kurt l wild on thu 15 oct 98
Tom Wirt mentioned my photo booth in a Clayart post and received a
question from someone so I decided to post that information here for
others who might be interested. My booth was easy to build, not too
expensive and semi-permanent. It does take floor space thought and that
is it's one drawback as I see it.
I bought a sheet (4 ft. x 8ft.) of plastic laminate (off white, used
for countertops but not mounted on plywood, $32 at Menards). It curves
nicely, gives a sizeable width and depth to the booth.
I built a simple 2 x 4 combination table and framework. Actually it's
a table with uprights on all four corners that extend up to a height of
7 ft. My studio ceiling is 7 ft. from the floor. The bed of the table
is 3/8" pressed wood, 33" from the floor, 4 feet wide and 5 feet deep.
The laminate was laid on the table with the one edge flush with the
front of the table and then it goes back curving upward to a height of
4" 3" on the back (inner side) where it is fastened to a cross member
from the two back uprights. The sides then are canvas tacked at the top
and they simply hang down and tacked at the sides. The canvas is 5 foot
wide canvas, natural color. I use three #2 blue photo floods as I shoot
snapshots these days not slides. Two of the photo floods clamp to the
two front uprights and the third one hangs from the ceiling within the
booth. I plan to add another photo flood which I might also hang from
the ceiling or clamp to one of the posts. The photo flood set-up
doesn't need to change much as most of my pieces are relatively the same
size; however, if I do change it I shoot all work about the same size
and then change and shoot work of another size.
The space under the table is a great storage area and, in my case, the
booth was built where I stored odds and ends anyway.
Hope this is clear enought, if not contact me with your questions.
--
Kurt Wild
1000 E. Cascade
River falls, WI 54022 Phone: (715) 425-5715
web site: http://www.uwrf.edu/art/faculty/Wild
Ray Carlton on sun 18 oct 98
mmmmmm....my "photo booth" is a little simpler than kurts and takes no
floor space...i bought a large sheet A0 art board [48"x36"approx] in 50%
grey and i simply tape it to any table so it curves up to the wall behind.
Set up my two 500 watt halogens and the camera and away I go..10 mins to
setup and 5 mins to pull down.
At 09:37 15/10/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Tom Wirt mentioned my photo booth in a Clayart post and received a
>question from someone so I decided to post that information here for
>others who might be interested. My booth was easy to build, not too
>expensive and semi-permanent. It does take floor space thought and that
>is it's one drawback as I see it.
>
>I bought a sheet (4 ft. x 8ft.) of plastic laminate (off white, used
>for countertops but not mounted on plywood, $32 at Menards). It curves
>nicely, gives a sizeable width and depth to the booth.
>
>I built a simple 2 x 4 combination table and framework. Actually it's
>a table with uprights on all four corners that extend up to a height of
>7 ft. My studio ceiling is 7 ft. from the floor. The bed of the table
>is 3/8" pressed wood, 33" from the floor, 4 feet wide and 5 feet deep.
>The laminate was laid on the table with the one edge flush with the
>front of the table and then it goes back curving upward to a height of
>4" 3" on the back (inner side) where it is fastened to a cross member
>from the two back uprights. The sides then are canvas tacked at the top
>and they simply hang down and tacked at the sides. The canvas is 5 foot
>wide canvas, natural color. I use three #2 blue photo floods as I shoot
>snapshots these days not slides. Two of the photo floods clamp to the
>two front uprights and the third one hangs from the ceiling within the
>booth. I plan to add another photo flood which I might also hang from
>the ceiling or clamp to one of the posts. The photo flood set-up
>doesn't need to change much as most of my pieces are relatively the same
>size; however, if I do change it I shoot all work about the same size
>and then change and shoot work of another size.
>
>The space under the table is a great storage area and, in my case, the
>booth was built where I stored odds and ends anyway.
>
>Hope this is clear enought, if not contact me with your questions.
