gracie on mon 7 dec 98
Good morning all.... I'm searching for a glaze that I've seen
called Emerald Green. ^6 and is a high gloss at ^6 and a matte at ^4 or ^5
... I have seen the glaze Mexico green and Sana Green posted.. I've been
testing,,, but nothing comes close .. Surprisingly, Floating blue is
compatible with this glaze and doesn't go green.. just does it's beautiful
blue where thick.. I've only been with CLAYART 1 week.. so I apologize in
advance if this is a common glaze.. Thanks so much, gracie
Michelle Lowe on mon 7 dec 98
At 09:14 AM 12/7/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Good morning all.... I'm searching for a glaze that I've seen
>called Emerald Green. ^6 and is a high gloss at ^6 and a matte at ^4 or ^5
>.. I have seen the glaze Mexico green and Sana Green posted.. I've been
>testing,,, but nothing comes close .. Surprisingly, Floating blue is
>compatible with this glaze and doesn't go green.. just does it's beautiful
>blue where thick.. I've only been with CLAYART 1 week.. so I apologize in
>advance if this is a common glaze.. Thanks so much, gracie
>
>
>glaze name: Emerald Green
>cone: 5-9
>firing type: oxidation or reduction
>color: dark green
>surface: frosty
>recipe:
>Gerstley Borate 49
>EPK 19
>Silica 32
>Soda Ash 2
>Chrome Oxide 2
>Cobalt 1
>comments: Emerald Green ^5-9 oxidation or reduction- a darker green
>sometimes with a slight dark blue frost.
Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
mishlowe@indirect.com -O- | |
mishlowe@aztec.asu.edu /|\ | | |
|_|_|
____ |
http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe -\ /-----|-----
( )
<__>
Barb Lund on tue 8 dec 98
Hi Gracie and everybody else. Here is a glaze that came out Of CM in 6/87
if my notes are correct. I hope it is a good solid glaze because I have
been using it since then.
Emerald Gloss Green ^6 ox., but is shiny even at ^4
Gerstley 49
EPK 19
Silica 32
________________
chrome oxide 2
Cobalt Carb 1
other Barb in Bloomington
At 09:14 AM 12/7/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Good morning all.... I'm searching for a glaze that I've seen
>called Emerald Green. ^6 and is a high gloss at ^6 and a matte at ^4 or ^5
>.. I have seen the glaze Mexico green and Sana Green posted.. I've been
>testing,,, but nothing comes close .. Surprisingly, Floating blue is
>compatible with this glaze and doesn't go green.. just does it's beautiful
>blue where thick.. I've only been with CLAYART 1 week.. so I apologize in
>advance if this is a common glaze.. Thanks so much, gracie
>
Larry Phillips on tue 8 dec 98
gracie wrote:
> I'm searching for a glaze that I've seen called Emerald Green.
> ^6 and is a high gloss at ^6 and a matte at ^4 or ^5
We use a glaze called Emerald Green at the art school where I take
throwing lessons. I don't know how it does at ^4 or 5, but at ^6, it
is a beautiful, glossy, transparent green that pools in ridges or
incising, and has a 'near blue dark green' where it is very thick.
It is a bit finicky, settling quickly, so we stir it when ready to dip.
This is the recipe I was given, and it makes enough to do about 5
gallons at dipping viscosity (amounts in grams):
Emerald Green
Cone 6 - Oxidation
Nepheline Syenite 3750
Talc 2700
Whiting 1600
Colemanite 1050
Kaolin 800
Zinc Oxide 100
Copper Carbonate 500
I would welcome any comments on ths glaze. It is one of my favourites,
and I'd really like to do a blue version, but have no idea if it's even
possible.
--
---------------------------------------------------------------
I like deadlines. I especially like the whooshing sound of them
as they go flying by.
http://cr347197-a.surrey1.bc.wave.home.com/larry/
Chris Schafale on wed 9 dec 98
Hi Larry,
I'm not Ron Roy, in fact I'm just starting to understand glaze
chemistry, but when I put your recipe into Insight, results suggested
that alumina and silica are both low in this glaze, and with the
amount of copper, there's a good chance that copper would leach if
the glaze is in contact with acidic foods. Magnesium is somewhat
high, but I don't really know what the consequences of this would be.
