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porcelain sticks to kiln shelves

updated fri 22 jan 99

 

Owen Dearing on fri 15 jan 99

What works to keep the feet of my porcelain pots from sticking to the kiln
shelves? I fire to cone 10, reuction, and have to grind the edges of all my
porcelain pieces as bits of the feet stay attached to the shelf. Thanks,
Owen

Dannon Rhudy on sat 16 jan 99

------------------
Owen, mix a little alumina in your wax, if you normally wax
the feet of your pots. You'll need to stir it frequently.
If you don't wax them, dust alumina
on the kiln shelf. Pots won't stick.

Dannon Rhudy
potter=40koyote.com

----------
=3E ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
=3E What works to keep the feet of my porcelain pots from sticking to the =
kiln
=3E shelves? I fire to cone 10, reuction, and have to grind the edges of all=
my
=3E porcelain pieces as bits of the feet stay attached to the shelf. Thanks,
=3E Owen
=3E

Richard Gralnik on sat 16 jan 99

Take a look at the December (?) CM. A friend of mine got a suggestion
printed where he puts a layer of kiln wash/alumina hydrate on the
shelf then runs a saw-edged trowel over the shelf coating to create a
series of ridges instead of an even coating. If you set your pot on the
ridges it's evenly supported, can move during shrinkage and won't
stick to the shelf. $10 to Bob Pearson!

Richard
Transmogrifying from a kiln builder to a potter, ready to restart a
subscription to a ceramics magazine and trying to decide which one


At 01:08 PM 1/15/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>What works to keep the feet of my porcelain pots from sticking to the kiln
>shelves? I fire to cone 10, reuction, and have to grind the edges of all my
>porcelain pieces as bits of the feet stay attached to the shelf. Thanks,
>Owen
>

Betsy C. Tanzer on sat 16 jan 99

I sprinkle Alumina Hydrate on my kiln shelves when I fire a glaze load...I
fire to cone 10/oxidation...and this has been the best solution for me. It
has mostly eliminated the fusion that takes place at that temperature.
Occasionally, if I have missed a spot, a pot will "stick" and I will have to
break away the pot from the shelf. BE CAREFUL when you spread the Alum. Hy.
on the shelves.
After the firing, lift the shelves out carefully, and brush off the powder
into a wide plastic bowl...that way you can reuse the Alum. Hy. again and
again. Very economical. I do not use kiln wash on my shelves.
Betsy

Bill Williams on sat 16 jan 99

don't glaze you pots all the way to the bottom. I sometimes do glaze my
pots all the way down, and use old stilts that I have removed the metal
nails from. I have also made some of my own by rolling out and cutting
round pieces of clay. I fire them to cone 6 which is what I fire my
stoneware at. they don't shrink during the glaze firing that way. I just
set my glazed pieces on the little round pieces and unless the glaze runs,
my shelves are safe. Porcelain my be different, tho. I made porcelain
dolls at one time, so didn't ever glaze the pieces. Connie (billwms@fn.net)
-----Original Message-----
From: Owen Dearing
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Friday, January 15, 1999 12:09 PM
Subject: Porcelain sticks to kiln shelves


----------------------------Original message----------------------------
What works to keep the feet of my porcelain pots from sticking to the kiln
shelves? I fire to cone 10, reuction, and have to grind the edges of all my
porcelain pieces as bits of the feet stay attached to the shelf. Thanks,
Owen

Ruth Radin on sun 17 jan 99

OWEN, If you make a hamma, or cookie of porcelain for each piece that you fire
you will not have this problem. You can throw small ( or size to fit pots)
flat disks or just roll a slab and cut with a cookie cutter. The thrown disks
can be dry but the cookies should be wet when you load the kiln. Brush each
"Hamma" with alumina mixed with water and then load the kiln. CANDLE the kiln
for a long time - especially if you have wet hammas. Overnight would not be
too long. Then take the kiln up slowly to about 1000 before you really gun
it. Porcelain shrinks and vitrifies at a different rate that anything else
and that causes your problem. Let me know how it goes - or e-mail me at
ruthradin1@aol.com. if you have any other questions. Good luck.