>--
>Kurt Wild
>1000 E. Cascade
>River falls, WI 54022 Phone: (715) 425-5715
>
>web site: http://www.uwrf.edu/art/faculty/Wild
>
cheers Ray Carlton
McMahons Creek Victoria Australia
Jennifer Boyer on mon 19 oct 98
Hi All
My photo booth is somewhere between the two described below. It uses Ray's
system of draping the back drop from the wall to the table, but I'va also
built a square frame out of 1 inch PVC plumbing pipe to which I tape mylar
sheets to diffuse my tungsten lights. Very lo tech, but effective.
Jennifer
Ray Carlton wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> mmmmmm....my "photo booth" is a little simpler than kurts and takes no
> floor space...i bought a large sheet A0 art board [48"x36"approx] in 50%
> grey and i simply tape it to any table so it curves up to the wall behind.
> Set up my two 500 watt halogens and the camera and away I go..10 mins to
> setup and 5 mins to pull down.
> At 09:37 15/10/98 EDT, you wrote:
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Tom Wirt mentioned my photo booth in a Clayart post and received a
> >question from someone so I decided to post that information here for
> >others who might be interested. My booth was easy to build, not too
> >expensive and semi-permanent. It does take floor space thought and that
> >is it's one drawback as I see it.
> >
> >I bought a sheet (4 ft. x 8ft.) of plastic laminate (off white, used
> >for countertops but not mounted on plywood, $32 at Menards). It curves
> >nicely, gives a sizeable width and depth to the booth.
> >
> >I built a simple 2 x 4 combination table and framework. Actually it's
> >a table with uprights on all four corners that extend up to a height of
> >7 ft. My studio ceiling is 7 ft. from the floor. The bed of the table
> >is 3/8" pressed wood, 33" from the floor, 4 feet wide and 5 feet deep.
> >The laminate was laid on the table with the one edge flush with the
> >front of the table and then it goes back curving upward to a height of
> >4" 3" on the back (inner side) where it is fastened to a cross member
> >from the two back uprights. The sides then are canvas tacked at the top
> >and they simply hang down and tacked at the sides. The canvas is 5 foot
> >wide canvas, natural color. I use three #2 blue photo floods as I shoot
> >snapshots these days not slides. Two of the photo floods clamp to the
> >two front uprights and the third one hangs from the ceiling within the
> >booth. I plan to add another photo flood which I might also hang from
> >the ceiling or clamp to one of the posts. The photo flood set-up
> >doesn't need to change much as most of my pieces are relatively the same
> >size; however, if I do change it I shoot all work about the same size
> >and then change and shoot work of another size.
> >
> >The space under the table is a great storage area and, in my case, the
> >booth was built where I stored odds and ends anyway.
> >
> >Hope this is clear enought, if not contact me with your questions.
> >--
> >Kurt Wild
> >1000 E. Cascade
> >River falls, WI 54022 Phone: (715) 425-5715
> >
> >web site: http://www.uwrf.edu/art/faculty/Wild
> >
> cheers Ray Carlton
>
> McMahons Creek Victoria Australia
>
>
--
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer Boyer jboyer@plainfield.bypass.com
Thistle Hill Pottery
Vermont USA
http://www.vermontcrafts.com/members/JenniBoy892.html
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
eden@sover.net on tue 17 nov 98
My photo set up is in the spirit of Ray's but since I use daylight alot and
want to move the backdrop out on sawhorses I have a plywood thingie which
is a portable table-with-back you can set anywhere and clip the background
sheet to....my background is one of those foxy white-to-grey-to-black
sheets from the photo store cost about $25 a long time ago...anyway a piece
about 3 feet long for the back wall and a piece about 18 inches wide for
the table top are anchored together with a two by four. Kind of clunky but
works fine.
Eleanora
..............
Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
Paradise Hill
Bellows Falls, VT 05101 eden@sover.net
"Can love, through the exercise of art, overcome death?" ---SalmanRushdie
Paul on mon 27 jan 03
Hello,
Does anyone have any simple plans for a photo booth? I have tried to use a
bedsheet as a background but there always seems to be a few wrinkles showing
up even afte i iron it. I have access to a digital camera when needed and i
do have a special lightbulb for taking shots. Mainly i just need some kind
of inexpensive background for placing pots in front of that will not make
the shot look any more un-proffesional than it really is. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Paul B
dneese on mon 27 jan 03
A lightweight 4 x 8 sheet of light gray or tan Formica. Home Depot or
Lowe's. Attach 1 x 2's on each side at one end with hooks. Hang from ceiling
or wall with gentle curve. Cleans well if dirty. No wrinkles.
Dale Tex
"Across the alley from the Alamo"
San Antonio, Texas
Naomi Rieder on mon 27 jan 03
Try a 4' x 8' sheet of Formica--smooth, solid, matte, probably a dark grey.
It just has to lean against a wall, then extend, with a gentle curve, onto a
table. Set-up the pottery as close to the end away from the wall as
possible. Some cabinet shops might even rent you a sheet, so you wouldn't
have a storage problem.
Naomi Rieder
in the snow-drenched Catskills
Cher Gauvin on mon 27 jan 03
In a message dated 1/27/2003 4:53:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
paul@DOCRET.COM writes:
> Does anyone have any simple plans for a photo booth? I have tried to use a
> bedsheet as a background but there always seems to be a few wrinkles
> showing
> up even afte i iron it.
Hey Paul,
I've been messing with trying to get better photos for my web
page...had the same problem. What I finally came up with is a cheap window
shade that I hang on the wall and allow to drape over the table. It doesn't
have wrinkles and it rolls up for storage. Just one idea...clayarters will
probably have many more ideas for you.
Cher
Elca Branman on mon 27 jan 03
I bought some mat fake leather, mat white, in a fabric store..probably
used for upholstery...it rolls up and unrolls without wrinkling, and can
be wiped with a damp sponge. I stapled one end to a broomstick and when
taking photos, balance the broomstick on the back of a couch, unroll the
plastic down to the floor and end up with a seamless background
>
Elca Branman,in Sarasota Florida
elcab1@juno.com
http://www.elcabranman.com
On Mon, 27 Jan 2003 13:22:30 -0500 Paul writes:
> Hello,
> Does anyone have any simple plans for a photo booth? I have tried to
> use a
> bedsheet as a background but there always seems to be a few wrinkles
> showing
________________________________________________________________
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Vicki Hardin on mon 27 jan 03
If you have the January issue of Ceramics Monthly, I took the photos on page
40 and 41 for the museum in San Angelo. My intent in photographing these
pieces was to have the background go black. To do this, I used 18 feet of
gray background paper and lit the piece overhead and to the front filling in
with reflected light. The background needs to gradually slope upwards with
your light decreasing causing the background naturally drop out. I was using
a medium format camera which necessitated using 18 feet. If using a 35 you
could do with less, but I'm not sure of the exact length. Having the
background come up too close in the back of the piece is the biggest mistake
that can be made when trying for this effect. You can get the photo paper
from your photo supply or order from BH Camera out of New York at
212-444-6641. The paper wrinkles easily and you just have to consider it the
cost of photographing your work. I have a shaded background that cost about
120.00 and it too is easily scratched and has not held up well. I don't like
it as well as the previous method because it can seem kind of unnatural.
good luck!
Vicki Hardin
http://vickihardin.com
http://clayartwebguide.com
claybair on mon 27 jan 03
Paul,
A sheet of Formica white, black or gray with
no texture or design. Home Depot sells large sheets
for about $40 and 3ft x 5ft sheets for $10-15. You want just
the Formica with no backing. You can roll it up.
I like it because it doesn't scratch like the expensive photo paper.
Most recently I have used large pads of white paper.
I prop, hang or clip it so it falls in a curve.
When the paper gets smudged I just turn the page.