I tried a revision just for fun, adding some kaolin and silica to
bring the amounts up within the limit formulas, but I don't know how
it will look. By the way, the extra kaolin should also help the
settling problem (caused by all that neph sy) as well as making the
glaze harder and more durable. I also subbed Gerstley Borate for
colemanite, since that's what I have. As for a blue version, with
this much magnesium, you might get purple -- I just tested a
high-magnesium glaze like this and got real, honest to goodness
purple with additions of 2-3% cobalt carb.
Anyway, here's the revision, if you want to try it -- I will too,
just for fun and because I'm looking for a good dark green.
Emerald Green revised
Nepheline syenite 25
Talc 18
Whiting 11
Gerstley Borate 12
EPK 13
Silica 20
Zinc Oxide 1
Copper Carbonate 5
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> gracie wrote:
> > I'm searching for a glaze that I've seen called Emerald Green.
> > ^6 and is a high gloss at ^6 and a matte at ^4 or ^5
>
> We use a glaze called Emerald Green at the art school where I take
> throwing lessons. I don't know how it does at ^4 or 5, but at ^6, it
> is a beautiful, glossy, transparent green that pools in ridges or
> incising, and has a 'near blue dark green' where it is very thick.
> It is a bit finicky, settling quickly, so we stir it when ready to dip.
>
> This is the recipe I was given, and it makes enough to do about 5
> gallons at dipping viscosity (amounts in grams):
>
> Emerald Green
> Cone 6 - Oxidation
>
> Nepheline Syenite 3750
> Talc 2700
> Whiting 1600
> Colemanite 1050
> Kaolin 800
> Zinc Oxide 100
> Copper Carbonate 500
>
> I would welcome any comments on ths glaze. It is one of my favourites,
> and I'd really like to do a blue version, but have no idea if it's even
> possible.
>
> --
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> I like deadlines. I especially like the whooshing sound of them
> as they go flying by.
>
> http://cr347197-a.surrey1.bc.wave.home.com/larry/
>
>
Light One Candle Pottery
Fuquay-Varina, NC
candle@nuteknet.com
John Hesselberth on wed 9 dec 98
Hi Larry,
Your Emerald Green glaze has some potential problems using accepted limit
formulas. With boron treated as a stabilizer (not in unity) it
calculates:
K20: 0.034
Na2O: 0.112
CaO: 0.418
ZnO: 0.023
Al2O3: 0.221
B2O3: 0.139
SiO2: 1.394
Silica is the problem. Normal limits for silica for a cone 6 glaze are
2.5-3.5. This could cause the copper to be very leachable. It could
also be easy to damage physically. If it were my glaze I would
definitely test it for copper leaching before putting it on food
surfaces. Limit formulas aren't perfect predictors so it may test OK.
If you decide to do that, let us know the results. By the way,
substituting Gerstely Borate for Colemanite doesn't change it enough for
me to alter what I said above. John
Larry Phillips wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>We use a glaze called Emerald Green at the art school where I take
>throwing lessons. I don't know how it does at ^4 or 5, but at ^6, it
>is a beautiful, glossy, transparent green that pools in ridges or
>incising, and has a 'near blue dark green' where it is very thick.
>It is a bit finicky, settling quickly, so we stir it when ready to dip.
>
>This is the recipe I was given, and it makes enough to do about 5
>gallons at dipping viscosity (amounts in grams):
>
>Emerald Green
>Cone 6 - Oxidation
>
>Nepheline Syenite 3750
>Talc 2700
>Whiting 1600
>Colemanite 1050
>Kaolin 800
>Zinc Oxide 100
>Copper Carbonate 500
>
>I would welcome any comments on ths glaze. It is one of my favourites,
>and I'd really like to do a blue version, but have no idea if it's even
>possible.
