Laura FREEDMAN on wed 12 aug 98
I have just started a tile project for my bedroom. My first experience
with tile making. I am using Standard 308 Brooklyn Red which is an
absolute gorgeous color. My question - must I make grooves or some kind
of lines on the back to keep the tiles flat? Or for installation. I did
one test tile and the 06 firing warped the tile a bit. When it went
through the ^6 firing it came out as flat as a pancake. Was I lucky?
Do I need to be more cautious? I am drying my tiles between two boards
until bone dry. The tiles are to be used on risers, not on a floor. Any
info would be appreciated. Laura
Earl Brunner on thu 13 aug 98
In a message dated 8/12/98 5:41:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
lauras@ezonline.com writes:
<< My question - must I make grooves or some kind
of lines on the back to keep the tiles flat? >>
Hush my puppy if I'm wrong, but my understanding about groves on the back of
tiles is that it has nothing to do with warpage, but to aid in the adhering of
the tile to the surface that it is being applied to. And many commercial tiles
don't even have that.
Jenna Logan on sat 15 aug 98
I found a good book on tile making : Frank Giorgini's "Handmade Tiles"
Hope this helps. Jenna
Angelica Pozo on sun 16 aug 98
The texturing of the back of the tile does greatly aid in the tensile
adhesion of the cement or adhesive during the drying and curing stages.
I generally prefer to make thickish beefy tiles of 1/2" thickness. The
thicker the tile, the more substance to handle and I find less chance of
accidently flexing the wet tile. On the backs of these I then gouge out
rows of deep grooves with a i/2" wide ribbon trim tool. That helps with
making a lighter tile and creating more drying surface areas for more
even drying, less warping. My tile setter loves those grooves. They
create such a strong tensile suction that it takes great effort to
remove a misplaced tile even while cement is still quite fresh. He
doesn't have to give a second thought to any of those babies deciding to
leap off the wall before their time. When making thinner tiles I don't
gouge grooves but I still texture with a comb tool.
I air dry tiles between drywall sheets. When I'm in big production mode
I don't have time or space to allow complete drying in there so after a
day or two, I take them out and stack them face to face on top of each
other to finish the air drying process.
When bisquing I stack them on edge, leaning just about 3 or 4 against
each other, cantelivering each group off the sides of kiln, edge of
preceeding group or add a softbrick in middle to canteliver off that. I
have found much less problems with cracking bisquing this way rather
than stacked on top of each other. Air can circulate more freely. And
movement is not hindered.
Pleasant dreams in your newly tiled bedroom.
Angelica Pozo
angelicapozo@earthlink.net
Joy Holdread on sun 23 aug 98
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I have just started a tile project for my bedroom. My first experience
> with tile making. I am using Standard 308 Brooklyn Red which is an
> absolute gorgeous color. My question - must I make grooves or some kind
> of lines on the back to keep the tiles flat? Or for installation. I did
> one test tile and the 06 firing warped the tile a bit. When it went
> through the ^6 firing it came out as flat as a pancake. Was I lucky?
> Do I need to be more cautious? I am drying my tiles between two boards
> until bone dry. The tiles are to be used on risers, not on a floor. Any
> info would be appreciated. Laura
I like to grove tiles on the horizontal for vertical installations. Gives the
thin set something to grab on to.
JOY in Tucson
>
Mike Gordon on tue 25 aug 98
Hi,
I always fire my tiles on edge, in any configuration to make use of the
space, Mike
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