Their original purpose was for corporate presentations on easels.
They can be obtained at office supply stores.
I think you will find in order to avoid shadows you
need more than one bulb or you can take your
shots outside on a cloudy day.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 10:23 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: PHOTO BOOTH
Hello,
Does anyone have any simple plans for a photo booth? I have tried to use a
bedsheet as a background but there always seems to be a few wrinkles showing
up even afte i iron it. I have access to a digital camera when needed and i
do have a special lightbulb for taking shots. Mainly i just need some kind
of inexpensive background for placing pots in front of that will not make
the shot look any more un-proffesional than it really is. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Paul B
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
John Rodgers on mon 27 jan 03
For less than the price of a 4X8 sheet of plastic laminate (Formica,
WilsonArt, etc) you can. as I did, get a roll of neutral gray heavy
stock photo-background paper from most any large photography supply
store. It is available in 4 ft and 8ft wide rolls.
I hung my roll of gray from the wall, and let it sweep down in a curve
out on to a table top. This will let you make photo's without any
apparent floor or wall in the background. Also, the neutral gray is
easier to set the light metering against for the best shots. I used 3
adjustable photo lamps with reflectors, and blue bulbs to correct for
yellow, as I used Fuji Film for all my shots. Depending on the shot, I
would sometimes shine the lights directly on the subject, sometimes I
reflected the lights off a sheet hung at the side, and sometimes I would
backlight a piece by putting a light on the floor between the piece I
was shooting and the gray field which I would hang straight down. In the
case of the latter, I would set the piece off by draping a cloth over a
pedestal and then placing the piece on top of the pedestal with the
backlight behind it. For the right subject, this really makes a
spectacular shot.
Good Luck,
John Rodgers
Birmingham, AL
dneese wrote:
>A lightweight 4 x 8 sheet of light gray or tan Formica. Home Depot or
>Lowe's. Attach 1 x 2's on each side at one end with hooks. Hang from ceiling
>or wall with gentle curve. Cleans well if dirty. No wrinkles.
>Dale Tex
>"Across the alley from the Alamo"
>San Antonio, Texas
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
Marcia Selsor on mon 27 jan 03
You can buy back drop paper. Someone posted "varitone" info. Do a search
for it. It comes gradated. There was a great article in Clay times
about 5 years ago with direction on how to build a light box. There is a
lot of information out there. I use photo floods for my pieces. If I am
shooting Kodachrome ASA 25 or 64 I use blue photo floods because thus is
daylight film. If using Tungsten film use the white lights.
Digitals can be corrected. One of the articles from old, mentioned spray
painting a gradated background. I really liked the looks of the varitone
vinyl.
Marcia
Paul wrote:
> Hello,
> Does anyone have any simple plans for a photo booth? I have tried to use a
> bedsheet as a background but there always seems to be a few wrinkles showing
> up even afte i iron it. I have access to a digital camera when needed and i
> do have a special lightbulb for taking shots. Mainly i just need some kind
> of inexpensive background for placing pots in front of that will not make
> the shot look any more un-proffesional than it really is. Any ideas?
> Thanks,
> Paul B
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
Tuscany in 2003
http://home.attbi.com/~m.selsor/Tuscany2003.html
Hank Murrow on mon 27 jan 03
On Monday, January 27, 2003, at 10:22 AM, Paul wrote:
> Hello,
> Does anyone have any simple plans for a photo booth? I have tried to
> use a
> bedsheet as a background but there always seems to be a few wrinkles
> showing
> up even afte i iron it. I have access to a digital camera when needed
> and i
> do have a special lightbulb for taking shots. Mainly i just need some
> kind
> of inexpensive background for placing pots in front of that will not
> make
> the shot look any more un-proffesional than it really is. Any ideas?