John Hesselberth
Frog Pond Pottery
P.O. Box 88
Pocopson, PA 19366 USA
EMail: john@frogpondpottery.com web site: http://www.frogpondpottery.com
"The whole aim of practical politics is to keep the populace alarmed, and
hence clamorous to be led to safety, by menacing it with an endless
series of hobgoblins, all of them imaginary." H.L. Mencken, 1925
Andrew Buck on wed 9 dec 98
Larry,
The Emerald Green glaze that you sent to the list is very easily changed
to a blue glaze by substituting cobalt carbonate for the copper carbonate.
Cobalt is a much stronger colorant than copper, so you will need to
decrease the amount of used.
If you add up the weight of the first six ingredients of this glaze you
will end up with a batch weight of 10,000 grams. In the case of this
glaze, the first six items are what is know as the "Glaze Base" and 10,000
grams is a very typical amount to mix at one time because, as you noted,
this amount usually fills up a five gallon bucket to a usable depth.
This base glaze, I would guess, is a shiny clear glaze, by itself, without
adding a colorant like the copper carbonate. To figure out how much
cobalt to use in place of the copper, first you will have to figure out
the percentage of copper that was added to the glaze base. To calculate
the percentage you divide the amount of copper carbonate to be added to
the glaze base (500 g.) by the total weight of the batch (10,000 g.) which
gives you a ratio of colorant to base. Then you multiply the ratio by 100
which gives you the percentage.
Example: 500 grams / 10,000 grams x 100 = 5.00 percent
I think you will see another advantage to 10,000 gram batch recipes below.
It is very easy to tell what the percentages of all the materials in the
glaze are without doing a lot of math.
Emerald Green Cone 6 - Oxidation
3750 Nepheline Syenite...... (3750 / 10,000 x 100 = 37.50 percent)
2700 Talc................... (2700 / 10,000 x 100 = 27.00 percent)
1600 Whiting ............... (1600 / 10,000 x 100 = 16.00 percent)
1050 Colemanite............. (1050 / 10.000 x 100 = 10.50 percent)
800 Kaolin................ (800 / 10,000 x 100 = 8.00 percent)
100 Zinc Oxide............ (100 / 10,000 x 100 = 1.00 percent)
10,000 grams Batch Total (10,000 / 10,000 x 100 = 100 percent)
Add:
Copper Carbonate......500 (5 percent)
Now to determine how much cobalt carbonate to add to the base recipe you
will have to do a little experimentation. My books tell me that adding as
little as 0.2 percent will make a glaze take on a noticeable blue tint and
that the usual range of addition is between 0.5 and 1.0 percent. You will
have to mix up a small test batch to find out how much cobalt is needed to
give you the blue that you want. The more you add, the bluer it will get,
until you get so dark that it looks almost black (over 1 percent, most
likely). Make up some test tiles or small pots to test the glaze on (make
sure you number the tiles or pots some way so you can tell one from the
other after firing) and try mixing up a 1000 gram batch of the glaze base
as follows:
375 g. Neph Syn
270 g. Talc
160 g. Whiting
105 g. Colemanite
80 g. Kaolin
10 g. Zinc Oxide
======
1000 g.
Add 2.5 grams of cobalt carb. (0.25 percent of the batch), mix and apply
to a test piece. Add 2.5 grams more cobalt (total of 0.5 percent of the
batch), mix and apply to another test piece. Repeat this process two more
times for a total of 10 grams of cobalt added (1.0 percent of the batch).
Fire the pots and take your pick of the best results. Now you have blue
version of a glaze that you like and you are on your way to being the next
Clayart glaze guru. 8^o Happy testing.
Andy Buck
Raincreek Pottery
Port Orchard, Washington, USA
Larry Phillips on wed 9 dec 98
John Hesselberth wrote:
>
> Your Emerald Green glaze has some potential problems using accepted
> limit formulas. With boron treated as a stabilizer (not in unity) it
> calculates:
> Silica is the problem. Normal limits for silica for a cone 6 glaze
> are 2.5-3.5. This could cause the copper to be very leachable.
> It could also be easy to damage physically.
Do you mean damage as in chipping of the surface?
> If it were my glaze I would definitely test it for copper leaching
> before putting it on food surfaces.
