Chris Schafale on tue 5 jan 99
Greetings!
I'm finally working on the iron reds I've been collecting recipes
for, and need some help. I mixed up test batches of Ketchup Red,
Tomato Red, Berry Rust, a red posted by Marty Anderson, and a cone 6
variation on Red Reserve, plus some glaze-calc-playing-around
variations of these. I had test pieces of three different clays --
Standard 112 (buff stoneware with manganese specks), Campbell's
Golden Tan (buff stoneware, no specks), and Campbell's Warm Brown
(red-brown stoneware). I fired to cone 5, Skutt 1027 with
controller, "Slow" speed, Envirovent on the whole time. I also tried
a batch to cone 5 using a much slower schedule previously posted by
Janet Walker, with extended time in the 700-900 range. On both
firings, I got an astonishing variety of browns (including, in case
anyone is interested, a lovely, very transparent dark root-beer sort
of brown from the Red Reserve variation), but only the merest hints
of red. Results were similar with all three clays. I tried
refiring some of the first group in the next bisque firing (to 04),
and I did get some definite reddening of my browns, although none of
the results were what I'd really call red all over. Some of them
turned more gold than red, and some got more black.
So, what else do you suggest? So far, suggestions have included
firing higher, applying glaze more thickly, and trying a different
RIO. I have read that there is great variation in different RIO's --
can anyone who has had good results tell me where they get theirs?
Also, I have seen notes that the clay-body used can affect the
results dramatically, but no details as to which bodies yield the
best results -- can anyone make a suggestion?
Thanks for any thoughts.
Chris
Shivering in my unheated studio but delighted to be splashing about
in glaze tests at last.
Light One Candle Pottery
Fuquay-Varina, NC
candle@nuteknet.com
Marty Anderson on wed 6 jan 99
Chris, the iron red I gave you needs to be fired at ^6 and applied thickly.
As to where we get the RIO, I will ask Jim Brooks, he does the purchasing
for the school. Mine fired at 8 gives a really nice blackish, coppery
metallic.
Marty
martya@airmail.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Schafale
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 9:59 AM
Subject: iron reds: results and questions
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Greetings!
I'm finally working on the iron reds I've been collecting recipes
for, and need some help. I mixed up test batches of Ketchup Red,
Tomato Red, Berry Rust, a red posted by Marty Anderson, and a cone 6
variation on Red Reserve, plus some glaze-calc-playing-around
variations of these. I had test pieces of three different clays --
Standard 112 (buff stoneware with manganese specks), Campbell's
Golden Tan (buff stoneware, no specks), and Campbell's Warm Brown
(red-brown stoneware). I fired to cone 5, Skutt 1027 with
controller, "Slow" speed, Envirovent on the whole time. I also tried
a batch to cone 5 using a much slower schedule previously posted by
Janet Walker, with extended time in the 700-900 range. On both
firings, I got an astonishing variety of browns (including, in case
anyone is interested, a lovely, very transparent dark root-beer sort
of brown from the Red Reserve variation), but only the merest hints
of red. Results were similar with all three clays. I tried
refiring some of the first group in the next bisque firing (to 04),
and I did get some definite reddening of my browns, although none of
the results were what I'd really call red all over. Some of them
turned more gold than red, and some got more black.
So, what else do you suggest? So far, suggestions have included
firing higher, applying glaze more thickly, and trying a different
RIO. I have read that there is great variation in different RIO's --
can anyone who has had good results tell me where they get theirs?
Also, I have seen notes that the clay-body used can affect the
results dramatically, but no details as to which bodies yield the
best results -- can anyone make a suggestion?
Thanks for any thoughts.
Chris
Shivering in my unheated studio but delighted to be splashing about
in glaze tests at last.
Light One Candle Pottery
Fuquay-Varina, NC
candle@nuteknet.com
David Hewitt on wed 6 jan 99
Chris,
I don't know how red an iron red you are hoping to achieve, but the
reddest I have achieved is by including Bone Ash, some 15%, to provide
P2O5 and 10% RIO.
David
In message , Chris Schafale writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
snip
>So, what else do you suggest? So far, suggestions have included
>firing higher, applying glaze more thickly, and trying a different
>RIO. I have read that there is great variation in different RIO's --
>can anyone who has had good results tell me where they get theirs?
>Also, I have seen notes that the clay-body used can affect the
>results dramatically, but no details as to which bodies yield the
>best results -- can anyone make a suggestion?
>
>Thanks for any thoughts.
>
>Chris
>Shivering in my unheated studio but delighted to be splashing about
>in glaze tests at last.