> Thanks,
> Paul B
>
Yes, Paul, I do. Buy a neutral grey sheet of Formica that is around 16%
grey in value. You can check this by bringing a Kodak neutral grey card
with you to your building supply. If your ware is big or you want
multiple pieces in the shots, get a 4x8. If you are shooting smaller
ware or single piece shots, 3x8 will do. This is what I used for the
shots @ http://www.murrow.biz/hank . I reinforced the ends with
moulding glued on(less chipping), and I hang one end from the rafters
in my studio ceiling, the other end rests on my studio table. The
color-corrected Halogen fixture hangs over the table with its diffuser.
Works a charm, and stores in the rafters.
Hank in Eugene
John Hesselberth on mon 27 jan 03
Hi Paul,
Go to my website and download the articles I wrote for Clay Times a
couple years ago. Tells you how to do it on the cheap.
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
There is also a followup article in the Sept/Oct 2001 issue of Clay
Times that addresses digital camerals and flood lights. It is not on my
web site.
Regards,
John
On Monday, January 27, 2003, at 01:22 PM, Paul wrote:
> Hello,
> Does anyone have any simple plans for a photo booth? I have tried to
> use a
> bedsheet as a background but there always seems to be a few wrinkles
> showing
> up even afte i iron it. I have access to a digital camera when needed
> and i
> do have a special lightbulb for taking shots. Mainly i just need some
> kind
> of inexpensive background for placing pots in front of that will not
> make
> the shot look any more un-proffesional than it really is. Any ideas?
> Thanks,
> Paul B
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Vince Pitelka on mon 27 jan 03
> Does anyone have any simple plans for a photo booth? I have tried to use a
> bedsheet as a background but there always seems to be a few wrinkles
> showing up even afte i iron it.
Paul -
A bedsheet is a real no-no as a backdrop. Professional photo backdrop
paper, available from photo supply shops, is marginally acceptable, but I
think it still looks pretty crappy, because it just looks like photo
backdrop paper, it gets damaged and soiled so quickly, and if you replace it
frequently it becomes rather expensive.
In my opinion the two best solutions are:
1) A sheet of 1/8" masonite, which you simply repaint with a paint roller
whatever color you want whenever necessary. Flat latex wall paint works
great.
2) A sheet of Formica, which is very tough and with proper care lasts almost
indefinitely. If it develops any scratches you can fix it with any
appropriate polish for plastic surfaces. You can get it in any color you
want. Satin finish neutral gray is especially nice for photographing most
ceramic wares. Formica comes in 4' by 8' or 4' by 12' sheets, and it is
quite flexible, and therefore can be rolled into a size that will fit into
the back seat of most cars.
In either case, you simply clamp one end of the sheet of masonite or Formica
to the front of a table, and allow the sheet to curve back up against the
wall, giving a smooth curve with no wrinkles. With a 4 by 8 sheet, as long
as you are not photographing very large wares, you can light the foreground
and have the background fade into darkness as it curves upwards.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
phil davenport on mon 27 jan 03
Paul:
What you want is seamless background paper. It comes in several different widths
and colors. You can find this product at most professional camera stores-also try,
on line, Porter's Camera (I think).
Hope this helps.
Phil Davenport
Garland, TX
Paul wrote:
> Hello,
> Does anyone have any simple plans for a photo booth? I have tried to use a
> bedsheet as a background but there always seems to be a few wrinkles showing
Tony Olsen on tue 28 jan 03
Paul:
How about using a crepe fabric and take advantage of the wrinkles as =
texture on the background? This would be a homogenous color and would =
not draw your eye away from the object to a single wrinkle or fold.=20
Good luck..
Tony (Galveston)
Lily Krakowski on tue 28 jan 03
I know even less about photography than about astsrophysics.
However, Charleston photographer David Edwards told me years ago to get two
pieces of plaster board one as backdrop one as "floor". I have photographed
my pots on it since, and it is easy, cheap and works excellently.
Lili Krakowski
P.O. Box #1
Constableville, N.Y.