Oops... too late. :-)
Seriously, I'd love to test it. Can I do so without being a chemical
engineer, and without accidentally manufacturing nitroglycerine or
hydrazine?
--
---------------------------------------------------------------
I like deadlines. I especially like the whooshing sound of them
as they go flying by.
http://cr347197-a.surrey1.bc.wave.home.com/larry/
John Hesselberth on thu 10 dec 98
Larry Phillips wrote:
>Seriously, I'd love to test it. Can I do so without being a chemical
>engineer, and without accidentally manufacturing nitroglycerine or
>hydrazine?
As a reminder, I've attached the instructions for having glazes tested
for leachable metals for anyone interested. These can also be found on
Tony Hansen's site (digitalfire.com) or on my site (see below))
I've received some requests for information on how to have glazes tested
for extractable metals at the Alfred Analytical Lab. It is really quite
simple and inexpensive and we should all thank Monona Rossol for working
with Roland Hale at Alfred to get this set up. Here are the details.
1. Make a small cup (mug size or smaller--I use about 300 grams of clay),
glaze it and fire it at your standard conditions. I usually put a cone
pack right next to the cup so I will know exactly what temperature it saw
during firing.
2. Send the cup to:
Dr. Roland Hale, Director
Alfred Analytical Laboratory
4964 Kenyon Road
Alfred Station, NY 14803
3. Enclose a letter specifying what to test for and a check (U.S. funds)
based on the following fees:
There is a standard $10 fee per sample to do the acetic acid extraction
Add $10 for each metal you want analyzed
Example: Analyzing a single sample for lead, copper and cobalt would cost
$40.
If you want your samples returned there is an additional fee for shipping
and handling of $15 per order.
4. If you send multiple samples make sure they are well labeled so you
will know which result goes with which sample.
5. In 2-3 weeks you will receive a written report on your glaze. This
laboratory is a New York State approved Environmental Testing Laboratory
and your report will come on letterhead stating that. I have found
Roland, and the others in the lab I have talked to, to be extremely
helpful and courteous.
6. While there is no requirement that you send the glaze composition or
firing conditions, Roland would appreciate it if you would. He is bound
by state law to keep the information you send confidential unless you
specifically release him to disclose it. However, Roland is developing a
data base of the samples tested and will try to extract from that
information which will be useful to potters in developing leach resistant
glazes. He can do this on a unity formula basis while still maintaining
confidentiality of specific recipes.
Any questions? Call the laboratory at 607-478-8074 or fax at
607-478-5324.
John Hesselberth
Frog Pond Pottery
P.O. Box 88
Pocopson, PA 19366 USA
EMail: john@frogpondpottery.com web site: http://www.frogpondpottery.com
"The whole aim of practical politics is to keep the populace alarmed, and
hence clamorous to be led to safety, by menacing it with an endless
series of hobgoblins, all of them imaginary." H.L. Mencken, 1925
Dai Scott on thu 10 dec 98
Regarding the percentages (Judith's) of the Emerald Green glaze
(Larry's)---if the base recipe equals 10,000 grams (as I read it) then
shouldn't the percentages be:
Neph Sy 37.5
Talc 27
Whiting 16
Colemanite (G.B.) 10.5
Kaolin 8
Zinc oxide 1
Add: Copper carbonate 5
Also, my understanding (slight as it is regarding glaze formulation) is that
food-safeness and durability isn't dependent on the recipe adding up to
100%, but rather on the ratio of each ingredient to the others within the
recipe. Am I way off base?
Glad to be back home after a trip across the Rockies to Calgary for a
wonderful show last weekend---and the roads were great!
Dai Scott in Kelowna, B.C., where it finally snowed today and I played
Christmas CDs all morning.
Judith Enright on fri 11 dec 98
You are right -- my calculations were off and I bow in embarassement.
Please accept my humble apologies!
