Deb Pratt on wed 28 oct 98
Greetings! I read Clayart daily with great interest and ask questions
from time to time when I get the nerve up :) .
This one has to do with a used kiln I recently purchased. The current
discussion on the worn kiln cord is appropriate for my kiln also, but I
have another question. My kiln is a Paragon that looks to be in
reasonably good shape. However, I am not sure what "good shape" should
look like.
Is there a book, CM article, or willing commentator out there suggesting
what one should look for in assessing the condition of a kiln before
just firing it up? If you recall a thread on this that I can find in
the archives, I'll be more than happy to give it a hunt.
I have really appreciated the "oops" stories that come across Clayart,
but on this one, I don't want to be contributing one of my own!
Thank you!
Deb (in Michigan where the weather just can't make up its mind about
summer or fall...summer or fall....)
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ceramics@epix.net on thu 29 oct 98
In article <19981027180221.14205.qmail@hotmail.com>,
Deb Pratt wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Greetings! I read Clayart daily with great interest and ask questions
> from time to time when I get the nerve up :) .
> This one has to do with a used kiln I recently purchased. The current
> discussion on the worn kiln cord is appropriate for my kiln also, but I
> have another question. My kiln is a Paragon that looks to be in
> reasonably good shape. However, I am not sure what "good shape" should
> look like.
> Is there a book, CM article, or willing commentator out there suggesting
> what one should look for in assessing the condition of a kiln before
> just firing it up? If you recall a thread on this that I can find in
> the archives, I'll be more than happy to give it a hunt.
> I have really appreciated the "oops" stories that come across Clayart,
> but on this one, I don't want to be contributing one of my own!
> Thank you!
> Deb (in Michigan where the weather just can't make up its mind about
> summer or fall...summer or fall....)
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
-- Look to see if all the elements are there. Look (not touch) to be sure
none are broken. If any are broken they will need to be replaced before
firing up. What condition is the firebrick in ? You can live with small
pieces broken, but not chunks. Is the metal casing around the outside snug,
if not tighten it up. If all looks well, turn each switch on, one at a
time,to see if the elements heat up. Did you get a manual with your kiln ?
If yes, go through it as though it were "new", eliminating the obvious (such
as unpacking). Hope this is of some help. Andy CERAMICS & SUCH Palmyra PA,
USA
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Phyllis E. Tilton on thu 29 oct 98
Deb: When I set up my studio, I bought a used kiln. There were many other
things that I bought new--an electric wheel, and the kazillion other pieces of
equipment that are needed. I was asking questions at the local clay
company(where I obtained all the other stuff) about the kiln use. The man that
owns the company came to our home and checked the kiln completely. It was in
good shape, he talked me through how to fire it, gave me his phone number to
call if I had a problem. He gave me lots of confidence and, thereby, obtained
a loyal customer. Do you have a supplier that you can call on for advice? Some
day I know I will want to replace the kiln and he will have my business.
Phyllis Tilton
Daisypet@AOL.com
Frank Tucker on fri 30 oct 98
At 09:11 AM 10/28/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Greetings! I read Clayart daily with great interest and ask questions
>from time to time when I get the nerve up :) .
>This one has to do with a used kiln I recently purchased. The current
>discussion on the worn kiln cord is appropriate for my kiln also, but I
>have another question. My kiln is a Paragon that looks to be in
>reasonably good shape. However, I am not sure what "good shape" should
>look like.
>Is there a book, CM article, or willing commentator out there suggesting
>what one should look for in assessing the condition of a kiln before
>just firing it up? If you recall a thread on this that I can find in
>the archives, I'll be more than happy to give it a hunt.
>I have really appreciated the "oops" stories that come across Clayart,
>but on this one, I don't want to be contributing one of my own!
>Thank you!
>Deb (in Michigan where the weather just can't make up its mind about
>summer or fall...summer or fall....)
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
When looking at a used kiln to assess it's value/condition, you should
always assume that it will require some electrical work. Replacing
elements, connectors, switches and wire will become a regular part of your
kiln maintenance routine and it's easy to do. Factor it into the cost of
having a kiln.
Bricks, however, can be another story. Looking at the condition of the
bricks can tell you just how well the kiln was treated by it's previous
owner. If there are lots of chips in the wall bricks then it is likely
that the owner was either not very careful when loading or unloading the
shelves, or perhaps when replacing elements. If the chips in the brick are
small, they will not affect the kilns performance, and anywhere that a
brick ledge supports an element, you can always simply add a Kanthal pin.
