Sarah Barnes on wed 7 oct 98
I was wondering if anyone had a ggod recipie for a red raku glaze? or a
red stain we can add to a cler base and stilll get a consistent red? Any
help would be appreciated
thanks
sarah
Maryland Institute
sbarnes@mica.edu
Bonita Cohn on thu 5 nov 98
Dear Sarah, years ago at a raku festival (hosted by David Kuroaka) I brushed
onto a pot a stroke or two of Christmas or Fire Engine Red from a jar of 06
glaze, non-food-safe. It got the color; it is still red after all these years,
unlike the copper penny luster that goes green. I'm sure you can use what's
currently available. It might be toxic, so be careful, use on decorative, not
food surfaces. Some low fire reds can be dangerous--the fumes, and in the raw
state, on your hands. Good luck. =-}
Dawn Christensen on mon 23 sep 02
Hi
I'm looking for a recipe for that matt red raku that looks like
velvet. Thanks, Dawn
Ababi on mon 30 sep 02
I made once red raku as well as green and yellow using commercial colorants ( like
Masson). The problem is that this product is a refectory you can either fire it higher or
try my new raku way: Use a ^04 glaze better with low alumina Fire it to ^04, on stilts
and refire in raku. Try to take it out at red heat before the glaze start bubble to the
reduction cans
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.milkywayceramics.com/cgallery/asharon.htm
Dannon Rhudy on tue 1 oct 02
Phil said:
> Raku ain't near as hot...Coppers as to be 'red' as in a
> reduction High Fire, I believe need to be High Fired........
No, it isn't as hot. But it is hot enough. I have fired raku
glazes for quite some time that develop copper red. It is
a little harder to make it consistent, but it will do it. When an
undergrad I remember sneaking in to fire a raku piece in one
of the big kilns (because it was just too big for our raku kiln).
Fired it by itself, and KNEW that the instructor would have a fit
if he caught me. I'd not been firing much of anything up to then,
and didn't realize how long it took one of the big old Alpine's to
heat up - seemed to take forever and I was in an agony of worry
that I'd get caught. In any case, I'd been reaching for a turquoise
with copper red blushes - I'd done it before, small size, a nice glaze.
I finally shut the kiln down. Sneaked in later in the night to remove the
piece and to my surprise it was a solid ruby red, not a turquoise
crackle to be seen. Never did that again with the big kilns,
but that same glaze could be counted on to have true copper red
blushes in greater or lesser
amounts, depending upon how I fired. Don't do much raku now,
but that glaze still works a treat.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Steve Slatin on thu 4 dec 03
The site has been down for a while, but the firm is still is business
(at least, as of my last visit about 5 weeks ago). They are generally =
quite
helpful, and their number is 1-800-952-8030 or 253-922-5342.
-- Steve S
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Karin Hurt
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 2:17 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Red raku
The Tacoma Clay Art Center has a wonderful red, it's called Essence Red,
however the site has been closed for maintenance for months and months, =
when
I wrote to someone there, they did not respond. It's a great glaze =
though.
Karin
http://www.clayartcenter.com
Lake Havasu City, Arizona
http://www.laughingbearpottery.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Kristin
To:
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 11:25 AM
Subject: Red raku
> Fellow Potter,
> I think you can get red copper in raku. I have a 4% copper slip that =
I
> use under a crackle glaze. The results can be quite "livery" with =
copper
> at any temperature. It will definitely turn red if the circumstances =
in
> the kiln are right.
>
> The key is to ensure you have a dirty flame reduction atmosphere in =
the
> kiln at the 1500-1700 degree range.
> I would really stall the reduction in the kiln at this time. button =
up
> the kiln for at least fifteen minutes or so and really let the copper
mature.
> Keep the kiln reducing until you are ready to shut it off. Many =
people
> believe that you don't have to reduce the ware in the kiln at all when =
you
> raku. I think you do if you don't want green or liver colored pots.
Tell
> me how you do!
>
> Kristin Yount
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Karin Hurt on thu 4 dec 03
The Tacoma Clay Art Center has a wonderful red, it's called Essence Red,
however the site has been closed for maintenance for months and months, when
I wrote to someone there, they did not respond. It's a great glaze though.