Judith (still apparently struggling with basic math and wondering when
clarity will eventually strike)
Larry Phillips on mon 14 dec 98
Chris Schafale wrote:
> Emerald Green revised
>
> Nepheline syenite 25
> Talc 18
> Whiting 11
> Gerstley Borate 12
> EPK 13
> Silica 20
> Zinc Oxide 1
>
> Copper Carbonate 5
Thanks, Chris, I'll mix up a batch as soon as possible, and give it a
try. I'll also pass it on to the fellow who mixes the glazes at the
community art center. The main thing I want to preserve about this
glaze is the wonderful transparenc of it, and the way it pools dark in
the grooves.
--
---------------------------------------------------------------
I like deadlines. I especially like the whooshing sound of them
as they go flying by.
http://cr347197-a.surrey1.bc.wave.home.com/larry/
Sally Guger on wed 15 aug 07
Thanks a lot for offering another glaze formula. I didn't really mean I was looking for "simple" glazes. What caught my attention was that your glazes resemble a look I use already. I want the students to have an appreciation for glazes with texture, depth, and color variation. I just need a few more formulas to try-because we don't plan to buy any commercial glazes this year.
For example, I can achieve interesting effects with a dark oxidation body, then layering a cream and a cobalt colored glaze that has a little granular rutile in it.
The glazes the students have trouble with are mostly the reduction-look commercially prepared glazes called "Opulence." We also need to save money and therefore plan to mix all of our own glazes. With these glazes, the color is nothing like the catalog shows unless they are applied really thick. Then they tend to flake off the pot before they are even fired.
I have more than a dozen really stable interesting glazes that I have developed on my own over the years. I just need a few more to use in layering so I can stop buying the ones called "Opulence." I will try and put a few pics on the Clayart spot on whatever that picture site is called.(Flickr I think)
If I had the formulas for Raven Wing, Mountain Mist, and Rose, I think they would work nicely with the teal, cobalt, cream, gray, turquoise, black,etc. that I already have. I fire at cone 5 or 6. Of course I would never in any way try to copy your look. As I mentioned before, it is that blended, textured look that my students have already grown to appreciate.
Thanks for your input- Sally.
Jim Willett wrote:
On Wed, 15 Aug 2007 05:52:29 -0700, Sally Guger
wrote:
>I looked at the emerald green glaze and other glazes on Jim Willett's
website, http://www.outofthefirestudio.com/emerald.html
>
> Jim, I am wondering if you are willing to share any of your other Cone
5-6 glaze formulas? I'm developing glazes for a high school ceramics
program- I have many formulas that I have used for years- but they are not
easy for students to use- (the glazes need too exact of conditions as to
thickness and cone temperature.)
>
> Thanks for the emerald green formula! Sally
>
Sally,
We would love to help and will go through our recipe book but most of the
glazes we use don't fall into the "simple" category. The glazes you see on
our pots have been tailored to suit the clay and particular firing
schedules we use, plus some are double applications, etc. We do have a
good gloss white which works well in the cone 5-6 range and we'll put it
up on the site tomorrow (minus pictures, we used it for a special order of
20 slab built planters 5 years ago and didn't keep any of them or the
glaze,around!), plus anything else we find that we think might help you
out. Possibly some other folks have some simple glazes they could
contribute to your project as well?
Have fun with your high school ceramics classes!
Jim and Cindy
Out of the Fire Studio
http://www.outofthefirestudio.com
Sally Guger
Lakespur Blue Pottery & Sculpture
Lodi, Wisconsin, USA
---------------------------------
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
Sally Guger on wed 15 aug 07
I looked at the emerald green glaze and other glazes on Jim Willett's website, http://www.outofthefirestudio.com/emerald.html
Jim, I am wondering if you are willing to share any of your other Cone 5-6 glaze formulas? I'm developing glazes for a high school ceramics program- I have many formulas that I have used for years- but they are not easy for students to use- (the glazes need too exact of conditions as to thickness and cone temperature.)
Thanks for the emerald green formula! Sally
Sally Guger
Lakespur Blue Pottery & Sculpture
Lodi, Wisnosin, USA
---------------------------------
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.
