Dai Scott on tue 3 nov 98
I've been reading about lots of people using a mixture of cold wax and
alumina hydrate for waxing bottoms of pots, instead of using kiln wash on
the shelves. Also, intrigued to read that it helps in separating
well-fitting lids from pots after firing. Question: what ratio of a.h. to
wax? Even a vague figure would be a good starting point. I already cut the
wax with about 1/3 water before using it---I find that the brush doesn't
"gum up" as badly if the wax is thinned out. So, if anyone out there wants
to share their secret of the wax/alumina hydrate mixture, I'd be thrilled!
Dai Scott in Kelowna, B.C. where it's getting pretty nippy at night, but no
snow yet.
"I love deadlines....I especially like the whooshing sound they make as they
go flying by." Anon.
Don & June MacDonald on wed 4 nov 98
Hi Dai: I just put a tablespoon into about half a pint jar of thinned
wax, have to keep it stirred up though. I also drop about a tablespoon
of alumina hydrate into the hot wax pan (recycled candle stubs) used for
waxing flat bottomed items. The alumina hydrate helps prevent plucking
of the corners of the foot rings if your clay is prone to that, and
works at any temp.
June
Dai Scott wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been reading about lots of people using a mixture of cold wax and
> alumina hydrate for waxing bottoms of pots, instead of using kiln wash on
> the shelves. Also, intrigued to read that it helps in separating
> well-fitting lids from pots after firing. Question: what ratio of a.h. to
> wax? Even a vague figure would be a good starting point. I already cut the
> wax with about 1/3 water before using it---I find that the brush doesn't
> "gum up" as badly if the wax is thinned out. So, if anyone out there wants
> to share their secret of the wax/alumina hydrate mixture, I'd be thrilled!
>
> Dai Scott in Kelowna, B.C. where it's getting pretty nippy at night, but no
> snow yet.
> "I love deadlines....I especially like the whooshing sound they make as they
> go flying by." Anon.
paul on tue 10 nov 98
Dia,
I just mix the powder in with the wax, I also cut the wax with water to
make it more fluid.
Silica is much cheaper than alumina and will do the same job!!
- Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: Dai Scott
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:19 AM
Subject: Wax & alumina hydrate
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I've been reading about lots of people using a mixture of cold wax and
alumina hydrate for waxing bottoms of pots, instead of using kiln wash on
the shelves. Also, intrigued to read that it helps in separating
well-fitting lids from pots after firing. Question: what ratio of a.h. to
wax? Even a vague figure would be a good starting point. I already cut the
wax with about 1/3 water before using it---I find that the brush doesn't
"gum up" as badly if the wax is thinned out. So, if anyone out there wants
to share their secret of the wax/alumina hydrate mixture, I'd be thrilled!
Dai Scott in Kelowna, B.C. where it's getting pretty nippy at night, but no
snow yet.
"I love deadlines....I especially like the whooshing sound they make as they
go flying by." Anon.
Earl Brunner on wed 11 nov 98
You use silica if you want, I'll stick to alumina hydrate, it's just not that
much more expensive and my porcelain gets VERY sticky at cone 10.
paul wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dia,
>
> I just mix the powder in with the wax, I also cut the wax with water to
> make it more fluid.
> Silica is much cheaper than alumina and will do the same job!!
>
> - Paul
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dai Scott
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:19 AM
> Subject: Wax & alumina hydrate
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been reading about lots of people using a mixture of cold wax and
> alumina hydrate for waxing bottoms of pots, instead of using kiln wash on
> the shelves. Also, intrigued to read that it helps in separating
> well-fitting lids from pots after firing. Question: what ratio of a.h. to
> wax? Even a vague figure would be a good starting point. I already cut the
> wax with about 1/3 water before using it---I find that the brush doesn't
> "gum up" as badly if the wax is thinned out. So, if anyone out there wants
> to share their secret of the wax/alumina hydrate mixture, I'd be thrilled!
>
> Dai Scott in Kelowna, B.C. where it's getting pretty nippy at night, but no
> snow yet.
> "I love deadlines....I especially like the whooshing sound they make as they
> go flying by." Anon.
