Jim Horvitz on sat 16 jan 99
In glazing some tiles I needed a small amount of bright red and purchased a
small amount of Duncan GL 614 Matadore Red. I fired to cone 06 and the "red
areas" ended clear . Several other 06 glazes fired at the same time were
perfect. The Duncan people were of no use as "all there glazes work every
time" the fault must be mine. Can anyone comment on problems or tricks in
using the Cadmium glazes. My reading leads me to believe that a lower fire
temperature and Oxygen may be the solution. Thanks Jim Horvitz Rancho Mirage
Ca.
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Ren=E9?= Sprattling on sun 17 jan 99
Jim, Many of Duncan's redglazes cannot be fired with glazes containing
copper.
This may be your problem since you mentioned firing several other glazes at
the same time. Try the Brik Red put out by Duncan. It is an Easy Stroke
glaze that comes in those tiny bottles for far too much money for the
amount yu get, (around $3.75 I believe), but it is a very reliable glaze
and will fire to cone7 and stay red. You will need a clear glaze over
unless you want matt.
Rene
Nevada City, CA
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>In glazing some tiles I needed a small amount of bright red and purchased a
>small amount of Duncan GL 614 Matadore Red. I fired to cone 06 and the "red
>areas" ended clear . Several other 06 glazes fired at the same time were
>perfect. The Duncan people were of no use as "all there glazes work every
>time" the fault must be mine. Can anyone comment on problems or tricks in
>using the Cadmium glazes. My reading leads me to believe that a lower fire
>temperature and Oxygen may be the solution. Thanks Jim Horvitz Rancho Mirage
>Ca.
Muddy
John K. Dellow on sun 17 jan 99
Jim , I have seen powered cadmium stains added to cadmium glazes to intensify
the colour. Also brushed onto the still wet glaze after application as a
highlight . You could try experimenting with yellow, & orange brushed over red
cadmium glaze. Also gold bronze ( a black metallic low fire glaze ) looks good
as a highlight on cadmium red.
--
John Dellow "the flower pot man"
ICQ : #2193986 {jacka}
E-mail : dellow@usa.net
25 Hugh Guinea Ct, Worongary Q 4213
Ph:+61-7-55302875 Fax:+61-7-55253585
Home Page : http://welcome.to/jkdellow
John Fazzino on sun 17 jan 99
Hi Jim, When I was firing low fire, Matadore red was one of my favorites. I
always fired with a cone 04 in the sitter and started the kiln switches all on
High. Have you tried a thicker coat of glaze, they recommend 3 coats, which
is what I used, sometimes 2. It's a beautiful red. Good luck. John Fazzino,
Cranston RI
Dai Scott on sun 17 jan 99
I have occasionally used a low-fire commercial red glaze (I'm not in my
studio right now so don't know if it was cadmium or not), and found that if
I didn't apply it thickly enough---they say "three flowing coats"---it would
end up clear; nice finish, but no colour! The solution was to make sure it
was very thick, then it came out red.
Dai Scott - Kelowna, B.C.
Veena Raghavan on mon 18 jan 99
Jim,
I am not an expert at glazes and do not even fire my own ware, as I
work in a group studio. However, I have used Matador Red, and it has been
fired to Cone 06 oxidation in an electric kiln and has come out fine.
Duncan also has a red called Candied Apple Red, not quite as deep as
Matador, but that fires well too. It has been said that if there are Copper
oxide glazes in the same kiln, that can has a bad affect on the reds. Hope
this is of some use to you.
All the best
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Morgan Britt on mon 18 jan 99
I had the same problem with Matador Red going anywhere from clear to white,
sometimes all over. I was told it is very heat sensitive and to make sure it's
fired to a COOL cone 6. As my kiln has a tendency to fire a bit cool on the
bottom shelf, I put all my reds there and have not had a problem since.
