marg on wed 18 nov 98
Hey there Pete,
Here is a suggestion from a previous post to the list.
> Cleaning Raku Glazes
> Of course we all recounted our tales of
> green scrubbie cloths to oven cleaner to brick walls, but Ned had the
> best suggestion yet...
> "Bar Keepers Friend". You don't even have to scrub hard.
> It devolves it right off with a little light scrubbing and water. Ned
> said he believes its the 'oxalic acid' in the cleaner that does the
> trick.
Hope this helps,
Marg (in Baton Rouge)
Beth Yeatman Spindler on thu 19 nov 98
Sprinkle on Comet and rub with a soft, damp cloth...rinse off with
water.......
works great........
David Gordon on fri 20 nov 98
No doubt that "Barkeepers Friend" is more powerful than Bon Ami, etc.
My experience with it is that it will remove the luster on copper
lusters such as Laura's Copper or Hawaiian Blue. Caution advised here.
Works well on crackles whites though.
David Gordon
Seguin, Texas
Bryan Stecker on fri 20 nov 98
TRY BON AMI (A NON SCRATCHING POWDER SOLD IN THE SOAP AISLE OF THE
GROCERY NEXT TO AJAX AND COMET). IT WON'T SCRATCH!
ANNIE STECKER
SALEM, OR
Joseph Herbert on sun 22 nov 98
------------------
Annie Stecker writes: =22Try bon ami (a non scratching powder sold in the =
soap
aisle of the Grocery next to Ajax and comet). It won't scratch=21=22
This is true in a limited sense. The abrasive ingredient in Bon Ami is
feldspar which has a Moh=92s Scratch Hardness of 6. This means that the
abrasive won't scratch any material that has a similar or higher scratch
hardness number. Most glass is in the 6.5 range and the feldspar won't =
damage
it. Quartz, the abrasive ingredient in other scouring cleansers has a
hardness of 7. Quartz will scratch most glasses.
The issue now is how hard is the glaze you are cleaning? One of our other
correspondents suggested using whiting as an abrasive for cleaning. This
material (calcite) has a scratch hardness of 3 and will not scratch even the
most delicate glaze.
A further consideration is whether the stuff on the outside of your raku is
actually a glaze. Some of the =22Matte=22 glazes seem to not have a =
continuous
surface and might be considered a sintered coating rather than a glaze in =
the
normal sense. These coatings, while wonderfully colorful in the short term,
are vulnerable to both chemical and physical attack in ways that real glazes
are not. Using any kind of abrasive on these surfaces will probably change
them in unacceptable ways. That is not such an indictment of the abrasive
since simple exposure to air is sufficient to change the colors to a uniform
greenish black.
A review of the Moh=92s scratch hardness mineral scale is as follows: bigger
numbers scratch all smaller numbers. Diamonds scratch everything. Talc - =
1,
Gypsum - 2, Calcite - 3, Fluorite - 4, Apatite - 5, Feldspar - 6, =
Quartz
- 7, Topaz - 8, Corundum - 9, Diamond - 10. Other materials are:
fingernail - 2, copper - 3, knife blade (regular steel) - 5.5, file =
(hardened
steel) 6.5, glass - 6.5. There are some man-made materials that fall =
between
9 and 10 on the scale. Silicon carbide and boron nitride are two notables.
There is room for these materials because diamonds are so much harder than =
any
other natural material. If the units of the scratch hardness scale are =
linear
from 1 through 9, the scale from 9 to 10 is exponential so diamond is 10 =
times
harder than corundum. Ain=92t nature great.
Joseph Herbert
JJHerb=40aol.com
David Clark on thu 14 jun 01
Bon Ami and Vinegar.
Dave Clark in Sunny Cal.
>From: Ryan Clyde-Rich
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Cleaning Raku
>Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 19:11:21 -0400
>
>When I raku pots that have a clear crackle glaze on them I get a brown film
>that is hard to remove. If I scrub with steel wool it will come off
>eventually, but there has to be an easier way. Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Ryan
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________
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Ryan Clyde-Rich on thu 14 jun 01
When I raku pots that have a clear crackle glaze on them I get a brown film
that is hard to remove. If I scrub with steel wool it will come off
eventually, but there has to be an easier way. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Ryan
Iveragh Ceramics on fri 15 jun 01
Ryan,
Wet silica sand, a piece of rag and plenty of elbow grease! Clean
in seconds.
Regards,
Bob Hollis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Clyde-Rich"
To:
Sent: 14 June 2001 23:11
Subject: Cleaning Raku
> When I raku pots that have a clear crackle glaze on them I get a brown
film
> that is hard to remove. If I scrub with steel wool it will come off
> eventually, but there has to be an easier way. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Ryan
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
CINDI ANDERSON on fri 15 jun 01
Windex.
