Matthew Bullis on mon 18 jan 99
well, I have always liked clay sculpting since I am blind and work with my
hands a great deal. I think I could handle firing if I was really carefull,
but what about glazing? If I have no sight, how would I make sure that the
entire piece was covered in glaze? I think it is right that you have to get
the piece leather-hard, then fire it and then glaze it, and then fire it
again? Is the proper order?
Thanks a lot.
Matthew
Net-Tamer V 1.11 - Test Drive
Giddings, Maxine on tue 19 jan 99
Matthew:
This is just an idea. I have had no previous experience with
working with someone unsighted. However, I think that you should make your
pieces with a noticeable indentation or ridge about one quarter of an inch
or so from the bottom. The ridge or indentation should go all around the
bottom no matter whether the piece is cylindrical, or a sculpted piece with
irregular surfaces. Then, you should place wax - a good one such as an
Aftosa wax - on the bottom up to the ridge or indentation. After that, dip
the piece - submerge it completely into the glaze. Perhaps use tongs to
hold the piece as you are dipping. Then, remove the tongs and, knowing
where you placed the tongs ( Maybe build your pieces with a marker ( a bulge
or indentation or some Braille marker - you don't have to know Braille to
make some sort of mark. I would make take a small, rubber stamp and stamp
on the top of each of my pieces where I am going to place the tongs to help
me know where 12:00 is ) so that you can tell where 12 o' clock on the piece
is . Then place the tongs at about two o' clock or somewhere each time.) ,
dip those two spots where the tongs were into the glaze. Whether you dip
once or twice is up to your glaze and the results you want. Have a sighted
person review you completing the process a few times. That way, you will be
sure you have acquired the skill of covering the tong marks properly. Of
course, you must let the wax dry before applying the glaze. Maybe apply the
wax several hours before or some days before. You can place the wax into a
large, flat pan and make sure it reaches no higher than the indentation or
ridge that you will have included in your sculpting.
Regards. Maxine Giddings Clayworks
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matthew Bullis [SMTP:matthew.bullis@nivets.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 18, 1999 12:43 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: new to the list with a question about glazing your piece
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> well, I have always liked clay sculpting since I am blind and work with my
> hands a great deal. I think I could handle firing if I was really
> carefull,
> but what about glazing? If I have no sight, how would I make sure that the
> entire piece was covered in glaze? I think it is right that you have to
> get
> the piece leather-hard, then fire it and then glaze it, and then fire it
> again? Is the proper order?
> Thanks a lot.
> Matthew
> Net-Tamer V 1.11 - Test Drive
Martin Howard on tue 19 jan 99
Matthew, I will be having a blind student/friend visit my pottery, so I
find your posting very interesting.
One point to remember is not to do the first firing until the pot is no
longer cold when put to your cheek. If it still feels cold, then it
needs a little longer on the shelf.
But how to glaze? Well, if you throw everything with a good roll of clay
at the base, or provide a good finger hold at the base by the way of
throwing or turning, then you can dip the piece until your fingers just
touch the glaze. That should work for modelled work as well. Just think
of how to hold the piece upside down, dipping into a bucket of slip or
glaze. Your sense of touch will do the rest.
Martin Howard
Webbs Cottage Pottery and Press
Woolpits Road, Great Saling
BRAINTREE
Essex CM7 5DZ
01371 850 423
araneajo@gn.apc.org
Rick hugel on tue 19 jan 99
Matthew,
Leather-hard is when you trim the piece. After is it trimmed and formed
just the way you want, you let it dry completely. Only then do you fire it
the first time. The first firing is called a bisque firing. It is low
fired to anywhere between 700 degrees to 800 degrees centigrade. If you
fire over that it is difficult to glaze the piece(s). By submerging the
entire piece in a bucket of glaze and turning it upside down and sideways
you would probably get the entire piece completely covered with glaze.
Remember to wax the part of the piece that sits on the table or stand so
glaze doesn't cover that part or it will stick the the kiln shelf.
Hope this helps.
Happy potting
Rick
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>well, I have always liked clay sculpting since I am blind and work with my
>hands a great deal. I think I could handle firing if I was really carefull,
>but what about glazing? If I have no sight, how would I make sure that the
>entire piece was covered in glaze? I think it is right that you have to get
>the piece leather-hard, then fire it and then glaze it, and then fire it
>again? Is the proper order?
>Thanks a lot.
>Matthew
>Net-Tamer V 1.11 - Test Drive
Chris Schafale on wed 20 jan 99
Just a wee correction to the message below. Bisque firing temps, at
least for stoneware, would be around 990-1050 degrees centigrade,
if as most people seem to, you bisque to cone 06 -04.
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Matthew,
> Leather-hard is when you trim the piece. After is it trimmed and formed
> just the way you want, you let it dry completely. Only then do you fire it
> the first time. The first firing is called a bisque firing. It is low
> fired to anywhere between 700 degrees to 800 degrees centigrade. If you
> fire over that it is difficult to glaze the piece(s). By submerging the
> entire piece in a bucket of glaze and turning it upside down and sideways
> you would probably get the entire piece completely covered with glaze.
> Remember to wax the part of the piece that sits on the table or stand so
> glaze doesn't cover that part or it will stick the the kiln shelf.
> Hope this helps.
> Happy potting
> Rick
>
>
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >
> >well, I have always liked clay sculpting since I am blind and work with my
> >hands a great deal. I think I could handle firing if I was really carefull,
> >but what about glazing? If I have no sight, how would I make sure that the
> >entire piece was covered in glaze? I think it is right that you have to get
> >the piece leather-hard, then fire it and then glaze it, and then fire it
> >again? Is the proper order?
> >Thanks a lot.
> >Matthew
> >Net-Tamer V 1.11 - Test Drive
>
>
Light One Candle Pottery
Fuquay-Varina, NC
candle@nuteknet.com
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