Robert C. Rank on tue 20 oct 98
I am looking for a clear cone 10 glaze to put on Laguna's 1/2 and 1/2 white
clay that won't craze. Any ideas?? What to use?
Lynn in CA
roblynn@psnw.com
William & Carol Wilson on tue 10 nov 98
I would like a clear Glaze recipe. I find it difficult to believe that I =
must
continue to purchase pints =40 =2410.00 apiece for my students. Most of the=
kids
pottery is firing at 05 cone. please send to bill=40friontiernet.net .
bill
bill=40frontiernet.net
Warren Smith on wed 3 feb 99
We are looking for a Cone 05-03 clear gloss glaze to use in a high
school setting.Our present formula is as follows.(Revised Watershed
Clear)
3195 67.69
Lit. Carb. 6.15
Stron.Carb. 7.69
EPK 8.21
Flint 10.26
Add Bent. 2.00
Presently- Bisque 04 the glaze 04.Tends to craze.
Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks,
Warren Smith
Fabienne Cassman on thu 11 feb 99
------------------
Hello clayarters,
I have concocted yet another glaze which is intended to be a cone 9R glossy
clear for a white stoneware body. It will also be used a lot with slips.
I do not know the COE of the body, but after looking at other stoneware
glazes, I worked on keeping it between 7.1 and 7.2 which seemed a good
starting point. I used Orton 8-10 leadless limits supplied by Insight to
keep the oxides balanced. I would appreciate your comments on it so I can
improve its durability and remove any possible flaws.
Thank you for time :)
FM021199A Cone 9 Glossy Clear - White Stoneware
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D==
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
DOLOMITE............ 2.70 2.70=25
ZINC OXIDE.......... 1.20 1.20=25
WOLLASTONITE........ 20.00 20.00=25
CUSTER FELDSPAR..... 46.50 46.50=25
EPK KAOLIN.......... 10.20 10.20=25
SILICA.............. 19.40 19.40=25
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
100.00
CaO 0.65=2A 10.94=25
MgO 0.05=2A 0.62=25
K2O 0.17=2A 4.95=25
Na2O 0.07=2A 1.40=25
ZnO 0.05=2A 1.23=25
TiO2 0.00 0.04=25
Al2O3 0.40 12.25=25
P2O5 0.00 0.03=25
SiO2 3.79 68.41=25
Fe2O3 0.00 0.14=25
Cost/kg 0.74
Si:Al 9.47
SiB:Al 9.48
Expan 7.14
=A4=BA=B0=60=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0=60=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=
=B0=60=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0=60=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0=60
Fabienne
Yes, I have learned from my mistakes...
I can reproduce them exactly.
Barney Adams on tue 16 feb 99
Hi,
I'd follow Ron's or other advise over mine, but if I may have a
go at this. At cone 9 the zinc is pretty useless. I have replaced it
with strontium carb to get another secondary melter.
DOLOMITE............ 3.00 3.00%
WOLLASTONITE........ 20.00 20.00%
CUSTER FELDSPAR..... 46.00 46.00%
EPK KAOLIN.......... 5.00 5.00%
SILICA.............. 24.00 24.00%
STRONTIUM CARBONATE. 2.00 2.00%
========
100.00
CaO 0.65* 11.02%
MgO 0.06* 0.68%
K2O 0.17* 4.88%
Na2O 0.07* 1.38%
SrO 0.05* 1.44%
TiO2 0.00 0.02%
Al2O3 0.33 10.15%
P2O5 0.00 0.01%
SiO2 3.88 70.32%
Fe2O3 0.00 0.10%
I adjusted for your 7.1 expansion and increased the Al:Si to try for
more gloss. I'm not sure why you are using the Dolomite if it's for
the MgO then Talc might be better because the Dolomite tends to be
one of those substances that varies a great deal from the distributor.
(I think that's how Ron told me).
How'd I do Ron? Am I applying your workshop stuff correctly.
The Clay Extravaganza was great. Finally met some faces to go with the names.
The pieces I saw had my head swimming. A huge concentration of great potters
and nice people are there in MN.
