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paragon kilns

updated wed 12 aug 98

 

carrie jacobson on thu 6 aug 98

A couple weeks ago, someone from Paragon wrote to this list asking for
feedback on their kilns. I have some...

I work at a local community center, and have been plagued by kiln problems
since I began doing pottery in October. Finally, the old kiln melted, and
was replaced by a very large computerized Paragon kiln, a beautiful thing
to behold. (This was maybe four months ago).

First problem was that the electricity coming into the studio was not what
it had been thought to be, and of course, not the kind the kiln wanted. It
was 208, not 240. So, instead of maybe sending the kiln back or something
(it had been used twice), the studio decided to buy a $500 transformer from
the electric company.

This, of course, is not a kiln issue, but is tied in with the rest of the
story.

The lid on this kiln does not exactly meet the walls of the kiln. Perhaps
this is the way it should be (as I said, I've only been doing this since
October) but it doesn't seem right. When it is firing, I can look across
the room and see the red hot inside glowing. You can stick a thinnish sheet
of cardboard between the lid and the wall. The reason for this seems to be
that the mechanism that holds the outsized kiln handle on (a device that
screws into the back of the lid, then, as a bar, crosses the top of the lid
to end in a handle above the computer) is not set appropriately in the
metal sheath on the kiln. It does not look like it's possible to just
unscrew the bolts and move it, since they go through holes that were
drilled through the works.

Finally, and I believe this may be related to the above, I am starting to
suspect that the kiln is not hitting temperature. A glaze that was supposed
to be clear, in a firing I just did, came out milky and matte in most
places, and clear and shiny only in a few (a cone 6 firing). I'm going to
do another cone 6 firing, with a cone, and see what happens. I am wondering
about the accuracy of the temperature gauge, and what to do if it's not
hitting the correct temp?

So, there's probably more feedback than you ever wanted. But if you have
answers, questions or suggestions, I'd love to hear from you.

Thanks, Carrie


Carrie Jacobson
Pawcatuck, CT
mailto:jacobson@brainiac.com

Kenneth D. Westfall on fri 7 aug 98

The voltage problem is a common screw up and one that a lot of electricians
seem to think is fine. The usual statement I have heard is "It will work
fine, just be a little slow that's all." Well guess what it doesn't
usually work or you feel like your doing a anagama firing just to get to
bisque. A volt/amp meter will put all doubt to rest on if or not the kiln
is correctly running. Low volt or not enough amps being drawn tells you
right fast that there is something not correct.
Many kiln you can see glowing red heat from between the lid and wall
so you need to insure that its a open space not just the brick being hot.
Yours sound like some adjustments are need but a few more firing may let
the lid settle down.
You should always put some cones in the firing for the first few times
to check the accuracy of the pyrometer and too insure you are using a rate
of firing that gives good glaze melts. Glazes maturity is both time and
temperature not just temperature and cones react proportionally to the
time/temp factor.


Kenneth D. Westfall
Pine Hill Pottery
R.D. #2 Box 6AA
Harrisville, WV 26362
pinehill@ruralnet.org

The Kiln Gods on tue 11 aug 98

Hi,
Back from a week off camping with my 2.5 yr old daughter & 6 month old son.
They both loved it.
Just a quick comment about the problems Carrie is having with her Paragon
kiln.
It is quite a common mistake, incompatible voltage in the kiln vs. the
incoming voltage in the building, made sometimes by the customer ordering
the wrong voltage & sometimes by the kiln manufacturer not asking what the
"actual voltage" in the building is.
The cheapest way to remedy it is to replace the elements (+/- $150 US
depending on the model).
About the lid. If there is not room for the lid to move up & down (at the
hinge), about 1/8 - 1/4", the lid can open during the firing. The side
walls rise up a bit when the bricks expand as they heat. There are still
good & bad sealing lids but most have a bit of glow when hot.
Chris @
Euclid's Kilns and Elements
1-800-296-5456
Web Site: http://www.euclids.com
E-Mail: mail@euclids.com