Karin
http://www.clayartcenter.com
Lake Havasu City, Arizona
http://www.laughingbearpottery.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Kristin
To:
Sent: Friday, December 05, 2003 11:25 AM
Subject: Red raku
> Fellow Potter,
> I think you can get red copper in raku. I have a 4% copper slip that I
> use under a crackle glaze. The results can be quite "livery" with copper
> at any temperature. It will definitely turn red if the circumstances in
> the kiln are right.
>
> The key is to ensure you have a dirty flame reduction atmosphere in the
> kiln at the 1500-1700 degree range.
> I would really stall the reduction in the kiln at this time. button up
> the kiln for at least fifteen minutes or so and really let the copper
mature.
> Keep the kiln reducing until you are ready to shut it off. Many people
> believe that you don't have to reduce the ware in the kiln at all when you
> raku. I think you do if you don't want green or liver colored pots.
Tell
> me how you do!
>
> Kristin Yount
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Shawn McGuire on thu 4 dec 03
Have you tried 'Glass Red'??
Gerstley-50
Borax-50
Iron oxide-10
Copper Carb.-5
or are you looking for a red purely from copper as the colorant?
=20
=A0
Shawn McGuire on thu 4 dec 03
Just had another suggestion after reading you original post,,,try adding
approx. 6.5 percent red mason stain to you base crackle glaze,,,,I have been doing
a lot of this lately with great success, all sorts of color possibilities,
just make sure the color you choose is not to dark, otherwise your won't see the
crackle for lack of contrast between the black of the crackle and the color
of the glaze. Good luck with it! Raku Rocks!!
Bruce Davis on fri 5 dec 03
I agree with Kristin Yount's message--the last ten to fifteen minutes of
firing should be in reduction.
I use a Randy Broadnax front-loading kiln which has two burner ports and
a flue vent in the top. When I get to aprox. 1600 degrees, I put a piece of
ceramic fiber insulation over the flue vent and close the primary air on both
burners. Secondary air still gets in around the burner ports. At the same
time, I put pieces of hickory bark and any twigs that I find laying around in
through the ports. This chokes the fire down to a yellow/orange flame. It also
causes flame to come out of every crack and crevice. By my theory, this
choking action causes the fire to try to find oxygen from any source available.
It (hopefully) finds that source in the glaze colorant oxides--copper, cobalt,
iron, etc.
Best regards,
Bruce Davis---Mud Run Pottery
Gary Elfring on fri 5 dec 03
SM> Just had another suggestion after reading you original post,,,try adding
SM> approx. 6.5 percent red mason stain to you base crackle glaze,,,,I have been doing
SM> a lot of this lately with great success, all sorts of color possibilities,
SM> just make sure the color you choose is not to dark, otherwise your won't see the
SM> crackle for lack of contrast between the black of the crackle and the color
SM> of the glaze. Good luck with it! Raku Rocks!!
I have a number of "red" mason stains and have used them in raku work
before. They tend to be pink, though, rather than that deep blood red
you can get with a high fire copper reduction.
I would like to thank everyone for their help. I now have 3 separate
new raku glazes ready to try. I also have some pots in bisque and will
be rakuing over Christmas break. I'll post pictures and the formulas
at my new pottery web site (not up quite yet.)
--
Best regards,
Gary
Kristin on fri 5 dec 03
Fellow Potter,
I think you can get red copper in raku. I have a 4% copper slip that I
use under a crackle glaze. The results can be quite "livery" with copper
at any temperature. It will definitely turn red if the circumstances in
the kiln are right.
The key is to ensure you have a dirty flame reduction atmosphere in the
kiln at the 1500-1700 degree range.
I would really stall the reduction in the kiln at this time. button up
the kiln for at least fifteen minutes or so and really let the copper mature.
Keep the kiln reducing until you are ready to shut it off. Many people
believe that you don't have to reduce the ware in the kiln at all when you
raku. I think you do if you don't want green or liver colored pots. Tell
me how you do!
Kristin Yount
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