Barney
Fabienne Cassman wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> ------------------
> Hello clayarters,
>
> I have concocted yet another glaze which is intended to be a cone 9R glossy
> clear for a white stoneware body. It will also be used a lot with slips.
>
> I do not know the COE of the body, but after looking at other stoneware
> glazes, I worked on keeping it between 7.1 and 7.2 which seemed a good
> starting point. I used Orton 8-10 leadless limits supplied by Insight to
> keep the oxides balanced. I would appreciate your comments on it so I can
> improve its durability and remove any possible flaws.
>
> Thank you for time :)
>
> FM021199A Cone 9 Glossy Clear - White Stoneware
> ===========================
> 3D========================
> DOLOMITE............ 2.70 2.70%
> ZINC OXIDE.......... 1.20 1.20%
> WOLLASTONITE........ 20.00 20.00%
> CUSTER FELDSPAR..... 46.50 46.50%
> EPK KAOLIN.......... 10.20 10.20%
> SILICA.............. 19.40 19.40%
> ========
> 100.00
>
> CaO 0.65* 10.94%
> MgO 0.05* 0.62%
> K2O 0.17* 4.95%
> Na2O 0.07* 1.40%
> ZnO 0.05* 1.23%
> TiO2 0.00 0.04%
> Al2O3 0.40 12.25%
> P2O5 0.00 0.03%
> SiO2 3.79 68.41%
> Fe2O3 0.00 0.14%
>
> Cost/kg 0.74
> Si:Al 9.47
> SiB:Al 9.48
> Expan 7.14
>
> $:0`0:$x,88,x$:0`0:$x,88,x$:0`0:$x,88,x$:0`0:$x,88,x$:0`
> Fabienne
> Yes, I have learned from my mistakes...
> I can reproduce them exactly.
Fabienne Cassman on wed 17 feb 99
------------------
Thank you for the comments. All that replied agree that the zinc will burn
out at that temperature and because of the reduction. Off I am to rework
the glaze. :)
Thank you again,
=A4=BA=B0=60=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0=60=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=
=B0=60=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0=60=B0=BA=A4=F8,=B8=B8,=F8=A4=BA=B0=60
Fabienne
Yes, I have learned from my mistakes...
I can reproduce them exactly.
Denise Bohart on thu 9 nov 00
I'm in need of a recipe for a basic clear glaze for ^10 reduction--one
that is hopefully simple (not too many ingredients) and truly CLEAR.
The one we are currently using "grays" the clay (but it's an improvement
on the LAST formula which was cloudy and tended to craze). Thanks!!
Denise Bohart
Northern California, starting to rain tonight... I have one very soggy
puppy laying by my feet...
Liz Willoughby on fri 10 nov 00
Denise,
I've had good luck with "V & O" (Vivika & Otto Heino) Clear, cone 10 R.
Potash Spar (I use G-200) 27.5
Whiting 19.6
EPK 20.0
Silica 32.9
Bent. 1.0
Used on H.H.P. from Tuckers. I imagine that it would go grayer on a
stoneware body. Haven't noticed crazing on this clay body. Melts
well, doesn't show drips.
Makes a nice celadon with the addition of 2% red iron oxide.
Meticulously loose Liz
>I'm in need of a recipe for a basic clear glaze for ^10 reduction--one
>that is hopefully simple (not too many ingredients) and truly CLEAR.
>The one we are currently using "grays" the clay (but it's an improvement
>on the LAST formula which was cloudy and tended to craze). Thanks!!
>
>Denise Bohart
Liz Willoughby
RR 1
2903 Shelter Valley Rd.
Grafton, On.
Canada
e-mail lizwill@phc.igs.net
Alice K. on wed 20 nov 02
Hi, I need a clear glaze to use with HIgh School students. I would like to
have something that could be used cones 06-6 if possible. I would like to
also use this glaze with mason stains. I've noted the 5 x 20 glaze I've
seen mentioned, however I am unfamiliar with this formula and I am totally
lost as to what wolastonite is. Any help would be appreciated. We are just
hanging in there with our budget and continued cost cutting measures are
needed to keep our ceramic program alive.
Many thanks,
Alice K.