Cindi
Ryan Clyde-Rich wrote:
> When I raku pots that have a clear crackle glaze on them I get a brown film
> that is hard to remove. If I scrub with steel wool it will come off
> eventually, but there has to be an easier way. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Ryan
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Cantello Studios on sat 16 jun 01
To clean raku, the best scrubby I found was free if you don't mind "dumpster
diving" a bit. I get the old round floor cleaning scrubby disk that they
use at the grocery store. It is used on the bottom of the big floor
cleaning machine. Go in early to a grocery store about 6:00 am and talk to
the guy cleaning the floor and ask if you can have the disk when he is
through. They are industrial strength. I swear it is like using at least 4
of the store bought ones to one floor scrubby. They are about 14 inches in
diameter, so you get quite a few scrubbies. I haven't checked, but you may
just be able to buy then at a janitorial supply store also. But the
recycler in me loves a bargain.
Tracy in CA, where tomorrow is Raku day and I will be scrubbing away...
Anita M. Swan on sat 16 jun 01
I use fine sand and a green scrubbie - the sand really cleans things up fast. '
Nita
Craig Dunn Clark on sat 16 jun 01
Use Never Dull. Works incredibly well. Comes in a small blue can.May be
found in most hardware/grocery/building supply type stores. It's been around
for many years. Intended to be used as a metal polisher. I used it more than
twenty years ago to polish brass turnbuckles and my belt buckles when I was
floating around in Uncle Sams Canoe Club (USN.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Clyde-Rich"
To:
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 6:11 PM
Subject: Cleaning Raku
> When I raku pots that have a clear crackle glaze on them I get a brown
film
> that is hard to remove. If I scrub with steel wool it will come off
> eventually, but there has to be an easier way. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Ryan
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
b arwood on sat 16 jun 01
I use slip to clean Raku.
Brenda Arwood in Southern California
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 20:01:59 -0700
From: David Clark
Subject: Re: Cleaning Raku
Bon Ami and Vinegar.
Dave Clark in Sunny Cal.
>From: Ryan Clyde-Rich
>Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Cleaning Raku
>Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 19:11:21 -0400
>
>When I raku pots that have a clear crackle glaze on them I get a brown film
>that is hard to remove. If I scrub with steel wool it will come off
>eventually, but there has to be an easier way. Any ideas?
>
>Thanks,
>Ryan
>
_________________________________________________________________
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Jim and Marge Wade on sat 16 jun 01
I've always used Soft Scrun or similar product and the film comes off
nicely. Ajax cleanser works, too, I just don't scrub as hard.
Marge
> From: Ryan Clyde-Rich
> Reply-To: Ceramic Arts Discussion List
> Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 19:11:21 -0400
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Cleaning Raku
>
> When I raku pots that have a clear crackle glaze on them I get a brown film
> that is hard to remove. If I scrub with steel wool it will come off
> eventually, but there has to be an easier way. Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Ryan
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
Steve Mills on tue 19 jun 01
I haven't found anything to beat good old Ajax powder yet.
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Steven Branfman on fri 22 jun 01
Folks,
The suggestions given for cleaning raku have been interesting! I've never
though to use Windex so I'll have to give that a try! The post firing phase
of the raku technique leaves a layer of soot and ash on the ware that must be
cleaned off to reveal the true surface. It is usually not enough to simply
rinse the piece off in water. The use of an abrasive cleaner of some sort is
the the most common method of cleaning your ware. While raku glazes are
somewhat soft and can be fragile, using Ajax or a similar cleaner will not
harm the surface. Infact, using steel wool or a steel abrasive pad will not
harm the surface either. My favorite cleaner is a 50/50 combination of Ajax
and Bar Keepers Friend. Try to find the "original" Ajax and not the new
version as it either doesn't contain bleach or is not as abrasive, I don't
remember which. (I don't have a can here handy to look at) and thus not as
effective. Wet the surface of the piece, sprinkle on some cleaner and make a
paste using a stiff bristled nail brush as your scrubbing tool. Scrub away
and rinse well.
