Russel Fouts on wed 5 aug 98
Claudia,
>>Your posting about the saggar in a garbage can has interested me. I have
wanted to find a way to do saggar fires without destroying my one and only
kiln. Could this be a way? What do you do? <<
I don't know, I haven't used them yet but I imagine that I'll wash them
inside with a sodium resistant wash, fillemup with pots and newspapers,
throw in a little sodium bicarb and toast'em. The particulars will come when
I see what I get.
>>BTW...I still very much appreciate the information you gave me about pit
firing shortly after I had discovered Clayart! <<
Thanks
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
32 2 223 02 75
Http://users.skynet.be/russel.fouts
Http://www.japan-net.or.jp/~iwcat
Please send all replies publicly
redon on fri 12 mar 99
Greetings,
I am looking for any information and/or starting a discussion on sagger
firing.
What I am most interested in is getting more pinks and peach blushes with fewer
blacks, what items to use and how long to fire, etc..
What has your experiences been what method of sagger did you use etc...
So if anyone is interested please feel free to post or e-mail.
Best Wishes,
-el
Dale A. Neese on sun 14 mar 99
Ah, I just thumbed through the latest copy of Clay Times magazine and Simon
Levin has an article on saggar firing. I have a saggar loaded with some
porcelain and stoneware cooling down from a cone 10 yesterday. Won't see it
until Tuesday.
Later,
Dale Tex
-----Original Message-----
From: redon
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Saturday, March 13, 1999 1:56 PM
Subject: Saggar
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Greetings,
> I am looking for any information and/or starting a discussion on sagger
>firing.
>What I am most interested in is getting more pinks and peach blushes with
fewer
>blacks, what items to use and how long to fire, etc..
>
>What has your experiences been what method of sagger did you use etc...
>So if anyone is interested please feel free to post or e-mail.
>Best Wishes,
>-el
>
Alex Pomianek on mon 15 mar 99
my name is alex pomianek i'm from wenatchee wa. i am a former student of wen.
vally college. my teacher was Ruth Allan. she has been doing sagger firing for
many years. she wrote an artical for ceramics monthly on sagger firing which i
think might be of some help to you. it is in the january 1992 issue of the
afor menchened mag. your local library should have a copy or be able to get it
for you. if not i could send you a copy or fax it to you. if that is what you
would like send me your address or and i will send it to you.
i hope this will help you in your quest.
alex
j e motzkin on wed 30 jan 02
Jeff,
I would go back to bisking but no higher than 08. I bisk
my earthennware at 09 now. Cone six is definitely too
high.
I can't really say how much copper or salt i put in a
load, too many variables. I vary things from firing to
firing to get a variety of results. Describe your saggar
and kiln set up to me, maybe I can help some more.
There are three variables beyond what you put in the
kiln: time, temperature and atmosphere. This applies to
all firings of course. Alter one or all of these in
various ways to experiment. I have been through times
when I could not get the color I wanted. I tried
everything and when I finally got something I liked, my
scientist husband asked "what did you change?" I answered
with a list of changes. He said "you're only supposed to
change one thing at a time". Ah... the difference between
scientific process and artistic process.
Judy
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annsemple on mon 29 nov 04
Okay Louis
I think I need references for these definitions!
>>Saggar: 1. Old horse. 2. a person who's chin has sired a child. 3. a
kiln shelf that has gotten old and curved.
Blunger: 1. plumbers friend, plastered. A drink made from equal parts
Ouzo, nopalito juice, and Creme de Menthe, served in a copper mug. :) A
berson who goes blungee jumbing.<<
Ann
Sumi von Dassow on wed 13 oct 10
Linda
The dark lines come from steel wool or copper scrub pads draped over the
pot. You'll get darker colors if you leave less
space between the two pieces of the saggar. Color will come from salt,
copper carbonate, and ferric chloride.
Sumi
> Hello potters,
> I am not able to mass produce like I once did, but I do hand build stil=
l (the
> wheel is out for now) and I am struggling with saggar fireing. I am askin=
g for
> some of your secrets. I know of a few things to add, salt, ash, different
> chemicals, just off the top of my head,the rest of my head is asleep righ=
t now,
> and I don't want to wake it, it might get mad HA HA.But I'm not getting t=
he
> colors I want, and I don't know how to get the dark lines some people get=
,
> unless you unwrap it and put horse hair on it while it is still hot. I re=
ally
> think the look of a solid color pot (mostly) with a mix of other colors
> scattered and dark lines coming from the top down looks good. Some one wh=
o has a
> real talent has one like that and I have no idea how to imitate that. The=
more
> color the better for me. It doesn't have to consist of a single color or =
be
> multicolored, I'm not picky, just color, rich, mine is diluted. I use cof=
fee
> grounds,and it helps. Maybe I'm not wrapping and sealing it tight enough,=
there
> is no dark on the pot and I use a wood fire.
> Any help would be appreciated! You all are great!