If however the bricks in the wall have suffered a lot of damage and need to
actually be replaced, then you are looking at a very labour intensive job.
To replace kiln bricks involves basically unbuilding and rebuilding the
kiln. You will need to remove the switch box, dismantle the exterior sheet
metal, and most likely also replace the element that runs through that
particular brick as it will probably break when being handled. All of this
should be factored into the price.
If the kiln has cracks in the lid or floor, but they are not large enough
to actually allow the lid to "flex" when being opened or closed, don't
worry. All lids will crack one day - no matter what anyone tells you. A
lid or floor slab is made of several different materials (bricks, mortar,
steel, insulation...), and just like clays and glazes, they will all have
different coefficients of expansion. There is a lot of stress in a lid
when being fired and cooled, and it may need to crack to relieve that stress.
Well, I don't know how well this helps - it may be more, or perhaps less
info. than you were looking for. If you have any questions, don't hesitate
to ask.
Michael Leonard
Tucker's Pottery Supplies
tuckers@passport.ca
Philip Schroeder on sat 31 oct 98
In a message dated 98-10-30 08:22:44 EST, you write:
<< This one has to do with a used kiln I recently purchased. The current
> discussion on the worn kiln cord is appropriate for my kiln also, but I
> have another question. My kiln is a Paragon that looks to be in
> reasonably good shape. However, I am not sure what "good shape" should
> look like. >>
Hi Deb,
While I am not really an expert, I have refurbished a few used electric kilns.
Check to see if the brick is sound and free of cracks etc. Then check the
elements for breaks, sagging spots. All this can be repaired/replaced if
necessary. As to worn cords and switches and kiln sitters, in my limited
experience with used kilns, I have had to do some replacement of these. All
those contact points can corrode. I have gone to direct wiring verses a
recepticle and plug as these connectins can corrode over time and cause
problems. I would reccommend hiring a qualified electrician to install the
wiring. Phil Schroeder in Chicago
Olivia T Cavy on sat 31 oct 98
A quick way to test if a section of heating element is heating at all is
to gently place paper matches in the elements while the kiln is off. The
paper end goes between the coils without distorting the coils. The bulb
of the match sticks out into the kiln.
After the matches are placed all around the elements, turn on the kiln
with the lid open and watch as the matches ignite. It takes a few minutes
for this test. If there is no heat in a section of an element, the match
won't burn.
Bonnie
Bonnie D. Hellman
Pittsburgh, PA
work email: bdh@firstcaptl.com or oliviatcavy@juno.com
home email: mou10man@sgi.net
>-- Look to see if all the elements are there. Look (not touch) to be
>sure
>none are broken. If any are broken they will need to be replaced
>before
>firing up. What condition is the firebrick in ? You can live with
>small
>pieces broken, but not chunks. Is the metal casing around the outside
>snug,
>if not tighten it up. If all looks well, turn each switch on, one at a
>time,to see if the elements heat up. Did you get a manual with your
>kiln ?
>If yes, go through it as though it were "new", eliminating the obvious
>(such
>as unpacking). Hope this is of some help. Andy CERAMICS & SUCH
>Palmyra PA,
>USA
On Thu, 29 Oct 1998 16:48:58 EST ceramics@epix.net writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>In article <19981027180221.14205.qmail@hotmail.com>,
> Deb Pratt wrote:
>> Greetings! I read Clayart daily with great interest and ask
>questions
>> from time to time when I get the nerve up :) .
>> This one has to do with a used kiln I recently purchased. The
>current
>> discussion on the worn kiln cord is appropriate for my kiln also,
>but I
>> have another question. My kiln is a Paragon that looks to be in
>> reasonably good shape. However, I am not sure what "good shape"
>should
>> look like.
>> Is there a book, CM article, or willing commentator out there
>suggesting
>> what one should look for in assessing the condition of a kiln before
>> just firing it up? If you recall a thread on this that I can find
>in
>> the archives, I'll be more than happy to give it a hunt.
>> I have really appreciated the "oops" stories that come across
>Clayart,
>> but on this one, I don't want to be contributing one of my own!
>> Thank you!
>> Deb (in Michigan where the weather just can't make up its mind about
>> summer or fall...summer or fall....)
>>
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