Marianne Lombardo on wed 20 nov 02
The 5 x 20 glaze is a good, easy, shiny gloss that from my experience works
well with stains. It was the first glaze recipe I tried, and I still use it
for many things, and it seems to be foolproof, which is what I needed when I
began mixing glazes.
Staying very non-technical in my explanation, Wollastonite is a reliable,
consistant source of calcium and helps provide hardness and durability in a
glaze. It is one of the materials that get used a lot so it's most
economical to purchase 50 lb bags, rather than smaller amounts.
I don't think it is possible to get one glaze that will work at cones 06 -
6. That's too wide a firing temperature range. If your clay matures at
cone 6 then you are better off bisque firing at cone 06 - 04 and glaze
firing at cone 6. Then all you need is the one glaze formula.
The digitalfire website has some valuable information, and basic glaze
formulas. The website is: http://digitalfire.com
They also have a material database at :
http://digitalfire.com/material/index.htm
Hope this helps a bit.
Marianne Lombardo
Omemee, Ontario, Canada
email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
Christylyn on fri 25 mar 05
Does anyone have a recipie for clear glaze that won't turn brown clay gray?
I have tried several, but have not found one that works well.
Thanks,
Christylyn
Earl Brunner on fri 25 mar 05
Well, lets see, what temperature (cone) are you firing to? Are you firing
oxidation or reduction? If the clay turns gray under a clear glaze, that
sounds like reduction. That is the frequently the nature of reduction and
iron under a clear glaze.
Earl Brunner
Las Vegas, NV
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Christylyn
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 11:55 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Clear Glaze
Does anyone have a recipie for clear glaze that won't turn brown clay gray?
I have tried several, but have not found one that works well.
Thanks,
Christylyn
____________________________________________________________________________
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Craig Martell on sun 27 mar 05
Snail was saying:
>Brown clay is brown from reduction, if you
>are firing in reduction. If you put a clear
>glaze over it, the clay doesn't get that
>surface effect of reduction,
Hi:
Well, the above may not be true in all cases.
If reduction is started at a low enough temperature, and most of the time
this is the case, the clay is reduced and the color of the clay is changed
by the reduction atmosphere. When the ware is fired to maturity and the
glaze has fully sealed the clay, reoxidation of glazed surfaces is not
possible. If there's a clear glaze over the pot, we can see thru the glaze
to the grey, reduced clay under the glaze. What makes the clay brown,
orange, buff, or whatever toasty effect is seen is the reoxidation of the
reduced, iron bearing body that isn't covered by a glaze. Usually the
feet, lid galleries etc. Once the kiln is shut down and reduction has
totally stopped, there will be some reoxidation of the clays and the
surface of the glazes.
regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
joethepotter1948 on sun 27 mar 05
I find the Bone glaze from Ron & John's Mastering Cone 6 Glazes works,
if applied thinly on brown clay, comes out pretty clear and non-
graying. Probably the base glaze that Bone is made from, without any
colorants added, would make an even better clear glaze.
Joe
a former lurker, now out of the glaze closet.
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Christylyn wrote:
> Does anyone have a recipie for clear glaze that won't turn brown
clay gray?
> I have tried several, but have not found one that works well.
> Thanks,
> Christylyn
>
>
_______________________________________________________________________
_______
> Send postings to clayart@l...
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@p...
Snail Scott on sun 27 mar 05
At 02:55 PM 3/25/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>Does anyone have a recipie for clear glaze that won't turn brown clay gray?
>I have tried several, but have not found one that works well.
Brown clay is brown from reduction, if you
are firing in reduction. If you put a clear
glaze over it, the clay doesn't get that
surface effect of reduction, but the clear
glaze does take up a bit of the iron and turn
'celadon' (pale green) which will look grey
over the not-as-brown clay body. It's not
the particular glaze that's at fault, except
for being a glaze. If there is any glaze that
doesn't do this, I've never heard of it.
-Snail
Heloisa Nunes on tue 30 may 06
Hello, Clayarters.
I have been out for a couple of weeks since my studio was under remodeling.
Finally over.
