Liz Willoughby on wed 30 sep 98
Last spring I made up two rutile glazes that I got from clayart, I think
that they are from Karen Gringhuis.
C 10 R
Woo Blue Very shiny, deep blue/purple where thick, rusty orange where
G-200 42 thin. Needed a good cone 10 for the colour. I use
silica 27 porcelain, and a buff stoneware. LOOKS durable.
whiting 18
ball clay 13
plus
RIO 4
rutile 4
bentonite 1
Rutile Blue C 10 R A shiny OPAL blue
Dolomite 15.8
G-200 30.0
Whiting 11.1
EPK 16.8
Silica 26.3
rutile 8.0
I can just hear Tony now. I love tenmoku, shino, and celadon, and he
always said if you have to make a living making pots, you have to sell
blue. Well, the opal glaze doesn't turn me on, kind of looks like a cone 6
glaze, but the Woo Blue, has RUST in it!!!
For those who really like blues, Tracy Wilson posted a huge list, on
2/10/98 of c 9/10 Blue glazes, which I printed out. You might find it in
the archives.
No Blues For Me, Liz
Liz Willoughby
R.R. 1
Grafton, Ontario
Canada. K0K 2G0
e-mail lizwill@phc.igs.net
Ron Roy on fri 2 oct 98
The Woo Blue looks durable to me as well - even with the iron included in
unity with the fluxes - as it should be for reduced glazes and clays.
Im' not sure about the other one - it's short of silica.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Last spring I made up two rutile glazes that I got from clayart, I think
>that they are from Karen Gringhuis.
>
>C 10 R
>Woo Blue -Very shiny, deep blue/purple where thick, rusty orange where
>thin. Needed a good cone 10 for the colour. I use porcelain, and a buff
>stoneware. LOOKS durable.
>G-200 42
>silica 27
>whiting 18
>ball clay 13
>plus
>RIO 4
>rutile 4
>bentonite 1
>
>Rutile Blue C 10 R A shiny OPAL blue
>
>Dolomite 15.8
>G-200 30.0
>Whiting 11.1
>EPK 16.8
>Silica 26.3
>rutile 8.0
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
wjskw@BELLSOUTH.NET on tue 12 oct 04
At my very first ceramics class (back when the world
was still young ) the instructor mentioned that we would be
using various glazes. One that he mentioned was "rutile blue".
"Oh, wow," I thought. "A blue glaze! Blue is my favorite color,
I'm going to enjoy this class!"...and I proceeded to make things
(wonderful things, or so I thought then)that I was certain would be
complimented by a blue glaze. And glazed everything that I made
with it (that I didn't take a hammer to...I should have taken a
hammer to it all, but...)
"Wonderful," I thought, "I've got this pottery stuff down! Easy!
What's the big deal??!!"...... Famous last words, newbie thoughts.
Then we opened the kiln, a big gas car kiln that you could fit a
good number of the class members into (for bone ash, of course).
Not a blue pot to be seen. The instructor laughed when I asked very
seriously "What happened to all the blue pots??"
13 years now. I still haven't managed a decent blue out of rutile.
It's given me a helluva tan though. Or is that from living in South
Florida? That darned rutile gets a little different every year. =20
So do I.
Wayne Seidl
Key West FL US
"Life is sexually transmitted"=20
Kathi LeSueur on tue 22 may 07
I opened the kiln this morning to the latest tests of a problem rutile
blue glaze. I calcined another batch of rutile and mixed up a larger
batch of the glaze. I used it on a variety of forms. None had pitting. I
made one variation in my firing. I had noticed that my red comes out
much more brilliant if I do an oxidation soak when cone 8 is just
tipping, holding the temperature for about one half hour. Since I had a
lot of red in this firing I did the soak. All of my rutile blue pieces
were good. The surface absolutely perfect.
So- now I want to test my titanium white. It has been giving me the same
problems for years and I've tried everything. I'll calcine the powder in
the bisque and try it on vases since that's the form that had the most
problems.
If anyone else is having problems with pitting on rutile blues I highly
recommend calcining the rutile. And, if it works for you let us know.