Dan / Joanne Taylor on wed 11 nov 98
I've used dry alumina hydrate on my shelves for years now, instead of kiln
wash. Just dust it on with a shaker. Works great! Shelves stay as good as
new. You do have to be careful not to get it on your pots, but it really hasn't
been a problem. Dress the shelves before putting them in the kiln, making sure
to run your finger over the edges to remove any surplus there.
Dan Taylor
Taylor Clayworks
Medicine Hat, AB
paul wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dia,
>
> I just mix the powder in with the wax, I also cut the wax with water to
> make it more fluid.
> Silica is much cheaper than alumina and will do the same job!!
>
> - Paul
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dai Scott
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:19 AM
> Subject: Wax & alumina hydrate
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been reading about lots of people using a mixture of cold wax and
> alumina hydrate for waxing bottoms of pots, instead of using kiln wash on
> the shelves. Also, intrigued to read that it helps in separating
> well-fitting lids from pots after firing. Question: what ratio of a.h. to
> wax? Even a vague figure would be a good starting point. I already cut the
> wax with about 1/3 water before using it---I find that the brush doesn't
> "gum up" as badly if the wax is thinned out. So, if anyone out there wants
> to share their secret of the wax/alumina hydrate mixture, I'd be thrilled!
>
> Dai Scott in Kelowna, B.C. where it's getting pretty nippy at night, but no
> snow yet.
> "I love deadlines....I especially like the whooshing sound they make as they
> go flying by." Anon.
paul wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dia,
>
> I just mix the powder in with the wax, I also cut the wax with water to
> make it more fluid.
> Silica is much cheaper than alumina and will do the same job!!
>
> - Paul
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dai Scott
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:19 AM
> Subject: Wax & alumina hydrate
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been reading about lots of people using a mixture of cold wax and
> alumina hydrate for waxing bottoms of pots, instead of using kiln wash on
> the shelves. Also, intrigued to read that it helps in separating
> well-fitting lids from pots after firing. Question: what ratio of a.h. to
> wax? Even a vague figure would be a good starting point. I already cut the
> wax with about 1/3 water before using it---I find that the brush doesn't
> "gum up" as badly if the wax is thinned out. So, if anyone out there wants
> to share their secret of the wax/alumina hydrate mixture, I'd be thrilled!
>
> Dai Scott in Kelowna, B.C. where it's getting pretty nippy at night, but no
> snow yet.
> "I love deadlines....I especially like the whooshing sound they make as they
> go flying by." Anon.
paul wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dia,
>
> I just mix the powder in with the wax, I also cut the wax with water to
> make it more fluid.
> Silica is much cheaper than alumina and will do the same job!!
>
> - Paul
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dai Scott
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:19 AM
> Subject: Wax & alumina hydrate
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I've been reading about lots of people using a mixture of cold wax and
> alumina hydrate for waxing bottoms of pots, instead of using kiln wash on
> the shelves. Also, intrigued to read that it helps in separating
> well-fitting lids from pots after firing. Question: what ratio of a.h. to
> wax? Even a vague figure would be a good starting point. I already cut the
> wax with about 1/3 water before using it---I find that the brush doesn't
> "gum up" as badly if the wax is thinned out. So, if anyone out there wants
> to share their secret of the wax/alumina hydrate mixture, I'd be thrilled!
>
> Dai Scott in Kelowna, B.C. where it's getting pretty nippy at night, but no
> snow yet.
> "I love deadlines....I especially like the whooshing sound they make as they
> go flying by." Anon.
Ron Roy on fri 13 nov 98
Not so - at least when you are firing vitrified porcelain - alumina does
the job and silica does not. This goes for kiln wash as well - if you are
firing porcelain - don't use any silica - alumina and clay will give the
best result.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Dia,
>I just mix the powder in with the wax, I also cut the wax with water to
>make it more fluid.
>Silica is much cheaper than alumina and will do the same job!!
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
paul on wed 18 nov 98
Actually, silica does work just as well but don't add any clays with it. FYI
a bed of silica works great at cone 11 salt with porcelain and stoneware.
