Joanne Van Bezooyen on wed 25 nov 98
Is it our only option to purchase underglazes?....or does someone know a
recipe so we can make our own?
Joanne
Andrew Lubow on thu 26 nov 98
John Conrad's Advanced Ceramic Manual, Falcon Company Publishers, ISBN:
0-935921-06-2 has a formula on page 67.
-----Original Message-----
From: Joanne Van Bezooyen
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Wednesday, November 25, 1998 11:13 AM
Subject: underglaze recipes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Is it our only option to purchase underglazes?....or does someone know a
>recipe so we can make our own?
>Joanne
Andrew Lubow on thu 26 nov 98
Here is a adaptation of a John Conrad formula from his Advanced Ceramic
Manual for a Ceramic Watercolors Base. I've used as an underglaze (It should
also be useable as an overglaze). Additions of stains and oxides can be done
to personal taste. Mortar and Pestle all ingredients to mix them. Mold the
mix in Icecube trays for cakes and allow to dry.
Ball Clay 23%
EPK 23%
Silica 23%
F- 4 Kona Spar 23%
Bentonite 8%
Add: 1 liquid ounce Glycerin per 100 grams
2 ounces of CMC Liquid per 100 grams
1 liquid ounce of Sodium Silicate per 100 grams
Try this for a variation: make up the mixture (plus between 10 and 40 % of
your colorant), then add water to a heavy cream consistancy. Mold it in the
Ice Cube Tray. When it dries you can add water to it like a child's
watercolor set. Use it as an underglaze or overglaze colorant
Andy Lubow
Email: Disneylover@msn.com
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-----Original Message-----
From: Joanne Van Bezooyen
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Wednesday, November 25, 1998 11:13 AM
Subject: underglaze recipes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Is it our only option to purchase underglazes?....or does someone know a
>recipe so we can make our own?
>Joanne
Dan Bare on thu 26 nov 98
dear joann
the Susan Peterson book has good recipes for underglazes and making your own
underglazes. Although you will never get the same bright colors as with
bought underglazes but it saves alot of money!! I have some recieps i ll have
to dig them up though. I think they might be from Mason Mason will supply you
with the recipes also I think.... If you want these Or more info email me
Bambambare@aol.com
dan bare
MudWorks Boonton NJ
Greg Lamont on fri 27 nov 98
Hi Joanne,
Here you are:
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+++ Ingrid's Underglaze Recipe +++
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Date: 08/20/97
Frit 3110 30 33.3%
EPK 30 33.3%
Mason Stain 30 33.3%
-------- ------
90 100 %
Notes:
Also add: Sta-Flo Laundry starch to consistency of thin yogurt. Thin
further with water as necessary.
Overglaze with a clear cone 04 glaze of your choice.
Mason stains may be blended to achieve intermediate colors.
Happy Thanksgiving,
Greg
At 12:13 PM 11/25/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Is it our only option to purchase underglazes?....or does someone know a
>recipe so we can make our own?
>Joanne
>
Greg Lamont
3011 Northwood Dr.
Ames, Iowa 50010-4750
515/233-3442
gdlamont@iastate.edu
Reid Harvey on fri 27 nov 98
Joanne,
If you can get hold of a copy of Ceramic Industry, January 1952, you
will find about twenty five recipes for undergazes and stains, listed by
color. I'm including half a dozen below, which seem to indicate the
kinds and variety of materials used.
>Is it our only option to purchase underglazes?....or does someone know >a recip
GREEN
23% chrome oxide
76 flint
1 whiting
BLUE
89% aluminum oxide
11 cobalt oxide
BLACK
89% iron chromate
11 cobalt oxide
PINK
50.5% tin oxide
19.0 whiting
7.5 fluorspar
20.5 flint
7.5 potassium dichromate
VIOLET
13.7% flint
34.3 tin oxide
21.5 whiting
2.4 china clay
5.0 borax
8.6 ammonium chloride
8.6 chrome oxide
5.9 cobalt oxide
BUFF
13.1% iron oxide
13.2 chrome oxide
17.6 calcined alumina
56.1 zinc oxide
Sorry I am not including recipes containing lead. And I'll leave to
others ideas for substitute materials or preparation.
If there is interest I could give the remaining twelve or so (those not
containing lead). The article also contains a lot of other, interesting
clay bodies and glazes, for a variety of applications. ie. dinnerware
bodies, vitreaous sanitaryware bodies, floor tile bodies, chemical
porcelain bodies, high tension insulator bodies, frits, various glazes
at various temperatures and more. If anyone is aware of a comparable
article that's more recent than 1952 I would really be interested.
Reid Harvey
Ceramiques d'Afrique d'Abidjan
Cote d'Ivoire
P.S. I was recently interested to find in Norsker and Danisch's, Glazes
for the Self Reliant Potter, Saggar cone recipes from about ^020 up to
^13 or so. I would imagine much the same recipes could be used as an aid
in developing various claybodies (and glazes) by temperature.
Amiram Khen on fri 27 nov 98
Thanks for the useful info.
Please clarify the following:
a. Define CMC liquid
b. Should one add all three additions or just one of them ?
