Marty Cugelman & Gail Pasternack on thu 21 jan 99
My studio is a separate building attached to my house and is similar to a
garage in construction. I heat the studio only when I am working. Both of
my kilns always get a lot of rust around the top rim and handle. I hate it
when I get iron spots on some of the pieces on the top shelf. I take a wire
brush to the rust and try to clean it up. I try not to put important pieces
on the top shelf of the kiln. Does anyone have a solution to this problem
other than putting a blank shelf on the top layer of the kiln?
Gail Pasternack
Ballantrae. Ontario
Jan Parzybok on sat 23 jan 99
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
Both of my kilns always get a lot of rust around the top rim and handle.
>
>Gail Pasternack
>
>Ballantrae. Ontario
Describe your kiln, Gail Jan
Sam Wild on sun 24 jan 99
----------
> From: Marty Cugelman & Gail Pasternack
> To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
> Subject: Re: Exterior Kiln Rust
> Date: Thursday, January 21, 1999 1:12 PM
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>
I hate it
> when I get iron spots on some of the pieces on the top shelf.
> Gail Pasternack
I let kiln lid down with a bunched up towel held under the handle, then
pull that out carefully when the lid us almost closed.
Sam Wild
Sam Wild on tue 26 jan 99
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>
I hate it
> when I get iron spots on some of the pieces on the top shelf.
> Gail Pasternack
I let kiln lid down with a bunched up towel held under the handle, then
pull that out carefully when the lid us almost closed.
Sam Wild
amy parker on thu 28 jan 99
At 01:12 PM 1/21/99 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>
>My studio is a separate building attached to my house and is similar to a
>garage in construction. I heat the studio only when I am working. Both of
>my kilns always get a lot of rust around the top rim and handle. I hate it
>when I get iron spots on some of the pieces on the top shelf. I take a wire
>brush to the rust and try to clean it up. I try not to put important pieces
>on the top shelf of the kiln. Does anyone have a solution to this problem
>other than putting a blank shelf on the top layer of the kiln?
>
>Gail Pasternack
There is a product that you paint onto rusted metal that changes the rust
into a galvanized layer & stops further rust & flaking. I have bought it under
several names in the past from mail-order "junk" catalogs & all brands worked
equally well. It salvaged our van bumper & our support posts for the patio.
Check with automotively inclined friends - seems like this was originally
advertised for cars. You can even paint over it when you are done. Just
scrape off the flakes before you use it.
amy parker Lithonia, GA
amyp@sd-software.com
Richard Gralnik on sat 30 jan 99
I used a paint product on my kiln frame that somehow incorporates the rust,
protects from further rust, and best of all, it's rated to 800 degF. It's
an ugly
kind of rust color itself but apparently it does the job. I paid $35 for a
gallon
of the stuff and still have about a quart left. I'll try to remember to
get the
name and mfgr. info for you.
Richard
At 07:40 AM 1/28/99 -0500, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>At 01:12 PM 1/21/99 EST, you wrote:
>>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>>
>>
>>My studio is a separate building attached to my house and is similar to a
>>garage in construction. I heat the studio only when I am working. Both of
>>my kilns always get a lot of rust around the top rim and handle. I hate it
>>when I get iron spots on some of the pieces on the top shelf. I take a wire
>>brush to the rust and try to clean it up. I try not to put important pieces
>>on the top shelf of the kiln. Does anyone have a solution to this problem
>>other than putting a blank shelf on the top layer of the kiln?
>>
>>Gail Pasternack
>
>There is a product that you paint onto rusted metal that changes the rust
>into a galvanized layer & stops further rust & flaking. I have bought it
under
>several names in the past from mail-order "junk" catalogs & all brands worked
>equally well. It salvaged our van bumper & our support posts for the patio.
>Check with automotively inclined friends - seems like this was originally
>advertised for cars. You can even paint over it when you are done. Just
>scrape off the flakes before you use it.
>amy parker Lithonia, GA
>amyp@sd-software.com
>
Bobbi Bassett on sat 30 jan 99
Amy and Gail
I think it would be advantageous for you to check on a hi temp paint for metal
if you are going to paint the metal parts of the kiln. You can get hi temp
paint made for engine parts at automotive stores. There is also a hi temp
product made for barbecue grills, but I'm not sure what temp it goes to.
Bobbi in PA
May the gentle spirit of nature surround you and renew your soul.
Mike Gordon on mon 1 feb 99
Gail,
I used a product called EXTEND by Duro.Parent co. Loctite corp.Sdrape
off the dirt and loose rust with a wire brush, and paint it on, as it
turns black you can apply another coat in 20 min. to obtain a smooth
finish. I dries a red derusto red ( brick red) and can be painted over
with any anti rust paint that accepts high temps. Mike
Dennis Davis on mon 1 feb 99
Richard Gralnik wrote:
>
> ----------------------Original message----------------------------
> I used a paint product on my kiln frame that somehow incorporates the rust,
> protects from further rust, and best of all, it's rated to 800 degF. It's
> an ugly kind of rust color itself but apparently it does the job. I'll try >t
****
Not sure about the 800 degF but this sounds a lot like Corroseal which I
have used, but not on my kiln. It is described by the company as a Rust
Converter and Copolymer Metal Primer. I first bought it to use on my
rusty rural mailbox. And then touched up some rust spots on my car and
then found some other uses for it. It is widely used in the marine
industry. I am including some additional information in case others on
the list have a use for such a product.
"CorrosealTM eliminates the need to sandblast rust by converting rust on
steel from iron oxide, rust,to magnetite, Fe304, a black, inert
substance. At the same time, it primes the metal for a final paint coat.
The unique patented rust converter formula in CorrosealTM will convert
heavy rust in one coat. Very heavy rust, 1/8' thick or more will require
two coats. CorrosealTM is the best way to deal with rust because it is
less expensive, takes less time, and is much more environmentaly
friendly than sandblasting. It is used on ships, oil storage tanks,
buildings, motor vehicles, trailers, tools, wrought iron furniture,
etc. Wherever you see rust, you can use CorrosealTM. It serves as the
primer and bonds with oil based paint, epoxy, urethane and most other
top coats. CorrosealTM is non flammable, non toxic, non corrosive, and
biodegradable."
The Corroseal Web site contains a link to a list of distributors:
http://www.corroseal.com/
The company is located at:
Corroseal Inc.
545 Rainier Blvd. #15
Issaquah, WA 98027
Tel: (425) 837-0200
FAX: (425) 837-0300
Toll Free: 1-888-466-7878
Dennis in Stafford, VA
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