David Hendley on mon 14 dec 98
Hey Tony,
I've had my Stihl 026 for about 14 years.
Here are a couple of tips:
Don't store your gas/oil mix in a plastic gas can. Use metal.
It seems like the gas slightly dissolves some of the plastic
and then it gums up your saw. My trusty chainsaw mechanic
told me this one when I brought it in with a problem.
Change the gas filter often. It's down inside the gas tank, and
it starts to deteriorate after a few years.
Change it for sure if you forgot to empty out the gas over
the summer and let the saw sit for many months. Well, on second
thought, I guess that's not a problem in the frozen North.
Of course, you already know to clean the air filter often and
keep the chain in top-notch condition.
Now, I'd like to throw out a theory to the wood coons:
This sounds like heresy, but my recent experences indicate
that the wood for my kiln can be TOO dry!
I'm not talking about wet wood, but just not kiln-dried or
aged-for-years wood.
I have a large fast-fire design, and when I use the super dry
wood things just go too fast and reduction is not consistant
throughout the kiln. With wood that has been dried for 4 to
6 months, things go great; 7 - 8 hour firings, even reduction,
even temperature.
I've heard of water being introduced into kilns to facilitate
reduction, and I wonder if maybe the slightly wet wood is
adding water vapor in the kiln atmosphere.
Has anyone elese had this kind of experience?
Any thoughts?
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
P. S.
When I was building my house, I eschewed the maple butcher
block that was available by-the-foot at the supply store, since
I could save a bundle by making it myself from maple boards.
When you figure in the burned-out 2 HP table saw motor
(that maple is hard stuff), pipe clamps, and a dozen belts for
the sander, I figure I was making minus $30 an hour for my
efforts.
At 02:12 PM 12/13/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>With a title like that I bet only the wood coons opened this one. Wood coon
>is what I call woodfirers. Usually during a firing they flip up their
>googles which reveals sooty black rings around their tired eyes. Look like
>racoons to me!
>I usually advise would be woodfirers to attend to their wood even before
>they build their kiln. Gotta have dry wood.
>We've been building our studio for the past three weeks and I took this
>weekend off. Well sorta. Heard of some free cherry wood. Five pickup loads
>and a new Stihl 026 later.
>My step son is building our studio and he is a very fine craftsman with a
>love and appreciation of tools. We've talked alot about getting what you
>pay for.
>I have bought many different chainsaws, Homelite, Partner, Sachs Dolmar,
>Craftsman and never really bit the bullet. Went out and bought the Lincoln
>Town car of saws- Stihl. This thing works like a trojan. I think it will
>last me a life time. Hope thats a long time for now.
>Buy Bison trimming tools, keep them sharp and if you think you are crazy
>enough to build a wood kiln buy a Stihl.
>Cheers,
>Tony
>P>S A buddy of mine decided he could cut his own wood and heat his home for
>free. Bought a woodlot $20,000, a new Chevy 4x4 $25,000. 4x4 Kubota tractor
>$15,000, woodsplitter $1500, Stihl chainsaw $600. Elmira Stoveworks
>cookstove $3000 and lots of blood, sweat and tears. He's as snug as a bug
>and it only cost him about $65,000 and the wood heats him 5 times. Once
>when he cuts it, once when he hauls, once when he splits it, once when he
>stacks it and once when he burns it.
>When you read an ad that says free- sit down and figure.
>
>Tony and Sheila Clennell
kurt l wild on tue 15 dec 98
David Hendley wrote:
"I wonder if maybe the slightly wet wood is
adding water vapor in the kiln atmosphere."
It is my understanding and if my memory serves me corexctly, the reduction of
the black and red Greek vases was due to the use of wet wood and at some point
later in the firing as the reduction dimished and part of the pot reoxided
resulting in the red and black. Again, if I remember correctly, Noble's book on
Attic Pottery or maybve the title was Attic Greek Potery. Someone out there
ought to know the corect title.
Brenda Woods on tue 15 dec 98
Dear David,
I just wanted to let you know that my husband is an engine mechanic and a
welder. We also have two of the mentioned chainsaws. He says that the oil
gasoline mixture that you are speaking of does not disolve the plastic. In
fact, it will gum up your saw no matter what you store the gas mixture in.
