Bryan Hannis on tue 1 dec 98
Hi
Could anyone tell me how many "ports" one should have in a kiln to
effectively sample the atmosphere with an oxy probe and where they should be??
Bryan Hannis
Nils Lou on wed 2 dec 98
I think it's best to place the probe in one port; it should be centered in
the door,roof, or rear where it can be conveniently read and not get
overheated. It should not be in a flame path. What you are after is a
representative sampling that can be uniformly compared from one firing to
the next.
Hope this is helpful, NL
On Tue, 1 Dec 1998, Bryan Hannis wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi
>
> Could anyone tell me how many "ports" one should have in a kiln to
> effectively sample the atmosphere with an oxy probe and where they should be??
>
> Bryan Hannis
>
Nils Lou on thu 3 dec 98
I think it's best to place the probe in one port; it should be centered in
the door,roof, or rear where it can be conveniently read and not get
overheated. It should not be in a flame path. What you are after is a
representative sampling that can be uniformly compared from one firing to
the next.
Hope this is helpful, NL
On Tue, 1 Dec 1998, Bryan Hannis wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi
>
> Could anyone tell me how many "ports" one should have in a kiln to
> effectively sample the atmosphere with an oxy probe and where they should be??
>
> Bryan Hannis
>
ginny bivaletz on tue 21 dec 99
my question is whether the use of a seperate
pyrometer is needed when using the axner oxyprobe. i
understand the temperature reading is a bit more
complicated because of the conversion needed to
farenheit, but after reading the archives i seemed to
get mixed messages.
i wonder if any folks out there using the oxyprobe
would respond to this as to whether they rely on the
oxyprobe and cones, ofcourse, for the temp. reading or
have a pyrometer also, and why?
thanks - ginny fromn orcas island where it is NOT
raining today and i am transfering all my glaze
chemicals into 5 gal. buckets.
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Jennifer Boyer on wed 22 dec 99
Hi Ginny,
The Oxyprobe reads about 137 when I've reached 2300 degrees
depending on heat work....I'm not reading my kiln charts so this
is an estimate. Anyway you can see that the probe won't be as
quick to show temp changes. You won't be able to change a damper
setting and then immediately see if you went into a stall. The
pyrometer is great for this. But nothin beats the probe when it
comes to atmospheric readings. I used the probe by itself for
years with a kiln that I had fired for a long time and was
comfortable with. But when I built a new kiln, I splurged(sp)
and got a pyrometer too. Helped immensely when figuring out how
to fire the new kiln. I got the 2 thermocouple kind...Hope this helps.
Jennifer hoping for good skating on the ponds this weekend
ginny bivaletz wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> my question is whether the use of a seperate
> pyrometer is needed when using the axner oxyprobe. i
> understand the temperature reading is a bit more
> complicated because of the conversion needed to
> farenheit, but after reading the archives i seemed to
> get mixed messages.
> i wonder if any folks out there using the oxyprobe
> would respond to this as to whether they rely on the
> oxyprobe and cones, ofcourse, for the temp. reading or
> have a pyrometer also, and why?
> thanks - ginny fromn orcas island where it is NOT
> raining today and i am transfering all my glaze
> chemicals into 5 gal. buckets.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
> Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com
--
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer Boyer jfboyer@sover.net
Thistle Hill Pottery
Vermont USA
http://www.vermontcrafts.com/members/ThistleHill.html
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Robert Santerre on wed 22 dec 99
Ginny, I have an AIC oxyprobe which reads out temp. in arbitrary units
which you can convert to degrees For C with a chart the mfg. provides. The
chart temps do not correspond well to temp. as implied by the cone pack (but
cones measure heat work not temp., so this is not really a proper
comparison). Nonetheless, I have learned, by watching the cones and
recording the probe unit readings (I've just made some notations on the
chart provided), what the units correspond to in terms of cones in my kiln.
I've never had a separate pyrometer. I suppose initially a pyrometer might
have helped me figure out (calibrate) the probe units, but at this point it
would be totally superfluous.
Bob
rfsanterre@iquest.net
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
ginny bivaletz wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> my question is whether the use of a seperate
> pyrometer is needed when using the axner oxyprobe. i
> understand the temperature reading is a bit more
> complicated because of the conversion needed to
> farenheit, but after reading the archives i seemed to
> get mixed messages.
> i wonder if any folks out there using the oxyprobe
> would respond to this as to whether they rely on the
> oxyprobe and cones, ofcourse, for the temp. reading or
> have a pyrometer also, and why?
> thanks - ginny fromn orcas island where it is NOT
> raining today and i am transfering all my glaze
> chemicals into 5 gal. buckets.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
> Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com
Hank Murrow on wed 22 dec 99
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> my question is whether the use of a seperate
>pyrometer is needed when using the axner oxyprobe. i
>understand the temperature reading is a bit more
>complicated because of the conversion needed to
>farenheit, but after reading the archives i seemed to
>get mixed messages.
>i wonder if any folks out there using the oxyprobe
>would respond to this as to whether they rely on the
>oxyprobe and cones, ofcourse, for the temp. reading or
>have a pyrometer also, and why?
>thanks - ginny fromn orcas island where it is NOT
>raining today and i am transfering all my glaze
>chemicals into 5 gal. buckets.