> Linda
>
>
>
>
>
--
Sumi von Dassow
www.herwheel.com
sumi@herwheel.com
Stephani Stephenson on wed 13 oct 10
Linda=3D20
i use to do a lot of saggar firing. large sculptural pieces. i interspers=
=3D
ed
vegetation ( grasses, leaves, seaweed,manure, etc, with areas of soft
brick, bisque shards etc, so that i would have contrasting reduced and
oxidized areas on the piece. this encouraged variation in clay color and=
=3D
flashing.
sometimes I soaked sawdust in salt and baking soda, and even some soluble=
=3D
salts of copper or iron.
I also made little color 'bombs', by wrapping numerous small newspaper
packets containing mixtures of oxides (usually yellow iron oxide or coppe=
=3D
r
carbonate or sulfates of either) and salt, baking soda and/or epsom salts=
=3D
.
iwould place these next to the piece at various locations. one incredible=
=3D
source of copper is banana peels. they have almost all been saturated wit=
=3D
h a
copper , i think it is a copper preemergent spray and are LOADED with cop=
=3D
per
(kind of creepy when you think about them as food , but great in a saggar=
=3D
firing).=3D20
you can also place glazed or stained shards or tiles next to the piece=
=3D
and the colorant from them will sometimes flash onto the adjacent work.
i am trying to remember the temperatures i fired to . i believe from cone=
=3D
one to cone three. i used a buff to cream color clay. burnished areas sho=
=3D
wed
color better, though most of my work was not burnished. my forms were
organic and the effect i was after was pretty loose. i was happy with the=
=3D
results though i could , of course, never entirely predict what would
happen. i use to build saggars out of brick inside the kiln itself.
really enjoyed the process.=3D20
Stephani
Linda Mccaleb on wed 13 oct 10
=3DA0=3DA0 Hello potters,=3D0A=3DA0 I am not able to mass produce like I on=
ce did, =3D
but I do hand build still (the =3D0Awheel is out for now) and I am struggli=
ng=3D
with saggar fireing. I am asking for =3D0Asome of your secrets. I know of =
a =3D
few things to add, salt, ash, different =3D0Achemicals, just off the top of=
m=3D
y head,the rest of=3DA0my head is asleep right now, =3D0Aand I don't want t=
o wa=3D
ke it, it might get mad HA HA.But I'm not getting the =3D0Acolors I want, a=
nd=3D
I don't know how to get the dark lines some people get, =3D0Aunless you un=
wr=3D
ap it and put horse hair on it while it is still hot. I really =3D0Athink t=
he=3D
look of a solid color pot (mostly) with a mix of other colors =3D0Ascatter=
ed=3D
and dark lines coming from the top down looks good. Some one who has a =3D=
0A=3D
real talent has one like that and I have no idea how to imitate that. The m=
=3D
ore =3D0Acolor the better for me. It doesn't have to consist of a single co=
lo=3D
r or be =3D0Amulticolored, I'm not picky, just color, rich, mine is diluted=
. =3D
I use coffee =3D0Agrounds,and it helps. Maybe I'm not wrapping and sealing =
it=3D
tight enough, there =3D0Ais no dark on the pot and I use a wood fire.=3D0A=
=3DA0 =3D
Any help would be appreciated! You all are great!=3D0A=3DA0 Linda=3D0A=3D0A=
=3D0A =3D
Dannon Rhudy on wed 13 oct 10
Linda said:
..I am struggling with saggar fireing. ... know of a few things to add,
salt, ash, different
chemicals...
I used to saggar fire a lot, and learned a few
things regarding color in the firing.
If you want to use salt or copper to good effect,
the fire has to be hot enough to volatize them.
That's true of all chemicals in saggar fires. They
do no good if it doesn't get hot enough. I fired
to a minimum of 1500F, and usually went to cone
010 (about 1625F, or so).
Salt will produce reds and pinks at that temp
(sometimes; saggar fires are iffy always). Copper
carb can create reds and pinks too. If you want
a dark line, try pulling apart some fine (XXXX)
steel wool (not soap pads, but just the plain steel
wool from the hardware store). Wrap a strand or two
around the pot; you'll get a rich dark brown from it.
Dried manure (I don't think it matters much what kind,
though personally I like horse or cow manure) can
create a variety of colors. You can even use the
packaged manure from the garden supply store - just
dry it before you use it; it's always damp in the
bag. There are a variety of other substances one
can use for saggar firing; some use charcoal briquets
for rich blacks. Just fire hot enough, let cool
long enough, and see what you get. Like anything
else in ceramics, it takes a while to figure out
the nuances.
I don't see how ash could do much, it's melt point
is pretty high.
best regards
Dannon Rhudy
Allyson May on thu 14 oct 10
Hey Linda,
I have been experimenting with "smoke bombs" from a fireworks place. =3D
These are the little colored balls with a fuse. They don't go boom, =3D
just let off colored smoke when you light them. I pull the fuse and =3D
then crush them with a hammer. I add these to my saggar materials like =3D
I would salt or copper carb. Some of my students got beautiful =3D
iridescent colors at my last workshop. Give them a try and see what you =
=3D
get.
Peace,
Allyson May
www.stoneycreekpottery.com
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