Steven Branfman
The Potters Shop
31 Thorpe Rd.
Needham MA 02494, USA
781 449 7687
fax: 781 449 9098
Ababi on sat 23 jun 01
This idea I got from one of the small books of C.M.
and I do it this way: I take some: Whiting or feldspar, add it to liquid
soap, or cream soap and use( lately) steel wool
Ababi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Branfman"
To:
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2001 7:40 PM
Subject: cleaning raku
> Folks,
>
> The suggestions given for cleaning raku have been interesting! I've never
> though to use Windex so I'll have to give that a try! The post firing
phase
> of the raku technique leaves a layer of soot and ash on the ware that must
be
> cleaned off to reveal the true surface. It is usually not enough to simply
> rinse the piece off in water. The use of an abrasive cleaner of some sort
is
> the the most common method of cleaning your ware. While raku glazes are
> somewhat soft and can be fragile, using Ajax or a similar cleaner will not
> harm the surface. Infact, using steel wool or a steel abrasive pad will
not
> harm the surface either. My favorite cleaner is a 50/50 combination of
Ajax
> and Bar Keepers Friend. Try to find the "original" Ajax and not the new
> version as it either doesn't contain bleach or is not as abrasive, I don't
> remember which. (I don't have a can here handy to look at) and thus not
as
> effective. Wet the surface of the piece, sprinkle on some cleaner and make
a
> paste using a stiff bristled nail brush as your scrubbing tool. Scrub away
> and rinse well.
>
> Steven Branfman
> The Potters Shop
> 31 Thorpe Rd.
> Needham MA 02494, USA
> 781 449 7687
> fax: 781 449 9098
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Craig Dunn Clark on mon 22 dec 03
Shawn, if you are trying to clean a white crackle NeverDull works great
with a light prior cleaning with comet or ajax. I first clean the piece by
rubbing comet into it with a little water and an SOS pad. Let it sit for a
few minutes to let the soap do it's thing and then wash it all off under
running water. After that use the NeverDull on the stubborn areas that you
want to get clean, though as has been mentioned, you may not want to clean
off all evidence of the process. Wash off the the NeverDull with warm soapy
water and rinse clean. Be careful to minimize the contact that any of the
cleaning agents have with the areas of the piece that are not glazed, this
may lead to a scumming type of discoloration which is troublesome to
correct.
If you are cleaning either glossy colored glazes or something along the
lines of Pipenburgs Alligator you needn'nt use any of the industrial
strength abrasives or cleaners. Just use warm soapy water, a stout sponge or
one of those green scrubby pads and rinse clean (dishwashing liquid works
well for me.)
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pamela Watkins"
To:
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2003 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: Cleaning Raku
> Hi Shawn~
>
> Raku firing requires the extra horse power and effort- cleaning a piece is
a reflective of that energy, to me. I also don't completely remove all the
smoke marks and ashen effects. I feel they lend an intrigue to the process.
>
> Damp sand that is in the cooling pit or secondary combustion pit for ultra
fragile or easily lost pieces serves as a great grit for cleaning pieces.
Also good old "brillo" pads, but I would refrain from that "scour" if you
have the naked clay- black in your piece(s) It tends to pull the carbon
away.
>
> If the hand is suffering, put on some kitchen gloves or whatever.......
>
> Peace,
> Pamela
> ~Jaq
>
>
> Shawn McGuire wrote:
> Hello Folks,
> Just kinda wondering if anyone has a REAL easy way of cleaning off raku
> peices with a crackle glaze applyed?? I have been cleaning with those
green
> scrubby things and a lot of elbow grease and my hands are getting sore. I
am trying
> to get about twenty peices cleaned and shiney for x-mas day,,help!!!
> over-and-out,
> ~S~
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ---------------------------------
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____________________________________________________________________________
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> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
logan johnson on mon 22 dec 03
Hi Shawn,
I just use "Comet & a very coarse plastic "scrubby". It's the industrial grade type you get at paint stores or the hardware stores. It's MUCH more coarse than the green "Scotch-Bright" type that can be found in the grocery store . I just finished (appx. 3-5 min. ago) cleaning a white crackle piece using this method. Heck,my hands are barely dry! :o} Even if it is a TAD under fired & the rim of the piece might need a lid to balance it. I was pleasently suprised when I finished cleaning it. Anyway, back to the subject. Make sure to use ALOT of water when you rinse. or else you get a nasty - icky residue. If you happen to hear of a better way let us /me know. I'm all for saving hand/wrist/arm strength! (Especially at the end of the raku day)
L.O.L! HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!!
Shawn McGuire wrote:
Hello Folks,
Just kinda wondering if anyone has a REAL easy way of cleaning off raku
peices with a crackle glaze applyed?? I have been cleaning with those green
scrubby things and a lot of elbow grease and my hands are getting sore. I am trying
to get about twenty peices cleaned and shiney for x-mas day,,help!!!
over-and-out,
~S~
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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Logan Johnson
Audeo Studios
"Carpe Argillam!!"