Granted that if you are firing to the point where silica becomes vitreous
then there is a problem, but that means that you are firing to 1410 *C and
cone 14 is 1390*C so good luck getting there. Silica by itself has a high
refractory value and will not bond to anything. Silica is also much cheaper
@ 10 cents a pound where alumina hydrate is 80 cents a pound, if you do alot
of work this is quite a difference. Sorry Ron but I know this one from
experience!
-Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Roy
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Friday, November 13, 1998 12:46 AM
Subject: Re: Wax & alumina hydrate
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Not so - at least when you are firing vitrified porcelain - alumina does
the job and silica does not. This goes for kiln wash as well - if you are
firing porcelain - don't use any silica - alumina and clay will give the
best result.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Dia,
>I just mix the powder in with the wax, I also cut the wax with water to
>make it more fluid.
>Silica is much cheaper than alumina and will do the same job!!
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Ron Roy on thu 19 nov 98
Hi Paul,
Well I speak from experience as well. I used to use 50/50 silica and kaolin
as a shelf wash - when I started making larger work - platters and large
branch bottles - I would find bits of the foot rings stuck to the shelf -
so I started making my wash out of clay and alumina This is the affinity of
sodium for silica at work. I only had to loose a few pots to figurer out it
does not matter how much more the alumina costs.
Anyway I have not lost a pot to that particular problem since I changed
over. By the way I just fired my 780th kiln - did you think I was making
this up?
I am sure everyone will draw their own conclusions depending on their
individual problems.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Actually, silica does work just as well but don't add any clays with it. FYI
>a bed of silica works great at cone 11 salt with porcelain and stoneware.
>Granted that if you are firing to the point where silica becomes vitreous
>then there is a problem, but that means that you are firing to 1410 *C and
>cone 14 is 1390*C so good luck getting there. Silica by itself has a high
>refractory value and will not bond to anything. Silica is also much cheaper
>@ 10 cents a pound where alumina hydrate is 80 cents a pound, if you do alot
>of work this is quite a difference. Sorry Ron but I know this one from
>experience!
>-Paul
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Not so - at least when you are firing vitrified porcelain - alumina does
>the job and silica does not. This goes for kiln wash as well - if you are
>firing porcelain - don't use any silica - alumina and clay will give the
>best result.
>
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>Dia,
>>I just mix the powder in with the wax, I also cut the wax with water to
>>make it more fluid.
>>Silica is much cheaper than alumina and will do the same job!!
>
>Ron Roy
>93 Pegasus Trail
>Scarborough, Ontario
>Canada M1G 3N8
>Tel: 416-439-2621
>Fax: 416-438-7849
>
>Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
paul on sat 21 nov 98
Dear Ron,
Read my post more closely - I said silica alone. I just unloaded another
salt kiln where I used silica (alone) in my wax to resist the salt from
sticking lids to pots, and powdered silica under flatware, no sticking and
no problems. The original post delt with additions to wax where the
materials were used solo, you should know that kaolin has a small amount of
soluble alkaline that will rise to the top surface and promote fluxing, no
wonder you have had problems with it sticking. Give me a break with the
firing count and try it on one pot!
-Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Roy
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: Wax & alumina hydrate
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hi Paul,
Well I speak from experience as well. I used to use 50/50 silica and kaolin
as a shelf wash - when I started making larger work - platters and large
branch bottles - I would find bits of the foot rings stuck to the shelf -
so I started making my wash out of clay and alumina This is the affinity of
sodium for silica at work. I only had to loose a few pots to figurer out it
does not matter how much more the alumina costs.
Anyway I have not lost a pot to that particular problem since I changed
over. By the way I just fired my 780th kiln - did you think I was making
this up?
I am sure everyone will draw their own conclusions depending on their
individual problems.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Actually, silica does work just as well but don't add any clays with it.
FYI
>a bed of silica works great at cone 11 salt with porcelain and stoneware.
>Granted that if you are firing to the point where silica becomes vitreous
>then there is a problem, but that means that you are firing to 1410 *C and
>cone 14 is 1390*C so good luck getting there. Silica by itself has a high
>refractory value and will not bond to anything. Silica is also much cheaper
>@ 10 cents a pound where alumina hydrate is 80 cents a pound, if you do
alot
>of work this is quite a difference. Sorry Ron but I know this one from
>experience!
