bmshelton.uky on sat 19 sep 98
I'm insearch of a white cone 10 plastic smooth throwing body. I have thrown
Bmix and Armadillo white in the past and am looking for something along
those lines. Due to my location it is not financially workable to buy moist
clay so I will be mixing my own.
I've been given a couple of formulas through clayart (thank you) and have a
couple of my own but most seem to fall a little short in their performance
in that they don't seem to be tight enough. Let me explain that. Most of
these formulas tend to be I'm looking for suggestions on how to modify
their formulae in order to improve their working traits.
Most are made up of Ball clay, flint, EPK, PV and feldspar with various
additives for plasticity such as Bentonite or maccoloid or CMC. This should
be no surprise to anybody(if you'd like the formulas let me know and I'll
post them)
So, I'd like to hear commentary on why anyone thinks these materials don't
stand up and throw well.
How does each maaterials particle size and shape affect it?
Is there a source that can give me an analysis of a materials particle size
and shape?
Does anybody know of a particular brand for any of the given materials that
could be helpful?
Is there a particular type of grog or sand that could be used without
getting a rough feel to the clay??
Are there any other questions I need to ask that will shed some light on
this subject??
Thanks for your input, Ben
Kathi LeSueur on sun 20 sep 98
In a message dated 9/19/98 2:21:33 PM, you wrote:
>I'm insearch of a white cone 10 plastic smooth throwing body. I have thrown
>Bmix and Armadillo white in the past and am looking for something along
>those lines. Due to my location it is not financially workable to buy moist
>clay so I will be mixing my own.
Ben,
I don't know where you live or how much clay you use in a year. But it has
always been my feeling that my clay is the most important element in my work.
In the scheme of things I find clay to also be the least expensive part of my
work. As a result, when I found a clay that was perfect for me while living in
Texas, I felt it was well worth the cost of shipping it to Michigan when I
moved back.
When comparing the price of pre-mixed clay, I could drive 30 miles to Taylor,
MI and buy from a local supplier for just $.24 a pound (based on 5000 pounds).
It would take two trips. Or, for $.26 a pound I can have 5000 pounds of
Armadillo clay delivered to my door. Granted freight goes down the more you
buy. But I'd be willing to pay $.30 or even $.50 a pound for clay that was
right for what I want.
I also would have to factor in the cost of a mixer, the need for a structure
to store materials, and my time in mixing clay. You can buy a lot of clay for
the price of a mixer and your valuable time can be spent in more productive
ways.
Kathi LeSueur
Hank Ray on mon 21 sep 98
hello ....
this is the clay body they use at the Universty of Central Oklahoma....with
Gail Singer as the prof.....
i have not used it but have heard really good things about it.... and i am
told that the #6 tile clay kaolin is the key....
cone 10 clay body......
#6 tile clay.............40
fireclay...................18
custerfeld spar.........18
flint........................18
ball clay..................6
Peter Coates...
City Art Center.... oklahoma city. ok
www.cityartscenter.com
| |
|