Jim Willett on thu 16 aug 07
On Wed, 15 Aug 2007 05:52:29 -0700, Sally Guger
wrote:
>I looked at the emerald green glaze and other glazes on Jim Willett's
website, http://www.outofthefirestudio.com/emerald.html
>
> Jim, I am wondering if you are willing to share any of your other Cone
5-6 glaze formulas? I'm developing glazes for a high school ceramics
program- I have many formulas that I have used for years- but they are not
easy for students to use- (the glazes need too exact of conditions as to
thickness and cone temperature.)
>
> Thanks for the emerald green formula! Sally
>
Sally,
We would love to help and will go through our recipe book but most of the
glazes we use don't fall into the "simple" category. The glazes you see on
our pots have been tailored to suit the clay and particular firing
schedules we use, plus some are double applications, etc. We do have a
good gloss white which works well in the cone 5-6 range and we'll put it
up on the site tomorrow (minus pictures, we used it for a special order of
20 slab built planters 5 years ago and didn't keep any of them or the
glaze,around!), plus anything else we find that we think might help you
out. Possibly some other folks have some simple glazes they could
contribute to your project as well?
Have fun with your high school ceramics classes!
Jim and Cindy
Out of the Fire Studio
http://www.outofthefirestudio.com
Jim Willett on thu 16 aug 07
On Wed, 15 Aug 2007 21:44:34 -0700, Sally Guger
wrote:
>........
> If I had the formulas for Raven Wing, Mountain Mist, and Rose, I think
they would work nicely with the teal, cobalt, cream, gray, turquoise,
black,etc. that I already have. I fire at cone 5 or 6. Of course I would
never in any way try to copy your look. As I mentioned before, it is that
blended, textured look that my students have already grown to appreciate.
>
> Thanks for your input- Sally.......
>
>
>
>
Sally,
We will respectfully decline to give those particular formulas away just
yet. There are some "tricks" there which we wish to keep to ourselves for
awhile.I suppose it could be likened a bit to the Home Ec teacher asking
Colonel Sanders for the secret recipe of herbs and spices for her class.
Just not comfortable doing that at this point.We appreciate your work and
what you are trying to do but just can't part with those glazes yet as we
are using them to make our living. We trust you wouldn't "copy" us but we
already have potters in this part of the world that have tried their best
to duplicate what we are doing and we just want to sit on the glaze
formulas and techniques awhile longer.They represent all the work Cindy
and I have done since we got together 8 years ago. Maybe we should write a
book. Anyway we hope you will understand. Does any one else on the list
have some input on sharing "special" glazes? Are we being unreasonable?
Jim and Cindy
Out of the Fire Studio
http://www.outofthefirestudio.com
Tom at Hutchtel.net on thu 16 aug 07
Jim,
I have to agree with you. I don't mind sharing those recipes which are in
general circulation....we used Ron Roy OBM, Yellow Salt (slightly modified)
Conrad's moonlight (again slightly modified), and a bunch of others.
Will I give out our modification to Yellow sale? No. For sales we call it
the new blue. It was a simple mod that anyone playing with the glaze could
do in their first try.
I think too many want to just get a recipe, slap it on their pots and away
we go, claiming that you owe it to them to divulge your 8 years of work. We
all know that generally doesn't work because of all the variables involved.
I think I've found that you develop your own look and style when you do your
own work. If you're not willing to do the work, use stuff that is already
in the books. As John Nance said in Mud-pie Dilemma (I'm re-reading this
one right now) there is no simple way to becoming a potter. You can't short
cut it. You have to learn it all.
Your answer to Sally was very respectful and gentle.
Best,
Tom Wirt
Hutchinson, MN
twirt@hutchtel.net
www.claycoyote.com
>>Subject: Re: emerald green glaze
> On Wed, 15 Aug 2007 21:44:34 -0700, Sally Guger
> wrote:
>
>>........
>> If I had the formulas for Raven Wing, Mountain Mist, and Rose, I think
> they would work nicely with the teal, cobalt, cream, gray, turquoise,
> black,etc. that I already have. I fire at cone 5 or 6. Of course I would
> never in any way try to copy your look. As I mentioned before, it is that
> blended, textured look that my students have already grown to appreciate.