Thanks again
Amiram
Andrew Lubow wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Here is a adaptation of a John Conrad formula from his Advanced Ceramic
> Manual for a Ceramic Watercolors Base. I've used as an underglaze (It should
> also be useable as an overglaze). Additions of stains and oxides can be done
> to personal taste. Mortar and Pestle all ingredients to mix them. Mold the
> mix in Icecube trays for cakes and allow to dry.
>
> Ball Clay 23%
> EPK 23%
> Silica 23%
> F- 4 Kona Spar 23%
> Bentonite 8%
>
> Add: 1 liquid ounce Glycerin per 100 grams
> 2 ounces of CMC Liquid per 100 grams
> 1 liquid ounce of Sodium Silicate per 100 grams
>
> Try this for a variation: make up the mixture (plus between 10 and 40 % of
> your colorant), then add water to a heavy cream consistancy. Mold it in the
> Ice Cube Tray. When it dries you can add water to it like a child's
> watercolor set. Use it as an underglaze or overglaze colorant
>
> Andy Lubow
> Email: Disneylover@msn.com
> Visit our Expedia North American Forum @
> http://expedia.com/forums/namer/
> Travel Resources Chat 9:00 PM Eastern, Wednesdays
> Also try our Expedia Theme Parks Forum @
> http://expedia.com/forums/theme/
>
> "Live every day like it was your last. Someday you'll be right!!"
> Benny Hill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joanne Van Bezooyen
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Date: Wednesday, November 25, 1998 11:13 AM
> Subject: underglaze recipes
>
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Is it our only option to purchase underglazes?....or does someone know a
> >recipe so we can make our own?
> >Joanne
Tim Stowell on sat 28 nov 98
Underglazes are easy.
A few ideas to start with.
1) Use a pinch of gum, a little water, a little frit (leadless of
course), and assorted metal oxides
and/or mason/baldwin/etc stains - voila - a watercolorish underglaze.
or
2) A little white earthenware slip (if your using white earthenware for
the body use the same clay),
a pinch of gum, a little water, a little frit (leadless of course), and
assorted metal oxides and/or
mason/baldwin/etc stains - poof - a less watercolorish underglaze.
or
3) Begin with a commercial underglaze and add some assorted metal oxides
and/or mason/baldwin/etc
stains - bam - you've either got something ugly or a cool new color no
one else has.
I'm not going to give you proportions - just play around - you
can get the idea of how it works
in very small inexpensive quantities. At the same time you'll learn more
about what colors come from
what oxides and combinations of oxides. If you need exact recipes - stick
to commercials - if you want
to develop your own palette, this is a good beginning. Be aware that
temperature also affects the colors.
Experiment, enjoy, learn.
Personally we figure out what color we want and then we do what
it takes to get that color. If
it comes out of a jar that's fine...If I alter or mix commercial
underglazes that's ok too...If I have to begin
from scratch to get the color we want then I do that also. We use
commercial underglazes exclusively for
the colors Black, Bright Red (real red), and White...One of our blues is
strictly commercial to. The Black,
Red and Blue underglaze was cheaper to buy than to make myself...and the
Red was much more stable.
As far as the white goes why bother.
The gum is not always necessary it helps with brushing and
keeping it on the pots until it's fired.
Don't use too much or you'll grow mold. The frit is necessary to get the
underglaze to stay on the pot after it's
fired...Needless to say if you use too much frit..guess what?...You have
a glaze, a mess, or a sculpture.
Keep good records. You can measure by volume or by weight..just
be consistent and keep an open
mind. Measuring by weight is a much more scalable method, but, if you
have an open mind and usually mix
the same quantity volume can work as well.
I'm sorry this is so long, and I'm sure many of the techno people
will say I'm doing it all wrong.
#$%@&'em it works for me.
-Tim
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Greg Lamont on sat 28 nov 98
Hi Joanne,
Here's a recipe for making your own underglazes that we've had great
success with:
33.3% Frit 3124
33.3 EPK
33.3 Mason Stain
------
99.9%
Notes:
Also add: liquid laundry starch (we use Sta-Flo brand) to consistency of
thin yogurt. Thin further with water, as necessary to desired application
consistency.
For red, yellow and orange we use an encapsulated stain.
Overglaze with a clear cone 04 glaze of your choice.
Mason stains may be blended to achieve intermediate colors.
Enjoy,
Greg
At 12:13 PM 11/25/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Is it our only option to purchase underglazes?....or does someone know a
>recipe so we can make our own?
>Joanne
>
Greg Lamont
3011 Northwood Dr.
Ames, Iowa 50010-4750
515/233-3442
gdlamont@iastate.edu
Veena Raghavan on sun 29 nov 98
Greg,
Can this underglaze be used up to Cone 6?
Thanks in advance.
Veena
Veena Raghavan
75124.2520@compuserve.com
Greg Lamont on mon 30 nov 98
At 07:39 PM 11/29/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Greg,
> Can this underglaze be used up to Cone 6?
>Thanks in advance.
>Veena
>Veena Raghavan
>75124.2520@compuserve.com
>
Hi Veena,
I don't know--I've never fired it that high. I don't see why not, though
it would depend someshat on the Mason stain color used. Some might be
unstable at the higher temps. I guess you'll have to try it and see. I
wont be working with them until after the Holidays--too busy with other
work right now. Good Luck
Greg
Greg Lamont
3011 Northwood Dr.
Ames, Iowa 50010-4750
515/233-3442
gdlamont@iastate.edu
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