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claire toutant /patricia dailey on mon 22 dec 03
Hi Shawn,
Sometimes I have used silica (the powered type you use to make glazes.) I've also used
Cascade or other dishwasher soap. But you have to rinse that a lot, and you can loose some
of the smoking from the glaze crackles. Occasionally if I have a very stubborn spot, I use my
dremel tool with either silver or brass polish with a felt tip. Sometimes the carbon has been
stuck in the actual glaze before it hardens, and then its really a part of the piece.
Hopes this helps you get the look you're wanting.
Patricia Dailey
Gary Ferguson on mon 22 dec 03
Hi Shawn:
I use Fine Steelwool and Clorox Softscrub. The steelwool seems to be about
the right amount of grit, and the softscrub (also has grit), but also seems
to take some of the Raku smell out of the piece.
I also have started using Rubber gloves when washing my pieces. A day of
having my hands in and out of water with a combination of abrasive materials
will definitely lead to raw hands.
Gary Ferguson
Raku Clay Artist
Nampa, ID 83687
Raku Gallery and Glaze Collection at: http://www.garyrferguson.com
Subscribe to Just Raku Newsletter at http://www.JustRaku.com
Just Raku Logowear at: http://www.cafepress.com/justraku
Got Raku? Wear it here: http://www.cafepress.com/gotraku
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shawn McGuire"
To:
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2003 11:34 AM
Subject: Cleaning Raku
> Hello Folks,
> Just kinda wondering if anyone has a REAL easy way of cleaning off raku
> peices with a crackle glaze applyed?? I have been cleaning with those
green
> scrubby things and a lot of elbow grease and my hands are getting sore. I
am trying
> to get about twenty peices cleaned and shiney for x-mas day,,help!!!
> over-and-out,
> ~S~
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Shawn McGuire on mon 22 dec 03
Hello Folks,
Just kinda wondering if anyone has a REAL easy way of cleaning off raku
peices with a crackle glaze applyed?? I have been cleaning with those green
scrubby things and a lot of elbow grease and my hands are getting sore. I am trying
to get about twenty peices cleaned and shiney for x-mas day,,help!!!
over-and-out,
~S~
Andrew_M_Casto@PROGRESSIVE.COM on mon 22 dec 03
Shawn
- I've had some luck in the past using a sand and water mixture - this way
you just dunk the piece in the mixture and scrub it by hand - you could
also add a scrub brush to the process to save your hands - I think the sand
particles would do a better job of "exfoliating" your wares in this case
than the brillo pads.
Cheers -
Andy Casto
Shawn McGuire
M> cc:
Sent by: Clayart Subject: Cleaning Raku
AMICS.ORG>
12/22/03 01:34
PM
Please respond
to Clayart
Hello Folks,
Just kinda wondering if anyone has a REAL easy way of cleaning off raku
peices with a crackle glaze applyed?? I have been cleaning with those green
scrubby things and a lot of elbow grease and my hands are getting sore. I
am trying
to get about twenty peices cleaned and shiney for x-mas day,,help!!!
over-and-out,
~S~
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Leland G. Hall on mon 22 dec 03
Hi Shawn, (did I get the name right? hope so---)
You asked about cleaning raku. We tried the green scrubby's too. Didn't
work for us either. For the way we fire, the way we reduce, the effects we
are after, the answer is S.O.S. pads. They wont work for every one, but
you might try them. Good luck
Leland Hall
Before The Wheel Enterprises
La PIne, OR
daniel on mon 22 dec 03
Hi Shawn,
I started by using Comet and then after reading Steve Branfman's book got
hold of Bar Keepers Friend (he's tried a bunch of stuff and reports on this
as the best I think) which does the job very well. I find either is fine.
Thanx
D
> Shawn
>
> - I've had some luck in the past using a sand and water mixture - this way
> you just dunk the piece in the mixture and scrub it by hand - you could
> also add a scrub brush to the process to save your hands - I think the sand
> particles would do a better job of "exfoliating" your wares in this case
> than the brillo pads.
>
> Cheers -
> Andy Casto
>
>
>
> Shawn McGuire
> > M> cc:
> Sent by: Clayart Subject: Cleaning Raku
> > AMICS.ORG>
>
>
> 12/22/03 01:34
> PM
> Please respond
> to Clayart
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hello Folks,
> Just kinda wondering if anyone has a REAL easy way of cleaning off raku
> peices with a crackle glaze applyed?? I have been cleaning with those green
> scrubby things and a lot of elbow grease and my hands are getting sore. I
> am trying
> to get about twenty peices cleaned and shiney for x-mas day,,help!!!
