Melody Brownlee & Dale Robinson on thu 21 jan 99
Jan and clayart crew - I was surfing the kreuger pottery site last night
when I found this. I'm not sure that it is exactly what you may be looking
for, but you never know.
Cone 6 - Floating Blue Glaze (I'm assuming oxidation - it was not noted)
Neph.Sy. 47%
Gerstley B. 27%
Silica 20%
EPK 6%
Add: Rutile 4%
Red Iron Ox 2%
Cobalt Ox 1%
Bentonite 2%
Let me know how it turns out if you try it!
Perhaps someone out there could help me out and let me know if this would
be a food safe/food surface glaze. I'm no chemist (actually microbiologist
by day - kind of ironic really - sterile all day, muddy all night), and
amfor the most part self taught in the wiles of pottery. Actually - if
someone could tell me how to determine if a glaze if food safe overall, I
would be highly gratefull. I'm especially fond of a dark blue called
midnight blue (^6 ox) that I found in Pottery Making Illustrated some
months ago, but it has a high cobalt ox content. I also have a beautiful
hunter green glaze that is particularily high in chrome ox. Any advice
would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Snowy and cold in the foothills today, but the beauty of the frost makes
you forget
..
Melody
Sundre, Alberta
-----Original Message-----
From: Jan Adams [SMTP:mvpots@abts.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 1999 5:42 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject: Mottled matte blue
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Noticed that people are looking for the blues again, so I thougt I'd throw
in
this request. I'm looking for a matte blue, probably between ^6 and ^10.
I
know it fires in oxidation. It's a mottled, soft light to med. blue.
Areas of
lighter and darker blue seem to float at random....I've seen the glaze, and
tried to figure out what would make it. There is a lot of white in it, and
it
mostly seems to make up the background. Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
Ja
Bill Williams on sun 24 jan 99
The Floating Blue glaze you found is Chappell's Floating Blue. Except he
uses 1 t. of cmc in his formula. The formula is a tiny bit different, but
if it works the same that's great. Just don't have to mess with decimals
this way. He also suggests using bottled water instead of tap water. I
don't know how it would work with tap water, since he said not to do it, I
don't. He also says substitutions don't work very well with this glaze and
as near as I can tell, he is right about that, too. I have tried some minor
substitutions and they have all been failures. This glaze is very pretty
just as is, it hasn't failed me yet, if I follow the recipe and guidelines
Chappell suggests. Connie
-----Original Message-----
From: Melody Brownlee & Dale Robinson
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Friday, January 22, 1999 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: Mottled matte blue and a question too
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Jan and clayart crew - I was surfing the kreuger pottery site last night
>when I found this. I'm not sure that it is exactly what you may be looking
>for, but you never know.
>
>Cone 6 - Floating Blue Glaze (I'm assuming oxidation - it was not noted)
>
>Neph.Sy. 47%
>Gerstley B. 27%
>Silica 20%
>EPK 6%
>
>Add: Rutile 4%
> Red Iron Ox 2%
> Cobalt Ox 1%
> Bentonite 2%
>
>Let me know how it turns out if you try it!
>
>Perhaps someone out there could help me out and let me know if this would
>be a food safe/food surface glaze. I'm no chemist (actually microbiologist
>by day - kind of ironic really - sterile all day, muddy all night), and
>amfor the most part self taught in the wiles of pottery. Actually - if
>someone could tell me how to determine if a glaze if food safe overall, I
>would be highly gratefull. I'm especially fond of a dark blue called
>midnight blue (^6 ox) that I found in Pottery Making Illustrated some
>months ago, but it has a high cobalt ox content. I also have a beautiful
>hunter green glaze that is particularily high in chrome ox. Any advice
>would be greatly appreciated.
>Thanks!
>
>Snowy and cold in the foothills today, but the beauty of the frost makes
>you forget
>.
>Melody
>Sundre, Alberta
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jan Adams [SMTP:mvpots@abts.net]
>Sent: Thursday, January 21, 1999 5:42 AM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject: Mottled matte blue
>
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Noticed that people are looking for the blues again, so I thougt I'd throw
>in
>this request. I'm looking for a matte blue, probably between ^6 and ^10.
> I
>know it fires in oxidation. It's a mottled, soft light to med. blue.
> Areas of
>lighter and darker blue seem to float at random....I've seen the glaze, and
>tried to figure out what would make it. There is a lot of white in it, and
>it
>mostly seems to make up the background. Any suggestions appreciated.
> Thanks,
>Ja
>
Gregory D Lamont on mon 25 jan 99
Here, again, is a revised version of Chappell's Floating Blue glaze that
comes from Ron Roy. I have found that it works better than the original.