Dear Ginny; I use the OxyProbe on my Doorless Fiber Kiln, and no you don't
have to use a separate pyrometer. There is a Platinum/Rhodium thermocouple
built into the OxyProbe, which shares a common ground wire(also Platinum)
with the Oxygen sensing element. What you do have to do is gradually get
familiar enough with the millivolt readings from the meter and how they
correlate with temperature, whether F or C. Doesn't take long, and soon you
will answer the question,"When do you do body reduction?" by saying,
"Around 85 on my OxyProbe". You can run wires to the house, and bring the
meter in with you so you can check the kiln while you fix dinner. Of
course, I rely on Cones 9, 10,& 11 to get the end of the firing exactly
right, as the cones measure 'heat work' rather than just temperature as a
thermocouple does. Then, the thermocouple in the Probe really comes into
its own, as I can control the cooling exactly. In recent years I have come
to believe that the cooling cycle is as important as the heating cycle, and
my glaze results are greatly enhanced by this view. Hoping to help, Hank in
Eugene
Fredrick Paget on wed 22 dec 99
Ginny, The reading from the oxyprobe is a millivolt reading and it is only
to two decimal places so that you have to use a chart to convert it to
temperature and it is at a low resolution. Besides that you have to rotate
a switch to make the temperature reading and it is inconvenient to do that
very much of the time.
I use a seperate digital pyrometer that reads temperature to 4 decimal
places and that way I can see immediatly the result of any change in the
settings of damper or burners. I use cones to get the end points of the
firing.
Fred Paget
> my question is whether the use of a seperate
>pyrometer is needed when using the axner oxyprobe. i
>understand the temperature reading is a bit more
>complicated because of the conversion needed to
>farenheit, but after reading the archives i seemed to
>get mixed messages.
>i wonder if any folks out there using the oxyprobe
>would respond to this as to whether they rely on the
>oxyprobe and cones, ofcourse, for the temp. reading or
>have a pyrometer also, and why?
>thanks - ginny fromn orcas island where it is NOT
>raining today and i am transfering all my glaze
>chemicals into 5 gal. buckets.
ginny bivaletz
>From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
John K Dellow on thu 23 dec 99
I recently visited a friend who was having his 50th salt
firing in his 30 cu.ft boury box wood kiln.
He does not use cones or a pyrometer ,but 2 cheap thermocouples
attached to 2 cheap multymeters ( the type you can pick up at
radio shake in the USA for $10-15) or (in Australia Dick Smiths
or Tandy ) .
The multymeters are set to 200 millivolts and give a 2 decimal
point reading.
The readout was very sensitive to any movement in the damper or
secondary air . One was set at the top front ,where the kiln
likes a reducing atmosphere for a rise in temp. The other at the
bottom middle where an oxidizing atmosphere give a steady rise in
temp. These facts determined by testing with a pyrometer in
earlier firings.
He has also had over 100 firings in a 50 cu,ft boury , firing
C10 stoneware.
So by checking for flame at the damper ( which is at a point
approx. 2/3 the height of the ware chamber ) and adjusting the
secondary air , checking each multymeter his firing was a breeze
.
John Dellow "the flower pot man"
Home Page http://www.welcome.to/jkdellow
http://digitalfire.com/education/people/dellow/
Fredrick Paget on thu 28 sep 00
That white stuff is one of several high temperature cements made by an
industrial supplier called Sauereisen. I haven't any idea where you can get
some. We used to have gallon cans of it in the factory (Sylvania Lighting
Products). All you need is a half teaspoon full.
>Hi,
>
>I replaced a platium wire for oxyprobe, and a filling between a porcelain
>sleeve and a stainless steel sleeve came off (white staff, like a kiln
>wash). Now, everything is loose, and I cannot get reading. (I am firing
>right now.)
>
>Does someone teach me how to fix it, please?
>
>
>Hodaka Hasebe
>--------------------------------------
>hasebeh@rochester.rr.com (Hodaka Hasebe)
>Pittsford, NY
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
hasebe on thu 28 sep 00
Hi,
I replaced a platium wire for oxyprobe, and a filling between a porcelain
sleeve and a stainless steel sleeve came off (white staff, like a kiln
wash). Now, everything is loose, and I cannot get reading. (I am firing
right now.)
Does someone teach me how to fix it, please?
Hodaka Hasebe
--------------------------------------
hasebeh@rochester.rr.com (Hodaka Hasebe)
Pittsford, NY
Hank Murrow on tue 10 apr 07
On Apr 10, 2007, at 7:47 AM, Dawn Raburn wrote:
> OK, I have read all the testimonials of the need for an oxyprobe. I
> haven't gotten up the nerve to fire my new gas kiln yet. I have
> watched and helped a friend with firing without a probe, but feel it
> would be wise for me to invest in one since I am not experienced in
> reduction firing. My kiln walls are 9" thick so do I need a 10" or
> 12" or longer oxyprobe? I can't believe how expensive they are!
Dear Dawn;
No, you do not need an OxyProbe to fire your kiln for the first time.
In fact, I would suggest that there is much to learn in firing
without that aid, despite the fact that I supply them as standard on
my Doorless Fiberkiln (http://www.ceramicsmonthly.org/mustreads/
shinofire.asp scroll down to the kiln article.).
What I suggest is that you follow the lighting and firing protocol as
suggested by the maker, observing and making notes. After the firing,
look at the wares 'in situ' and try to correlate your notes with what
you see.
After a firing or three, you will be much more confident, and may
treat yourself to the OxyProbe. When you DO get one, I recommend that
you fire your by-now-regular fire just making notes on what the
OxyProbe reads. Later, you can use these figures for a subsequent
firing 'by the Probe'.
Good Luck, Hank
Hank Murrow
www.murrow.biz/hank
Dawn Raburn on tue 10 apr 07
OK, I have read all the testimonials of the need for an oxyprobe. I
haven't gotten up the nerve to fire my new gas kiln yet. I have
watched and helped a friend with firing without a probe, but feel it
would be wise for me to invest in one since I am not experienced in
reduction firing. My kiln walls are 9" thick so do I need a 10" or
12" or longer oxyprobe? I can't believe how expensive they are!
Dawn
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