It is a chemical reaction in the gas can that causes the gas and oil to turn
into a laquer.The best thing to do with this type of engine (and he
specifies that it is with ANY gas /oil mixture) as they all will change into
laquer, Is to run the chain saw with no gas in it at all when you are
finished using it and plan to store it for any length of time.This includes
outboard motors, two cycles, weedeaters This cleans the moisture of the gas
out of the carbuerator and makes it so that the needle valves and jets do
not clog. Also he says to make new gasoline every time you run the chainsaw.
Do not use any gas and oil mixture that has been sitting for any length of
time longer than two months.
Good Luck!! Happy Motoring.
Brenda Woods
----------
>From: David Hendley
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Re: Stihl 026, kiln firewood theory
>Date: Mon, Dec 14, 1998, 3:39 PM
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hey Tony,
>I've had my Stihl 026 for about 14 years.
>Here are a couple of tips:
>
>Don't store your gas/oil mix in a plastic gas can. Use metal.
>It seems like the gas slightly dissolves some of the plastic
>and then it gums up your saw. My trusty chainsaw mechanic
>told me this one when I brought it in with a problem.
>
>Change the gas filter often. It's down inside the gas tank, and
>it starts to deteriorate after a few years.
>Change it for sure if you forgot to empty out the gas over
>the summer and let the saw sit for many months. Well, on second
>thought, I guess that's not a problem in the frozen North.
>
>Of course, you already know to clean the air filter often and
>keep the chain in top-notch condition.
>
>Now, I'd like to throw out a theory to the wood coons:
>
>This sounds like heresy, but my recent experences indicate
>that the wood for my kiln can be TOO dry!
>I'm not talking about wet wood, but just not kiln-dried or
>aged-for-years wood.
>I have a large fast-fire design, and when I use the super dry
>wood things just go too fast and reduction is not consistant
>throughout the kiln. With wood that has been dried for 4 to
>6 months, things go great; 7 - 8 hour firings, even reduction,
>even temperature.
>I've heard of water being introduced into kilns to facilitate
>reduction, and I wonder if maybe the slightly wet wood is
>adding water vapor in the kiln atmosphere.
>
>Has anyone elese had this kind of experience?
>Any thoughts?
>
>David Hendley
>Maydelle, Texas
>
>P. S.
>When I was building my house, I eschewed the maple butcher
>block that was available by-the-foot at the supply store, since
>I could save a bundle by making it myself from maple boards.
>When you figure in the burned-out 2 HP table saw motor
>(that maple is hard stuff), pipe clamps, and a dozen belts for
>the sander, I figure I was making minus $30 an hour for my
>efforts.
>
>
>
>
>At 02:12 PM 12/13/98 EST, you wrote:
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>With a title like that I bet only the wood coons opened this one. Wood coon
>>is what I call woodfirers. Usually during a firing they flip up their
>>googles which reveals sooty black rings around their tired eyes. Look like
>>racoons to me!
>>I usually advise would be woodfirers to attend to their wood even before
>>they build their kiln. Gotta have dry wood.
>>We've been building our studio for the past three weeks and I took this
>>weekend off. Well sorta. Heard of some free cherry wood. Five pickup loads
>>and a new Stihl 026 later.
>>My step son is building our studio and he is a very fine craftsman with a
>>love and appreciation of tools. We've talked alot about getting what you
>>pay for.
>>I have bought many different chainsaws, Homelite, Partner, Sachs Dolmar,
>>Craftsman and never really bit the bullet. Went out and bought the Lincoln
>>Town car of saws- Stihl. This thing works like a trojan. I think it will
>>last me a life time. Hope thats a long time for now.
>>Buy Bison trimming tools, keep them sharp and if you think you are crazy
>>enough to build a wood kiln buy a Stihl.
>>Cheers,
>>Tony
>>P>S A buddy of mine decided he could cut his own wood and heat his home for
>>free. Bought a woodlot $20,000, a new Chevy 4x4 $25,000. 4x4 Kubota tractor
>>$15,000, woodsplitter $1500, Stihl chainsaw $600. Elmira Stoveworks
>>cookstove $3000 and lots of blood, sweat and tears. He's as snug as a bug
>>and it only cost him about $65,000 and the wood heats him 5 times. Once
>>when he cuts it, once when he hauls, once when he splits it, once when he
>>stacks it and once when he burns it.
>>When you read an ad that says free- sit down and figure.
>>
>>Tony and Sheila Clennell
>
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