By reducing the amount of Gerstley borate by substituting Ferro Frit 3134,
the powderiness of the dry glaze and the tendency of the glaze to crawl has
virtually been eliminated. I found that the thickness of the application
and firing beyond cone 5 tend to increase the amount of green tint that
comes through. I use regular tap water to mix this glaze. I recommend
testing it for yourself. I fire in an electric kiln with a controller set
for a medium firing speed.
Roy's Floating Blue Rev. 1
-----------------------------
41 Nepheline syenite
17 Gerstley borate
13 Frit 3134
18 Flint
11 EPK
--------
100
2 Red iron oxide
1.5 Cobalt carbonate
4 Rutile
Regards,
At 11:57 PM 1/24/99 -0500, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>The Floating Blue glaze you found is Chappell's Floating Blue. Except he
>uses 1 t. of cmc in his formula. The formula is a tiny bit different, but
>if it works the same that's great. Just don't have to mess with decimals
>this way. He also suggests using bottled water instead of tap water. I
>don't know how it would work with tap water, since he said not to do it, I
>don't. He also says substitutions don't work very well with this glaze and
>as near as I can tell, he is right about that, too. I have tried some minor
>substitutions and they have all been failures. This glaze is very pretty
>just as is, it hasn't failed me yet, if I follow the recipe and guidelines
>Chappell suggests. Connie
(rest snipped for brevity)
Greg Lamont
gdlamont@iastate.edu
http://www.ourwebpage.net/greglamont/
Bill Williams on tue 26 jan 99
I use this glaze a lot so I am very interested in your version. Chappell
uses 1% Cobalt Oxide in his formula, I see that you use 1.5% Cobalt Carb.
Since I use Cobalt Carb instead of Cobalt Oxide. I thought you had to
double the cobalt Carb for it to look the same, so I use 2%. Is that more
than I need to use? You also said something about the green coming out in
your glaze. Does you glaze lean more toward green than blue? I have tried
several times to get the glaze to go toward more of a green but without
success. Connie Original Message-----
From: Gregory D Lamont
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Monday, January 25, 1999 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: Mottled matte blue and a question too
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Here, again, is a revised version of Chappell's Floating Blue glaze that
comes from Ron Roy. I have found that it works better than the original.
By reducing the amount of Gerstley borate by substituting Ferro Frit 3134,
the powderiness of the dry glaze and the tendency of the glaze to crawl has
virtually been eliminated. I found that the thickness of the application
and firing beyond cone 5 tend to increase the amount of green tint that
comes through. I use regular tap water to mix this glaze. I recommend
testing it for yourself. I fire in an electric kiln with a controller set
for a medium firing speed.
Roy's Floating Blue Rev. 1
-----------------------------
41 Nepheline syenite
17 Gerstley borate
13 Frit 3134
18 Flint
11 EPK
--------
100
2 Red iron oxide
1.5 Cobalt carbonate
4 Rutile
Regards,
At 11:57 PM 1/24/99 -0500, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>The Floating Blue glaze you found is Chappell's Floating Blue. Except he
>uses 1 t. of cmc in his formula. The formula is a tiny bit different, but
>if it works the same that's great. Just don't have to mess with decimals
>this way. He also suggests using bottled water instead of tap water. I
>don't know how it would work with tap water, since he said not to do it, I
>don't. He also says substitutions don't work very well with this glaze and
>as near as I can tell, he is right about that, too. I have tried some
minor
>substitutions and they have all been failures. This glaze is very pretty
>just as is, it hasn't failed me yet, if I follow the recipe and guidelines
>Chappell suggests. Connie
(rest snipped for brevity)
Greg Lamont
gdlamont@iastate.edu
http://www.ourwebpage.net/greglamont/
Andrew Lubow on tue 26 jan 99
Is this still cone 6 or was the temperature changed when it was
reformulated?
-----Original Message-----
From: Gregory D Lamont
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Date: Monday, January 25, 1999 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: Mottled matte blue and a question too
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Here, again, is a revised version of Chappell's Floating Blue glaze that
comes from Ron Roy. I have found that it works better than the original.
By reducing the amount of Gerstley borate by substituting Ferro Frit 3134,
the powderiness of the dry glaze and the tendency of the glaze to crawl has
virtually been eliminated. I found that the thickness of the application
and firing beyond cone 5 tend to increase the amount of green tint that
comes through. I use regular tap water to mix this glaze. I recommend
testing it for yourself. I fire in an electric kiln with a controller set
for a medium firing speed.
