honthaas on wed 28 oct 98
It is time to replace an ancient analog pyrometer. Anyone have opinions on
what to get? Analog? Digital? Brands? veroncia
Donn Buchfinck on thu 29 oct 98
There is a digital pyrometer made by Fluke
you can hook a wire up to the thermal couple and plug the thing in as you need
it, it works great, and you need only one per studio because you can use it
on all your kilns, you just need a thermal couple on each kiln.
hope this makes sense.
Donn Buchfinck
Don & Isao Morrill on sat 31 oct 98
At 08:57 10/29/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>There is a digital pyrometer made by Fluke
>you can hook a wire up to the thermal couple and plug the thing in as you
need
>it, it works great, and you need only one per studio because you can use it
>on all your kilns, you just need a thermal couple on each kiln.
>hope this makes sense.
>
>
>Donn Buchfinck
>
>FLUKE does make an excellent thermo-couple and meter. It is somewhat pricy
and for most potters quite a fancy frill. The T.C's are also quite
expensive,especially the s/s shielded ones. Perhaps this sounds like
nit-picking but IMO it is not the numbers,which require frequent
calibration on most pyrometers, but the relationship between numbers and
observation. Too great a dependancy upon fancy tools tends to encourage
sloppiness rather than precision.
Depite the fancy tools we are doing little not accomplished by our
predecessors millenia ago. Don & Isao
PS, Still....the Fluke is a nice piece of work.
j isaac on sun 30 mar 08
I just got a duncan DA 1029n kiln with a kiln sitter. My question is this. It only has 3 settings on my pyrometer high fire...ceramic...and overglaze. I have done much research, but I don't see how I am going to be able to control the speed and hold for cool down, or for that matter have any idea for length of time for my cones. ( I know watch em, and keep records) I know I can use the kiln sitter, but then how do you hold, and then slowly go down? Won't this greatly effect my glazing?
For crying out loud!!! When I started I was just looking for a fun hobby, next thing I know this "hobby" has taken over my life. throwing...Chemistry...pyrometers....cooking times...cones....clay bodies...18 million glaze recipes.....etc. etc. That's not even bringing up the amount of money!!! and whats worse? My walls still aren't exact, and what's worse then that? I still love it. OMG, I'm ruined!!!
The Pretend Potter
Jodi
Nobody Special on sun 30 mar 08
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 06:46:56 -0700, j isaac wrote:
>I just got a duncan DA 1029n kiln with a kiln sitter. My question is this.
It only has 3 settings on my pyrometer high fire...ceramic...and overglaze.
---snip---
>
>The Pretend Potter
> Jodi
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
Jodi...
I had an old Duncan, and like you was confused by the markings. Forget
about the high-fire, ceramic, and overglaze markings and just think of them
as low (overglaze), medium (ceramic), and high (high-fire). A good starting
ramp is to fire on low for 2 hours, medium for 2 hours, then up to high
until your target cone bends about half way over. At this point you can
lower the dial for a soak or firing down. If it is a bisque firing, leave
the kiln on high until the target cone bends to the point that the tip
touches the shelf, then shut it off. Once your pots start getting thinner,
you can speed things up. Relying on the kiln sitter to shut things off is a
bad habit. Having said that, it's fine for bisque, where close enough is
good enough, but control the kiln yourself for glaze firings.
All the best.
...James
j isaac on mon 31 mar 08
Nobody Special wrote: On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 06:46:56 -0700, j isaac wrote:
James,
Isn't that so simple. Thanks. Do you think this kind of schedule will work for lechin glazes?
>______________________________________________________________________________
Jodi...
I had an old Duncan, and like you was confused by the markings. Forget
about the high-fire, ceramic, and overglaze markings and just think of them
as low (overglaze), medium (ceramic), and high (high-fire). A good starting
ramp is to fire on low for 2 hours, medium for 2 hours, then up to high
until your target cone bends about half way over. At this point you can
lower the dial for a soak or firing down. If it is a bisque firing, leave
the kiln on high until the target cone bends to the point that the tip
touches the shelf, then shut it off. Once your pots start getting thinner,
you can speed things up. Relying on the kiln sitter to shut things off is a
bad habit. Having said that, it's fine for bisque, where close enough is
good enough, but control the kiln yourself for glaze firings.
All the best.
...James
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
The Pretend Potter
Jodi
Nobody Special on mon 31 mar 08
On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 04:55:27 -0700, j isaac wrote:
>Nobody Special wrote: On Sun, 30 Mar 2008
06:46:56 -0700, j isaac wrote:
>
>James,
> Isn't that so simple. Thanks. Do you think this kind of schedule will
work for lechin glazes?
>>______________________________________________________________________________
>
Jodi...
I used that ramp for everything, lichen glazes included. When my work got
thinner I sped it way up. Now I use computer kilns, so the magic genie
takes care of everything for me. You learn much more by doing it yourself,
at least for a while.
...James
| |
|