(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
Be of good courage....
mudslingers@ATT.NET on tue 28 jan 03
In a message from paul@DOCRET.COM:
> ...I have tried to use a
> bedsheet as a background but there always seems to be a few wrinkles
> showing up even afte i iron it.
In a message from Cher Gauvin :
>... What I finally came up with is a cheap window
>shade that I hang on the wall and allow to drape over the table. It doesn't
>have wrinkles and it rolls up for storage. ...
>Cher
i also use a cheap window shade -- spray paint it primer gray! when it gets
scratches and marks, just spray those areas again. when it gets too thick and
starts pealing and re-spraying shows surface descrepancies, then it's time for
a new $8 shade!
i have everything crammed in my basement studio, so the "photography area"
doubles as my glazing/work table. the mounted shade rolls up and doesn't get
splattered like everything else does. unfortunately, due to space constraints,
the shade isn't located far enough back for a really good "fade" effect. but i
work with what i've got and am still trying to make the most of my modest
arrangement (which i couldn't be more grateful for!).
an effective method i just learned (certainly not new, just new to me) is to
use white board to reflect (bounce) the light from the overhead lightbox to
the foot/underside area of the pot. (thanks to john hesselberth's for his
claytimes articles on lightbox plans!) the bouncing works well for pots with
narrower bases. i tried the photo floods on the sides as well, but just found
there was too much light to try to diffuse!
this is all well and good for digital images that you can crop the corners of
the white board out of the picture. a whole new ballgame is to try to get this
arrangement to work for slides! haven't gone there yet!
--
Lauren Bellero
Mudslingers Pottery
Red Bank, NJ 07701
http://mudslingers.home.att.net
732.747.4853
claybair on tue 28 jan 03
Hi Lili,
Can you see the line where the 2 boards intersect?
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Lily Krakowski
I know even less about photography than about astsrophysics.
However, Charleston photographer David Edwards told me years ago to get two
pieces of plaster board one as backdrop one as "floor". I have photographed
my pots on it since, and it is easy, cheap and works excellently.
Vicki Hardin on tue 28 jan 03
<=20
of the white board out of the picture. a whole new ballgame is to try to ge=
t=20
this arrangement to work for slides! haven't gone there yet!>>
Slides can be imaged from digital files now.=A0 I have not done this, but it=
s=20
on my list.=A0 I will let you'll know how this turns out.=A0 There would be=20=
a=20
great advantage to putting an image into photoshop and then getting it on a=20
slide.
Vicki Hardin
http://ClayArtWebGuide.com
http://vickihardin.com
http://iloveclay.com
=20
Lily Krakowski on tue 28 jan 03
Yikes. My pix are taken for publication (i.e. as part of article) and also
for my own slide show. I put the one plaster board up against the porch
wall and the other on the floor. The pix are taken by daylight. I have
never had good luck with pix taken by artificial light. I do not think the
joint shows, as the cuts are neat and the boards tightly put together. I
think you might want to give it a try. You do not by the way need huge
hummungus piece of the board--your lumber yard may let you have two broken
pieces just to try....
claybair writes:
> Hi Lili,
>
> Can you see the line where the 2 boards intersect?
>
> Gayle Bair
> Bainbridge Island, WA
> http://claybair.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lily Krakowski
>
> I know even less about photography than about astsrophysics.
>
> However, Charleston photographer David Edwards told me years ago to get two
> pieces of plaster board one as backdrop one as "floor". I have photographed
> my pots on it since, and it is easy, cheap and works excellently.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Lili Krakowski
P.O. Box #1
Constableville, N.Y.
(315) 942-5916/ 397-2389
Be of good courage....
Barbara Mueller on tue 28 jan 03
The services around here charge $8.00 for output of a slide from a digital
image and then $2.00 for dups after that.
B
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vicki Hardin"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2003 11:12 AM
Subject: PHOTO BOOTH
<of the white board out of the picture. a whole new ballgame is to try to
get
this arrangement to work for slides! haven't gone there yet!>>
Slides can be imaged from digital files now. I have not done this, but its
on my list. I will let you'll know how this turns out. There would be a
great advantage to putting an image into photoshop and then getting it on a
slide.