Roy's Floating Blue Rev. 1
-----------------------------
41 Nepheline syenite
17 Gerstley borate
13 Frit 3134
18 Flint
11 EPK
--------
100
2 Red iron oxide
1.5 Cobalt carbonate
4 Rutile
Regards,
At 11:57 PM 1/24/99 -0500, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>The Floating Blue glaze you found is Chappell's Floating Blue. Except he
>uses 1 t. of cmc in his formula. The formula is a tiny bit different, but
>if it works the same that's great. Just don't have to mess with decimals
>this way. He also suggests using bottled water instead of tap water. I
>don't know how it would work with tap water, since he said not to do it, I
>don't. He also says substitutions don't work very well with this glaze and
>as near as I can tell, he is right about that, too. I have tried some
minor
>substitutions and they have all been failures. This glaze is very pretty
>just as is, it hasn't failed me yet, if I follow the recipe and guidelines
>Chappell suggests. Connie
(rest snipped for brevity)
Greg Lamont
gdlamont@iastate.edu
http://www.ourwebpage.net/greglamont/
Olivia T Cavy on wed 27 jan 99
Connie,
I have used Ron Roy's Floating Blue Rev I glaze (as posted by Greg
Lamont and included at the end of this email) and love it on my ^6
porcelain. His version using 1.5% cobalt carb is VERY blue on white clay
fired to a low cone 6 (the ^6 witness cone was only at 2 o'clock). I also
used it on a tinted clay (green tint- left over from agateware) and it
didn't look as blue, and was closer to Chappell's book jacket photo. I
would recommend that you try it on your clay in your kiln before deciding
that you need to increase the cobalt. Considering the price of cobalt,
I'd vote for using as little as possible to get the look you want.
If you want a Floating Blue look closer to Chappell's book jacket, I
would think you might want to use less cobalt.
I added 1% bentonite to the glaze formulation and it stayed in suspension
beautifully. Since I didn't try it without the bentonite, it might have
stayed suspended well without the bentonite.
Bonnie
Bonnie D. Hellman
Pittsburgh, PA
work email: bdh@firstcaptl.com or oliviatcavy@juno.com
home email: mou10man@sgi.net
On Tue, 26 Jan 1999 10:14:01 EST Bill Williams writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
> I use this glaze a lot so I am very interested in your version.
>Chappell
>uses 1% Cobalt Oxide in his formula, I see that you use 1.5% Cobalt
>Carb.
>Since I use Cobalt Carb instead of Cobalt Oxide. I thought you had to
>double the cobalt Carb for it to look the same, so I use 2%. Is that
>more
>than I need to use? You also said something about the green coming
>out in
>your glaze. Does you glaze lean more toward green than blue? I have
>tried
>several times to get the glaze to go toward more of a green but
>without
>success. Connie Original Message-----
>From: Gregory D Lamont
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Date: Monday, January 25, 1999 7:47 PM
>Subject: Re: Mottled matte blue and a question too
>
>
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>
>
>Here, again, is a revised version of Chappell's Floating Blue glaze
>that
>comes from Ron Roy. I have found that it works better than the
>original.
>By reducing the amount of Gerstley borate by substituting Ferro Frit
>3134,
>the powderiness of the dry glaze and the tendency of the glaze to
>crawl has
>virtually been eliminated. I found that the thickness of the
>application
>and firing beyond cone 5 tend to increase the amount of green tint
>that
>comes through. I use regular tap water to mix this glaze. I
>recommend
>testing it for yourself. I fire in an electric kiln with a controller
>set
>for a medium firing speed.
>
>Roy's Floating Blue Rev. 1
>------------------------------
>
>41 Nepheline syenite
>17 Gerstley borate
>13 Frit 3134
>18 Flint
>11 EPK
>--------
>100
>
>2 Red iron oxide
>1.5 Cobalt carbonate
>4 Rutile
>
>Regards,
>
>At 11:57 PM 1/24/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>>The Floating Blue glaze you found is Chappell's Floating Blue.
>Except he
>>uses 1 t. of cmc in his formula. The formula is a tiny bit
>different, but
>>if it works the same that's great. Just don't have to mess with
>decimals
>>this way. He also suggests using bottled water instead of tap water.
> I
>>don't know how it would work with tap water, since he said not to do
>it, I
>>don't. He also says substitutions don't work very well with this
>glaze and
>>as near as I can tell, he is right about that, too. I have tried
>some
>minor
>>substitutions and they have all been failures. This glaze is very
>pretty
>>just as is, it hasn't failed me yet, if I follow the recipe and
>guidelines
>>Chappell suggests. Connie
>
>(rest snipped for brevity)
>
>Greg Lamont
>gdlamont@iastate.edu
>http://www.ourwebpage.net/greglamont/
>
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