Joyce Lee on sun 11 oct 98
Lynn Rank wrote of creating a wood fired look by inserting pieces of
shellaced wood into an electric kiln. Has anyone tried this with a gas
kiln?????? I'm going to do so at my next firing, anyway, but would like
any background info and thoughts you might be willing to offer. I'm
ready to take Jack Troy's posted advice months ago to "quit talking
about it and just get off your duff and do it!" Rude. But he's right
and now I'm ready. (Don't post to defend Jack. I love Jack...feel so
lucky to have several of his very, very nice pots which I proudly
display to all who mosey into my space...but rude's rude.)
Joyce
In the Mojave starting fitness workouts at local center in order to
eventually defy those who say that a wood-fired kiln would just be "too
labor intensive" for me to handle...if I can stand on my head to load
that deep top-loading electric kiln for bisque seems to me.....
David Hendley on mon 12 oct 98
A good way to get a wood-fired look is to spray an ash
solution on your pots. something like 70% ash, and 30%
clear glaze works good.
Just "think like ashes in a wood kiln" and spray in a
downward direction. Make it so there will be variation in
application, a "hot" side and a "down wind" side.
I've been a wood-firing potter for years and have been
"fooled" by gas fired pots that really look wood fired
from using this technique.
There's also no reason you can't throw some sticks in your
gas kiln, if there's a suitable opening. There are some
professional potters who regularly do this. Some friends
of mine even built special openings in their kiln for this.
I see no reason why the wood should be shellaced, however.
Joyce, I think you could probably handle a small wood-
fired kiln, like the "fast fire" kiln in Fred Olsen's Kiln
book. As long as you have a back-up person for
occasional breaks, one person can fire it in a reasonable
amount of time.
The question is, is there any firewood "in the Mojave"?
Find your source of wood before you plan the kiln.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
At 08:44 PM 10/11/98 EDT, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Lynn Rank wrote of creating a wood fired look by inserting pieces of
>shellaced wood into an electric kiln. Has anyone tried this with a gas
>kiln?????? I'm going to do so at my next firing, anyway, but would like
>any background info and thoughts you might be willing to offer. I'm
>ready to take Jack Troy's posted advice months ago to "quit talking
>about it and just get off your duff and do it!" Rude. But he's right
>and now I'm ready. (Don't post to defend Jack. I love Jack...feel so
>lucky to have several of his very, very nice pots which I proudly
>display to all who mosey into my space...but rude's rude.)
>
>Joyce
>In the Mojave starting fitness workouts at local center in order to
>eventually defy those who say that a wood-fired kiln would just be "too
>labor intensive" for me to handle...if I can stand on my head to load
>that deep top-loading electric kiln for bisque seems to me.....
>
hal mc whinnie on tue 13 oct 98
i have used wood in both reduction and salt firings to cone 8-10, in fact
it is one of the best ways to get copper reds and celadons that I know
of.
insert wood at the last 10 or 15 minutes in an electric kiln, I also used
wood for reduction in raku instead of the post redduction methods of
garabage cans
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June Perry on tue 13 oct 98
Joyce:
You may want to look at the plans for a little cross draft Bourry Box wood
kiln in the back of the Steve Harris booklet. The booklet is about 3-5 dollars
and I think you can purchase it through either Pottery In Australia or New
Zealand Pottery.
The kiln is about 10 cubic feet with one bourry box. Firing a bourry box is
not as intensive as firing the Olsen kiln, I believe. My bourry box kiln
requires larger pieces of wood (about 6-7" at their thickest), and I load the
upper hob about every 15 minutes. The bourry box design also gives almost
total combustion so you don't get a lot of smoke from this kiln. I built my
kiln when I lived in Montecito, a suburb of Santa Barbara. Fortunately I
designed it to go on a heavy metal frame so when I moved I just took down the
chimney and fireboxes (which had their own removeable frames) and forklifted
it onto the moving truck.
The only thing is that you have to have your wood that goes in the upper hob,
cut pretty close to the size of the hob. In the early stages of the firing you
can use any size wood in the bottom of the firebox.
I believe you can fire that little crossdraft of Steve's in about 10 hours and
without breaking your back. It could possibly go faster if you want, if you
use insulating firebrick for most of the walls and arch.
If you are interested and can't track down the booklet, I can copy mine and
send it to you; or maybe I can get the time and figure out how to get this
new scanner of mine to work and send it to you via the computer.
Good luck!
June
Paul Bush on wed 14 oct 98
hal mc whinnie wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> i have used wood in both reduction and salt firings to cone 8-10, in fact
> it is one of the best ways to get copper reds and celadons that I know
> of.
>
> insert wood at the last 10 or 15 minutes in an electric kiln, I also used
> wood for reduction in raku instead of the post redduction methods of
> garabage cans
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
Hal,
I'm interested in how you use wood to reduce in raku firings, instead of
post-firing reduction in trash cans. Do you introduce wood into the
kiln itself? When? How much? Shavings, saw dust, kindling? Do you close
down the flue when you add the wood? Do you soak after adding wood; if
so, for how long? Does this method work for copper matte glazes as well
as glossy?
Thanks,
Paul Bush in rainy (what's new) Portland, OR
millie carpenter on wed 14 oct 98
hal
how much smoke does this cause? my kiln is in the basement with an
overhead vent system.
TIA
Millie in MD
>
> insert wood at the last 10 or 15 minutes in an electric kiln, I also used
> wood for reduction in raku instead of the post redduction methods of
> garabage cans
>
> ____________________________________
hal mc whinnie on thu 15 oct 98
i load the raku kiln before firing with sticks of wiood and when I near
the temperature I put sticks of wood in a opening at the top, I also load
salt into the kiln before I start so i have a combination of wood and
salt. the results are more sensitive and not as dramatic as standard raku
however you get some nioce low fire celadons and muted effects with
standard low fire glazes
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