Kathi
Gay Judson on tue 22 may 07
Kathy, How do you calculate the amount of calcined rutile to use?
Thanks, Gay Judson
Gay Judson on wed 23 may 07
Kathy, thanks for the information. Gay Judson
Lynne and Bruce Girrell on wed 23 may 07
Kathi
Could you describe your pitting a bit more? I don't have what I would call
pitting, rather I get a lot of small bubbles in the glaze, some of which
have the tops broken, resulting in sharp edges. Are we talking about the
same thing?
Bruce Girrell
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Kathi LeSueur on wed 23 may 07
Gay Judson wrote:
>Kathy, How do you calculate the amount of calcined rutile to use?
>Thanks, Gay Judson>>
>
The first time around I weighed out the amount of rutile for the batch
before calcining it. There were 28 grams going in and 27 coming out. I
decided this difference wasn't enough to affect the color. So, the
second time around I calcined about a cup of rutile and then weighed it
out for the glaze without trying to compensate for the difference. The
color was the same.
Kathi
>
>
>
>
Chris trabka on wed 23 may 07
Kathi,
>So, the
>second time around I calcined about a cup of rutile and then weighed it
>out for the glaze without trying to compensate for the difference. The
>color was the same.
Did you use the entire batch of the first glaze before you mixed the second
batch of glaze?
Questions for Ron, John, and others:
Would calcinating a glaze ingrediant (rutile) work if the glaze mixture
(slop) stays wet for an incredably long time (I mix my "standard" glazes
about once a year)?
If calcinating works with rutile would the same method work for titanium
dioxide?
Chris
Kathi LeSueur on wed 23 may 07
Lynne and Bruce Girrell wrote:
> Kathi
>
> Could you describe your pitting a bit more? I don't have what I would call
> pitting, rather I get a lot of small bubbles in the glaze, some of which
> have the tops broken, resulting in sharp edges. Are we talking about the
> same thing?
>
> Bruce Girrell
>
>
Yes, that's exactly it.
K
Kathi LeSueur on wed 23 may 07
Chris trabka wrote:
>Did you use the entire batch of the first glaze before you mixed the second
>batch of glaze?
>
NO, but I did several firings with it.
Kathi
>
>
>
>
Richard Aerni on wed 23 may 07
As has been stated on clayart many times before, if you purchase "Ceramic
rutile" which has been refined by TAM, it has already been calcined. This
brand comes in bags which say "welding rod titanate" on the front. It is
differentiated from the other, uncalcined rutile, which goes by the names of
"dark rutile" and "ruflux 61."
Best,
Richard Aerni
Rochester, NY
On Wed, 23 May 2007 07:51:50 -0500, Kathi LeSueur
wrote:
>
>The first time around I weighed out the amount of rutile for the batch
>before calcining it. There were 28 grams going in and 27 coming out. I
>decided this difference wasn't enough to affect the color. So, the
>second time around I calcined about a cup of rutile and then weighed it
>out for the glaze without trying to compensate for the difference. The
>color was the same.
>
>Kathi
Carol Bronson on fri 25 may 07
bruce, i have the same problem you do with the rutile blues. what can you do about it?
thanks
Lynne and Bruce Girrell wrote: Kathi
Could you describe your pitting a bit more? I don't have what I would call
pitting, rather I get a lot of small bubbles in the glaze, some of which
have the tops broken, resulting in sharp edges. Are we talking about the
same thing?
Bruce Girrell
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Lynne and Bruce Girrell on fri 25 may 07
Carol Bronson wrote
>bruce, i have the same problem you do with the rutile blues. what can you
>do about it?
Well, I'm certainly going to try Kathi LeSueur 's suggestion to calcine my
rutile next time.
While I already have a pretty good sized batch of the rutile recipes that we
use already made up, it's definitely worth the effort to experiment with a
new batch using calcined rutile. I have not bought any new supplies since I
made up my last batch, so I will be dealing with the same ingredients. The
only difference will be the calcining.
I have a little kiln repair to do before my next firing, so it may be a bit
before I can post results, but I will definitely post my findings when I do
have the opportunity to fire again.