Elca Branman on sun 17 jan 99

Put aluminum hydrate under any spot where the pot comes in contact with
the kiln shelf.
It is reusable and will just sit there cheerfully....or mix aluminum
hydrate into your wax resist in sufficient amounts to prevent the
sticking.
Elca ..at home in Sarasota,Florida

On Fri, 15 Jan 1999 13:08:24 EST Owen Dearing writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>What works to keep the feet of my porcelain pots from sticking to the
>kiln
>shelves?
>Thanks,
>Owen
>

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David Cuzick on sun 17 jan 99

alumina hydrate sprinkled on to the shelf where the pot sits works. You can
get one of the resturant large salt shakers to apply it to the shelf.
I had a lot of trouble with this when using very transulent high groleg
porcelain (I also had trouble with the porcelain slumping). I found a
porcelain from Aardvark ceramic supply in LA that is very white and slightly
transluent and has none ot the sticking and slumping problems. It is called
NARA porcelain, throws very nicely too.
Best luck. David Cuzick in San Diego, CA claycuzian@aol.com

Hank Ray on sun 17 jan 99

I have seen this problem first hand... the problem turned out to be the kiln
wash on the shelves.... switched to a good wash, the problem stopped...
i use equal parts of EPK, Flint, Alumna Hydrate.....
petey in OKC OK
Helllll@aol.com

> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> What works to keep the feet of my porcelain pots from sticking to the kiln
> shelves? I fire to cone 10, reuction, and have to grind the edges of all my
> porcelain pieces as bits of the feet stay attached to the shelf. Thanks,
> Owen
>

Brian Crocker on sun 17 jan 99

Zircon Flour on the shelf Owen, will work at cone 10 as long as it has no
impurities, rub the base of your Pot on a white tile to clean it off after.

Regards Brian C.,

At 01:08 PM2:10: 15/01/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>What works to keep the feet of my porcelain pots from sticking to the kiln
>shelves? I fire to cone 10, reuction, and have to grind the edges of all my
>porcelain pieces as bits of the feet stay attached to the shelf. Thanks,
>Owen
>
>
Brian Crocker
Tea Tree Gully, South Australia,

{e.mail} crocker@dove.com.au


"Never loose sight of the bigger picture,"

"Never loose sight of what you set out to achieve."

Stephen Mills on sun 17 jan 99

Try dusting the kiln shelf with a layer of fine molochite of calcined
china clay applied with a sieve (I know these are effectively the same
thing, but molochite is coarser). After the firing we tip it back into
the pot ready for re-use. We do this with all the shelves in our firing
service Kilns, and we fire all sorts of wares, with no sticking
problems.

Steve
BPS
Bath
UK

In message , Owen Dearing writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>What works to keep the feet of my porcelain pots from sticking to the kiln
>shelves? I fire to cone 10, reuction, and have to grind the edges of all my
>porcelain pieces as bits of the feet stay attached to the shelf. Thanks,
>Owen
>

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
own website: http://www.mudslinger.demon.co.uk
BPS website: http://www.bathpotters.demon.co.uk

Thomas Baugnet on mon 18 jan 99

Here is yet another treatment for sticking pots. I use a mixture of 90%
alumina hydrate/10%EPK. Mix this solution to a heavy cream consistency. Apply
to shelves sparingly. It can easily be removed with a damp sponge to invert
the shelves if warping occurs. Good Luck all.

Frank Bosco on tue 19 jan 99

Try Bosco's kiln wash (not to be confused with the edible Bosco): My formula
is 70% alumina hydrate, 20% calcined kaolin, and 10% EPK.
Mix with water to milk-like consistancy, and roll on using a very thin nap
paint roller. This formula doesn't become hard, brittle, and flakey like the
50/50 clay and flint variety. If while applying, the wash dries lumpy, this
is because there's very little plasticity to the formula so it dries on
contact. You can easily smooth out the lumps with a lightly dampened sponge,
or even your finger.

=?iso-8859-1?Q?Ren=E9?= Sprattling on wed 20 jan 99

>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have seen this problem first hand... the problem turned out to be the kiln
>wash on the shelves.... switched to a good wash, the problem stopped...
>i use equal parts of EPK, Flint, Alumna Hydrate.....
>petey in OKC OK
>Helllll@aol.com
>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> What works to keep the feet of my porcelain pots from sticking to the kiln
>> shelves? I fire to cone 10, reuction, and have to grind the edges of all my
>> porcelain pieces as bits of the feet stay attached to the shelf. Thanks,
>> Owen
>>

Hank, is that equal parts by weight or volume? I've always weighed mine. (
just epk and flint).

R. S

Muddy