Vicki Hardin
http://ClayArtWebGuide.com
http://vickihardin.com
http://iloveclay.com
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Vince Pitelka on tue 28 jan 03
> How about using a crepe fabric and take advantage of the wrinkles as
texture
> on the background? This would be a homogenous color and would not draw
> your eye away from the object to a single wrinkle or fold.
For most of what we shoot slides for, this is not a good idea. An active
texture or pattern in the background will ALWAYS detract from the ware.
People like Wendy Rosen and Bruce Baker who lecture about professional slide
presentation generally say that there are two fundamental reasons for
shooting photos of your work - one is to get into exhibitions, and the other
is to sell your wares wholesale or retail. In the former case there should
never be anything that distracts from the wares. The color should be
neutral - white, gray, or black, and should be absolutely free of texture or
pattern. Even professional photo backdrop paper often looks tacky and
cheap. For such applications, fabric almost always looks funky, except
perhaps as a background upon which to photograph jewelry.
In the latter case, whatever works is okay. If you are shooting images for
a color sheet, brochure, catalog, or magazine advertisement, then you want
lively, interesting, images which will get the viewer's attention. In such
cases the same rules do not apply, and whatever background or setup that
works is fair game. Of course it is still never a good idea to create a
background which diminishes the visual impact of the work.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Work - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 ext. 111, fax 615/597-6803
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
Steve Mills on wed 29 jan 03
I use a sheet of neutral coloured heavy weight paper, hung from the wall
over a desk, a kitchen foil reflector, and natural light. If the light
is too bright I pull the curtain!
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Paul writes
>Hello,
>Does anyone have any simple plans for a photo booth? I have tried to use =
>a
>bedsheet as a background but there always seems to be a few wrinkles show=
>ing
>up even afte i iron it. I have access to a digital camera when needed and=
> i
>do have a special lightbulb for taking shots. Mainly i just need some kin=
>d
>of inexpensive background for placing pots in front of that will not make
>the shot look any more un-proffesional than it really is. Any ideas?
>Thanks,
>Paul B
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Craig Dunn Clark on wed 29 jan 03
I've used the same system for a number of years with pretty good
results. I shoot outside, in the mid-morning or late afternoon hours,
preferably on a cloudy day (nice light diffusion that way.) Use a decent
tripod for the camera. Put seemless (the grey kind as close to middle grey
as you can find) hung behind and over the surface on which the pot to be
photographed will be placed. Use as slow a film as you are able. Use a grey
card to determine accurate light. Bracket, bracket, bracket...
One tip I picked up from a photog pal is to completely fill the frame
with the grey card to get your light reading and stick with that. Bracket
atleast one stop up and down from that point. The bracketing will save you
some sawbucks in the long run. The cost of the film is the cheap end of the
deal. Additonally, I you are shooting pieces that are more vertically
oriented, such as vases, try and get the center of your lens parrallel the
center of the pot. This will help to alieviate distortion of the image.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Mills"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: PHOTO BOOTH
> I use a sheet of neutral coloured heavy weight paper, hung from the wall
> over a desk, a kitchen foil reflector, and natural light. If the light
> is too bright I pull the curtain!
>
> Steve
> Bath
> UK
>
>
> In message , Paul writes
> >Hello,
> >Does anyone have any simple plans for a photo booth? I have tried to use
=
> >a
> >bedsheet as a background but there always seems to be a few wrinkles
show=
> >ing
> >up even afte i iron it. I have access to a digital camera when needed
and=
> > i
> >do have a special lightbulb for taking shots. Mainly i just need some
kin=
> >d
> >of inexpensive background for placing pots in front of that will not make
> >the shot look any more un-proffesional than it really is. Any ideas?
> >Thanks,
> >Paul B
>
> --
> Steve Mills
> Bath
> UK
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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