
Start a FREE email list at http://www.FindMail.com/
Mark Heimann on tue 4 aug 98
I visited a studio recently where the guy (Will Maddox, Cheshire, OR) had
invented a really cool way to flip big slabs. His slab roller fed slabs on
to a table that had a double top, with a piano hinge on one long side. Slab
on table, put equal size board on top of said slab, and "open the table"
like a door, flipping slab onto a rolling cart next to the slab table.
Really slick, no juggling big plywood/clay sandwiches, no back tweaking,
even on those 1" slabs currently being discussed. I plan to build one
myself, during my current studio remodel.
Mark Heimann, in sunny (really!) Oregon
----------
> From: Peter Atwood
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: Re: Fountain pumps info and question
> Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 8:04 AM
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >
> > Now for a return favor I have a question. When you make your
fountains,
> > have you found a good way to treat the electric cord? Right now I'm
> > hanging mine off the back for lack of a better method and would love to
> > find a way to hide it.
> >
> >
> > Christi Grame
> > Little Blue House Pottery
> > Specializing in fountains, windchimes and functional pottery
> > rcgrame@midusa.net
> >
> > Hi Clayarters!
>
> Thought I'd share a cord hiding method. This is the best that I've come
up with
>
> Cut a hole in the side of your base (or the bottom if you have a deep
footring)
>
> Find a drilled rubber stopper that will fit the hole tightly. These
stoppers are
>
> Slice the cord vertically so that you can slide your cord inside. Then
position
>
> Good luck with your fountainmaking!
>
> --Peter Atwood
>
> -----
> Original Message: http://www.findmail.com/list/clayart/?start=29592
> Start a FREE email list at http://www.FindMail.com/
Bonnie Staffel on tue 4 aug 98
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >
> > Now for a return favor I have a question. When you make your fountains,
> > have you found a good way to treat the electric cord? Right now I'm
> > hanging mine off the back for lack of a better method and would love to
> > find a way to hide it.
> >
> >
> > Christi Grame
> > Little Blue House Pottery
> > Specializing in fountains, windchimes and functional pottery
> > rcgrame@midusa.net
> >
> > Hi Clayarters!
>
> Thought I'd share a cord hiding method. This is the best that I've come up wit
>
> Cut a hole in the side of your base (or the bottom if you have a deep footring
>
> Find a drilled rubber stopper that will fit the hole tightly. These stoppers a
>
> Slice the cord vertically so that you can slide your cord inside. Then positio
>
> Good luck with your fountainmaking!
>
> --Peter Atwood
>
> -----
> Original Message: http://www.findmail.com/list/clayart/?start=29592
> Start a FREE email list at http://www.FindMail.com/
>
>Dear Clayarters,
Went to an art fair Sunday and there were small fountains bubbling away - and no
The rubber stoppers mentioned previously are chemistry lab equipment and/or wine
Bonnie Staffel
-----
Original Message: http://www.findmail.com/list/clayart/?start=29740
Start a FREE email list at http://www.FindMail.com/
Robert Edney on wed 5 aug 98
Little Blue House Pottery wrote:
> Now for a return favor I have a question. When you make your fountains,
> have you found a good way to treat the electric cord? Right now I'm
> hanging mine off the back for lack of a better method and would love to
> find a way to hide it.
Hi,
I treat the cord in a couple of ways. The first, as you've already figured
out, is to simply let it dangle out the back. This works even better when the
fountain design serves to obscure the cord. I have also designed fountains
where there is a hole above the water line but below the rim. The hole is
sized to be slightly larger than the cord. This necessitates cutting off the
plug and replacing it with an approved type with screw terminals, easy enough
to do, but a possible challenge for your customers if they need to have the
pump repaired or replaced. The third is to put the pump in a reservoir
underneath the main bowl. This requires a tight fitting hole below the water
line, with a carefully applied bead of "Plumber's Goop" on both sides. The
exiting cord must also be protected from strain in some way, to avoid twisting
the "Goop" seal and causing a leak. I've made several fountains with this
arrangement, and none have leaked. Whatever you do, remember that pumps are
not forever, and -- eventually -- they will fail. This is a darned good reason
to buy a quality pump in the first place. In other words, however you install
the pump, someone will need to get it out and replace it someday. To see a few
examples of the fountains I've made, check out my brand new website at the URL
below my signature. Stay dry! Or, given the weather here today, maybe it
should be "Get Wet"! Just make sure everything's plugged into a ground fault
detecting outlet first :)
Robert Edney
robedney@pacbell.net
http://home.pacbell.net/robedney/index.html
BBC on wed 5 aug 98
Hi Mark,
Can you answer a few questions for me. In regards to the fountains, where is
a good place to get the pumps, and how much , I found some for 23.00, Little
Giant Brand, this seems like alot. I would appreciate any ideas you might
have. Are there any books on fountains? I'd like to make myself one but not
sure where to start...
Sincerely,
Gloria
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Heimann
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: Fountain pumps info and question
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I visited a studio recently where the guy (Will Maddox, Cheshire, OR) had
>invented a really cool way to flip big slabs. His slab roller fed slabs on
>to a table that had a double top, with a piano hinge on one long side. Slab
>on table, put equal size board on top of said slab, and "open the table"
>like a door, flipping slab onto a rolling cart next to the slab table.
>Really slick, no juggling big plywood/clay sandwiches, no back tweaking,
>even on those 1" slabs currently being discussed. I plan to build one
>myself, during my current studio remodel.
>Mark Heimann, in sunny (really!) Oregon
>
>
>
>
>----------
>> From: Peter Atwood
>> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>> Subject: Re: Fountain pumps info and question
>> Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 8:04 AM
>>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> >
>> > Now for a return favor I have a question. When you make your
>fountains,
>> > have you found a good way to treat the electric cord? Right now I'm
>> > hanging mine off the back for lack of a better method and would love to
>> > find a way to hide it.
>> >
>> >
>> > Christi Grame
>> > Little Blue House Pottery
>> > Specializing in fountains, windchimes and functional pottery
>> > rcgrame@midusa.net
>> >
>> > Hi Clayarters!
>>
>> Thought I'd share a cord hiding method. This is the best that I've come
>up with
>>
>> Cut a hole in the side of your base (or the bottom if you have a deep
>footring)
>>
>> Find a drilled rubber stopper that will fit the hole tightly. These
>stoppers are
>>
>> Slice the cord vertically so that you can slide your cord inside. Then
>position
>>
>> Good luck with your fountainmaking!
>>
>> --Peter Atwood
>>
>> -----
>> Original Message: http://www.findmail.com/list/clayart/?start=29592
>> Start a FREE email list at http://www.FindMail.com/
>
Lynn Koning on thu 6 aug 98
for fountain pumps, try Aquarium Systems, 1-800-822-1100. I started with Ms.
Ginger Gibb, Sales Assistant, and she signed me as an OEM (original equipment
manufacturer) and thus am able to buy wholesale. a case of their small 404
Mini-jet pumps (equal to Little Giant) is 225.12 for 24, or $9.38 each. of
course, if you buy more cases, the price goes down. my fountains are getting
so popular, I might have to buy more cases soon. I make free-form bowls with
a cylinder in the middle with a flower on top--out of which the water comes
and cascades down from the flower. I make magnolias (living in the south you
need these), iris, ivy leaves and sea shells. what style fountain do you
make? in any case, hope this info helps.
| |
|