Finally I am back to my wheel, in a much more organized, practical and
lighted space.
Thank you again for all of you who helped me with my set up, and some
glazes. I am now trying out some new ones.
I am just "trowing to the lions' (wise lions) one clear glaze that I got in
my search for a non crackling glaze in Brazil.
Transparent cone 6-7 Oxidation
Potash Feldspar 41
Dolomite 13
Caulim 7
Quartz 25
Zinc 6
Barium 5 (sub strontium 75%)
Bentonite 2
Results: clear glossy, non crackle.
I am still to test response to color oxides.
Those materials are inexpensive here in Brazil, and I would try and
substitute somewhere my frit 096 or 093
Brasilian Frit 096
Na2O 9,5
K2O 0,1
CaO 9,0
MgO 0,1
B2O3 18,5
Al2O3 5,5
SiO2 57,3
Brasilian frit 093
Na2O 6,1
K2O -
CaO 5,6
MgO -
B2O3 12,2
Al2O3 10,0
SiO2 66,1
Well, thank you again, and I am continuing my glaze learning.
Cheers from today a sunny São Paulo.
Tchau (goodbye) e tudo de bom (all the best)
Heloisa Nunes,
Brazil
Fredrick Paget on tue 30 may 06
>Hello, Clayarters.
>I have been out for a couple of weeks since my studio was under remodeling.
>Finally over.
>Finally I am back to my wheel, in a much more organized, practical and
>lighted space.
>Thank you again for all of you who helped me with my set up, and some
>glazes. I am now trying out some new ones.
>I am just "trowing to the lions' (wise lions) one clear glaze that I got in
>my search for a non crackling glaze in Brazil.
>
>Transparent cone 6-7 Oxidation
>
>Potash Feldspar 41
>Dolomite 13
>Caulim 7 (Kaolin)
>Quartz 25
>Zinc 6
>Barium 5 (sub strontium 75%)
>Bentonite 2
>
>Results: clear glossy, non crackle.
>I am still to test response to color oxides.
>
>Those materials are inexpensive here in Brazil, and I would try and
>substitute somewhere my frit 096 or 093
>
>Brasilian Frit 096
>Na2O 9,5
>K2O 0,1
>CaO 9,0
>MgO 0,1
>B2O3 18,5
>Al2O3 5,5
>SiO2 57,3
>
>Brasilian frit 093
>Na2O 6,1
>K2O -
>CaO 5,6
>MgO -
>B2O3 12,2
>Al2O3 10,0
>SiO2 66,1
>
>Well, thank you again, and I am continuing my glaze learning.
>Cheers from today a sunny S=93o Paulo.
>Tchau (goodbye) e tudo de bom (all the best)
>Heloisa Nunes,
>Brazil
>
>___________________________________________________________________________=
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be=20
>reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
From Fred &Nan Paget,
No Tengo Rancho,
Marin County,
California, USA
fredrick@well.com
Fredrick Paget on tue 30 may 06
>Hello, Clayarters.
>.....
>I am just "trowing to the lions' (wise lions) one clear glaze that I got in
>my search for a non crackling glaze in Brazil.
>
>Transparent cone 6-7 Oxidation
>
>Potash Feldspar 41
>Dolomite 13
>Caulim 7
>Quartz 25
>Zinc 6
>Barium 5 (sub strontium 75%)
>Bentonite 2
>
>Results: clear glossy, non crackle.
>I am still to test response to color oxides.
>
>Those materials are inexpensive here in Brazil,
Heloisa Nunes
Caulim is Kaolin in Portuguese.
--
From Fred &Nan Paget,
No Tengo Rancho,
Marin County,
California, USA
fredrick@well.com
Helen Bates on tue 30 may 06
Greetings Heloisa,
I was guessing that "caulim" was Portuguese for kaolin in English and looked
for the "answer": http://www.answers.com/topic/kaolin ;)
PS: Replies are more likely to get to me if you take the time to change the
initial "n" in my "To:" address to a "y."
Helen
(in sunny but smoggy Belleville, Ontario, Canada, where the temperature will
climb into the low 30's by mid-afternoon, but already at 27 degrees (that's
Celcius, folks), it feels like 38!)