>>
> Sally,
> We will respectfully decline to give those particular formulas away just
> yet. There are some "tricks" there which we wish to keep to ourselves for
> awhile.I suppose it could be likened a bit to the Home Ec teacher asking
> Just not comfortable doing that at this point.We appreciate your work and
> what you are trying to do but just can't part with those glazes yet as we
> are using them to make our living. we
> already have potters in this part of the world that have tried their best
> to duplicate what we are doing and we just want to sit on the glaze
> formulas and techniques awhile longer.They represent all the work Cindy
> and I have done since we got together 8 years ago.
lela martens on thu 16 aug 07
Hi,
I haven`t met a glaze as simple as `Ebony`. It fits on my main 2 clays,
Plainsman M340 and M390, doesn`t craze, doesn`t run. I have fired it
successfully from ^4 to an almost ^7.
Barnard slip--50%
frit 3124----50%
It`s a very dark, shiny brown.
You may have a problem finding the Barnard. I was told by Plainsman that
it is no more, but later found it, or a very close sub dubbed the same
name at Green Barn in B.C. The package credited Laguna.
You can also check Alisa`s work and tests at
www.alisapots.dk/ Others on the list also have good tests and recipes
on their sites.
Good luck,
Lela
>
> >I looked at the emerald green glaze and other glazes on Jim Willett's
>website, http://www.outofthefirestudio.com/emerald.html
> >
> > Thanks for the emerald green formula! Sally
> >
>
>Sally,
>We would love to help and will go through our recipe book but most of the
>glazes we use don't fall into the "simple" category.
Possibly some other folks have some simple glazes they could
>contribute to your project as well?
_________________________________________________________________
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lela martens on thu 16 aug 07
Hello again,
>On Wed, 15 Aug 2007 21:44:34 -0700, Sally Guger
> wrote:
>
> >........
> > If I had the formulas for Raven Wing, Mountain Mist, and Rose, I think
>they would work nicely with the teal, cobalt, cream, gray, turquoise,
>black,etc. that I already have. I fire at cone 5 or 6. > >
> >
> >
>Sally,
An easy way to access tha archives is through
www.potters.org/categories.htm
a gazillion recipes
>We will respectfully decline to give those particular formulas away just
>yet. There are some "tricks" there which we wish to keep to ourselves for
>awhile.I suppose it could be likened a bit to the Home Ec teacher asking
>Colonel Sanders for the secret recipe of herbs and spices for her class.
Are we being unreasonable?
>
>Jim and Cindy
>Out of the Fire Studio
No, I don`t think you are being at all unreasonable...you handled the
awkwardness
nicely.
Lela, who one of these days will get up there to see your gallery. I`ll
hitch a ride with
my `always anxious to drive`
anywhere travel buddy has some work at the craft council gallery, apparently
close
to you. We are in Lethbridge.
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Dannon Rhudy on thu 16 aug 07
Jim, there is nothing unreasonable about you declining to
give your glazes and years of work to anyone at all. There
are a zillion glazes available to anyone who wants them, both
in books and on the internet. There are commercial glazes
by the hundreds available from various clay & glaze companies.
So no one will go without, eh? Many people are happy to
give away their glazes, and many are happy not to do so.
Our glazes/surfaces become our own through our work
and experience, anyway. Students can experiment, teachers
can experiment. If they don't wish to do so, they can make
other choices.
Such decisions are personal, and always no-fault.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Jim Willett on thu 16 aug 07
On Thu, 16 Aug 2007 17:34:58 +0000, lela martens
wrote:
...
>Lela, who one of these days will get up there to see your gallery. I`ll
>hitch a ride with
>my `always anxious to drive`
>anywhere travel buddy has some work at the craft council gallery,
apparently
>close
>to you. We are in Lethbridge.
....
Sounds like our teenage son!!"Always anxious to drive" . We'd love to have
you visit Lela. We've got those four pots of Charlie Hilton's sitting in
our front window right now. Real pieces of Alberta history. Always happy
to have Clayarters visit. Craft council gallery is just a few blocks away.
Jim
Out of the Fire Studio
http://www.outofthefirestudio.com
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