amy parker on sun 8 feb 98
Please help before I screw up the rest of my tests & get turned off
to this!
I am starting to experiment with Mason Stains and porcelain clay. I have
mixed up several colors rated as suitable for porcelain body stains, and
have had a problem with one of them, so far. This is # 6464, Zirconium
Yellow. The colored clay inlay was sanded when dry (outside in a breeze
for safety) and there was no discernible bleeding. The bisque to cone 06
went well, with no bleeding. I decided to rinse the pot quickly to get rid of
accumulated dust, and there my problems began. (Hindsight - wipe with sponge
instead of rinsing!!!) At this point in my experimentation, I am using a
commercial clear zinc-free glaze that I brush on (cone 6 Amaco Sahara HF-9
zinc-free clear and Mayco c-105, separately applied on inside & outside of
the form as test), and before i fired the piece, both glazes have shown even
more bleeding than I saw in the raw bisque after I rinsed it.
???'s - Would damp sponging have prevented this?
- Is there something i should have put over the stained clay before
I applied glaze to prevent the bleeding which seemed to worsen?
- Are there some body stains that are just "bleeders"?
I am using Kickwheel's cone 10 grolleg porcelain body for both the form and
the inlay/stain mixture.
Have not gotten the test piece back yet, but am expecting to see the same
bleeding I saw in the bisque, amplified.
Also, any suggestions as to a truly "clear" glaze would be appreciated. Am
using c6 oxidation or c10 reduction at present, and both of the studio
glazes I am required to use are unsuitable - the 10 is grey and the 6 is
milky on dark colored (cobalt especially) stained clay bodies. Am hoping
one of the two comnmercial ones will be better. I will be buying a cone 10
electric kiln in a few weeks, so i would prefer a recipe that would work in
oxidation specifically, within this range.
amy parker Lithonia, GA
amyp@sd-software.com
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