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mending raku

updated tue 15 dec 98

 

Veena Raghavan on wed 11 nov 98

Just having had a wonderful response to a question on Clayart, I am
being audacious enough to ask for more help.
I did a raku firing about a month ago, and two really nice pieces
got broken after the firing!. One is a menorah, which broke in half. The
other is a bowl with intricate handles, and one of the handles got broken.
If anyone has a way to mend raku breaks of this type, even if it means
refiring, I would be very grateful if they would share the information.
Thanks in advance.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520

Arturo M DeVitalis on thu 12 nov 98

It's been posted before...try PC7...strong, can be machined, same color
as Raku ware.

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Greg Lamont on fri 13 nov 98

At 09:26 AM 11/11/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Just having had a wonderful response to a question on Clayart, I am
>being audacious enough to ask for more help.
> I did a raku firing about a month ago, and two really nice pieces
>got broken after the firing!. One is a menorah, which broke in half. The
>other is a bowl with intricate handles, and one of the handles got broken.
>If anyone has a way to mend raku breaks of this type, even if it means
>refiring, I would be very grateful if they would share the information.
> Thanks in advance.
>Veena
>Veena Raghavan
>75124.2520
>
Hi Veena,

I just mended a crack in a raku piece with PC-7 Epoxy Paste, mfd. by the
Protective Products Co. of Allentown, PA. I found it at our local True
Value hardware store. The crack was in an area that was blackened by the
carbon and it so happens that PC-7 is also black. The result is that the
crack is now all but invisible! After cure, PC-7 may be painted, sanded,
drilled, filed, or sawn. Of course, tThe usual disclaimers re product
endorsement apply. I just think it's a good product and may be what you're
looking for.
Regards,

Susan Wertheimer David on fri 13 nov 98

The menorah thatbroke in half may be lost unless the break is clean and then
you can try gluing it with E6000. If using a mat glaze the repair line can be
fill in with something like mahogany wood filler which has a similiar texture
to the mat glaze if it is not sanded'.
Susan

Veena Raghavan on sun 15 nov 98

Hi Greg,
It's great to know that someone has actually used PC with
successful results. It was suggested in reply to my query, and as soon as I
get the chance I am going to try it. Will let you know what happens.
Thanks so much for your help.
All the best
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com

Karen Shapiro on tue 17 nov 98

Hi Eydie,

As a raku sculptor I deal with things like this often. I usually try to
"blacken" the line showing to look like smoke, so it looks like a "raku
crack". I use either india ink or shoe polish. Give it a try! Or if not
appropriate, I'll feather in with Testor's enamel, which looks like glaze.

Karen in Sonoma


Greg Lamont on fri 20 nov 98

At 12:36 PM 11/16/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>------------------
>I have a raku piece that cracked at the seam after firing. I could not
>find the PC epoxy (that Veena recommended) at Home Depot, so I bought a
>2-part epoxy that the salesperson said was strong.
>
>It is working well, but I have the faintest of lines showing at the break.
>
>
>Eydie

Hi Eydie,

It's PC-7 Heavy Duty Epoxy Paste, mf'd. by Protective Coating Co. of
Allentown, PA (http://www.pcepoxy.com).
I bought mine at our local True Value Hardware store. It's the only black
epoxy that I know of. It won't completely eliminate the crack. but it
blends in much better than regular epoxy, especially in the black areas of
raku-fired pieces.
>

Sheilah Bliss on sun 22 nov 98


In a message dated 11/20/98 11:36:58 AM, you wrote:

<<----------------------------Original message----------------------------
At 12:36 PM 11/16/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>------------------
>I have a raku piece that cracked at the seam after firing. I could not
>find the PC epoxy (that Veena recommended) at Home Depot, so I bought a
>2-part epoxy that the salesperson said was strong.
>
>It is working well, but I have the faintest of lines showing at the break.
>
>
>Eydie
>>
Hello Raku menders -

I've used something called J-B Weld. It's a cold-weld, 2-part metal/epoxy
resin. So far, it's shown to be very strong. It's black-raku colored and can
be sanded, drilled, machined, drilled when cured. I used it to repair my
broken car door -- that's still holding up well, so I believe my raku-seconds
fixes will continue to be just fine -- the J-B Weld much stronger than the
clay. Picked it up at Eagle Home Centers, although I think Home Depot carries
it also. They also have a faster curing product called J-B Quick.
Sheilah

Veena Raghavan on sun 13 dec 98

I would like to thank everyone who responded for my call for help on the
subject of mending raku. I have not as yet been able to locate any PC-7 or
other opoxies mentioned, but I have only tried Home Depot and one auto
supply store. Once I have the holidays behind me, I am going on the hunt,
and if I cannot find it will contact the manufacturers.
Thank you everyone. Happy Holidays and Happy New Year.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com

Karen Shapiro on mon 14 dec 98

Hi Veena,

thanks to you for the post -- I got lots of good info too.
The best place I have found to locate PC7 is your ordinary local hardware
store.
Happy holidays to you too,
Karen in Sonoma