I have been using draw rings to determine the point at which my glazes have
completely melted and I could see the bubbles forming and expanding in
successive rings. I just didn't know what to do to help minimize them. Dave
Finkelnburg presented some data at NCECA that indicated that (under his test
conditons) bubbles in the glaze result from gases trapped in the pore space
of the dried glaze as the glaze begins to melt. My best rutile blues result
from layering a runny, non-iron rutile blue (Pete Pinnel's Cash Blue) over a
stiffer, iron-bearing rutile blue (Dave Hendley's Rutile Blue 51). With the
outer glaze being runny, Dave Finkelnburg's model may fit well with the
runnier glaze melting first and trapping the bubbles. But if calcining can
eliminate the gas evolution, then I may be in business.
Bruce "cross your fingers" Girrell
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steve graber on fri 25 may 07
i used to get that on the inside of bowls.
i found along the way that tenmoku works as a great base glaze for the rutile glazes to come out vivid & strong. i think it's the iron helping...
but they'd run and pool in bowls & pin hole in the glaze.
now i glaze only the rims and let the rutiles run and they seem to get into a thin sheet & i don't get pin holes anymore.
perhaps you just need to thin the glaze a little bit or provide roiom for it to run some?
see ya
steve
www.graberspottery.com
use The Steve Tool for awesome texture
Carol Bronson wrote:
bruce, i have the same problem you do with the rutile blues. what can you do about it?
thanks
Lynne and Bruce Girrell wrote: Kathi
Could you describe your pitting a bit more? I don't have what I would call
pitting, rather I get a lot of small bubbles in the glaze, some of which
have the tops broken, resulting in sharp edges. Are we talking about the
same thing?
Bruce Girrell
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______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
"honey, it will either work out or it wont"
carol
---------------------------------
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Steve Graber, Graber's Pottery, Inc
Claremont, California USA
The Steve Tool - for awesum texture on pots!
www.graberspottery.com steve@graberspottery.com
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Ron Roy on sat 26 may 07
Hi Chris,
Good question. If you calcine zinc oxide to get rid of the added H2O will
it rehydrate in the bucket - I assume so. But if you are calcining for some
other reason - like to drive off carbon - I would guess the answer would be
yes, it would be a permanent fix.
All good incentive for doing some experiments to see what does work.
Trouble is we usually try two or more things at a time and wind up not
knowing what works and what does not. Then we are bound to do all of them
each time because we really don't know which did the job.
RR
>Kathi,
>
>>So, the
>>second time around I calcined about a cup of rutile and then weighed it
>>out for the glaze without trying to compensate for the difference. The
>>color was the same.
>
>Did you use the entire batch of the first glaze before you mixed the second
>batch of glaze?
>
>Questions for Ron, John, and others:
>Would calcinating a glaze ingrediant (rutile) work if the glaze mixture
>(slop) stays wet for an incredably long time (I mix my "standard" glazes
>about once a year)?
>
>If calcinating works with rutile would the same method work for titanium
>dioxide?
>
>Chris
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Veena Raghavan on fri 24 aug 07
Hi Kathi,
I am going through my saved Clayart posts, and you mentioned calcining rutile
solved your rutile blue pitting problems. Could you please tell us to what
temp did you calcine the rutile.
Thanks in advance.
Veena
In a message dated 5/22/2007 9:59:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kathi@LESUEURCLAYWORK.COM writes:
>
> If anyone else is having problems with pitting on rutile blues I highly
> recommend calcining the rutile. And, if it works for you let us know.
>
> Kathi
VeenaRaghavan@cs.com
KATHI LESUEUR on sun 26 aug 07
On Aug 24, 2007, at 9:14 PM, Veena Raghavan wrote:
> Hi Kathi,
>
> I am going through my saved Clayart posts, and you mentioned
> calcining rutile
> solved your rutile blue pitting problems. Could you please tell us
> to what
> temp did you calcine the rutile.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Veena
>
>
>
I calcined it in the bisque to cone 05. It tends to clump after the
firing but it will go through a screen ok.
Kathi
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