David Hendley on sat 29 aug 98
Just to muddy the slip a little more.....
When mixing clay in a mixer
Steve says to add ingredients in this order:
water
fine clay
coarse clay
fillers
grog
Tim (quoting Tichane) gives this order:
coarse materials
fine materials
Here's my mixing order, following the advise given for
my Bluebird mixer:
water
fillers (feldspar, flint, talc)
fine clay
coarse clay
grog
hmm...whatever works.
I think I'll try some different combinations and see what I think.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
At 10:23 AM 8/28/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>>I would suggest the following as a more workable and reliable general
>>purpose stoneware body:
>>34 lbs H2O (this may have to be adjusted; keep a record of how much you use
>>each time.)
>>30 lbs Tenn. Ball. A very plastic clay. Helps workability.
>>30 lbs Goldart or Roseville stoneware. A somewhat coarser clay. Still
>>plastic.
>>20 lbs Hawthorne Bond. Medium grain Fire clay. plastic as these clays go.
>>Helps with standing power on the wheel. Now we have a nice distribution of
>>particle sizes.
>>12 lbs Custer Feldspar. Predictable, slow-acting flux. Low in solubles.
>>8 lbs Silica. Opens up the body a wee bit and helps glaze fit.
>>3 lbs fine grog. Opens the body for good drying characteristics and helps
>>the clay stand up on the wheel.
>>1 lb medium grog.
>>
>>Put the water in the mixer and add the ingredients in the order listed. If
>>the clay seems to be getting too stiff as you add ingredients, you can
>spray
>>in some water. If you get done and its too soft, sprinkle in some goldart.
>>Mixing clay a bit on the soft side helps plasticity, too.
>>Hope this helps.
>>
>>steve grimmer
>>marion illinois
>
>
>Hi Steve,
>
>Appreciate the notes. I happened to be reading Tichane's Clay Bodies and
>noted that if you mix dry first, he recommends putting in the coarsest
>materials first, then the fine particled ingredients.
>
>Also, what meshes are you recommending? e.g., Hawthorne has 2 meshes, the
>coarser of which apparently has calcium bit problems (from previous list
>discussions). Tichane also talks about the melt rates for various
>grinds....finer being faster. Any thoughts on all this?
>
>TIA
>
>Tom Wirt
>Clay Coyote Pottery
>Hutchinson, MN
>claypot@hutchtel.net
>
Tom Wirt on sun 30 aug 98
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Just to muddy the slip a little more.....
When mixing clay in a mixer
Steve says to add ingredients in this order:
water
fine clay
coarse clay
fillers
grog
Tom (quoting Tichane) gives this order:
coarse materials
fine materials
Here's my mixing order, following the advise given for
my Bluebird mixer:
water
fillers (feldspar, flint, talc)
fine clay
coarse clay
grog
hmm...whatever works.
I think I'll try some different combinations and see what I think.
David Hendley
>>
David,
Had lunch at Mel's on your plates. Thank you for improving the lunch (Mel's
cookings OK too). Anyway. Please note that Tichane is talking about
pre-mixing DRY. Steve and you are mixing wet. AHA both are right!!!
Tom
Dale Neese on wed 18 sep 02
Evan,
sure you can mix a claybody like a glaze. You should wet all the ingredients
but not to the point of having liquid enough to pour like water unless you
have a filter press. I mix thoroughly in a big buckets with an attachment on
my drill. Let it set for several days. Move to plaster slab. A clay mixer is
even better. The pugmill is a labor and time saver when the clay firms up to
the point of being able to hand wedge it before running it through. If you
don't have the labor saving equipment available there is the manual method
with hand wedging or with your feet on a clean concrete floor.
Go for it.
Dale Tex
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