> over-and-out,
> ~S~
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Pamela Watkins on mon 22 dec 03
Hi Shawn~
Raku firing requires the extra horse power and effort- cleaning a piece is a reflective of that energy, to me. I also don't completely remove all the smoke marks and ashen effects. I feel they lend an intrigue to the process.
Damp sand that is in the cooling pit or secondary combustion pit for ultra fragile or easily lost pieces serves as a great grit for cleaning pieces. Also good old "brillo" pads, but I would refrain from that "scour" if you have the naked clay- black in your piece(s) It tends to pull the carbon away.
If the hand is suffering, put on some kitchen gloves or whatever.......
Peace,
Pamela
~Jaq
Shawn McGuire wrote:
Hello Folks,
Just kinda wondering if anyone has a REAL easy way of cleaning off raku
peices with a crackle glaze applyed?? I have been cleaning with those green
scrubby things and a lot of elbow grease and my hands are getting sore. I am trying
to get about twenty peices cleaned and shiney for x-mas day,,help!!!
over-and-out,
~S~
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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Reg Brown on tue 23 dec 03
Shawn, try using a propane torch. It works extremely well in burning off
carbon residue from crackle glazes. Do this while the piece is hot and keep the
torch moving as you see the crackle glaze brighten and the carbon removed.
Try to avoid using the torch on any unglazed portion as it can also burn the
carbon from this surface as well. You can get the torches from most hardware
stores, burnzomatic brand (my spelling is off). No luck needed, should work.
Regards, Reg
william schran on tue 23 dec 03
~S~ wrote:> Just kinda wondering if anyone has a REAL easy way of
cleaning off raku
peices with a crackle glaze applyed?<
We've had fairly good success with scouring powder and the scrubber
pads. I've been told, but have not tried, if one uses a small torch
on the areas of heavy carbon build up, they'll burn right out.
Bill
Marvpots@AOL.COM on tue 23 dec 03
Hi:
Steve Branfman recommends Ajax, and so do I.
Just a soft sponge with the Ajax should do a satisfactory job.
Good Luck!
Marvin Flowerman
marvpots@aol.com
Wally on tue 23 dec 03
Shawn,
Those green scrubby things work fine with just water, but it is
better to add some kind of abrasive to get real quick results.
Plain mud is cheap and readily available, and it adds an extra touch
of primitive flavour, if you like the Neanderthaler approach. I do.
Fine white sand can be used as well, but beware of real coarse sand,
which might create scratches.
Best abrasive however is the kind of white liquid used to clean
dirty pots and pans....They mostly contain ammonia which quickly
dissolves the tar residents of the smoking process.
But be sure to rinse with abundant amount of clean water afterwards.
Sometimes an overdose of this white liquid gets soaked up by the
clay, and comes back in "white clouds" after drying, especially on
black reduced areas.
Same kind of thing you sometimes see on brickwork on new houses,
after a couple of months...
Doesn't really look nice on a raku object.
Good luck,
Wally, Flanders.
In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Shawn McGuire wrote:
> Hello Folks,
> Just kinda wondering if anyone has a REAL easy way of cleaning
off raku
> peices with a crackle glaze applyed?? I have been cleaning with
those green
> scrubby things and a lot of elbow grease and my hands are getting
sore. I am trying
> to get about twenty peices cleaned and shiney for x-mas
day,,help!!!
> over-and-out,
> ~S~
>
>
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Joe Coniglio on wed 24 dec 03
We use a soft cloth with soft scrub, ajax or comet.
Cleans up fast with no residual damage. So much tar.
Shawn McGuire on tue 30 dec 03
Hi Everyone-
Finally got a chance to sit down at the computer after the holidays, and I
wanted to thank everyone for their great suggestions. It really helped and I
ended up cleaning my pieces with steel wool and Ajax, worked the best for me.
After consulting a book on helpful household tips, I tried white vinegar on a
few pieces with some success, just not enough abrasion though, plus it really
made the steel wool oxidize quickly.
Over this past weekend I experimented a little with a raku glaze made with
some found materials. Has anyone ever used a mineral called Catlinite in their
glaze. It's also known as Pipestone and is used by the Lakota Indians to make
the bowl of their prayer pipes. A few years ago after carving a pipe myself I
had a lot of dust left over that I saved for future use. I couldn't throw it
away being a material of such a sacred nature. It's really a beautiful red
colored stone made of mica and pyrophyllite (I think). I had pretty limited
success with the glaze, came out a rather bland yellow, but I'm going to keep
playing with it, and I'll let you know how it goes.
over-and-out,
~S~
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