>Light One Candle Pottery
>Fuquay-Varina, NC
>candle@nuteknet.com
>
--
David Hewitt
David Hewitt Pottery ,
7 Fairfield Road, Caerleon, Newport,
South Wales, NP6 1DQ, UK. Tel:- +44 (0) 1633 420647
FAX:- +44 (0) 870 1617274
Own Web site http://www.dhpot.demon.co.uk
IMC Web site http://digitalfire.com/education/people/hewitt.htm
Laurel Carey on thu 7 jan 99
Chris Schafale wrote:
>
> So, what else do you suggest? So far, suggestions have included
> firing higher, applying glaze more thickly, and trying a different
> RIO. I have read that there is great variation in different RIO's --
> can anyone who has had good results tell me where they get theirs?
> Also, I have seen notes that the clay-body used can affect the
> results dramatically, but no details as to which bodies yield the
> best results -- can anyone make a suggestion?
>
> Thanks for any thoughts.
hi chris,
ketchup red here again. i just did a load and it was very red. i fire
to cone 6, with a halfhour soak at the end. the soak is key, i have
found.
yes, you could apply more thickly. where thin, the ketchup red turns a
very dark brown, almost black. but beware, if it is too thick it will
run like crazy.
i get regular rio, not the spanish, and i bought it from highwater clay
in asheville, nc. the claybody i use is also from there, it is called
red rock, a red-brown stoneware. i have used the glaze on several other
claybodies, i don't think it matters. well, i guess i wouldn't use it
on white...
laurel
lacarey@ioa.com
asheville, nc, usa
Jeanne Murdock on fri 8 jan 99
At 12:57 PM 1/5/99 -0500, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hell-o Chris
>
Have you tried a white clay body?. I found that the iron reds worked well on
a P5 porcelain (highwater). Will be trying standard porcelain soon!
Good luck
jeanne - concord, nc
Joyce Lee on sat 9 jan 99
I alternately use the "regular" RIO as purchased from Aardvark and a
"99% pure" RIO purchased from Archie Bray. As bagged, the "regular" RIO
is much darker than the bright red/orange 99% one. However, maybe it's
my untutored eye and later I'll perceive them differently, but I can't
tell a whit of difference in the recipes I've mixed. This is no
reflection on the Archie Bray...they just sold me the RIO I requested
....very helpful they were, too.
Joyce
In the Mojave scrambling to make more smallish bowls for the bisque
firing due soon...these are for copper red glaze...I looove one of the
pots from my last disastrous firing...it's pale gray with lots of bands
of dark red, with blushes of pink and mauve...and little dagger-shaped
vertical dribbles of shiny copper red all over. However, a post fell on
it when the shelf fell and it's gently bent on one side.
Louis Katz on sun 10 jan 99
Hi Joyce,
The Bray Foundation Clay Business sells three varieties of Red Iron Oxide.
One the 99% pure is the most expensive. There are few places where this
purity is needed. One is in Akios leaded overglaze red. In this glaze the
purity makes a big difference. I believe they started carrying it becuase
he was a resident and needed it.
I have been told that there is a difference in cone ten iron reds between
the pure and less pure irons, and would love to see side by side tests
inlcuding some accounting for the smaller amount of iron in the impure iron
oxides. But , this is a project I don't want to tackle it.
The least pure of the Brays irons (90%) seems to produce less intense hues
in celadons, muddiness, but again I can't confirm this, it just seemed that
way and I never did a good side by side test.
As a result of this I sold the middle grade to almost everyone, unless they
were coloring clay. For that purpose the cheapest seemed the best bet.
My wife uses the 99% pure in one of her terra sigellatas. She continues to
use it despite its expense, because her test came out well.
My 2 year old price list gives these prices based on hundred pound
quantities
99% RIO $3.60
Spanish Red $0.74
Red 90% $0.58
Louis
Joyce Lee wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I alternately use the "regular" RIO as purchased from Aardvark and a
> "99% pure" RIO purchased from Archie Bray. As bagged, the "regular" RIO
> is much darker than the bright red/orange 99% one. However, maybe it's
> my untutored eye and later I'll perceive them differently, but I can't
> tell a whit of difference in the recipes I've mixed. This is no
> reflection on the Archie Bray...they just sold me the RIO I requested
> ...very helpful they were, too.
>
--
Louis Katz
lkatz@falcon.tamucc.edu
NCECA Director At Large
Texas A&M-CC Division of Visual and Performing Arts Webmaster (512)
994-5987
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