Sam Kelly on tue 30 may 06
the zinc might do something to the colours.
Sam Kelly
Digital Studio on mon 4 feb 08
I'm looking for a clear cone 6 glaze. This seems simple enough but I
want one that keeps the original color of our bisque (nice toasty manila
color). I have mixed this variation of Waterfall Brown and it looks
amazing:
Base Glaze of Waterfall Brown, plus
Rutile 1
3195 Frit +3% (29% total)
You can see this one on my Flickr:
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/digitalstudio) It's the one called
Waterfall White. I'm wondering how I can get that clear color that keeps
the color of the bisque in this glaze /without/ the white waterfall
part. Would the base of Waterfall work for this?
--
Kendra Bogert
www.digital-studio.biz
641-208-6253
John Sankey on tue 5 feb 08
This is the best clear glaze I've found for over underglazes.
It's in the glaze database http://sankey.ws/glazedata.html
You'll have to try it with your bisque to see if it keeps it's
colour.
nepheline syenite 51g
Gerstley borate 22g
Wollastonite 14g
EPK 8g
zinc oxide 3g
titanium dioxide 2g
This is a fluid glaze that can be applied very thin and still
seal evenly. Excellent for applying over non-toxic underglaze,
but has too little silica to be functional with any colorant that
could cause problems if it leached. It withstands the usual
freezer to boiling water test when dipped thinly on my stoneware.
--
Include 'Byrd' in the subject line of your reply
to get through my spam filter.
Alisa Clausen on tue 5 feb 08
On Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:47:25 -0600, Digital Studio STUDIO.BIZ> wrote:
> Would the base of Waterfall work for this?
>
>
>--
Hi Kendra
It is not possible to know what is possible without a formula.
However, those who have MC6G have the Waterfall recipe.
Why don't you test the Waterfall base without the coloring oxides?
You could also run it through a glaze calc. program to be sure that your
COE is still all right. Sometimes iron, and there is a lot in this
glaze, can substantiall influence COE and without it, your glaze may not
be stable.
As far as bases that will not conceal your clay color, which in the glaze
firing is not the bisque color anymore, there are many, many. If you
specifically want a toasty looking clear, you can see the E.C. Specled
transparetn, I have on my website and Yahoo, which gave that
effect,especially around edges.
Best regards from Alisa in Denmark
Lee on tue 5 feb 08
On Feb 5, 2008 2:47 AM, Digital Studio wrote:
> I'm looking for a clear cone 6 glaze. This seems simple enough but I
> want one that keeps the original color of our bisque (nice toasty manila
> color). I have mixed this variation of Waterfall Brown and it looks
A clear gloss glaze changes the nature of the matt surface. Ever
look at the back of a mirror where there is not a shiny surface on the
base? It is gray.
How porous is your clay? Is it tight enough to only glaze
the inside? You might have better luck with a mat glaze in
getting a color match.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Tochigi Japan
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Tea is nought but this: first you heat the water, then you make the
tea. Then you drink it properly. That is all you need to know."
--Sen No Rikyu
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
Lili Krakowski on tue 5 feb 08
Clear glazes abound.
I have used my BB CLEAR just this side of forever, and never had trouble
with it.
Frit 3124 66.7
Ball Clay (I use OM #4) 6.9
Flint 24.3
Betonies 2.1
chafee woo adapt trans
Nepheline Syenite 33.3
Kaolin--EPK 8.8
Flint 38.2
This glaze is high in both silica and alumina.
In his book Michael Bailey gives this glaze.
BG1
Soda spar 45
China Clay [kaolin] 6
Bentonite 2
Whiting 17
Zinc 5
flint 25
I have tested the chafee woo but not the Bailey.
If I were concerned about how the glaze looks over the body I would
certainly test these. The first contains boron, the second does not, and
the fourth has some zinc in it. The zinc might be enough to turn any chrome
containing slips or underglazes nasty brown, but I don't know as I have not
tested it.
For the sake of economy. IF you have a good glaze that calls for
opacifier you might want to try it without the opacifier. You often get a
nice clear glaze that way.
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
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