Jim Horvitz wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> In glazing some tiles I needed a small amount of bright red and purchased a
> small amount of Duncan GL 614 Matadore Red. I fired to cone 06 and the "red
> areas" ended clear . Several other 06 glazes fired at the same time were
> perfect. The Duncan people were of no use as "all there glazes work every
> time" the fault must be mine. Can anyone comment on problems or tricks in
> using the Cadmium glazes. My reading leads me to believe that a lower fire
> temperature and Oxygen may be the solution. Thanks Jim Horvitz Rancho Mirage
> Ca.
--
Morgan Britt
morgan@unlimited.net
Ann Stecker on mon 18 jan 99
Jim:
Some red glazes need to be painted on bisque, not greenware. You must put two
to three coats on or it will turn gray. The 06 temperature should be fine.
Good Luck!
Annie Stecker
rekcets@open.org
Jim Horvitz wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> In glazing some tiles I needed a small amount of bright red and purchased a
> small amount of Duncan GL 614 Matadore Red. I fired to cone 06 and the "red
> areas" ended clear . Several other 06 glazes fired at the same time were
> perfect. The Duncan people were of no use as "all there glazes work every
> time" the fault must be mine. Can anyone comment on problems or tricks in
> using the Cadmium glazes. My reading leads me to believe that a lower fire
> temperature and Oxygen may be the solution. Thanks Jim Horvitz Rancho Mirage
> Ca.
Rick Sherman on mon 18 jan 99
I realize the discussion of cadmium red and commercial glazes designed
for same concerns glazing tiles, but thought I had better post a
warning concering the use of cadmium red in tableware - especially in
California. State Proposition 65 and State Assembly Bill 3659
established strict guidelines in 1991. They are more stringent than the
FDA requirements. Anyone making, importing or selling tableware in the
state must meet these regulations as to leaching of lead and cadmium or
have a warninhg that these products are not to be used for food. Check
out this website for details:
http://www.childlead.com/tableware/twhome.html
Cadmium red can be used for exterior decoration of cups or mugs as long
as the design is an inch or more below the rim. Williams-Sanoma changed
all its products to meet this specification with no trouble.
If you have questions, feel free to e-mail me directly.
Rick Sherman
San Jose, CA USofA
sheman@ricochet.net
Dana Henson on tue 19 jan 99
Amaco puts out a satin matt red glaze that fires to Cone 06-05. They have a
line of satin matt glazes in their catalog. This one is simply called "red"
and is a tomato red. I found that four coats on a white clay body gave a good
red if you are interested in a satin matt. Incidentally, when I use this
glaze, it is the only color that I put in the kiln other than clear glazes.
Dana Henson
G_Henson@twu.edu
S.K. Tesar on tue 19 jan 99
I used a matador red Duncan about 10 years ago on a small piece...and was
told to apply VERY heavily and fire VERY slowly. This proved to be true.
When I followed those directions ( 3 heavy coats) I got the results, if I
did not, I got clear. If I fired fast ( I was doing raku) I got crawling.
Sandra
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D. McDysan on tue 19 jan 99
These reds usually work best when applied according to directions and
fired in a high oxidation environment. In most cases, it is best to have
the kiln vent on and the peep holes open until cone temperature is
reached, ensuring an oxygen rich atmosphere so the cadmium-selenium
colors can develop completely.
Debbie McDysan
dmcdysan@onramp.net
Mimi Stadler on tue 19 jan 99
Hi Jim-
Duncan GL 614 Matador Red does tend to turn white at 06, unless you apply it
very thickly (in which case you will experience some running of the glaze). I
contacted my supplier about this and they agreed with my assessment. When you
do apply it thickly, it is a bright candy apple red. Be sure and use stilts
if you put it on thick!
Mimi Stadler
Hillside, NJ
Peet Robison on tue 19 jan 99
Hi Jim;
I am a glass- blower now but was a potter years ago. The way glass
people are able to make a Cd/ Se red is to "strike" the color. What
this means is to let the piece cool to around 1200f and then heat it
quickly. Then you must cool again to keep it from "un-striking". This
brings the color from clear yellow or light orange to the dark red. I
have never tried it in a kiln but it might be the cure. On a different
note, striking a copper red is done by holding a piece at the right
temperature to let the red develop, around 12-1400deg F. Very important
for both colors.