>-Paul
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Not so - at least when you are firing vitrified porcelain - alumina does
>the job and silica does not. This goes for kiln wash as well - if you are
>firing porcelain - don't use any silica - alumina and clay will give the
>best result.
>
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>Dia,
>>I just mix the powder in with the wax, I also cut the wax with water to
>>make it more fluid.
>>Silica is much cheaper than alumina and will do the same job!!
>
>Ron Roy
>93 Pegasus Trail
>Scarborough, Ontario
>Canada M1G 3N8
>Tel: 416-439-2621
>Fax: 416-438-7849
>
>Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough, Ontario
Canada M1G 3N8
Tel: 416-439-2621
Fax: 416-438-7849
Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Darrell Gargus on sun 22 nov 98
Paul- Does the silica burn out with the wax in the on the rims for the
lids? I tried the alumina hydrate and hated it.
Becky
paul wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dear Ron,
>
> Read my post more closely - I said silica alone. I just unloaded another
> salt kiln where I used silica (alone) in my wax to resist the salt from
> sticking lids to pots, and powdered silica under flatware, no sticking and
> no problems. The original post delt with additions to wax where the
> materials were used solo, you should know that kaolin has a small amount of
> soluble alkaline that will rise to the top surface and promote fluxing, no
> wonder you have had problems with it sticking. Give me a break with the
> firing count and try it on one pot!
> -Paul
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Roy
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 5:20 PM
> Subject: Re: Wax & alumina hydrate
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi Paul,
>
> Well I speak from experience as well. I used to use 50/50 silica and kaolin
> as a shelf wash - when I started making larger work - platters and large
> branch bottles - I would find bits of the foot rings stuck to the shelf -
> so I started making my wash out of clay and alumina This is the affinity of
> sodium for silica at work. I only had to loose a few pots to figurer out it
> does not matter how much more the alumina costs.
>
> Anyway I have not lost a pot to that particular problem since I changed
> over. By the way I just fired my 780th kiln - did you think I was making
> this up?
>
> I am sure everyone will draw their own conclusions depending on their
> individual problems.
>
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Actually, silica does work just as well but don't add any clays with it.
> FYI
> >a bed of silica works great at cone 11 salt with porcelain and stoneware.
> >Granted that if you are firing to the point where silica becomes vitreous
> >then there is a problem, but that means that you are firing to 1410 *C and
> >cone 14 is 1390*C so good luck getting there. Silica by itself has a high
> >refractory value and will not bond to anything. Silica is also much cheaper
> >@ 10 cents a pound where alumina hydrate is 80 cents a pound, if you do
> alot
> >of work this is quite a difference. Sorry Ron but I know this one from
> >experience!
> >-Paul
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Not so - at least when you are firing vitrified porcelain - alumina does
> >the job and silica does not. This goes for kiln wash as well - if you are
> >firing porcelain - don't use any silica - alumina and clay will give the
> >best result.
> >
> >>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >>Dia,
> >>I just mix the powder in with the wax, I also cut the wax with water to
> >>make it more fluid.
> >>Silica is much cheaper than alumina and will do the same job!!
> >
> >Ron Roy
> >93 Pegasus Trail
> >Scarborough, Ontario
> >Canada M1G 3N8
> >Tel: 416-439-2621
> >Fax: 416-438-7849
> >
> >Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
>
> Ron Roy
> 93 Pegasus Trail
> Scarborough, Ontario
> Canada M1G 3N8
> Tel: 416-439-2621
> Fax: 416-438-7849
>
> Web page: http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
paul on mon 23 nov 98
Becky,
The silica does not burn out. It will remain a white powder that will have
to be scrubbed off after the firing. It acts much the same way that alumina
does just less expensive. Just use silica only do not mix it with kaolin,
OK.
regards- Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: Darrell Gargus
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Sunday, November 22, 1998 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: Wax & alumina hydrate
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Paul- Does the silica burn out with the wax in the on the rims for the
>lids? I tried the alumina hydrate and hated it.
>Becky
>
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