Peet in Santa Fe
Rodney George on tue 19 jan 99
Morgan Britt wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I had the same problem with Matador Red going anywhere from clear to white,
> sometimes all over. I was told it is very heat sensitive and to make sure it'
> fired to a COOL cone 6. As my kiln has a tendency to fire a bit cool on the
> bottom shelf, I put all my reds there and have not had a problem since.
>
On the other hand, I have had very little trouble with the M.Red.
I have beat this glaze to death. I have thin the glaze 50/50 with
water, used six coats of glaze. Have fired it in the ranges of
cones 08 to 02, and have done all of this in the raku firing with light
to extreme reduction. I have dunk it in water with in 30 seconds of
leaving the kiln. I have had other commerical and studio glazes
next to it, run through it when its to hot and mix it with other colors.
The only times I have had problems is when I apply it to thin, or fired
it to cone 10.
Rodney
Frank Bosco on tue 19 jan 99
Low fire reds do like alot of air. In fact, I leave the kiln lid propped open
about three inches, or just enough to see inside. Also all the plugs are out
as well. As the heat in the kiln advances keep watch inside, and when you see
that the glaze is starting to flux (it will look somewhat shiny and very dark)
this is the time to close the lid, put in the plugs, and finish it off. I
fire to cone 07 slightly bent.
David Hewitt on thu 21 jan 99
I use a cadmium containing stain called B185 Coral. I add 6% to a clear
transparent glaze and apply thickly. Thickness is important for
achieving a dark red colour. You can see examples of the result on my
web site under 'Pink Lustre' if you are interested.
http://www.dhpot.demon.co.uk
This is fired to cone 8 oxidation over a white stoneware clay, but I see
no reason why it should not work in a cone 6 glaze if required.
David
In message , Dana Henson writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Amaco puts out a satin matt red glaze that fires to Cone 06-05. They have a
>line of satin matt glazes in their catalog. This one is simply called "red"
>and is a tomato red. I found that four coats on a white clay body gave a good
>red if you are interested in a satin matt. Incidentally, when I use this
>glaze, it is the only color that I put in the kiln other than clear glazes.
>
>Dana Henson
>G_Henson@twu.edu
>
--
David Hewitt
David Hewitt Pottery ,
7 Fairfield Road, Caerleon, Newport,
South Wales, NP6 1DQ, UK. Tel:- +44 (0) 1633 420647
FAX:- +44 (0) 870 1617274
Own Web site http://www.dhpot.demon.co.uk
IMC Web site http://digitalfire.com/education/people/hewitt.htm
Ron Roy on mon 25 jan 99
I second Rick's warning about Cadmium.
It is a powerful toxin and regulated in many countries.
Potters who use this oxide should be aware that ingestion or breathing the
fumes - which can be released during firing - can lead to serious adverse
health problems. If you have been firing Cadmium coloured glazes be aware
that unless your kiln is well vented you may have elevated levels and
should be tested for abnormal levels in your blood.
Encapsulated cadmium stains lessen the problem I am sure but I have not
seen the test data.
RR
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I realize the discussion of cadmium red and commercial glazes designed
>for same concerns glazing tiles, but thought I had better post a
>warning concering the use of cadmium red in tableware - especially in
>California. State Proposition 65 and State Assembly Bill 3659
>established strict guidelines in 1991. They are more stringent than the
>FDA requirements. Anyone making, importing or selling tableware in the
>state must meet these regulations as to leaching of lead and cadmium or
>have a warninhg that these products are not to be used for food. Check
>out this website for details:
>http://www.childlead.com/tableware/twhome.html
>
>Cadmium red can be used for exterior decoration of cups or mugs as long
>as the design is an inch or more below the rim. Williams-Sanoma changed
>all its products to meet this specification with no trouble.
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
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